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Best Selling Genuine Ford Brake Shoes

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2003 Ford Ranger Drum Brake Shoe SBS

P311-23F6955    New

SBS Drum Brake Shoe
  • with 10" Rear Drums
  • NLA 1/14
  • Rear
Brand: SBS
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
2003 - Ford Ranger
2010 Ford Transit Connect Drum Brake Shoe Motorcraft

P311-4429EFD    New

Motorcraft Drum Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
2010 - Ford Transit Connect
2001 Ford Escape Drum Brake Shoe PBR

P311-306CCA8    New

PBR Drum Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
2001 - Ford Escape
2008 Ford Focus Drum Brake Shoe Motorcraft

P311-1CE693B    New

Motorcraft Drum Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
2008 - Ford Focus
2009 Ford Escape Drum Brake Shoe Motorcraft

P311-395FCC2    New

Motorcraft Drum Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
2009 - Ford Escape

Latest Ford Repair and Brake Shoe Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Locked Brakes

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on Locked Brakes

I have a 93' Ford mustang and it has been sitting for awhile. My brakes seemed to have locked up. What can i do to release them so i can move and\or sell the piece?

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

It is possible(if it has drum rear) the shoes are rusted to the drums. You might be able to drive it forward and backewards a little and free them up. Or jack it up and remove wheel and release the brake shoes through the adjuster hole. If it had rear disc, it is possible the parking brake shoes are holding the brakes. Good luck.

rear brake shoes how to adjust?

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From ladagosta on rear brake shoes how to adjust?

Year of vehicle 98
Make of vehicle Ford
Model of vehicle Contour
Engine size 2.0

I am working on replacing the shoes I got the springs all back but then went to put the drum back on and I can not figure where to adjust the shoes in in order to clear the drums to button it up there is no star to retract them with Like there used to be .. I can not find anything to use in order to get them to move in so that I can get the drum back in place..please help...I am clueless as to how to get them to close up to clear the drum..
thank you

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

Here is a picture as to where the adjustment is. It might help you.

Response From ladagosta

WOW I wish I had posted on here the other day when i ran into the problem I found it today and here is the summary: the oblong slot where I am used to seeing the retracting star is not where it was found. It was found at the top of the backing plate, (obviously behind the brake adjustment lever, that was a total brain fart on my part) and it is round and slightly bigger the the diameter of a pencil. and completely blended in with the oil grim color of the backing plate..amazing I got one side together and found a problem getting the other side to retract enough still to get the drum over it. I will attempt to tackle that tomorrow and hopefully we will be back on the road again ..
thank you for taking the time and patience to help me SEE the Little rubber plug to adjust these shoes..

Removing Brake Drum

Showing 5 out of 9 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From kingjim9 on Removing Brake Drum

Hey guys, does anybody have any tips for backing off the brake shoes to take the brake drum off? The vehicle here is an '06 Ford Taurus SE 3.0L engine

I removed the rubber plug to get access to the star wheel, but I guess I'm having a little difficulty being able to turn it to back off the shoes.

Any tips will be appreciated!



Response From Hammer Time

Yes, the self adjuster is only designed to move in one direction. You'll have to slip a small screwdriver alongside your brake spoon to push the self adjuster off the star wheel so you can turn it.

Response From kingjim9 Top Rated Answer

do you have any tips for doing that? ha, I'm sure it's one of those things that once you have some experience you can do it pretty easy by feeling around but since they don't give you the most room to get your tools in there or to see what your doing for that matter it's a little tricky.

I got it to the point where i can almost get the whole thing off, it's just the last little bit gets caught up over the last part of the brake shoes.

Response From Sidom

Check your pm

Response From kingjim9

Hey guys, sorry it took so long getting back to you, I've been pretty busy this past week. I managed to get them off and replace the shoes. Man was it a PITA!!! Once I got one of them off i was able to see how it worked which did help but still between the strut, the brake line, and trying to fit two screwdrivers in the slot on the backing plate made it pretty challenging.

The drums did have a pretty big lip on the outside of it, I ended up getting them machined at the local shop to clean it off.

Thanks for all of your help, espically Sidom with sending me that video for that one tool!

Do you guys have any suggesstions for preventing this in the future? I do live in PA so it gets inspected annunally which the drums (should) be removed every time, but I was just wondering if theres something else I could do to help keep that lip off for future drum removal.

Thanks Again!,


Response From Sidom

Glad to hear you the those PITAs off..... I hate'em as well...

Like I mentioned before, it's just a design issue. The shoes wear into the drum.

While it's not a requirement to turn drums everytime shoes are installed, on these I would definitely recommend it because of the lip issue. If you had someone just slap shoes on it before without turning, then the old lip stays & it just gets worse.....

What you could do would be periodically check your brks, if you notice a lip forming and there is still room left you could have the drums turned again.
Me....I'm too cheap. Between having to buy a new drum too early due to turning or fighting the shoes to get the drum off when it's time for shoes......... I'll take the fight...... I have more time than money......

Response From kingjim9

yeah since it's a design issue i'll just leave it till the next time... fortunately brake shoes last longer than pads, so i'll just leave it to the guys at the inspection shop every year to get the drums on and off, and when it gets close to the pass / fail cutoff thickness again...let the battle begin again!! haha!

Again thanks for the help / advice!

Response From Hammer Time

The reason you had the problem is because you let it wear into the drums too far. Those drums should have been replaced, not turned if they had a lip like that.

Response From Sidom

If you can get one drum off then just check out the lever and practice on that side.

If not look thru the hole with a light, you'll see the lever sitting on the star wheel. It just pushes straight out to get off the wheel and turn the wheel in the opposite direction.... Before you start turn the wheel a few clicks to see which way it adjusts so you'll know the way to go to back it off.........

I have a long thin screwdriver that I bent, this way it stays out of the way of what ever you are using to turn the wheel with....

brakes sqeaking bad

Showing 4 out of 12 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From aarongates25 on brakes sqeaking bad

I have a 99 Ford Contour 4 cylinder and I had my back brakes replaced. Everytime I stopped it sqeaks very loud and it is very irritating. I have tried disc quiet and a bunch of other sprays nothing works. Does anybody know what I can use to get my brakes to be quiet? Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Did you replace the brakes? I'm guessing that the squeaking is from the new brakes and if so it could be that the pads just have an attitude or perhaps a slight crack that will sing out but brakes will work well. That's more of a problem with worn brakes or if rotors were not replaced. Machining rotors on most cars now is a waste of time as they are so thin to begin with they really can't take being any thinner. Also if machined they have to be cleaned or metal filings get imbedded - usually not a problem but can be.

They do make brake pads that are made to be silent using porcelain. They must meet the OEM specs or they shouldn't be used. My state outlaws selling brake parts not approved by the vehicle's maker. The cheaper stuff used to be better at some things but not allowed or sold here anymore,


Response From aarongates25

The brakes and the rotors on the front is fine. The brake shoes on the back are the ones that are making the noise. Is there something that I can put on them to quiet them down. Thanks for responding Tom

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The best chance of noise control without just replacing what's there now is putting stick on or spray on products to the back of the pads which requires taking them apart. I've had some luck taking them off and lightly sanding the friction surface with like 600 grit sand paper including rotors and cleaning them with brakeclean. Most that acted up once will do so again.

The whole brake hs to be in good condition. The caliper and the slides must be cleaned and lubed with rubber friendly brake lube. This is skipped over no doubt by many and causes problems. There are also anti-rattle clips and parts that are frequently reused which can be fine but new ones with the job makes sense and I don't think most shops do that.

You didn't say if you did this job yourself or not yet. If you did - how much did you do or do you know what a shop did?

I see the ads for brakes - any car $79.00 / axle!! How can anyone/place say that when there is such a wide variety of prices car by car for just pads. They certainly must have a disclaimer in fine print. One brake job I did the pads cost me $75 at dealer wholesale and nothing less expensive was available anywhere. It was a Jaguar.

Another area of common neglect is bleeding out old brake fluid for new as it does get old and dirty, also most folks just push back piston(s) to make room for new pads which just puts dirty fluid back thru any anti-lock hydraulic parts and back to the master cylinder and that should be avoided.

The only best way to know what's going on and to fix this is to take them apart and look at the pads which may show flaws, hot spots etc., and go from there,


Response From aarongates25

The back brake shoes are the problem!Not the pads on the front.My wife had them changed about 4 to 5 months ago and since then they have been very irritating.Is there anything I can put on them to quiet them down?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry, I figured you had disc brakes in the rear. Doesn't matter that much you still have to look at them. I don't know how Contour does the parking brake which may have something wrong in the replacement of the shoes. Same deal -- they must be looked at and if you want you can clean the friction surfaces with brakecleen but keep that away from rubber parts. I don't think that's it though as they are too new for a lot of dust to have built up and that can make noise but I would describe it as more of a groan than a squeek but possible.

Look for broken hardware while you take a look,


Response From aarongates25 Top Rated Answer

Can I take the cover off the drum part so I can check to see if any damage or cracks on the brake shoes?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes, you can remove the drum for inspection. There are a few ways the drum is held in place and I don't know off the top of my head which way it's done on that car without looking myself.

If you take the wheel off and look at the drum itself it may have phillips bolts, torx, allen or just a threaded hole(s) for removal. Few vehicles just have a pull off by hand drum or rotor anymore. Index the drum to a wheel stud to put it back on the same spot.

You can get in some trouble just doing that and if you are not ready with the tools or the concept I wouldn't do it at all. Why don't you just ask the place that replaced them to look at THEIR work? If I had done the work for you I would take a look while you wait and not charge you with this complaint. If you have a problem with the shop that did the work then that's a problem by itself. These may have to be redone and a good shop will make good on that.

There are cases where parts quality is the problem. The shop should know that and they will get replacement parts for free if there are defects and they can argue with their source about whos responsibility it is. If you go in and mess with them the shop is not going to want to take much responsibility for something you've messed with.

I say take it back to the place that did the work. They should be concerned about it and may change the brand(s) of parts they use if they get enough complaints. Everybody wins,


Response From aarongates25

ok I will do that!thanks for the info Tom!

Response From aarongates25

I guess I am going to have to have someone else take them off and lubicant them not taking it back to the people who I took it to. I don't think the mechanics turn the drums at all. I appreciate the advice Tom but I think I am going to have to deal with them until then.

Response From CrashedAgain

See this:
It worked for me.
The link is for a Focus by my guess is Contour rear brakes are pretty similar

Response From aarongates25

thanks for the idea!I will certainly give it a try!!!

ABS Brake Light

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on ABS Brake Light

I have a 2002 Ford Windstar with 89,000 miles on it and a week ago replaced the rear brake shoes.I am now having a problem with the ABS light coming on every once in a while. It seems to be stopping fine and I am not hearing any strange noises. I installed these with all new hardware and checked the drums for cracks and found none. Is there something else I needed to do or does anyone have any ideas what may cause this light to come on? Thank You Huffy47

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Huffy; is a pic of the speed sensor for the rear. Possible that it got damaged or is covered with debris and is not communicating with the ABS system. The computer will store a trouble code telling you which sensor (IF that's the problem) is having a problem. Which model Windstar? LX, SE, ect? Drum brakes in rear? Of course, check fluid level in master cylinder. Low fluid can turn on the light, as well.