Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Brake Shoe

Choose a Year for your Honda 's Brake Shoe

  • 2016
  • 2015
  • 2014
  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2011
  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1987
  • 1986
  • 1985
  • 1984
  • 1983
  • 1982
Show More Years

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Beck Arnley
    Beck Arnley
  • Bendix
    Bendix
  • Genuine
    Genuine
  • Monroe
    Monroe
  • SBS
    SBS
  • Wagner Brakes
    Wagner Brakes

Best Selling Genuine Honda Brake Shoes

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including SBS, Beck Arnley, Monroe, Wagner Brakes
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Honda Replacement Brake Shoe Parts

We stock Brake Shoe parts for most Honda models, including Accord, CRV, CRX, Civic, Civic del Sol, Fit, Insight, Odyssey, Passport, Prelude.

SBS
1998 Honda Civic Drum Brake Shoe SBS

P311-185F47E    New

Qty:
$44.90
SBS Drum Brake Shoe
Brand: SBS
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Honda Civic
Beck Arnley
Qty:
$24.24
Beck Arnley Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2007 - Honda Accord L 2354 - Rear
Beck Arnley
1999 Honda Odyssey Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Beck Arnley

P311-07CC554    New

Qty:
$31.76
Beck Arnley Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Honda Odyssey Rear
Beck Arnley
2014 Honda Civic Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Beck Arnley

P311-2114C1F    New

Qty:
$26.48
Beck Arnley Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Submodel
2014 - Honda Civic Rear HF
Beck Arnley
1990 Honda CRX Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Beck Arnley

P311-4D59955    New

Qty:
$23.42
Beck Arnley Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Submodel
1990 - Honda CRX Rear Base
Monroe
1998 Honda Passport Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Monroe

P311-214728E    New

Qty:
$19.91
Monroe Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • with 11.61 x 1.81 Brakes
  • Monroe Brakes Monroe Drum Brake Shoes
  • Product Attributes:
    • Max Year Covered: 2004
    • Min Year Covered: 1998
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Isuzu Rodeo
    • Most Popular Year: 1999
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 243459
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1998 - Honda Passport Rear
Beck Arnley
Qty:
$24.06
Beck Arnley Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1996 - Honda Passport L 2559 - Rear
Beck Arnley
2002 Honda Passport Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Beck Arnley

P311-353F8A3    New

Qty:
$29.77
Beck Arnley Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2002 - Honda Passport RWD Rear
Beck Arnley
2001 Honda Insight Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Beck Arnley

P311-3632F21    New

Qty:
$28.28
Beck Arnley Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Honda Insight Rear
Wagner Brakes
1990 Honda Accord Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Wagner Brakes

P311-5360225    New

Qty:
$13.79
Wagner Brakes Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • Bonded Brake Shoe
  • 8-21/32 x 1-3/8" Brake QuickStop
  • QuickStop
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1: Oe-matched Friction Material For Optimal Brake Performance
    • Feature 2: Precision Ground Maximizes Friction-to-drum Contact
    • Feature 3: Attached Levers Pins Included To Match Oe (on Specific Applications)
    • Feature 4: Comprehensive Coverage For Foreign And Domestic Nameplates
    • Feature 5: Install Wagner With Total Confidence
    • Friction Material Bonding Type: Bonded
    • Mounting Hardware Included: No
  • Wagner QuickStop brake shoes utilize professional-grade friction materials that mirror original equipment and utilize OE-required riveted or bonded configurations.
Brand: Wagner Brakes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1990 - Honda Accord Rear
Wagner Brakes
1999 Honda Odyssey Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Wagner Brakes

P311-43A632F    New

Qty:
$17.61
Wagner Brakes Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • Bonded Brake Shoe
  • 10 x 1-49/64" Brake QuickStop
  • QuickStop
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1: Oe-matched Friction Material For Optimal Brake Performance
    • Feature 2: Precision Ground Maximizes Friction-to-drum Contact
    • Feature 3: Attached Levers Pins Included To Match Oe (on Specific Applications)
    • Feature 4: Comprehensive Coverage For Foreign And Domestic Nameplates
    • Feature 5: Install Wagner With Total Confidence
    • Friction Material Bonding Type: Bonded
    • Mounting Hardware Included: No
  • Wagner QuickStop brake shoes utilize professional-grade friction materials that mirror original equipment and utilize OE-required riveted or bonded configurations.
Brand: Wagner Brakes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Honda Odyssey Rear
Wagner Brakes
1990 Honda Accord Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Wagner Brakes

P311-5360225    New

Qty:
$13.79
Wagner Brakes Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • Bonded Brake Shoe
  • 8-21/32 x 1-3/8" Brake
  • QuickStop
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1: Oe-matched Friction Material For Optimal Brake Performance
    • Feature 2: Precision Ground Maximizes Friction-to-drum Contact
    • Feature 3: Attached Levers Pins Included To Match Oe (on Specific Applications)
    • Feature 4: Comprehensive Coverage For Foreign And Domestic Nameplates
    • Feature 5: Install Wagner With Total Confidence
    • Friction Material Bonding Type: Bonded
    • Mounting Hardware Included: No
  • Wagner QuickStop brake shoes utilize professional-grade friction materials that mirror original equipment and utilize OE-required riveted or bonded configurations.
Brand: Wagner Brakes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1990 - Honda Accord Rear
Wagner Brakes
1999 Honda Odyssey Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Wagner Brakes

P311-43A632F    New

Qty:
$17.61
Wagner Brakes Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • Bonded Brake Shoe
  • 10 x 1-49/64" Brake
  • QuickStop
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1: Oe-matched Friction Material For Optimal Brake Performance
    • Feature 2: Precision Ground Maximizes Friction-to-drum Contact
    • Feature 3: Attached Levers Pins Included To Match Oe (on Specific Applications)
    • Feature 4: Comprehensive Coverage For Foreign And Domestic Nameplates
    • Feature 5: Install Wagner With Total Confidence
    • Friction Material Bonding Type: Bonded
    • Mounting Hardware Included: No
  • Wagner QuickStop brake shoes utilize professional-grade friction materials that mirror original equipment and utilize OE-required riveted or bonded configurations.
Brand: Wagner Brakes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Honda Odyssey Rear
Beck Arnley
1989 Honda Accord Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Beck Arnley

P311-403D7EF    New

Qty:
$25.88
Beck Arnley Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Submodel
1989 - Honda Accord Rear LX
Beck Arnley
1985 Honda Prelude Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Beck Arnley

P311-403D7EF    New

Qty:
$25.88
Beck Arnley Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • Canadian Models
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Submodel
1985 - Honda Prelude Rear Base

Latest Honda Repair and Brake Shoe Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2006 Honda Accord with vibrating brakes/front end

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From tom4416 on 2006 Honda Accord with vibrating brakes/front end

06 Accord Value Package sedan, front disk, rear drums, 2.4L, automatic. At about 65K miles, steering wheel would vibrate and you could feel a shudder when braking from speeds above 50mph. Changes pads and rotors (front, rears are shoes), problem persists. Checked runout on new rotors - none. Cleaned and lubed caliper slider pins, flushed and bled brake fluid, tires are new, alignment is fresh. Car doesn't pull when braking, just this shudder and vibration until the car slows below about 40mph, seems to get worse the hotter the brakes are. I've checked front end components, everything appears tight, no movement in the wheels like a bad bearing. Car now has 77K on it. It's been to the dealer twice, but they only go out and drive it on 35mph surface streets for five minutes and come back with no trouble found reports even though I've asked them to please take it out on the Interstate and, when safe, to brake fairly hard (or to ride with me and I'll demonstrate it) but they claim it should do it at all speeds if there is a problem.

I'm at a loss where to go next. I'm kind of down to thinking it might be a bad caliper that is binding up the piston but I've got no uneven pad wear and didn't on the old pads with 70K miles. Any help is appreciated and thanks so much for this great forum!

Response From Sidom

On cars with rear drums, if I suspect the vibration is coming from the rear, I'll take the car out, get it hot and when coming up to a stop carefully use the park brk only to stop. If I get a vibration, I know the drums are warped.. You are basically taking the frt out of the picture doing this.

Like HT says, it rare but it does happen...........

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I've never had much luck with that test. It seems the brake shoes just flex too much and you never feel the problem. I found if I remove the rear wheel, put the lugs back on the drum only and rotate it by hand, you will feel the high spots when it rotates.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Suggestion: Don't go nuts but in a safe place try hold the release for parking brake and use is as that is using only the rear brakes. If it does it then you know it's the rear,

T

Ps: If you are not comfortable trying that DON'T!

Response From tom4416

I'll try stopping it with the just the rear brakes today, I've got some empty rural roads where it won't happen in traffic. I would think if it was the rears, I would feel something in the pedal but maybe not. Does anyone still turn drums if that's what it turns out to be? Thanks for the quick replies.

Response From DanD

With you saying that the problem gets worse, the warmer the brakes get and the problem wasn’t resolved by replacing the rotors. I’m thinking you may have a front or rear hub that is warping when heated and in turn warping the rotor or drum. It may just be that a rotor or drum is warping on its own when heated but with the issue not changing after the fronts were replaced, not likely? Regardless of which, measuring run-out of the rotors or machining the rotors & drums will not do anything; they’re already (relatively speaking) cold by the time you get to them and will measure or machine fine.
You’ll have to determine whether its front or rear and the only way I can think of (due to the heat issue); is as Sidom & Tom has said.
Use some common sense and keep your thumb held down on the release and you’ll be fine doing this. You may need to pull the brake on fairly hard & quickly; just short of the rear’s locking; that’s to duplicate the pressures required; so be ready for it.
Yes sometimes road testing a problem vehicle; we have to act like stunt drivers; but you know the feel of your car and should be able to anticipate when a lock-up is going to occur?
By your description of the steering wheel vibrating; I think you’ll find the problem will be in the front; usually with a rear warp-age issue; you’ll feel the vibration in the seat of your paints; but with that being said there’s nothing written in stone, in this trade.
Why I’m thinking hub is because; I just went through this with a Focus that another shop gave up on; this is after they did a four wheel brake job and couldn’t get rid of the vibration. It took a lot of trial & error to find out it was the left front hub; twisting the brand new rotor. In this case the hub didn’t have excessive run-out; but the mating surface between the rotor and hub was cupped or puckered between two of the wheel studs. Measuring the run-out of the rotor with the wheel off; just the wheel nuts to hold the rotor, it measured fine. Put the wheel on, which has more mating surface against the rotor and hub and it twisted the rotor. Someone somewhere probably used an impact gun to tighten the wheels on and bent the hub?

Dan.

Response From tom4416

I tried stopping with the just the rear brakes, no vibration transmitted anywhere so I think that at least isolates it to the front system. Dan, you talked about measuring the runout on the hub and I haven't done that, just on the rotor mated to the hub with the lug nuts. I could see where heat would make the problem rear its ugly head. How did you finally isolate it to a particular wheel? Don't laugh, but I've ever thought about some way to mount a video camera aiming at the front wheels one at a time to "see" if I notice any movement while braking but doubt it is enough to see with the naked eye as the vibration only moves the steering wheel ~1/4 inch in either direction but very rapidly. I also don't get any pulsing in the brake pedal which I've felt before on cars with warped rotors. Off hand, no one has torqued the lug nuts except me and Costco (and I watched them carefully, refusing to allow them to bring the impact anywhere near the car when installing the new tires). I do all my own work on the car, rotate the tires myself and always torque with an accurate torque wrench to the factory specifications and in the proper order. Doesn't mean a hub just hasn't gone bad as things can fail.

Am I safe in assuming that if I can't feel any play when grabbing the wheel up on a lift and applying lots of lateral and vertical force that the bearings are okay? I would assume I'd hear some roaring while driving if it was in the bearings or some vibration all the time or at least while going around corners. The car is my wife's daily driver and so don't want her driving it if it's unsafe - annoying is fine, unsafe is not. The dealer also said they "inspected" the bearings although I know for a fact they didn't go down to the bearings because the nut has a retaining system that is marked from the factory and that mark has never been disturbed. Their inspection was probably very similar to mine. When I had the alignment done a couple of weeks ago, asked the technician (an old time and very reliable front end technician) to check all the suspension components and he pronounced everything as tight as new.

I'm reaching the limits of my technical capabilities and will probably have to try and find a local shop that can try and track it all down.

Response From DanD

Like I was saying; with just the wheel nuts on to hold the rotor, there was no excessive run-out on the rotor. But when we bolted the wheel to the hub and then measured run-out, we found it to be over the spec. At first thinking it was the wheel; we tried rotated it with another and had the same result. Replaced the hub and all was good.
With a ¼ inch deflection of the steering wheel; you would think this would be easy to find? You can’t pick out what side; usually with that much distortion you would hear a kind of warbling sound while this was happening?

Dan.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just to add about rotors even new: I've seen new super cheap Chinese rotors be no good. If poor metal they may warp when warm and test fine when cold. If poorly recycled metal and were the cheap rotors it's a maybe?? It's happened to me when a custom would request the cheapest way out,

T

Response From Hammer Time

90% of the time when that happens, it's cause by distorted front rotors. Brake drums rarely cause that problem but it is possible. I would have the read drums resurfaced and see what happens. If your a real aggressive driver, you may have only resolved half of the problem with the new rotors.

Requesting 2000 Civic VP repair advice

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Requesting 2000 Civic VP repair advice

Hello All, I am new here..am computer professional, but dont know much about autos. so i humbly request your advice on my 2000 honda civic VP ( 112k mileage)

During my oil change yesterday, my honda dealer found the found the following issues :

1) brakes front 4mm rotor 19, 8mm /rear .5mm (shoes)
2) R/R wheel cylinder leaking, tires seeping
3) exhaust leaks ( it passed smog test 1 month back though )
4) oil pan gasket leaks


Then they quoted me following rates to replace:
1) Replace rear wheel cylinders and rear shoes - 565.00
2) rear trailing arm bushing 560 + alignment 151.88
3) Exhaust leak diagn 150
4) Left rear strut 313
5) oil pan gasket 320

Now, I would like to know which one of them is absolute must to drive the safely in a order of priority. My wife is using this car mostly, and I dont want to have any safety related issue of the car. Also, the I dont want to spend $2500 on this old car too.

I would request your kind advice on what to do .
please help

Response From Double J

Absolutely a must...BRAKES......Leaking Wheel cylinders (leaks brake fluid).Vehicle is unsafe to drive in this condition.
Anything recommended for Brakes MUST be done.

Rear Trailing Arm bushing ..Depending on what the problem is,this could be a safety issue as well.
Verify what exactly is wrong with the bushing.

Strut....what is said to be faulty with this?

Tires seeping?Slow leaks?could lead to a safety /control issue with the vehicle .

Exhaust leak,Depends on what is leaking..Is the exhaust in poor condition where it could fall off and/or drop down and drag the ground.
Again,depends on what is exactly wrong with it.

Oil Leak from pan gasket.I would think this is some seepage.May be something that can be tolerated for awhile.Keep a constant check on the oil level.Have them verify if this is seepage or is it something that is leaking fast.If so,putting it off could lead to Major engine damage/failure.

Response From usedcarnewbie Top Rated Answer

First of all thanks Jim.

As per the written report given by dealer says, both rear arm bushing are cracked.

Left Rear Strut is leaking...

Oil pan gasket is wet...i dont think its very big leak..anyway, i need to check with them again..

they didnt clearly mentioned whats exhaust leak..one thing i noticed while doing smog testing a month ago, the NO level was high but below maximum acceptable level. dealer mentioned diagnosing the exhaust leak itself will cost me $150.

So i think this would be list in the order of priority:

1 . wheel cylinder and brake shoes
2. both rear arm bushings
3. left rear struts
4. oil pan gasket
5. exhaust



Absolutely a must...BRAKES......Leaking Wheel cylinders (leaks brake fluid).Vehicle is unsafe to drive in this condition.
Anything recommended for Brakes MUST be done.

Rear Trailing Arm bushing ..Depending on what the problem is,this could be a safety issue as well.
Verify what exactly is wrong with the bushing.

Strut....what is said to be faulty with this?

Tires seeping?Slow leaks?could lead to a safety /control issue with the vehicle .

Exhaust leak,Depends on what is leaking..Is the exhaust in poor condition where it could fall off and/or drop down and drag the ground.
Again,depends on what is exactly wrong with it.

Oil Leak from pan gasket.I would think this is some seepage.May be something that can be tolerated for awhile.Keep a constant check on the oil level.Have them verify if this is seepage or is it something that is leaking fast.If so,putting it off could lead to Major engine damage/failure.

Response From usedcarnewbie

Thank you . So I'll check with some independent repair shop tomorrow. So I have to replace wheel cylinder and break shoes first...

Response From autojoe

i would say the leaking wheel cylinders and brakes are most important.That sounds like a lot of money for these jobs.Maybe get an estimate from a independant shop.