Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Brakes

Choose a Year for your Ford F53 's Brakes

  • 2011
  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989
  • 1988

Shop By Related Disc Brake Pad Parts

Shop below for all Disc Brake Pad related parts for your Ford F53

Shop for Top Selling Genuine Ford F53 Brakes

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Ford F53 Replacement Brakes Parts

We also have Brakes parts for other Ford models, including Crown Victoria, E450 Econoline Super Duty, E450 Super Duty, Expedition, F350 Super Duty, F53, F650, Taurus, Windstar.

Sorry, no results were found.

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

brake lights keep coming on

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From britteasy on brake lights keep coming on

I have a 2001 Chevy Blazer and the brake lights keep coming on and I've replaced the brake pads and rotors front and rear and checked the brake fluid and i can be driving along and the brake lights will come on even when you're not applying the brakes any help would be appreciated
The brake pedal feels perfect with no play at all and the brakes are good

Response From jbfarms

are you talking about the brake lights at the rear of your vehicle or your brake warning light on the dash, if your brake warning light is coming on you may need to check your drum brakes in the rear, they could be worn and you not know it or if you have recently installed new brakes they may need bled some more.

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

Try replacing the brake pedal switch, its located behind the brake pedal arm.

brake fluid question

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From cfli1688c1 on brake fluid question

I was told that my brake fluid is dark, and needs changing. I was searching online and know that involves bleeding the brake. What if I just replace the brake fluid in the brake fluid reservoir, without bleeding the brakes? Would it extend the life of the brake fluid. I understand it will not completely replace the brake fluid. I was thinking that the new brake fluid will eventually get to the brake, together with the old fluid. This would dilute it into not so old fluid. Thanks.

Response From Hammer Time

No, it won't and that won't accomplish much of anything. It may already be too late for that system.
You need to use something to suck all the old fluid out, then refill the reservoir and bleed all 4 wheels until it flows clear at each wheel.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I use a real turkey baster to empty master, refill with new and bleed out till clear. If you do use a turkey baster mark it permanently as for brake fluid only and never use it for food anything again or anything but brake fluid - no oils,


85 Honda Accord, disappearing brake fluid

Showing 3 out of 25 Posts | Show 22 Hidden Posts
Question From soulshattered on 85 Honda Accord, disappearing brake fluid

I have a 1985 Honda Accord, it has been wonders for me. Only paid 650$ for it, only had to get 4 new tires for it. Had it for two years. One day the brakes failed completely. I had to E-brake it home. I replaced fluid, no problem. Few months later, same thing happened again. Realized there is a significant problem, take off front wheels. Caliper seal busted on passenger side. Replaced both calipers, both brake pads. Drums on the back were in OK condition (expensive special order part on these drums). I filled brake fluid reservoir, bled the brakes with some assistance from family. The brakes had build up some pressure, there were no bubbles coming out of the bleeder valves on the brake lines. We turned the car on, the brake reservoir drops to nothing, we lose ALL brake pressure, and there is a huge cloud of smoke around the car. I am no "genius", but I am assuming this is the brake fluid burning off in some way. I am not a complete genius with cars, but does the brake system link up with the exhaust at some point? Im thinking brake booster, or master cylinder.

Response From Discretesignals

You need to replace the master cylinder and the brake booster. The master is leaking into the brake booster. The engine is burning the brake fluid and getting it through the brake booster vacuum hose.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That has to be it. Check everywhere fluid goes on some schedule. Flex hoses, wheel cylinders etc.
What happens with master cylinders especially when older like this is when it travels down more than it might have in ages there is crust inside and the seals tear right up. It's actually good than it did that all at once and not in a panic stop on you,


Response From soulshattered

Ok thanks a bunch, I know exactly where the master cylinder is, the brake booster, however might take a little bit of digging to locate. I will probably be picking up the parts soon.

Once again, thanks a lot!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just looked -----

Booster: Available but special order.......
Master cylinder: Available and special order too. Get the complete one with reservoir and cap. Neither were very pricey for this!

Good luck with it,


Response From soulshattered

So ive got the master cylinder coming later, as well as the brake booster. Going under the hood I see bolts connecting the brake lines, I see the hose that runs from the engine. Is there any really elaborate steps to remove these two parts or is it simply bolts and the vacuum hose?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Should be mostly nuts and bolts. Rusted anything could be a pest. Flare nut wrenches for lines. Hope info comes with parts but pay attention to vacuum booster if adjustable there doesn't need to be some freeplay before it pushes on master cylinder. If not brakes would not return fluid well or at all after applying brakes. Not sure if adjustable or the spec. Check at brake pedal now with a finger how much is almost nothing before resistance as a clue.

Bench bleed master cylinder first off of car. Instructions and probably a kit to help should come with new one. If not say so but basically you put lines in outlets while body of master is held in place like a vise and push on end that goes to booster returning fluid to reservoir watching for it to be free of bubbles.

If no kit in the box you could/should just get some short pre-made lines that fit and make your own.

Think about the check valve at the booster to toss that too along with the vacuum hose, clamps if needed.

Bleeders at all wheels need to work when all installed and finish with bleeding whole system. If you run into any problems just ask and someone here can dig out some details. It's possible to have something hard to get at for fasteners but I don't know of any special tools just for this job.

Take your time and find out what or why if it isn't going well. This shouldn't be that tricky as things go, just age on things,


Response From soulshattered

the master cylinder is removed. I am not working on the brake booster. I have to disconnect the brake pedal from the booster. I have easy access to two screws, difficult to one screw, and one i cant even see.. Just trying to figure out how to disconnect brake pedal

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Here's some procedures that I found out there. AYOR for accuracy. Getting to fasteners you can't even see is a pest. There will be a way to get at it.


  1. If equipped with an air bag, disconnect the negative battery cable and properly disable the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), as detailed in Chassis Electrical .
  2. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the booster.
  3. Remove the master cylinder. Plug the brake lines immediately. Place the master cylinder in a clean, protected location out of the work area.
  4. Remove the brake pedal-to-booster link pin and the 4 nuts retaining the booster. The pushrod and nuts are located inside the vehicle under the instrument panel.
  5. Remove the booster assembly from the vehicle.
  6. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Tighten the 4 retaining bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
  7. Bleed the brake system.
  8. If equipped, enable the SRS system and connect the negative battery cable.

**************************** Just what I found out there, T

Response From soulshattered

4. Remove the brake pedal-to-booster link pin and the 4 nuts retaining the booster. The pushrod and nuts are located inside the vehicle under the instrument panel.

stuck here cant find pedal to booster link pin

Here is a possibly really stupid question, should the brake booster have brake fluid in it?

Response From chickenhouse

No, the booster holds vacuum to assist the braking action. The brake fluid that's in the booster now is what your engine was burning. That's why you are replacing it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Re: Link pin: Couldn't find anything exact for a pic of what and how. Something holds the pushrod to booster from pedal from just flying around. Hitch pin, something acting as a cotter pin. Whatever way would be made to not just rattle loose.

Just an assortment of things may not be anything like any but the idea...........

Gotta find it and it must be in good shape for re-use.............MANDATORY!


Response From soulshattered

I have it all i cant seem to get it out. My engine bay is rather small, I cant even get the tip of the brake booster out. there is a tip that sticks out that I cant clear outtof the brake pedal area, does it detach? (the part that attaches to the brake pedal)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That pic again. Is it the item to the right that has no clearance? Does the replacement have it in place same as old one? Smile but you are there and I'm guessing at what is in the way to jockey this thing out. What is in the way of pulling it straight forward then some angles now?

Where is the most problem, inside the car or outside under the hood. If engine itself is the stopper be sure if that's a last resort to tilt it or remove what is in the way. I'm at a loss without looking right at it as it is now. I'm not ready to say detach anthing that is on the replacement booster.

Note: I'm here a lot checking in but can't be watching all the time for question if you are waiting. Do think thru anything you may need to move out of the way such that you can put it all back properly. If brake lines are a problem from master those should have enough to flex out of the way but be sure when you hook those up they are not cross threaded into master before you tighten those up.

Keep looking at what and where the hold up is,


Response From soulshattered

So everything is good, brakes are all done. Bled everything good brake pressure no loss of fluid. Now I am having problems with an unusually high idle, we had to move a bracket behind the carb to wiggle in and out the brake boosters. I am looking for the idle adjustment, I believe we may have tripped it in our work. I cant seem to find a diagram or a picture detailing what this looks like

Response From chickenhouse

Is the vacuum hose going to the booster securly plugged in at both ends? Do you hear any hissing noises?

Response From soulshattered

Yes, its good. I am being led to think I need to adjust the idle.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

See if pic shows direct......

So far that showed for me? Your choke is about where it would be about 10 seconds after you start it up cold as in on fast idle. The rod that goes to the choke thermostat you should be able to open choke fully to test for that binding. You would then need to hold throttle up some (all this engine off) and that choke plate should be free to move.

This is a mind game now - what temp was the engine at when you took that picture #2 on you list of them back a couple posts? If that choke in the black housing top left in that pic can't shut the choke off via electric heater probably or possible exhaust heat (doubt that for 1985) it's going to race like it's cold. In that the problem just started with this job my bet is it is electrically heated to shut it off and the choke plate would stand up wide open and all would be just ducky.

Many that are electric heated if you just put key to run without starting engine would heat that up to the touch from cold and shut or at least feel that housing warm to hot to the touch.

Check wire and that housing metal bracket is in fact ground -- that hoop that holds it in place.

If all confused and I can do that well go ahead and start it with as much connected as possible and push the rod to open choke, flick throttle and it should be on the old warm idle. If that works but won't do that automatically that choke got messed up. Best guess for now. If not that hit back and let's see what else it could be? It has to be something touched while doing the booster job,


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Your post posted before I posted mine. If throttle cable doesn't allow carb to return to its base idle you will need to work on that. Careful of those things as if you get that wrong the other way when you put gas pedal to floor you are torquing on the carb and can bust it. You won't like the price of that!


Response From soulshattered

Well next time I get a day off ill work on this throttle cable. I shall post a new topic when I get to it, I look forward to hearing your advice! Thank you. (ill go ahead and get it ordered)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Keep it here for now as a problem from doing the booster job. Again you are there looking so have the advantage. My caution about a throttle cable is that the carb itself is NOT supposed to be the stop if you understand me. If you have it just right the gas pedal would be hard to the floor (engine off) right at the point the throttle is wide open at the carb.

One more: If that choke never shuts off you'll have lots of problems from running way too rich,


Response From soulshattered

Ok, so after having a my brother-in-law look at it, it appears that the throttle cable was partially messed up where it enters the engine bay (partly due to the massive bending and twisting required to move the master cylinder and brake booster into place). The idle has dropped significantly, still a little high. After burning off the brake fluid that had been previously dumped in the engine. Brakes are good, no fluid drop. Engine idles about 500-1000 higher than normal.

So here is the new and final question on the repair of this damn car.

Can you lower the throttle idle on the carb, as opposed to replacing the entire throttle cable? At this point its a matter of convenience, I DONT want to detach hoses and move this and move that.

This was definitely quite a job, and I am very very grateful for the help and advice yall have given me!

Thank you

Response From soulshattered


this is what im working with

Response From soulshattered Top Rated Answer

I found the pin, got it off.....disconnected the brake pedal. I have one bolt to get to, need a ratchet, which is en route.

I also noticed I had brake fluid leaking from the brake pedal onto my floor mat, just never noticed before. How was a fully functioning brake booster hold the fluid at bay and not into the brake booster itself?

Response From chickenhouse

Brake booster works by using engine vacuum assisting the master cylinder. When the booster fails as well as the master cylinder, that engine vacuum will allow the leaking brake fluid to enter it and be burned through the engine. Brake fluid inside the car justifies a bad master cylinder.

Brake pedal going down the floor when braking

Showing 4 out of 9 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Aldy on Brake pedal going down the floor when braking

Hi! this is also about my 1991 Honda Civic sedan 1.5L. The brake pedal goes down the floor when braking but this is not consistent. Sometimes the braking is okay and sometimes not. There is no leak anywhere in all 4 wheels & I checked the disc brakes and the rear drum brakes are still okay. The brake fluid level in the reservoir is full. I suspect that the the brake master assist is failing. How will I fix this. I'm a DIY guy. Please help. . . . . .

Response From Sidom

Those are classic symptoms of a master cylinder bypassing. The internal seals can't hold the pressure & since it's internal there is no fluid loss.

A power booster won't cause the pedal to go to the floor.. When they fail you lose you assist & the pedal is hard....

Response From Aldy

Hi Sidom, thanks again for your reply, so does this mean that I can just replace the master cylinder gaskets and my problem is solved or will it be easier to just change the whole master cylinder?

Response From Sidom

It would be better to change the whole master cylinder

Response From Hammer Time

Although Sidom is right that the master cylinder is usually the cause, I have had 2 vehicles in the past month with the same symptoms that BOTH of them turned out to be debri stuck in one of the valves of the ABS unit. The way i cured it was to slam on the brakes on a gravel road so the ABS activates and clears the debri. I had already changed the master on both of these cars and still had the same problem until flushing the ABS valves this way. Pressure bleeding did nothing for the problem.

Response From Aldy Top Rated Answer

Hi Hammer,Thanks for your reply, my car doesn't have ABS so I think Sidom is right.

Response From Hammer Time

I would say he's right also.

Response From Sidom

That's interesting Hammer.... I haven't run into that yet but I see where it can happen

Just a couple of quick questions on those....

Was the ABS light on? and Was it the same symptons as a bypassing master (sometimes a pedal, sometimes not) or was this like a total failure & just couldn't get the pedal back??

Response From Hammer Time

No ABS light. No brake light as long as the reservoir was full, although you could put the light on if you let the pedal drop enough.
It was EXACTLY the same as a bypassing master. One of the solenoids just wasn't closing all the way. As soon as I activated the ABS a couple times, the pedal got solid and no further problems. I had already replaced the master and flushed the system on both of them. No further bleeding was needed for either one also.
One was a GM and one was a Ford.

1992 s10 blazer 4.3 vortex engine brake light problem

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From john miller on 1992 s10 blazer 4.3 vortex engine brake light problem

i have 1992 s 10 master cylinder went bad was replaced system was bleed brakes fine but anti lock and brake parking brake light on dash stays on ?

Response From Hammer Time

Take a screwdriver handle and rap on the side of the master cylinder. Sometimes when you run the fluid real low, the float will stick at the bottom. It can also be the parking brake partially on, air still in the system or a problem with the rear wheel ABS system with a stored code.Try unplugging the big flat ABS module to eliminate that.

Response From john miller

i tried all above when bleeding i did see brake parking lite flicker then stayed on more air?

Response From Hammer Time

Make sure the master is full

Response From john miller Top Rated Answer

hi i just replaced caliber on other side reblead system master full but anti lock brake lite and parking brake'brake lite stays on dash brakes seem good ?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

John; Did the (I hope NEW) master cylinder come with the fluid level sensor? Is it plugged in?

Response From john miller

the master had no sensor on it?

Response From Hammer Time

As I stated in my first response, your truck likely has rear wheel ABS and when it stores a trouble code, it puts that light on. Unplugging the module will put it out.

Response From john miller

what plug is for module thanks unit on fender has three plugs on it ?

Response From Hammer Time

If it has it, there will be a flat module, probably mounted vertically, right near the master cylinder with one long plug.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

John; For some unknown reason, my parts illuminator is out to lunch, right now. Thinking back, I'm not so sure those had a level sensor? May have steered you wrong? '92 with ABS? Could you verify the production date? Should be on a sticker on the driver's door.

Response From john miller

hi i just replaced other side caliber bleeder froze and rebleed antibrake lite and p brake lite still stays on brakes fine master full ?