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1963 MG MGB Drum Brake Shoe SBS

P311-1531873    W0133-1625897  New

SBS Drum Brake Shoe
  • Rear
Brand: SBS
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
1963 - MG MGB
2003 Ford Ranger Drum Brake Shoe SBS

P311-23F6955    W0133-1623702  New

SBS Drum Brake Shoe
  • with 10" Rear Drums
  • NLA 1/14
  • Rear
Brand: SBS
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
2003 - Ford Ranger
1995 Mazda B4000 Drum Brake Shoe SBS

P311-23F6955    W0133-1623702  New

SBS Drum Brake Shoe
  • with 10" Brake Drums
  • NLA 1/14
  • Rear
Brand: SBS
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
1995 - Mazda B4000
2002 Mazda B4000 Drum Brake Shoe SBS

P311-23F6955    W0133-1623702  New

SBS Drum Brake Shoe
  • Production: -07/2002, with 10" Brake Drums
  • NLA 1/14
  • Rear
Brand: SBS
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
2002 - Mazda B4000

Latest Brake Shoe Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Installing rear brake shoes on a 2002 Wrangler

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From Guest on Installing rear brake shoes on a 2002 Wrangler

I installed new brake shoes on a 2002 Jeep Wrangler. The cable that runs between the top of the brakes shoes to the adjusting wheel at the bottom of the shoes is slighly loose. It does not have enough tension on it to make contact with the shelf adjusting wheel between the bottom of the shoes.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Be certain that the cable guide on the secondary shoe is in place and centered. The guide has a lip on the backside that 'fits' into the hole on the shoe. If the lip is damaged or broken off, it will allow the guide to drop off center, just a bit, causing the cable to be loose. I tried bringing up a picture, but Tom hasn't trained me well enough (LOL, Tom). Maybe, he'll see this post and show you a pic.

Response From Tom Greenleaf


I'm trying! Just look hard at this pic and see the cable routing.

BTW - cable goes towards rear of vehicle. L+R brakes are asymetrically (=Mirror image) opposite if that helps too??


Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Ya done good!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Does it look generally like this type?

I'll call that a typical Ford style for self adjusting mechanisms for drum brakes.

NOTE: Tell me first if not this style - don't know how to know other than what you described.

This style MUST look very much like that with both ends of star adjuster in the shoes properly, the loop end of cable properly on top anchor then around the channel barely show in this pic which is held there by the return spring and on to the pivot which contacts the star adjuster with the bottom spring at shown. If all in proper position you can even pull on the cable with it in this condition shown and watch the action of it adjusting the star which if you put in new shoes should start at fully back in - then adjust up to match shoes to drum.

That cable has a hook at the lever that's tricky to get in there. Cable may fall out of the channel at the return spring or have gone behind it making it essentially too long - can't stay that way of course. Some folks will pry up on the lever to make the hook reach into hole to connect and the pivot for the lever will bend and can't be reused if so. All this stuff is available at real parts stores as "adjusting hardware" and they may ask how long the cable is and for left or right side. This style been in use since the Harry S Truman administration and it's still popular for some last remaining rear drum brakes,


2008 impala parking brake emergency brake shoes

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From thedook22 on 2008 impala parking brake emergency brake shoes

i replaced rear brake pads took off rotor and emergency brake shoes are destroyed how do i take them off... and put on new.. any help at all i would appreciate
Matt , Iowa

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

Basically just some disassembly. The hub will have to be removed due to it being one piece, brk cable, abs connector, shoe actuator and related hardware. Here is an exploded view that may help.......


Locked Brakes

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on Locked Brakes

I have a 93' Ford mustang and it has been sitting for awhile. My brakes seemed to have locked up. What can i do to release them so i can move and\or sell the piece?

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

It is possible(if it has drum rear) the shoes are rusted to the drums. You might be able to drive it forward and backewards a little and free them up. Or jack it up and remove wheel and release the brake shoes through the adjuster hole. If it had rear disc, it is possible the parking brake shoes are holding the brakes. Good luck.

1998 Chrysler Cirrus rear brake problem!!

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From nards01 on 1998 Chrysler Cirrus rear brake problem!!

I replaced the rear brake shoes on my 1998 Chry. Cirrus. But, I can't get the new drums over the brake shoes. The manual says to adjust the self adjusters by using a screwdriver to move the quadrant which is notched. But, they have to be accessed through a hole in the back of the brake plate. I have so far found this to be impossible. Any suggestions - PLEASE??

No links

Response From murfsurf2u

I had the same issue, but I noticed that the brake cylinder has the two silver pistons which press the tops of the brake pads, and both sides of the cylinder had the piston extended, so the solution was to take off the shoes, put a C clamp over the brake cylinder and slowly tighten the pistons in, you might have to reverse the c clamp to ensure 1 side doesnt get pressed in too far into the rubber boots. in this way the drum will fit over the shoes easily. it also helps to compare to other rear wheel if u get confused about spring locations etc. good luck

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

This is a 5 year old thread.

Please don't post to anything older than a couple months.

Response From Sidom

That has a rachet style adjuster. Once the shoes are in place you can insert a little screwdriver between the gears and "help" the shoes together to make sure the adjuster is at it's lowest position. Also you want to make sure the park brk arms are all the way back, some times the cables can bind & keep the arms partially activated.

Lastly, you don't see it too often but on some of the cheaper shoes, the lining are just a little thicker that OE, so if you put on new drums & doesn't fit.........The quick fix is a cut on the drum or sand the shoes...........

Response From nards01

FYI I had my friend come over and he solved the problem without monkeying with the self adjusters (on this car they are a nightmare to reach). He brought a long clamp and we positioned it across the wheel hub onto the brake shoes with small wood blocks to prevent damage. I opened the master cylinder and he slowly tightened the clamp on the brake shoes. We waited a few minutes and tightened it more. He was then able, with use of a mallet, to tap the drum on. Needed to do this on both sides. Once we got the drums and wheels back on I backed it down the driveway. At first it made some rubbing noise. But once I drove it up our street and pumped the brakes many times (I also did it while in reverse) it adjusted and the noise ceased. It appears that the job is now successfully done !!!! Hope this helps someone else who encounters a similar problem. But, I'm not sure how many of these lousy Cirrus cars there out there anymore since they stopped making them in 1999 or 2000 I think. This car is not made for the long haul - trust me!!!!

Response From Sidom

Well sounds like you got it, good job.

Sounded like the adjusters were too far out and you got them retracted. They use those systems on more than just Cirrus's. If this was the 1st time you've down one, then I'm sure it was a PITA but it's a good system and actually adjusts up better than the star wheel type adjuster. With the star wheel if the screw got dirty or cable stretched they wouldn't adjust. With the ratchet adjuster as the shoe wears the adjuster ratchets out to compensate.........

After you do a few of them you'll like em and know just how to release the ratchet with a quick flick of a screwdriver or probe. It's one of those things you just have to do & is very hard to explain without being there..........

Replacing brake shoes can't find right size replacement?

Showing 4 out of 10 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From ShyWillow on Replacing brake shoes can't find right size replacement?

We bought an old RV and are fixing it up. One of the many things needing fixed was brakes..we went and bought new brake shoes for our 1972 doge B20 tradesman rv. The shoes that auto zone told us we needed turned out to be to long. The brake shoes that came off have a 12 x 3 pad on a 15 inch shoe, the ones sold to us have a 16 inch shoe. We have since looked on several web sites and ran into problems finding anything about our RV. We went to Napa they didn't know what to do. We went to a Dodge dealer ship to see if we could get new parts, according to them their is no such model ever made by dodge....

Info from inside the door frame
Make Dodge
Model B20
Date of MFG 02 72
Vehicle Type TRUCK

I have had many problems looking this thing up as it is a motor home. Everything I find online is info for a van and no site I have seen lists shoe size.

The door has Tradesman 200 on it... I can upload pics and such as needed

I am not real sure what to do at this point, hopefully someone here can help.

Can someone find a part number for replacement brake shoes?

Thank you for taking the time to read this.

Response From Double J

I just found a motorhome parts catalog listed on Ebay

It says the chassis is an M300
Maybe this catalog will help you

Raybestos site for M300 shows same part #

Click for Ebay catalog

Click for Ebay owners manual

Hope some of this helps

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Double J - our age is showing!
Drum brake shoes where I am are no longer "re-lined" which was common not all that long ago. You could or can find a "rebuilder" that will re-line YOUR metal shoes or buy products to DIY it never done by me. Friction material (asbestos) once was sold by the roll to rivet on new linings. Current problem I think will be finding tools to DIY that now or what was clearly brass rivets.

Suggestion: If you can't find whole redone shoes or new absolutely keep your old ones and would pay any core deposit to have them.

Forget Autozone or similar places. NAPA should have been able to handle this and blew you off IMO.
Expect a hunt but you can get yours done or others ready to go.

Other idea: Have you looked for model year 1973 instead? Try that as that exact model year Chrysler as a company began selling chassis to take over the RV and custom frame biz,


Response From ShyWillow Top Rated Answer

Autozone part #358 has the same problem the metal part of the shoe is one inch longer than the one that came off of the motor home.

Going to go look into the other bits now and thanks for the info. ^^

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Do your hunt. If all fails I'll plain call who can reline your own old ones if need be. I'll refrain from posting their phone # but is listed in biz, Automotive Brake Warehouse, Central St. Hudson, MA 01749.

They were suppliers to much of a huge area of New England mostly wholesale but do or did some custom stuff,

Response From ShyWillow

I think we worked out the problem. I brought the brake shoes inside and was comparing all the bolt patterns to the pictures and such of the brakes suggested here. None of them match up so I went to just looking at brake shoes on ebay for a dodge B20 1972.. and I found one that matched up in shape and wholes and even lil brass peg match. I was so happy until I seen it was an 11x 3 >.< but it got me to wondering the 12x 3 was an inch long. So I asked my dad who being a big rig mechanic for 40+years if maybe it was an 11x3. He hates all things to do with the internet.. He measured the shoe and told/showed me again it was a 12x3...

I ended up looking at the brake drums.. the inside diameter is 11 inch. So he looked at it closer and found stamped on it the size.. He thanked me. ^^

We are going tomorrow to Napa and hopefully getting the right shoe this time. ^^

Thanks everyone for your help and sorry for having the wrong info.. I don't know a whole lot about such things and when he said it was 12x3 I didn't have anything else to go off of.

I will let everyone know how it goes when we get it done. ^^

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK I think? Seems your measuring came into play somehow. When you say 11,12 and then "X3" I take that as for the drum inside diameter that would be marked with its max diameter like when machined/turned.
If you were measuring the amount/length of lining on the metal shoe that should be a standard for the drum. More lining always goes to the rear shoe. This is too new for dual wheel cylinders where each would be the same amount of lining.

Gotcha on the punch in peg that I long forgot about. Redone brakes take those out and give you new ones or all I recall.
Said before keep your old "core" shoes till this definitely works out exactly right. I know it's old but this stuff is still out there in use on something maybe lots newer than this?

Seems like you are all set,


Response From ShyWillow

When my dad measured he took a tape measure and bent it around the pad on the brake shoe to get 12 and across it is 3 and told me it's 12 x 3. I looked up several measurement methods for determining size of shoe, most show it as inside diameter of brake drum and depth. A few of them suggest on most brake drums is stamped the inside diameter. The brake shoes I found where everything matched was WAGNER-PAB336 witch are for a 1972 dodge B200 Van Sportsman. I don't know if that's the right ones or not.. It just got me to thinking the whole 12x3 might not be right so I had to ask and after his grumpy you don't know anything I have done this for longer than you have been alive and internet can't help you do anything speech. I wonted to double check his way of finding the size. None of the things I found showed doing it like he did. We aren't getting the shoes off of ebay as they are for a van/sportsman instead of a truck tradesman.. Though if Napa, auto-zone, or other such places can't help him this time with the 11x3 I might get them.

He has already told me he will be keeping the cores. Old parts get harder and harder to find. I am going to have him take the brake drum and shoes with him this time.

Oh this is also a front driver side we have taken apart.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? You need to measure the inside of the drum where shoes contact even with a ruler or tape measure - that's the drum size. Like this sample (not yours) done in mm....

With drum off place a new show inside and it should just about match up with the arc of shoe and inside of drum even with some wear look real close. If a drum was ONE inch larger it would be wildly obvious shoe(s) aren't correct.

Don't be measuring just the amount of lining on the shoes. I said rear will have more friction material than the front on purpose. Who decided how much for each isn't my call if that part is right for the vehicle. One inch now talking length I don't even bother for most just know that they are correct or not.

Samples pics of common drum brakes even this old...........
See the top shoe in this pic the length of lining this one riveted to the metal shoe is longer on the right side of that pic meaning those go to the rear of the vehicle + the ones shown left side go to the front.

You have to know some basics of this or you'll get in trouble. New hardware is always suggested - hold down springs and return springs. Left and right wheels are "asymmetrically" opposite meaning like your hands are a mirror image of each other.

This is primal and crude as brakes go but put on wrong will self destruct with broken springs or who knows if AFUed. You have to also know parking brake cable is free and returns/extends out fully or you are out of your league doing this job but can get parts.
I can't think of any wild special tools for any for this except common brake spring pliers and hold-down tool like a round ended screwdriver. Park cable can be a fight to get on arms + there's a tool for that or work with pliers carefully.

Can't let you mess this up even finding parts you have to know what I just said to measure drum. Shoes should match old ones also a reason to keep them to match up.

If in doubt doing this please get help it isn't that hard as things go but anything can be messed up and this is brakes so no room for mistakes!


Response From Double J

I looked up on Wagner and Raybestos websites
Had to look under 1972 D200 pickup

Found several 12x3 shoes

Wagner part # Z358 AR Front and Rears

Raybestos Part # 314 PG or 314 SG Front and Rears

Autozone and OReilly both showed a part # 358 for 12x3 shoes as well

Don't know if that's what you have or what they gave you already