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ACDelco
2012 Buick LaCrosse Disc Brake Rotor ACDelco

P311-270B492    W0133-1985323  New

Qty:
$63.86
ACDelco Disc Brake Rotor
  • Advantage
  • with Vehicles Originally Equipped with 17" Wheels (RPO J61)
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
2012 - Buick LaCrosse
ACDelco
2012 Buick LaCrosse Disc Brake Rotor ACDelco

P311-270B492    W0133-1985323  New

Qty:
$160.32
ACDelco Disc Brake Rotor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • with Vehicles Originally Equipped with 17" Wheels (RPO J61)
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
2012 - Buick LaCrosse
ACDelco
2012 Buick Regal Disc Brake Rotor ACDelco

P311-270B492    W0133-1985323  New

Qty:
$63.86
ACDelco Disc Brake Rotor
  • Advantage
  • w/o Brembo Front Caliper

    with 321mm Diameter Brake Disc
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
2012 - Buick Regal
ACDelco
2012 Buick Regal Disc Brake Rotor ACDelco

P311-270B492    W0133-1985323  New

Qty:
$160.32
ACDelco Disc Brake Rotor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • w/o Brembo Front Caliper

    with 321mm Diameter Brake Disc
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Buick Regal
ACDelco
2016 Buick LaCrosse Disc Brake Rotor ACDelco

P311-270B492    W0133-1985323  New

Qty:
$63.86
ACDelco Disc Brake Rotor
  • Advantage
  • with Vehicles Originally Equipped with 17" Wheels (RPO J61) and Except Vehicle Manufactured in Mexico
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
2016 - Buick LaCrosse
ACDelco
2016 Buick LaCrosse Disc Brake Rotor ACDelco

P311-270B492    W0133-1985323  New

Qty:
$160.32
ACDelco Disc Brake Rotor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • with Vehicles Originally Equipped with 17" Wheels (RPO J61) and Except Vehicle Manufactured in Mexico
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2016 - Buick LaCrosse
ACDelco
2016 Buick Regal Disc Brake Rotor ACDelco

P311-270B492    W0133-1985323  New

Qty:
$63.86
ACDelco Disc Brake Rotor
  • Advantage
  • with Vehicles Originally Equipped with 17" Wheels

    Except Vehicle Manufactured in Mexico
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2016 - Buick Regal
ACDelco
2016 Buick Regal Disc Brake Rotor ACDelco

P311-270B492    W0133-1985323  New

Qty:
$160.32
ACDelco Disc Brake Rotor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • with Vehicles Originally Equipped with 17" Wheels

    Except Vehicle Manufactured in Mexico
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2016 - Buick Regal
ACDelco
2017 Buick Regal Disc Brake Rotor ACDelco

P311-270B492    W0133-1985323  New

Qty:
$63.86
ACDelco Disc Brake Rotor
  • Advantage
  • with Vehicles Originally Equipped with 17" Wheels and Performance Front Strut (RPO GNB) or Front Strut (RPO GNA)

    Except Vehicle Manufactured in Mexico
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
2017 - Buick Regal
ACDelco
2017 Buick Regal Disc Brake Rotor ACDelco

P311-270B492    W0133-1985323  New

Qty:
$160.32
ACDelco Disc Brake Rotor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • with Vehicles Originally Equipped with 17" Wheels and Performance Front Strut (RPO GNB) or Front Strut (RPO GNA)

    Except Vehicle Manufactured in Mexico
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2017 - Buick Regal
ACDelco
2012 Buick Regal Disc Brake Rotor ACDelco

P311-476E544    W0133-1896943  New

Qty:
$144.18
ACDelco Disc Brake Rotor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • with Brembo Front Caliper (RPO GNB - Performance Brakes)
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Buick Regal
Centric
2000 Buick LeSabre Disc Brake Rotor - Front Centric

P311-5AC61E1    121.62057  New

Qty:
$26.47
Centric Disc Brake Rotor  Front
  • 15 Wheels
  • C-TEK Standard Disc
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Buick LeSabre Front
Centric
2002 Buick Century Disc Brake Rotor - Front Centric

P311-5AC61E1    121.62057  New

Qty:
$26.47
Centric Disc Brake Rotor  Front
  • C-TEK Standard Disc
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Buick Century Front
Pronto
2002 Buick Century Disc Brake Rotor - Front Pronto

P311-5EC8853    BR55036  New

Qty:
$18.70
Pronto Disc Brake Rotor  Front
  • Vented
  • Product Attributes:
    • : No
    • Discard Thickness:
      • 1.21
      • 30.734
    • Lug: 5
    • Nominal Thickness:
      • 1.27
      • 32.258
    • Outer Diameter: 10.94"
    • Overall Height: 2.05"
    • Pattern: 4.65"
    • ProdWeight: 14.74
    • Type: Vented
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Buick Century Front
Pronto
2000 Buick LeSabre Disc Brake Rotor - Front Pronto

P311-5EC8853    BR55036  New

Qty:
$18.70
Pronto Disc Brake Rotor  Front
  • with 15 Inch Wheels; Vented
  • Product Attributes:
    • : No
    • Discard Thickness:
      • 1.21
      • 30.734
    • Lug: 5
    • Nominal Thickness:
      • 1.27
      • 32.258
    • Outer Diameter: 10.94"
    • Overall Height: 2.05"
    • Pattern: 4.65"
    • ProdWeight: 14.74
    • Type: Vented
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Buick LeSabre Front
Pronto
1987 Buick Somerset Disc Brake Rotor - Front Pronto

P311-5EC8853    BR55036  New

Qty:
$18.70
Pronto Disc Brake Rotor  Front
  • 10.87" Drum; Vented
  • Product Attributes:
    • : No
    • Discard Thickness:
      • 1.21
      • 30.734
    • Lug: 5
    • Nominal Thickness:
      • 1.27
      • 32.258
    • Outer Diameter: 10.94"
    • Overall Height: 2.05"
    • Pattern: 4.65"
    • ProdWeight: 14.74
    • Type: Vented
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Submodel
1987 - Buick Somerset Front Custom
Centric
2000 Buick LeSabre Disc Brake Rotor - Front Centric

P311-46469FE    121.62055  New

Qty:
$32.68
Centric Disc Brake Rotor  Front
  • 16 Wheels
  • C-TEK Standard Disc
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Buick LeSabre Front
Centric
1997 Buick Park Avenue Disc Brake Rotor - Front Centric

P311-46469FE    121.62055  New

Qty:
$32.68
Centric Disc Brake Rotor  Front
  • C-TEK Standard Disc
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Buick Park Avenue Front
Pronto
2000 Buick LeSabre Disc Brake Rotor - Front Pronto

P311-23A0A73    BR55034  New

Qty:
$22.42
Pronto Disc Brake Rotor  Front
  • with 16 Inch Wheels; To Vin 59143075; Vented
  • Product Attributes:
    • : No
    • Discard Thickness:
      • 1.21
      • 30.734
    • Lug: 5
    • Nominal Thickness:
      • 1.27
      • 32.258
    • Outer Diameter: 11.92"
    • Overall Height: 2.04"
    • Pattern: 4.65"
    • ProdWeight: 17.71
    • Type: Vented
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Buick LeSabre Front
Pronto
1997 Buick Park Avenue Disc Brake Rotor - Front Pronto

P311-23A0A73    BR55034  New

Qty:
$22.42
Pronto Disc Brake Rotor  Front
  • Vented
  • Product Attributes:
    • : No
    • Discard Thickness:
      • 1.21
      • 30.734
    • Lug: 5
    • Nominal Thickness:
      • 1.27
      • 32.258
    • Outer Diameter: 11.92"
    • Overall Height: 2.04"
    • Pattern: 4.65"
    • ProdWeight: 17.71
    • Type: Vented
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Buick Park Avenue Front

Latest Buick Repair and Brake Rotors Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2000 Century 231 V6 Front right shakes on accelleration

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From comnavguy on 2000 Century 231 V6 Front right shakes on accelleration

This is a 2000 Buick Century with the 231 V6 engine with 114,000 miles on it.

Upon accelleration the right front seems as if it has a seriously out of round tire or horribly bent rim. It vibrates and shakes something awful. It's noticeable at all speeds but gets really bad from 45 MPH and up. It's horrible the faster it goes. The shake and vibration is only on accellerating.

I'm going to rotate the tires just to eliminate that possibility. But meantime...Any help or suggestions will make me a happy man.

Response From Discretesignals

Did you inspect the CV axle?

Response From comnavguy

The CV and then the strut are next just after we rotate the tires. I've heard that a BAD strut would give the kind of simptoms we're experiencing.

Probably tomorrow we'll check the CV and strut and will report back.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

No, a strut isn't going to act like that. A C/V would most likely only cause it when under acceleration. The main causes are tires and wheels or possibly even brake rotors but it would be much worse when braking at high speeds.

Response From comnavguy

Yes, this problem is ONLY on acceleration. Coasting or braking is normal. The vibration gets progressively worse as speed increases. Just slight acceleration above 45 MPH feels as if the front end is coming off.

The CV boot is OK and there is no clicking or noise from sharp turns left, right, forward and backward.

How do YOU check a CV ?

Response From Hammer Time

No, the clicking is a symptom of a bad outer joint. Your symptom is typical of a bad inner joint.

The only way to check that is to take it out of the car and feel it for binding in and out when under twisting pressure and even then you may not feel it.

Response From comnavguy

Replaced the CV and the problem was almost all gone. when they replaced the out-of-round tire, the problem was completely gone with the car running smoothly.

Thanks much for the help.

Response From Hammer Time

You're welcome.......... glad it worked out for you.

Front Calipers not releasing

Showing 3 out of 19 Posts | Show 16 Hidden Posts
Question From clatonious on Front Calipers not releasing

1995 buick roadmaster

Front calipers are not releasing 100%. I discovered this issue while replacing the brakes, went ahead and did calipers, rotors, and wheel bearings while in there so I'm all new on both sides (so rule out the obvious like calipers need lube). Both sides will not spin freely and are heating up when driven. If I open either bleeder then they BOTH release...demonstrating it is not a faulty flex hose. Therefore it can only be: A) bad master cylinder, B) push rod out of adjustment (I did buy it used and have no idea what's been done), or C) a bad combo/proportioning valve.

I don't think it's an ABS issue, nothing indicates there's any failure there. I'm trying to avoid just throwing parts at it and would rather diagnose my way through the issue so I'm looking for a way to test each component listed above to see where that last few pounds of pressure is not being released.

I know for starters the push rod adjustment can be tested by breaking the master cylinder free from the booster thus creating slack. So that solves B.

Any suggestions on isolating that unrelieved pressure?

OR, am I missing something else?

PS: I can't see it being an issue of wrong parts, it all fit together precisely as it should have. The only deviance from OEM I've made is the car is lowered on drop spindles and I put ceramic pads on the front. I can't see how either would have any bearing on this issue.

Response From Hammer Time

Therefore it can only be: A) bad master cylinder, B) push rod out of adjustment

I think you hit the nail on the head there.

The next time the brakes are locked up, get the front wheels off the ground and then loosen the hold down bolts to the master and slide it away from the boost by a quarter inch and see if the brakes free up. That will tell you if it's a rod adjustment problem. If that doesn't release them, crack the line loose at the master and see if that does to indicate a bad master.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hammer's suggestion is right on target. I can't imagine both flex hoses at once doing this. You may notice unusually little freeplay at top of brake pedal now.

This happened to me just once with a new master cyl that was in fact defective - whole batch was. I can't think of the pushrod being too different after doing brakes unless it was messed with or replaced. Master must let fluid back in of course so is highly likely to have a problem doing that. This is unusual to me for just doing routine brake job but that would explain it,

T

Response From clatonious

**UPDATE**
Jacked up the car this morning and both wheels were fairly free spinning. Started it up and pumped the pedal several times, holding it and such, and eventually they got pretty tight. Cracking it at the master cylinder did free them up.

One more odd thing...since I've gotten the car I've always felt a slight click in the steering wheel whenever I first tap the brakes. My neighbor was helping me today and pointed out that while I was pumping the brakes to get them to lock up the whole booster was flexing (which explains the tapping sensation). As the pedal goes nears the floor (and the piston in the mc nears its end) you can see the flex occur...which would lead one to thing the rod is too long or the pedal out of adjustment.

So I consulted my buick service bulletin on this which tells me NOTHING is adjustable, if rod is too long replace entire booster!


First off the booster is operating just fine.

Secondly, the resistance is right at the end of the pedal run, meaning the piston in the mc is just about fully engaged when the resistance hits, causing the booster to physically flex.

Is it possible that the mc is indeed toast due to A) it releasing pressure by cracking the line and B) having something in it that doesn't allow the piston to fully compress, thus causing resistance to the pedal/rod to the extreme that it actually makes the booster flex against the firewall?

I REALLY don't want to replace the booster, looks to be a super hassle.

Response From Hammer Time

I advised you to loosen the mounting bolts on the master before cracking the line open. Did you ignore that step?

Response From clatonious Top Rated Answer

ignored is not really the right word but yes I did start with the lines on the mc first because the car is out there and the computer is in here and I didn't remember the order. It's really not a big deal to go through it again because more than anything I want to understand what's going on here...leave it to me to have the flexing firewall.

Just bear in mind there was too much rod (or not enough room left in mc) to begin with otherwise I'd have never felt that sensation in the steering wheel from day one. Also, none of this was a result of the new calipers/brakes/rotors/bearings...I'd noticed the heat before but figured bad caliper.

I'll retest because I see now that cracking the lines would've relieved pressure from the lines OR from the rod...I get it.

BUT the fact remains I am flexing the booster due to too much rod or not enough mc and that's got to tell us something. I cannot believe GM is saying there's no adjustment, and I cannot understand how a rod would grow??? It would make more sense that there's gunk or something in the end of the mc and that's not allowing the piston to get full run.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just my two cents for now but I'm not too thrilled with the booster flexing as said? No - never noticed that myself but I also don't ride under a hood when someone slams on the brakes either. Also didn't think pushrod was adjustable on much of anything like this car. For the moment and waiting I think the booster has some strange problem either itself or plain not mounted right??

T

Response From clatonious

I can't find anything to suggest the booster is mounted improperly. Think of it this way...I was splitting wood not too long ago and was into a big old gnarly stump. The wedge buried into it and the pump kept pushing the cylinder out but it had nowhere to go because the wood simply wasn't giving anymore. There was actually enough force to make the heavy channel iron frame start to flex - same thing here.

So I either have a rod that's somehow too long OR an mc piston that cannot travel its full run. I just am trying to figure out which hole to start throwing money at. AND let's not forget this may be totally unrelated to calipers not freeing completely!

I'm hoping there's a collapsed spring in the mc or a bunch of gunk or a bad grommet. New mc and wham bam pressure is relieved and booster rod is allowed to travel its full run unhindered.

Flip side of that coin is that somehow booster rod is too long and 14 hours later whole booster is replaced. Boosters and mc's cost about the same.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

What would be the difference if master was pinned to the bottom vs just the massive force of braking? Nothing. If I read this correctly this problem was there before your brake work - right? Still does it now so being BOTH wheels suggests a problem with either master or booster OR could as DS said the booster just keeps working a bit after you let go?

You have to test the suggestions out already mentioned, we can't. I still don't like it that booster can visually move like that. There's a clue of where the problem is,

T

Response From clatonious

**Update**

Bled the car out totally.
Pumped it up while on blocks, couldn't build much resistance in calipers.
Drove it around a couple miles without brakes being touched, no heat.
Did a couple quick stops, virtually no heat.
Drove it around with light stops, medium heat (could barely touch finger to rotor).
Drove it around as if in city conditions, stopping often, heavy heat (rotors hot enough to fry skin and I could feel heat on my face coming through wheel).
Jacked it back up.
Wheels at this point almost frozen but still turnable.
Pulled booster vacuum line where check valve goes into booster. Pretty significant whoosh sound and wheels suddenly nice and free.
Started it up while still in the air, pumped it a few times till I felt some slight resistance building again, killed it, pulled line and again, smaller whoosh but wheels freed right up.
Blew/sucked into check valve, working properly.

So bad booster?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

None of us are there with your techniques. Of course brakes get hot but how much is near impossible to say on circumstances they were under. You have new brakes so they aren't quite done a full break in yet I think. Right out of the gate with new parts they can take some stops to be at their best - how many depends on the parts and situation too. Brand new they might even give an odor for a few stops.

I never did a brake job without driving a car a couple miles before handing it over to a customer. Not everyone can do that where they work.

If releasing vacuum from the booster frees up the wheels that is interesting. I don't think that should matter as essentially it's just to magnify the force you give it as in "power assisted" brakes which about everything is out there.

Long retired but this isn't all rocket science in a Roadmaster or shouldn't be.

You see the booster move oddly or that's how I understand it without seeing it myself so that's a judgment call. I can't know how hard you pushed and it would show some reaction but nothing to catch attention IMO.

A situation like this to me points towards a bad booster. Can't be sure of anything - this is a website not an actual repair shop being right there with on sight inspection.

For now I think you should consider the booster as the problem but it's still your call,

T

Response From clatonious

Just as an FYI I've put well over 150 miles on the car since the brakes/rotors/bearings/calipers. Like I said, it was sticking before but I assumed bad caliper and thus did the whole 9 yards and just drove normally and softly but it kept eating at me and I started digging.

So anyway I am thinking things are broke in.

I'll give this a couple of days and see if anyone else says much about it and then probably move forward with a booster.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

As said, long retired but still do my own stuff. This is BRAKES and all regulars here don't like tossing parts as a fix but I would call this an exception by what I understand so far. If it was my own I would NOT tolerate a brake problem like that at all. If somehow brakes got way too hot and you didn't notice then call it "fade" and they may not work well or worse terrible and an accident that could be avoided over chasing this down even if it takes a few bucks is cheap.

Quick look showed them as "remans" for under $100 (exchange for yours) or a deposit lost. I doubt this one is that difficult and haven't had the fun of doing one on any of these cars but probably takes some tools to get at the thru bolts, unhook the rod to get out starting from underdash. Just nuts on studs that go thru firewall. If enough flex in master cyl to move it still intact shouldn't be that hard but could be wrong.

It seems to be the common denominator of the problem. If it makes you feel better let a tech look at the problem and you can decide on DIY or what. Now you could look to see the 3-4 nuts the hold it and the rod and know if you can get at them with the tools available to you.

It's your responsibility to make this car stop properly if not for yourself for innocent other(s.) If you can't or don't want to finish out a perfect diagnosis let a shop take care of it. The car must stop. Going is not my concern with this.

Do the right thing,

T

Response From clatonious

UPDATE

New MC, new booster, new back brakes (needed done anyways), new fluid of course and survey says.................same problem still.

Only 2 things haven't been replaced new front to back now - combo valve and front hoses (of which no test really pointed that way).

So, I'll replace the both of them....which leaves the final option - the ABS junction/system.

I understand how the combo or hoses would still be the issue but can someone explain how the ABS box or system would be behind this?

Response From Hammer Time

Or you could just perform the test that you were asked to in the beginning and loosen the master cylinder mounting bolts to find out once and for all if the pressure is originating at the master.

Response From clatonious

OR you could realize that MC means master cylinder and A) that test was done and B) I put a new one on read above

Hey thanks for the help genius...great board you're running here

Response From Hammer Time

You're getting one warning and one warning only. Don't run your mouth around here or you will be gone in a heartbeat.

You may think you know it all but you really don't. A new master cylinder does not eliminate an incorrect push rod adjustment. There are ways to test for all these issues instead of your method of simply throwing parts at it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This is too important to wait. Fix it now. This is only web site not there in person or some things might be obvious.

Do the right things to fix this. No head games with Hammer Time or any body. Here for free to help so you get your money back in full - ZERO.

Nice round #. No problems folks, if you don't like this place just go away - easy! Many of us can do that for you!

Tom

Response From Discretesignals

Also before you unbolt the master from the brake booster to see if the brakes release, pull the booster check valve out of the booster to relieve the vacuum in the booster to see if the booster is the culprit. Seen that happen on a few cars.