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2007 Dodge Caliber Drum Brake Shoe Mopar

P311-22E3462    New

Mopar Drum Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
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Additional Fitment Information:
2007 - Dodge Caliber
1993 Dodge Colt Drum Brake Shoe PBR

P311-49D79D9    New

PBR Drum Brake Shoe
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
1993 - Dodge Colt

Latest Dodge Repair and Brake Shoe Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Replacing brake shoes can't find right size replacement?

Showing 9 out of 10 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From ShyWillow on Replacing brake shoes can't find right size replacement?

We bought an old RV and are fixing it up. One of the many things needing fixed was brakes..we went and bought new brake shoes for our 1972 doge B20 tradesman rv. The shoes that auto zone told us we needed turned out to be to long. The brake shoes that came off have a 12 x 3 pad on a 15 inch shoe, the ones sold to us have a 16 inch shoe. We have since looked on several web sites and ran into problems finding anything about our RV. We went to Napa they didn't know what to do. We went to a Dodge dealer ship to see if we could get new parts, according to them their is no such model ever made by dodge....

Info from inside the door frame
Make Dodge
Model B20
Date of MFG 02 72
Vehicle Type TRUCK

I have had many problems looking this thing up as it is a motor home. Everything I find online is info for a van and no site I have seen lists shoe size.

The door has Tradesman 200 on it... I can upload pics and such as needed

I am not real sure what to do at this point, hopefully someone here can help.

Can someone find a part number for replacement brake shoes?

Thank you for taking the time to read this.

Response From Double J

I just found a motorhome parts catalog listed on Ebay

It says the chassis is an M300
Maybe this catalog will help you

Raybestos site for M300 shows same part #

Click for Ebay catalog

Click for Ebay owners manual

Hope some of this helps

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Double J - our age is showing!
Drum brake shoes where I am are no longer "re-lined" which was common not all that long ago. You could or can find a "rebuilder" that will re-line YOUR metal shoes or buy products to DIY it never done by me. Friction material (asbestos) once was sold by the roll to rivet on new linings. Current problem I think will be finding tools to DIY that now or what was clearly brass rivets.

Suggestion: If you can't find whole redone shoes or new absolutely keep your old ones and would pay any core deposit to have them.

Forget Autozone or similar places. NAPA should have been able to handle this and blew you off IMO.
Expect a hunt but you can get yours done or others ready to go.

Other idea: Have you looked for model year 1973 instead? Try that as that exact model year Chrysler as a company began selling chassis to take over the RV and custom frame biz,


Response From ShyWillow

Autozone part #358 has the same problem the metal part of the shoe is one inch longer than the one that came off of the motor home.

Going to go look into the other bits now and thanks for the info. ^^

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Do your hunt. If all fails I'll plain call who can reline your own old ones if need be. I'll refrain from posting their phone # but is listed in biz, Automotive Brake Warehouse, Central St. Hudson, MA 01749.

They were suppliers to much of a huge area of New England mostly wholesale but do or did some custom stuff,

Response From ShyWillow

I think we worked out the problem. I brought the brake shoes inside and was comparing all the bolt patterns to the pictures and such of the brakes suggested here. None of them match up so I went to just looking at brake shoes on ebay for a dodge B20 1972.. and I found one that matched up in shape and wholes and even lil brass peg match. I was so happy until I seen it was an 11x 3 >.< but it got me to wondering the 12x 3 was an inch long. So I asked my dad who being a big rig mechanic for 40+years if maybe it was an 11x3. He hates all things to do with the internet.. He measured the shoe and told/showed me again it was a 12x3...

I ended up looking at the brake drums.. the inside diameter is 11 inch. So he looked at it closer and found stamped on it the size.. He thanked me. ^^

We are going tomorrow to Napa and hopefully getting the right shoe this time. ^^

Thanks everyone for your help and sorry for having the wrong info.. I don't know a whole lot about such things and when he said it was 12x3 I didn't have anything else to go off of.

I will let everyone know how it goes when we get it done. ^^

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK I think? Seems your measuring came into play somehow. When you say 11,12 and then "X3" I take that as for the drum inside diameter that would be marked with its max diameter like when machined/turned.
If you were measuring the amount/length of lining on the metal shoe that should be a standard for the drum. More lining always goes to the rear shoe. This is too new for dual wheel cylinders where each would be the same amount of lining.

Gotcha on the punch in peg that I long forgot about. Redone brakes take those out and give you new ones or all I recall.
Said before keep your old "core" shoes till this definitely works out exactly right. I know it's old but this stuff is still out there in use on something maybe lots newer than this?

Seems like you are all set,


Response From ShyWillow Top Rated Answer

When my dad measured he took a tape measure and bent it around the pad on the brake shoe to get 12 and across it is 3 and told me it's 12 x 3. I looked up several measurement methods for determining size of shoe, most show it as inside diameter of brake drum and depth. A few of them suggest on most brake drums is stamped the inside diameter. The brake shoes I found where everything matched was WAGNER-PAB336 witch are for a 1972 dodge B200 Van Sportsman. I don't know if that's the right ones or not.. It just got me to thinking the whole 12x3 might not be right so I had to ask and after his grumpy you don't know anything I have done this for longer than you have been alive and internet can't help you do anything speech. I wonted to double check his way of finding the size. None of the things I found showed doing it like he did. We aren't getting the shoes off of ebay as they are for a van/sportsman instead of a truck tradesman.. Though if Napa, auto-zone, or other such places can't help him this time with the 11x3 I might get them.

He has already told me he will be keeping the cores. Old parts get harder and harder to find. I am going to have him take the brake drum and shoes with him this time.

Oh this is also a front driver side we have taken apart.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? You need to measure the inside of the drum where shoes contact even with a ruler or tape measure - that's the drum size. Like this sample (not yours) done in mm....

With drum off place a new show inside and it should just about match up with the arc of shoe and inside of drum even with some wear look real close. If a drum was ONE inch larger it would be wildly obvious shoe(s) aren't correct.

Don't be measuring just the amount of lining on the shoes. I said rear will have more friction material than the front on purpose. Who decided how much for each isn't my call if that part is right for the vehicle. One inch now talking length I don't even bother for most just know that they are correct or not.

Samples pics of common drum brakes even this old...........
See the top shoe in this pic the length of lining this one riveted to the metal shoe is longer on the right side of that pic meaning those go to the rear of the vehicle + the ones shown left side go to the front.

You have to know some basics of this or you'll get in trouble. New hardware is always suggested - hold down springs and return springs. Left and right wheels are "asymmetrically" opposite meaning like your hands are a mirror image of each other.

This is primal and crude as brakes go but put on wrong will self destruct with broken springs or who knows if AFUed. You have to also know parking brake cable is free and returns/extends out fully or you are out of your league doing this job but can get parts.
I can't think of any wild special tools for any for this except common brake spring pliers and hold-down tool like a round ended screwdriver. Park cable can be a fight to get on arms + there's a tool for that or work with pliers carefully.

Can't let you mess this up even finding parts you have to know what I just said to measure drum. Shoes should match old ones also a reason to keep them to match up.

If in doubt doing this please get help it isn't that hard as things go but anything can be messed up and this is brakes so no room for mistakes!


Response From Double J

I looked up on Wagner and Raybestos websites
Had to look under 1972 D200 pickup

Found several 12x3 shoes

Wagner part # Z358 AR Front and Rears

Raybestos Part # 314 PG or 314 SG Front and Rears

Autozone and OReilly both showed a part # 358 for 12x3 shoes as well

Don't know if that's what you have or what they gave you already

Leaf spring awful squeak

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From comnavguy on Leaf spring awful squeak

I just did rear brake shoes on an 89 Dodge Caravan -awful awful job. The brake job went well and all of that is OK.

I jacked the vehicle on the leaf spring on both sides, but on the driver's side there is a horrible squeak with just the slightest movement of the van.

A can of WD 40 and it's still bad.

ANY suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Response From Hammer Time

Have you determined exactly what spot is causing the problems?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

??!! To add:

">I jacked the vehicle on the leaf spring on both sides, but on the driver's side there is a horrible squeak with just the slightest movement of the van.<"


Is this to say you used the spring itself to jack up the vehicle? NOT good if so. Find and use hoisting/jacking spots for each vehicle or damage could result. Did you break a shackle - something else?

Most OE leaf type springs come with nylon to keep them quiet. Light years ago we used to routinly oil them and I still do but it really isn't necessary like back when,


Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

>>Light years ago we used to routinly oil them<< Some, even had grease fittings!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

NSDT = NO SH*T Dick TRACY. Holy crap Loren! Are we the last remaining archives for once was? Bacon fat for grease and and all that good stuff! Fisher was a wheel right company before fueled engines! Was a wagon wheel company the was bought by GM way back. They continued making wooden wheels thinking motor cars would be a passing fad!

Feel old as as dirt sometimes! Laugh and you are supposed to,