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Mountain
2005 Nissan 350Z Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-566EE23    New

Qty:
$123.97
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • Production: 12/01/2004-07/31/2005
  • Front
Brand: Mountain
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2005 - Nissan 350Z
Mountain
2006 Nissan 350Z Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-566EE23    New

Qty:
$123.97
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • Production: 09/2005-
  • Front
Brand: Mountain
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2006 - Nissan 350Z
Mountain
2007 Nissan 350Z Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-566EE23    New

Qty:
$123.97
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • Production: 11/01/2006-
  • Front
Brand: Mountain
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2007 - Nissan 350Z
Mountain
2009 Nissan 350Z Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-566EE23    New

Qty:
$123.97
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • with Nismo/ Track or Gt Package
  • Front
Brand: Mountain
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2009 - Nissan 350Z
Mountain
2009 Nissan 350Z Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-566EE23    New

Qty:
$123.97
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • Except Nismo or Track Package
  • Front
Brand: Mountain
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Vehicle
2009 - Nissan 350Z
Brembo
1986 Nissan Maxima Disc Brake Rotor Brembo

P311-323021A    New

Qty:
$19.53
Brembo Disc Brake Rotor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/1985-
  • Front
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1986 - Nissan Maxima
Mountain
1986 Nissan Maxima Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-21E89E8    New

Qty:
$20.89
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • Production: 07/1985-
  • Front
Brand: Mountain
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1986 - Nissan Maxima
Brembo
1987 Nissan Maxima Disc Brake Rotor Brembo

P311-323021A    New

Qty:
$19.53
Brembo Disc Brake Rotor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Nissan Maxima
Mountain
1987 Nissan Maxima Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-21E89E8    New

Qty:
$20.89
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • Front
Brand: Mountain
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Nissan Maxima
Brembo
1988 Nissan Maxima Disc Brake Rotor Brembo

P311-323021A    New

Qty:
$19.53
Brembo Disc Brake Rotor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -08/1988
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - Nissan Maxima
Mountain
1988 Nissan Maxima Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-21E89E8    New

Qty:
$20.89
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • Production: -08/1988
  • Front
Brand: Mountain
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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1988 - Nissan Maxima
Mountain
1970 Nissan 240Z Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-1594DAD    New

Qty:
$39.37
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • Production: 10/1969-
  • NLA 6/16
  • Front
Brand: Mountain
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1970 - Nissan 240Z
Mountain
1971 Nissan 240Z Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-1594DAD    New

Qty:
$39.37
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • NLA 6/16
Brand: Mountain
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1971 - Nissan 240Z
Mountain
1973 Nissan 240Z Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-1594DAD    New

Qty:
$39.37
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • Production: -07/1973
  • NLA 6/16
Brand: Mountain
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1973 - Nissan 240Z
Brembo
2011 Nissan GT-R Disc Brake Rotor Brembo

P311-5C9812A    New

Qty:
$607.69
Brembo Disc Brake Rotor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 12/01/2010-
Brand: Brembo
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Vehicle
2011 - Nissan GT-R
Brembo
2012 Nissan GT-R Disc Brake Rotor Brembo

P311-5C9812A    New

Qty:
$607.69
Brembo Disc Brake Rotor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Brembo
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Vehicle
2012 - Nissan GT-R
Kiriu
1996 Nissan Pathfinder Disc Brake Rotor Kiriu

P311-11D66E6    New

Qty:
$114.10
Kiriu Disc Brake Rotor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 10/1995-
Brand: Kiriu
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Vehicle
1996 - Nissan Pathfinder
Mountain
1996 Nissan Pathfinder Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-3300B36    New

Qty:
$113.28
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • Production: 10/1995-
  • Front
Brand: Mountain
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Nissan Pathfinder
Kiriu
1997 Nissan Pathfinder Disc Brake Rotor Kiriu

P311-11D66E6    New

Qty:
$114.10
Kiriu Disc Brake Rotor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Kiriu
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Nissan Pathfinder
Mountain
1997 Nissan Pathfinder Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-3300B36    New

Qty:
$113.28
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • Front
Brand: Mountain
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Nissan Pathfinder

Latest Nissan Repair and Brake Rotors Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Brake rotor wear

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From zmasterflex on Brake rotor wear

2007 Nissan Murano S AWD 70k. Changing my friends brakes (front and rear). Upon visual inspection both front and rear pads seem to be between 80-90 percent wear. The front rotors look completely smooth but the rear rotors have a tiny tiny groove on the outside section of the rotor right off of the rim. Is there standard "bad rotor" picture so I can ignore this groove? These rotors are quite thin to begin with and replacements are 55 bucks each for this car. I plan on putting on thermoquiets because all the standard chain store garbage brakes with their lifetime warrantees are eating up my rotors left (and right). any advice would be much appreciated thanks.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

It is never OK to ignore rotors when doing a brake job. The only decision should be whether they get resurfaced or replaced. The visual thichness of the rotor means nothing. They need to be measured and if they have never been cut before, they are likely resurficeable. The old rotors have worn to the shape of the old pads and will not have a good enough surface for the new pads. You will not only see inadequate braking but noises will be a problem.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Agreed - you really can't ignore rotors with pad replacement. Groove alone isn't the issue so much as thickness and uniformity of the surface which simply won't be perfect without turning them but the problem with that is it costs to turn them and hence the thickness is less again making them subject to premature warping.

Many do give you tons of extra metal from new. Some can't take one turning and be legal thickness some can. Granted, everyone wants to save a buck but this isn't a good place to save. Life of the job and performance will pay off the costs of going new minus not having to pay to turn them.

Now you have the issue of used pads and they are partly (most likely) on their way to conforming to the irregular pattern of old rotors so you are wasting $ in the course of trying to save some IMO. Here are new specs for new rotors. Old ones should have a mark for minimum thickness on them. Rears shown first then fronts,
Pics may not show. Rear thickness should show 16.1mm, fronts 28mm,

/


/
The cost of not stopping properly can be catastrophic of course,

T

Need help with 97 Nissan Altima GXE

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From SJ on Need help with 97 Nissan Altima GXE

Hi,
I am the second owner of a 97 Nissan Altima GXE with an automatic transmission. Bought it in April 2007 and haven't had any issues except brake rotor and pad replacement. The details of the car are as follows:
Make: 97 Nissan Altima GXE
4Cyl.
Mileage:28/34
Miles:95000

Recently while driving I lost power. Could not get any acceleration while pressing on the gas pedal although the engine was running. The RPM did not increase either. The brakes suddenly felt jammed and I couldn't apply brakes. The brake light on the dashboard was lit although the handbrakes were not applied. I was on a downward slope with no power and no brakes. I rolled down the hill and stopped using the handbrakes. Got the car towed to a mechanic. At the mechanic's shop the car was runing fine. The guy agreed to have a look at the car. He acknowledged the problem and said it was intermittent but could not point out a reason why.
Any suggestion would be greatly helpful.
Thanks
SJ

Response From Guest

Hi,
Thanks for the tip. The diagnostic error code is 703 which is supposedly means that the ratio of the 1st gear to the 2nd gear is off. Could you please give me some idea whether the transmission can be repaired or do I need to buy a new one.
SJ

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

Going off what you've said, I doubt you need a new transmission.... Intermittens are tough to track down. Your problem really sounds like an electrical issue and that code could just be a byproduct of the electrical problem..... There is only so much you can do online and an intermitten electrical problem is tough enough to track down with car in front of you...

What you can do is check the basics, battery, cables, connections make sure all are clean. It wouldn't hurt to take the ground cables & straps of & clean the contact areas.... After that try to find a shop strong in electrical & diagnosis and give them all the info. If you don't know of one, talk to friends & neighbors, you can go to ase.com or iatn.net (don't forget the Ws) and use their shop locators, check out the BBB. Just remember the best shop for the job won't be the cheapest.... upfront but may turn out to be in the long run....if you factor in down time of the car and other stuff.........

Hope this helps a little

Response From Sidom

There is really not much info to go off of.... Did the tech check for codes & find any? If so what were they......

As far as the brakes go, that can be relate to the engine problem. The car uses a vacuum power booster or the brakes & with no vacuum goin to it the pedal will feel like it does when you press on it with the engine off.


Intermittens can be hard to track down...... The one clue you seemed to provide it whatever is going on it seems to be affecting engine vacuum. I would probably start with the basic's check air intake & exhaust for problems but those are usually not intermittens.........

Did My Repair Shop Screw Something Up?

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From Guest on Did My Repair Shop Screw Something Up?

I have a 2003 Nissan Pathfinder.

On Friday I had: the automatic transmission fluid flushed and filled; the coolant system flushed and filled; the oil changed; the drive belts replaced; and the brake rotors turned.

I drove it about 10 miles and then all of a sudden the power steering went out and the following warning lights remained on: "Auto Transmission Oil Temp"; "Brake"; "Battery".

According to the truck's manual, the Auto Trans Oil Temp light indicates high temperature in the auto transmission oil. The Brake light indicates low brake fluid. The Battery light indicates a problem with the vehicles charging system.

I think the shop screwed something up, but I don't want to take it back to them unless I can convince them I know what went wrong.

I appreciate any help you can provide in diagnosing what might have happened.

Thanks.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Are the belts on properly -- you could see that and they shouldn't be too loose, T

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

I think you should go back to them and ask them what happened. Could be an honest mistake or a part could have failed. Something as simple as the accessory belt that has come off for whatever reason. You showed them your trust to do the repairs; show them some more and go and see what they have to say. Maybe call them and ask if you should even drive it in; you don’t want too take a chance of doing damage by driving it with the warning lights on.
Post back with how they handled this for you; most established shops will look after their customers, we work to hard to get your trust not to.
Dan.

95 Nissan Sentra Front End Vibration

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From shadowwarrior on 95 Nissan Sentra Front End Vibration

I have front end vibration that while apparent at all speeds, is more apparent between 60 -70 mph. It is very strange. It is inconsistent. I can be driving at 65 with the vibration, the next thing, it's mostly gone. I can be at 75 with no shake and when I slow down and go through that speed range, it starts shaking till I get below 60. I can go into a curve and it may either start or end vibrations. I can be driving at the same speed and it can either start or stop.

I have had front tires replaced. The left one was bad, the other was just worn. Still no change. I have had the front end inspected by one garage, and they told me the front end was good, but that I needed an alignment. I'm sure I do, but this would not cause this vibration. Another place told me both of my CVU axles were bad. I have noticed fluid on the ground by the right front tire, but the vibration SEEMS to be on the left. When the car vibrates, so does the driver side mirror. The other one does not vibrate.

Any ideas?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

As said - anything that is spinning at wheel speed could be the trouble. By description the sound you hear is a wheel bearing which could cause vibration - that's a severe warning when a wheel bearing can do that and unknown as to if it will last a minute more. CV joint boot being torn has already allowed dirt in there and if it's determined that the joint is still good then decide on whether you want to do just a boot or replace the shaft. Check prices - some are too reasonable to fool with whole and rebuilt.

In general wheel bearings make a whirr or growl and CV joints crackle especially when turning with power applied. You may need both for this. It's hard to feel a problem part sometimes without taking them out

T

Response From shadowwarrior

I know the rotors are good. They were brand new last year and still on their first set of pads. I was told that a CVU boot was torn. There is one noise that I do hear. That is a sound like machinery winding down. This occurs when I slow or stop. I was wondering about the wheel bearings.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

If front end parts are known safe the alignment can only help but probably isn't the source. Usually tires, tire balance and wheel trueness are at fault but anything that spins with the wheels could be including brake rotors. Bearings and CV joints are a maybe but usually make noises. They could cause vibrations. Find source of the leak and fix before alignment as it may need another alignment after that is fixed depeding on what needs fixing for that.

Note: Noises and vibrations may be from one side and seem like they are the other so all must be checked. Putting front tires and wheels on back would be informative if that changed the problem,

T

Dual Mass Fly Wheel for 1992 F250 7.4

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From JustAGirl on Dual Mass Fly Wheel for 1992 F250 7.4

Took truck to shop to have clutch replaced and was told need new flywheel. After looking around looks like flywheel running about $800. Did more research found LUK makes a flywheel conversion kit. Anyone know anything about this. Also, need to know if a 13 inch flywheel will work with 11 inch or 12 inch clutch. We've been told that we have 11 inch but could possibly have 12 inch. Anyone know what is standard?

Response From wheelfixny

nice post

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I plead ignorance with what a "dual mass" flywheel is. Something sounds fishy here. Why can't this job be done with standard original size parts and why is the flywheel so bad that it can't be machined?? Are the teeth on the flywheel ok for the starter motor to work properly? $800 for this part sounds outragous! That if needed at all. A second opinion would be my suggestion. I hope it's still running but if slipping you don't have long. How was that diagnosed? Did someone take it all apart and leave you stranded? Good luck - let us know how you make out with this, T

Response From Guest

I have one for sale for $350 plus whatever the shipping is to you. in excellent shape if your interested. its used, but in excellent condition, no wear, the action feels shooth. If your interested contact me at jwiemeier@deming-nm.com

Response From dmac0923 Top Rated Answer

Tom-

i was with you, the old school flywheels and flex plates were plain and simple. I did the clutch on my 02 Sentra i removed the bell housing to find a very odd looking object. i discovered it had a dual mass flywheel. its a two piece design with your normal everyday ring gear and the inner part is the contact ring (almost looks like brake rotor) for the clutch. its independent and has springs.

these springs are supposedly for driver comfort and to help absorb drive line vibrations and smoother shifts.

unfortunately i too had to spend almost $600 for a new flywheel from NISSAN since these flywheels ARE NOT able to resurfaced.

Nissan recommends that as long as there is no deep scores/groves (like mine had) you should be able to take emery paper and scuff up the mating surface.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Folks - This thread is almost THREE years old already!

T

Response From JustAGirl

I did some reading on the internet and found out that this type of flywheel was used in both Ford and Chevy diesel trucks as well as BMW's and Mini's, and some medium duty trucks. I asked about have they flywheel turned and was told that it can't be done on this type of fly wheel. Everything I've read says that when the clutch is replaced, the flywheel typically has to be replaced. Sounds like another one of these great inventions. And yes, we knew nothing about it until the truck was taken apart. And the truck is actually at the repair shop of a local dealer. (Luckily we have a contact on the inside.) So at this point we would have to pay for the labor and then have the truck towed to another location. The dealer/mechanic offered to look for used parts and found what he thought would work, until he actually tried to use it. No luck. So were are up a creek without a paddle right now. Luckily this isn't a primary vehicle for us and the mechanic is willing to hold off on the truck until we can find what we need, but we are still looking for an alternative.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry this is happening to you. Does anyone wonder why they don't buy another vehicle made by the manufacturer that does stupid stuff like this? When will companies learn to say to engineers " YOU ARE FIRED!!!!!?" T