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Mopar
2004 Chrysler PT Cruiser Drum Brake Shoe Mopar

P311-53D5066    W0133-1805578  New

Qty:
$91.40
Mopar Drum Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with 228 mm Rear Drum Diamater (228 x 42 Shoes)
Brand: Mopar
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Vehicle
2004 - Chrysler PT Cruiser
Mopar
2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser Drum Brake Shoe Mopar

P311-53D5066    W0133-1805578  New

Qty:
$91.40
Mopar Drum Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Rear Drum Brakes
Brand: Mopar
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Vehicle
2005 - Chrysler PT Cruiser
Mopar
2009 Chrysler PT Cruiser Drum Brake Shoe Mopar

P311-53D5066    W0133-1805578  New

Qty:
$91.40
Mopar Drum Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
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Vehicle
2009 - Chrysler PT Cruiser
Mopar
2007 Chrysler Sebring Drum Brake Shoe Mopar

P311-22E3462    W0133-1879092  New

Qty:
$91.40
Mopar Drum Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
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Vehicle
2007 - Chrysler Sebring
Centric
2003 Chrysler Town & Country Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Centric

P311-21727B0    111.07140  New

Qty:
$19.94
Centric Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • Premium Brake Shoes-Preferred
Brand: Centric
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Vehicle Drive Type Position
2003 - Chrysler Town & Country FWD Rear
Centric
2007 Chrysler Sebring Drum Brake Shoe - Rear 4 Cyl 2.4L Centric

P311-2485268    111.09190  New

Qty:
$22.12
Centric Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • Premium Brake Shoes-Preferred
Brand: Centric
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Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2007 - Chrysler Sebring L 2360 144 Rear
Centric
1991 Chrysler Town & Country Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Centric

P311-58DE791    111.05380  New

Qty:
$20.78
Centric Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • Premium Brake Shoes-Preferred
Brand: Centric
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Vehicle Position
1991 - Chrysler Town & Country Rear
Centric
1990 Chrysler Daytona Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Centric

P311-24B3384    111.05190  New

Qty:
$15.63
Centric Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • Premium Brake Shoes-Preferred
Brand: Centric
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Vehicle Position
1990 - Chrysler Daytona Rear
Centric
2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Centric

P311-396DFFB    111.08100  New

Qty:
$20.44
Centric Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • Premium Brake Shoes-Preferred
Brand: Centric
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Vehicle Aspiration BrakeABS Position
2005 - Chrysler PT Cruiser Naturally Aspirated 2-Wheel ABS Rear
Centric
2004 Chrysler PT Cruiser Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Centric

P311-396DFFB    111.08100  New

Qty:
$20.44
Centric Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • with Turbocharged Cast in Front Caliper
  • Premium Brake Shoes-Preferred
Brand: Centric
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Vehicle Position
2004 - Chrysler PT Cruiser Rear
Centric
2004 Chrysler PT Cruiser Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Centric

P311-396DFFB    111.08100  New

Qty:
$20.44
Centric Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • w/o Turbocharged Cast in Front Caliper
  • Premium Brake Shoes-Preferred
Brand: Centric
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Vehicle Position
2004 - Chrysler PT Cruiser Rear
Centric
1997 Chrysler Cirrus Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Centric

P311-4D7BAA7    111.07161  New

Qty:
$18.67
Centric Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • Premium Brake Shoes-Preferred
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Chrysler Cirrus Rear
Centric
2002 Chrysler Sebring Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Centric

P311-3CEE603    111.06580  New

Qty:
$16.68
Centric Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • Premium Brake Shoes-Preferred
Brand: Centric
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Vehicle Body Position
2002 - Chrysler Sebring Coupe Rear
Centric
1991 Chrysler Daytona Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Centric

P311-12E7E3C    111.05200  New

Qty:
$17.12
Centric Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • Premium Brake Shoes-Preferred
Brand: Centric
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Vehicle Position
1991 - Chrysler Daytona Rear
Centric
1984 Chrysler Laser Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Centric

P311-12E7E3C    111.05200  New

Qty:
$17.12
Centric Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • ATE Front Calipers
  • Premium Brake Shoes-Preferred
Brand: Centric
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Vehicle Position
1984 - Chrysler Laser Rear
Centric
1984 Chrysler Laser Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Centric

P311-12E7E3C    111.05200  New

Qty:
$17.12
Centric Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • KH Calipers
  • Premium Brake Shoes-Preferred
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1984 - Chrysler Laser Rear
Centric
2006 Chrysler Sebring Drum Brake Shoe - Rear 4 Cyl 2.4L Centric

P311-5D06C99    111.08001  New

Qty:
$21.28
Centric Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • Premium Brake Shoes-Preferred
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2006 - Chrysler Sebring L 2429 148 Rear
Centric
1979 Chrysler Cordoba Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Centric

P311-5261C43    111.04460  New

Qty:
$21.83
Centric Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • 11 Rear Drum
  • Premium Brake Shoes-Preferred
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1979 - Chrysler Cordoba Rear
Centric
1967 Chrysler New Yorker Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Centric

P311-5261C43    111.04460  New

Qty:
$21.83
Centric Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • 2 3/4 Front Shoe
  • Premium Brake Shoes-Preferred
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1967 - Chrysler New Yorker Rear
Centric
1992 Chrysler Town & Country Drum Brake Shoe - Rear Centric

P311-5261C43    111.04460  New

Qty:
$21.83
Centric Drum Brake Shoe  Rear
  • Premium Brake Shoes-Preferred
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1992 - Chrysler Town & Country AWD Rear

Latest Chrysler Repair and Brake Shoe Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1998 Chrysler Cirrus rear brake problem!!

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From nards01 on 1998 Chrysler Cirrus rear brake problem!!

I replaced the rear brake shoes on my 1998 Chry. Cirrus. But, I can't get the new drums over the brake shoes. The manual says to adjust the self adjusters by using a screwdriver to move the quadrant which is notched. But, they have to be accessed through a hole in the back of the brake plate. I have so far found this to be impossible. Any suggestions - PLEASE??

No links

Response From murfsurf2u

I had the same issue, but I noticed that the brake cylinder has the two silver pistons which press the tops of the brake pads, and both sides of the cylinder had the piston extended, so the solution was to take off the shoes, put a C clamp over the brake cylinder and slowly tighten the pistons in, you might have to reverse the c clamp to ensure 1 side doesnt get pressed in too far into the rubber boots. in this way the drum will fit over the shoes easily. it also helps to compare to other rear wheel if u get confused about spring locations etc. good luck

Response From Hammer Time

This is a 5 year old thread.

Please don't post to anything older than a couple months.

Response From Sidom

That has a rachet style adjuster. Once the shoes are in place you can insert a little screwdriver between the gears and "help" the shoes together to make sure the adjuster is at it's lowest position. Also you want to make sure the park brk arms are all the way back, some times the cables can bind & keep the arms partially activated.

Lastly, you don't see it too often but on some of the cheaper shoes, the lining are just a little thicker that OE, so if you put on new drums & shoes.......it doesn't fit.........The quick fix is a cut on the drum or sand the shoes...........

Response From nards01

FYI I had my friend come over and he solved the problem without monkeying with the self adjusters (on this car they are a nightmare to reach). He brought a long clamp and we positioned it across the wheel hub onto the brake shoes with small wood blocks to prevent damage. I opened the master cylinder and he slowly tightened the clamp on the brake shoes. We waited a few minutes and tightened it more. He was then able, with use of a mallet, to tap the drum on. Needed to do this on both sides. Once we got the drums and wheels back on I backed it down the driveway. At first it made some rubbing noise. But once I drove it up our street and pumped the brakes many times (I also did it while in reverse) it adjusted and the noise ceased. It appears that the job is now successfully done !!!! Hope this helps someone else who encounters a similar problem. But, I'm not sure how many of these lousy Cirrus cars there out there anymore since they stopped making them in 1999 or 2000 I think. This car is not made for the long haul - trust me!!!!

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

Well sounds like you got it, good job.

Sounded like the adjusters were too far out and you got them retracted. They use those systems on more than just Cirrus's. If this was the 1st time you've down one, then I'm sure it was a PITA but it's a good system and actually adjusts up better than the star wheel type adjuster. With the star wheel if the screw got dirty or cable stretched they wouldn't adjust. With the ratchet adjuster as the shoe wears the adjuster ratchets out to compensate.........

After you do a few of them you'll like em and know just how to release the ratchet with a quick flick of a screwdriver or probe. It's one of those things you just have to do & is very hard to explain without being there..........

Replacing brake shoes can't find right size replacement?

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From ShyWillow on Replacing brake shoes can't find right size replacement?

We bought an old RV and are fixing it up. One of the many things needing fixed was brakes..we went and bought new brake shoes for our 1972 doge B20 tradesman rv. The shoes that auto zone told us we needed turned out to be to long. The brake shoes that came off have a 12 x 3 pad on a 15 inch shoe, the ones sold to us have a 16 inch shoe. We have since looked on several web sites and ran into problems finding anything about our RV. We went to Napa they didn't know what to do. We went to a Dodge dealer ship to see if we could get new parts, according to them their is no such model ever made by dodge....

Info from inside the door frame
Make Dodge
Model B20
Date of MFG 02 72
Vehicle Type TRUCK

I have had many problems looking this thing up as it is a motor home. Everything I find online is info for a van and no site I have seen lists shoe size.

The door has Tradesman 200 on it... I can upload pics and such as needed

I am not real sure what to do at this point, hopefully someone here can help.

Can someone find a part number for replacement brake shoes?



Thank you for taking the time to read this.

Response From Double J

I just found a motorhome parts catalog listed on Ebay

It says the chassis is an M300
Maybe this catalog will help you

Raybestos site for M300 shows same part #

Click for Ebay catalog

Click for Ebay owners manual

Hope some of this helps

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Double J - our age is showing!
Drum brake shoes where I am are no longer "re-lined" which was common not all that long ago. You could or can find a "rebuilder" that will re-line YOUR metal shoes or buy products to DIY it never done by me. Friction material (asbestos) once was sold by the roll to rivet on new linings. Current problem I think will be finding tools to DIY that now or what was clearly brass rivets.


Suggestion: If you can't find whole redone shoes or new absolutely keep your old ones and would pay any core deposit to have them.


Forget Autozone or similar places. NAPA should have been able to handle this and blew you off IMO.
Expect a hunt but you can get yours done or others ready to go.


Other idea: Have you looked for model year 1973 instead? Try that as that exact model year Chrysler as a company began selling chassis to take over the RV and custom frame biz,


T

Response From ShyWillow

Autozone part #358 has the same problem the metal part of the shoe is one inch longer than the one that came off of the motor home.

Going to go look into the other bits now and thanks for the info. ^^

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Do your hunt. If all fails I'll plain call who can reline your own old ones if need be. I'll refrain from posting their phone # but is listed in biz, Automotive Brake Warehouse, Central St. Hudson, MA 01749.


They were suppliers to much of a huge area of New England mostly wholesale but do or did some custom stuff,
T

Response From ShyWillow

I think we worked out the problem. I brought the brake shoes inside and was comparing all the bolt patterns to the pictures and such of the brakes suggested here. None of them match up so I went to just looking at brake shoes on ebay for a dodge B20 1972.. and I found one that matched up in shape and wholes and even lil brass peg match. I was so happy until I seen it was an 11x 3 >.< but it got me to wondering the 12x 3 was an inch long. So I asked my dad who being a big rig mechanic for 40+years if maybe it was an 11x3. He hates all things to do with the internet.. He measured the shoe and told/showed me again it was a 12x3...

I ended up looking at the brake drums.. the inside diameter is 11 inch. So he looked at it closer and found stamped on it the size.. He thanked me. ^^

We are going tomorrow to Napa and hopefully getting the right shoe this time. ^^

Thanks everyone for your help and sorry for having the wrong info.. I don't know a whole lot about such things and when he said it was 12x3 I didn't have anything else to go off of.

I will let everyone know how it goes when we get it done. ^^

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK I think? Seems your measuring came into play somehow. When you say 11,12 and then "X3" I take that as for the drum inside diameter that would be marked with its max diameter like when machined/turned.
If you were measuring the amount/length of lining on the metal shoe that should be a standard for the drum. More lining always goes to the rear shoe. This is too new for dual wheel cylinders where each would be the same amount of lining.


Gotcha on the punch in peg that I long forgot about. Redone brakes take those out and give you new ones or all I recall.
Said before keep your old "core" shoes till this definitely works out exactly right. I know it's old but this stuff is still out there in use on something maybe lots newer than this?


Seems like you are all set,


T

Response From ShyWillow

When my dad measured he took a tape measure and bent it around the pad on the brake shoe to get 12 and across it is 3 and told me it's 12 x 3. I looked up several measurement methods for determining size of shoe, most show it as inside diameter of brake drum and depth. A few of them suggest on most brake drums is stamped the inside diameter. The brake shoes I found where everything matched was WAGNER-PAB336 witch are for a 1972 dodge B200 Van Sportsman. I don't know if that's the right ones or not.. It just got me to thinking the whole 12x3 might not be right so I had to ask and after his grumpy you don't know anything I have done this for longer than you have been alive and internet can't help you do anything speech. I wonted to double check his way of finding the size. None of the things I found showed doing it like he did. We aren't getting the shoes off of ebay as they are for a van/sportsman instead of a truck tradesman.. Though if Napa, auto-zone, or other such places can't help him this time with the 11x3 I might get them.

He has already told me he will be keeping the cores. Old parts get harder and harder to find. I am going to have him take the brake drum and shoes with him this time.

Oh this is also a front driver side we have taken apart.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? You need to measure the inside of the drum where shoes contact even with a ruler or tape measure - that's the drum size. Like this sample (not yours) done in mm....
/


With drum off place a new show inside and it should just about match up with the arc of shoe and inside of drum even with some wear look real close. If a drum was ONE inch larger it would be wildly obvious shoe(s) aren't correct.


Don't be measuring just the amount of lining on the shoes. I said rear will have more friction material than the front on purpose. Who decided how much for each isn't my call if that part is right for the vehicle. One inch now talking length I don't even bother for most just know that they are correct or not.


Samples pics of common drum brakes even this old...........
/
See the top shoe in this pic the length of lining this one riveted to the metal shoe is longer on the right side of that pic meaning those go to the rear of the vehicle + the ones shown left side go to the front.


You have to know some basics of this or you'll get in trouble. New hardware is always suggested - hold down springs and return springs. Left and right wheels are "asymmetrically" opposite meaning like your hands are a mirror image of each other.


This is primal and crude as brakes go but put on wrong will self destruct with broken springs or who knows if AFUed. You have to also know parking brake cable is free and returns/extends out fully or you are out of your league doing this job but can get parts.
I can't think of any wild special tools for any for this except common brake spring pliers and hold-down tool like a round ended screwdriver. Park cable can be a fight to get on arms + there's a tool for that or work with pliers carefully.


Can't let you mess this up even finding parts you have to know what I just said to measure drum. Shoes should match old ones also a reason to keep them to match up.


If in doubt doing this please get help it isn't that hard as things go but anything can be messed up and this is brakes so no room for mistakes!


T

Response From Double J

I looked up on Wagner and Raybestos websites
Had to look under 1972 D200 pickup

Found several 12x3 shoes

Wagner part # Z358 AR Front and Rears

Raybestos Part # 314 PG or 314 SG Front and Rears

Autozone and OReilly both showed a part # 358 for 12x3 shoes as well

Don't know if that's what you have or what they gave you already

95 Chrysler Cirrus Oil Leaks at Exhaust Studs

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From mibf350 on 95 Chrysler Cirrus Oil Leaks at Exhaust Studs

Auto Specs: 95 Chrysler Cirrus, 2.5L V6 (Misubishi), 211350 Miles.

GENERAL: This is a help my daughters "friend" that turned into a project. Car purchased from a tow yard so no maintenance history available. Ran OK - Oil all over lower engine and frame - vacuum leaks.

OIL LEAK REPAIRS: Replaced valve cover gaskets, cam seals, oil pressure sender.

OTHER REPAIRS: Replaced timing belt with idler and tension rollers, water pump and inlet tube, accessory belts, intake and injector gaskets, vacuum tubing as needed, rear brake shoes and drums, radiator flush.

Engine runs OK after repairs.

PROBLEM: Oil is leaking/seeping around the exhaust manifold studs. Specifically the lower row of studs on both exhaust manifolds but only the first three studs from the front of the engine.

Oil was present in these areas before repairs. I wiped excess oil, drips etc. and ran the engine after repairs, inspecting for leaks, water, oil etc. I can see the oil squeezing out between the flat washer and nut on the studs described. I have wiped this down several times, and no oil is coming down from the valve covers or head gaskets. The exhaust manifold is completely dry and devoid of any oil except along the lower stud web of the manifold. The oil forms sufficient to drip off the tip of the stud in about 5 minutes of idling.

Inspecting the heads on the car and other online pictures it appears there may be an oil channel that runs behind the lower row of exhaust studs from the front of the head that ends between the third and fourth stud. Also note no oil is coming out at the fourth stud on either manifold. The car does not smoke and the exhaust gaskets are tight and intact.

The remedy would appear to be resealing the stud threads in the head but I have never seen this problem before on any engine. I do not have any familiarity with this engine so if anyone out there does I would appreciate your input.

Thanks, MIB.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You have to be wrong about this. None of it makes any sense at all. There is no oil galley placed that close to exhaust. Oil could not survive in that environment. The head could be crack in one specific area but that wouldn't spread over the entire manifold.

Brake repair or lack of on 2000 GMC Sierra

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From dogsnponies on Brake repair or lack of on 2000 GMC Sierra

I had taken my truck in for repair as the the brakes were making noise and slow to stop. When I picked up the truck I was advised that the brakes were not in need of repair but instead were cleaned and adjusted. The receipt read: "Remove dual rear wheels, inspect shoes, drums, wheel cylinders and hardware, replace and torque to specification".
A few weeks later the rear brakes seized and caught on fire on the highway necessitating a tow for the truck and a horse trailer. The brakes had to be drilled off of the truck and the truck required new rear brake shoes, wheel cylinders and adjustment. I was told my the mechanic that the linings were paper thin.
My question is- what did this first shop do wrong or not do at all?

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

After a couple of weeks worth of driving before the incident; I find it hard to believe they were adjusted incorrectly; with-in the first 10 or 20 miles you would have felt/smelt/seen something.
I have seen the self adjuster(s) do this and don’t ask me why?
It just happened to us on a 3500 GMC G van; we did a complete rear brake job; it got everything except drums (they were machined); about 6 months ago.
Last week the driver came in with smoke rolling out of the right rear drum. Pulled it apart; thinking I was going to see a failed axle seal or the bonding of the friction material had come off. But there was nothing visibly wrong other then you could see that the new adjuster lever had a worn mark on it from trying to ratchet the adjuster wheel? Everything was in place; the parking cable wasn’t over tightened, nothing? We replaced all the heat damaged components, machined the drum and sent him down the road; still not knowing why?
This part I’m only speculating on; this is a new driver (one week) with this company and he’s on a route where he has to back into a lot of loading docks with this van. If he’s a nervous two footed driver (especially backing up); it could explain why the adjuster got such a work out?
Back in the 80’s when full sized rear wheel drive Chryslers were the norm as taxi cabs; we would purposely leave the adjuster levers off. We blamed the constant stop & go and backing up that a cab does for the adjuster to walk themselves up and lock the wheels?

Dan.

Response From Hammer Time

They may have adjusted them to tightly or something in the self adjusters kept making them tighter. It is highly suspicious at the least but hard to prove anything.

Two Ladies Restoring a 1988 Chrysler Fith Avenue Need Help Installing Brakes and Suspension! PLEASE HELP!!!

Showing 3 out of 7 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Dark1s on Two Ladies Restoring a 1988 Chrysler Fith Avenue Need Help Installing Brakes and Suspension! PLEASE HELP!!!

We're doing a complete restore on a 1988 Chrysler 5th Avenue. First of all just to let everyone know, we don't have any previous automotive experience But we're not dumb and we're determined that this car is going to get fixed, even if we have to stand on our heads! After purchasing the repair manual online, we already with no one's help installed the windshield wiper motor, and stripped down the door frames and replaced the window motor. So as far as the brakes and suspension go, we're starting with the parts that need the most attention. First on the list of repairs is completely replacing all the parts that have to do with Steering, Suspension, and Brakes. When replacing the Brakes and Suspension, which parts should we replace first? We called the local auto parts store and got a list of parts we need to to replace the Brakes. Here's the list they gave us.1 Brake Pads (Front), 1 Brake Shoes (Rear), 2 Rotor & Hub Assemblies (Front), 2 Brake Drums (Rear), 2 Wheel Cylinders (Rear), 1 Brake Show Hardware Kit, 1 Hold Down Kit (Rear), 1 Self Adjuster Repair Kit (Left), 1 Self Adjuster Repair Kit (Right), 1 Brake Hose ( Left Front), 1 Brake Hose (Right Front), 1 Brake Hose (Rear), 2 Wheel Bearings (Outer and Front), 2 Wheel Seals, (Front Wheel), 2 Spindle Lock Nut Kits (Front), 2 Dust Caps/Wheel Bearing), 2 Wheel Bearings (Rear Wheel), 2 Wheel Seals (Rear Wheel), 1 Caliper w/ Hardware (Left Front), 1 Caliper w/Hardware (Right Front). Is anything missing from this list? Which part is it best to install first? Now for the suspension, we're really out in the cold, because Mopar doesn't make any of the parts going back more then 10 years and we're talking 1988, so we have find a different solution to getting parts such as new leaf springs and a torsion bar, etc for the suspension. How do we find parts not made by the manufacturer any more??? And we're talking about complete teardown of the suspension just like the brakes. We want to get this baby in mint condition! Like he came right off the lot!

By the way, there's another question that's kinda related to this whole job. We're gonna be under the car a lot, so we want to know, Are Jack Stands Safe? I've heard a lot of hell stories about Jack stands, so we wanted to know can you lift the car completely off the ground on four jackstands and work safely underneath it? We're using four five-ton jack stands. Any suggestions would be great. We'll be so happy when the brakes and suspension are working again. No more squeaking and slipping! Thanks again!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

You have so much going on here that you probably should enroll in an adult ed vocational school.

Why do you think it needs a torsion bar? Just one! Rusted at the floor? Forget that car if so.

Leaf springs - again why?

If you must do this just make sure car is properly supported on solid surface.

Best to ask one question at a time as things arise. I can't give you two year tech school education in one thread,

T

Response From Dark1s

Thank you for your imput Tom but we don't have the money or time to go to vocational school so we have been kinda winging it like they did in the ol day's. I purchased the repair manual because it's a complete rebuild guide as for as the basic parts. The leaf springs on my car are not in the best condition a bit of rust on them and the shackles on one of them looks very bent. We were just simply asking if it's a good idea to do the brakes and suspension at the same time since we are going to be taking the bottom of the car apart? And which one should we start working on first the suspension or the brakes?? We we're just hoping to get some kinda guideness or els we'll just have to jump in head first?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'd make it stop properly first!

What you need is one heck of a good parts outlet. I would choose NAPA nearest to me for pro help. Springs (leaf) can be fixed and a good parts store would know who does in the area.

Near every dumb part you need is same day for a car that new or is for me. I drive an 1989 as a dailer driver - not this car but order by 10am parts are there by 4pm almost without fail!

Torsion bars are adjustable! If one is broken (I think this uses two) that's a different thing.

Suspension and front end parts. They wouldn't likely all be bad so learn how to look for the worn ones.

Brakes: Follow your guide to the letter! If you need parking brake cables you make any adjustments to them when brakes are done and proper first.

Short of dropping this off for resoration there are several trades involved. Front end and alignment specialty shops. Not worth buying some tools for many repairs. You will likely need an auto body shop and a body shop parts store for some common stuff. Know a good salvage yard. Special body parts won't be available new easily.

Special shops for different things:

Body work/finish work.
Auto Glass as needed.
Transmission work is frequently on it's own.
Front End parts and alignments not done everywhere - another specialty.
Uphostery! Need I say more?
A/C is frequently on its own too.
Welding is on its own short of smaller issues.
The list goes on forever.

Trying to say you need a good central shop and parts store as your "Ring Master" to do this as you simply won't be able to do everything yourself.

There are plenty of things you can do yourself and plenty that would cost you zillions to have the equipment/tools for.

I'd find a local or national club for Mopars and join it.

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Is the car operational now? If rough enough you may want to buy a parts car of the same.

One thing at a time as you can't just wave a wand and it all be done at once nor at the same places.

Tools! Yikes you can go broke buying just tools. When something needs a special tool it frequently is better to just let that go out as the tool can easily exceed the whole cost of a job. Why own a tool for a one time thing?

Appreciate your energy but suggest you break things down into catagories and go for it one area at a time,

T

Response From Dark1s

Thanks. Appreciate you pointing us in the right direction. We are starting just one job at a time. Now we know to stick with the brakes first. The car is operational. So we're not trying to do everything at once. Trying to keep the job step by step. Right now what we're focusing on is the Brakes and Suspension, since that is what we seems to have the most problems. The A/C and all that other stuff can wait for later. We already found a local junkyard and pulled some body interior parts, so we're not completely dumb. We've done our research as much as a newbie can do.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Start with front brakes. I wouldn't even touch the rears till front is all done. If you place floor jack under lower control arm just lift it a couple inches. Pry up on the wheel still on and look for motion at ball joints then jockey it side to side and look for tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arm for play. Just do that now so you know if you need those.

Take the front wheels off, caliper off of rotor and let's get going. The flex hoses unless this is a museum piece will give you a hard time where they meed the body and metal line. May break metal line and we can cross those bridges when and if they happen,

T

Response From Hammer Time

I can't give you two year tech school education in one thread,

Keyboard won' survive that........LOL