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Best Selling Genuine Honda Brake Pads

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Beck Arnley, Bendix, Monroe, Performance Friction
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Honda Replacement Brake Pads Parts

We stock Brake Pads parts for most Honda models, including Accord, Civic, Prelude.

Beck Arnley
1989 Honda Prelude Disc Brake Pad - Front Beck Arnley

P311-0266636    087-1322  New

Qty:
$17.19
Beck Arnley Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • SEMI-METALLIC; Requires Steel Shims Supplied With Pads
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
1989 - Honda Prelude 2.0 Si Front
Beck Arnley
2010 Honda Civic Disc Brake Pad - Front Beck Arnley

P311-2652912    086-1766C  New

Qty:
$32.71
Beck Arnley Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • CERAMIC
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
2010 - Honda Civic GX Front
Beck Arnley
1988 Honda Accord Disc Brake Pad - Front Beck Arnley

P311-0266636    087-1322  New

Qty:
$17.19
Beck Arnley Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • SEMI-METALLIC; Original Equipment Type Pad Material
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
1988 - Honda Accord LXi Front
Bendix
1993 Honda Civic del Sol Disc Brake Pad - Rear Bendix - Bendix CQ

P311-4EB20B6    D374  New

Qty:
$40.61
Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • Abutment Kit Included Disc Pad OE Ceramic
  • Bendix CQ
Brand: Bendix
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1993 - Honda Civic del Sol Rear
Bendix
1993 Honda Civic del Sol Disc Brake Pad - Front Bendix - Bendix CQ

P311-3F68038    D273  New

Qty:
$40.61
Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • Abutment Kit Included Disc Pad OE Ceramic
  • Bendix CQ
Brand: Bendix
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
1993 - Honda Civic del Sol S Front
Bendix
1991 Honda Prelude Disc Brake Pad - Rear Bendix - Bendix CQ

P311-4EB20B6    D374  New

Qty:
$40.61
Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • Abutment Kit Included CANADA Disc Pad OE Ceramic
  • Bendix CQ
Brand: Bendix
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
1991 - Honda Prelude Si Rear
Monroe
Qty:
$33.16
Monroe Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • Hardware Kit Included; Most popular Hardware Kit included. Your vehicle may require a different Kit.
  • Monroe Brakes Total Solution Semi-Metallic Brake Pads
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
1997 - Honda Accord Coupe Front
Monroe
Qty:
$33.16
Monroe Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • with Akebono Front Caliper; Hardware Kit Included; Most popular Hardware Kit included. Your vehicle may require a different Kit.
  • Monroe Brakes Total Solution Semi-Metallic Brake Pads
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
1993 - Honda Accord Sedan Front
Performance Friction
Qty:
$46.45
Performance Friction Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • 273 CARBON METALLIC BRAKE PAD SET
  • Product Attributes:
    • FMSI Number: D273
    • Pad Material: Carbon Metallic
  • .20 PFC CarbonMetallic© Stops Quieter, Stops Quicker, and Lasts Longer than any other pad. Carbon Metallic© pads guarantee OE wear or better better performance than the OE. PFC CarbonMetallic© unique friction material meets all environmental standards and contains no cancer-causing ceramic fibers, no copper, no antimony, no asbestos, no lead, no cadmium, no chromium, and no potassium titanate. Multi-Layer(tm) technology allows for lower noise, lower dust, and longer pad and rotor life while eliminating a soft or mushy pedal. PFC CarbonMetallic© brake pad formula is the best on the market, providing you with the quietest and best performing everyday disc pads.
Brand: Performance Friction
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Region Position Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Honda Civic Value Package United States Front L 4 Cyl 1.6L 97 1590

Latest Honda Repair and Brake Pads Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

my car is squealing when driving after changing the brake pads.

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From ediway on my car is squealing when driving after changing the brake pads.

hello,

i never changed my brakes so i checked on youtube and tried to do it myself.

i have a honda crv 2000. i changed my brake pads ( i wanted to change the rotor too, but couldn't take out the screw on the rotor, tried hammering the screws, impact screwdriver just like showed in youtube but the screw started to rip apart, so i stop).

therefore i just change the brake pads. the brake pads hat are facing the inside of the tired were harder to take out and to put it. the thing is i don't know if i put them too close to rotor.

so i put the tired back after finishing, and now when driving, my car is squealing/squeaking (not when i brake but when i drive).

what is going on. what did i do wrong? do the the brake pads are touching the rotor?

Response From ediway

i meant the brake pads that are facing the inside of the tire.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Disc brakes self adjust. Not to hurt your feelings but forget YouTube especially for brake repair which you know you screwed up and didn't have tools for. Everyone wants to save a buck and this is the wrong area of car service to mess up.

You can do anything but being shown how by a real tech at least once is worth millions in NOT making mistakes and brakes about take the cake,

T

Response From ediway

i know, but it's cool now.

i went to one of my friend who own a autoshop and he fixed it. he only charge me 50 $, guess not too bad of the deal. he used a burner to heat the screws of the rotors, and that's how he took them out. also my brake pad were too tight, i was very hard to put them in. he had to sand them a little bit.

now no more noise :)

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Great. Glad to hear you sought out some help.

Some parts and brakes no exception just aren't right when new and need some filing or grinding burrs to fit right or get another set and need to know the difference.

That "heat" was probably oxy/acet torches and you need to know how to use them and most folks don't just have those hanging around along with a host of frequently very expensive tools to get you out of trouble.

Brakes are a tough and dangerous thing to learn the hard way,

Tom

05 VW Brake pads.

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From jayceevee24 on 05 VW Brake pads.

2005 Volkswagen Passat All-wheel drive Wagon 2.8 L V-6 70,000 miles. Can I just replace the brake pads ($175 at local mechanic), or do I have to replace the rotors too, as Volkswagen suggests ($1,000 at VW)? Pads are thin.

Response From Hammer Time

It needs to be inspected to answer that question but it's pretty standard for VWs to replace rotors with pads. They are engineered with softer metal for better friction and braking but that causes just as much wear to the rotors as the pads. If they are dished out, no question it needs them.

The prices sound a but excessive though it's possible. I did a BMW today that was $1000.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

>>I did a BMW today that was $1000.<<
Gotta love those European cars!

Response From steve01832

I'm sorry HT that you were subjected to such torture. I think you should get the rest of the week off with pay. I would rather put nitrous on a Kia then work on a beemer.

Steve

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

>>rather put nitrous on a Kia then work on a beemer. << Or deal with their owners.

Response From steve01832

Muffy, Muffy, the beemer is in the shop. I must take the Jaguar to go golfing.

Steve

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Ah, you understand what I meant. LOL. Just wonder what percentage of these 'types' are leased vs. owned?

Response From Hammer Time

Just wonder what percentage of these 'types' are leased vs. owned?

In my part of town, they are just spare cars that are left here all summer so they will have a car to drive when they come down here.

Response From Hammer Time

I would rather put nitrous on a Kia then work on a beemer.

You gotta get used to it in my part of town. Remember, my shop is right on the beach in a resort community. Everything's a Lexus, a Beemer or a Mercedes and the Lexus never breaks............ I hate em.

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

Where I live it's Hondas and Kias baby. Let's soup 'em up, chop 'em down, and listen to the angry swarm of bees due to their tomato soup can size mufflers. LMAO

Steve

Response From steve01832


Muffy, Muffy, the beemer is in the shop. I must take the Jaguar to go golfing.

This has to be said in the Thurston Howell III accent to get the full effect.

Steve

trouble replacing rear brake pads

Showing 4 out of 6 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on trouble replacing rear brake pads

I haven't really worked on cars, but I figured how hard could it be to replace brake pads. Well it's turning out a little harder than I thought. I got the caliper off and replaced the pads, but now I can't get the caliper back on. I know you have to compress the brake cylinder and I tried to do it with a C clamp, but it didn't seem like it was working. I know there are caliper reset tools, but the one I saw at AutoZone was $50 and I'm a poor college student. The other thing is the piston actually came out of the caliper enough to let some brake fluid out. Does that mean the caliper is ruined? My car is a 97 Honda Accord, 2.2L VTEC. Thanks for any help. I'm kind of out of my league here.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You may end up being a poorer college student over this

Are you working with front or rears? Since it leaked - need to know if piston came out too far from extreme wear, someone hit brake pedal while caliper was off, clamp to retract screwed up or what happened?

Brace yourself as this could snowball into lots more than you had in mind for what might look so simple at a glance.

Explain a bit more on just where you are at with this and we'll try to get you out of this. It may mean towing it to a shop as it's possible to need lots more equipment/tools than you may have available to you,

T

Response From Guest

I'm working on the rear brakes and I did hit the brakes with the caliper off. Guess I should've looked this up before I started screwing with it. So do I need to replace to whole caliper now? Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Beck Arnley / Brake Caliper Loaded Single - Rear
Warranty - 3 MO 079-0755 Price: $166.99 Core: $80.00 Total: $246.99 Application: Sedan Note: Driver side

***********************

Arggh! They don't give these away. NEVER HIT THE BRAKE PEDAL WITH BRAKES APART! With that I'll have to suggest tossing that caliper as I can't see what might have been wrecked by the time fluid leaked out.

When calipers are thought to be good in this type they are retracted by putting slight pressure on the piston and turning it at the same time - there are tools for that. Rear caliper like this encorporates the parking brake inside. You'll find trouble just getting the cable + hydraulic line off, back on and bleeding this out.

Don't check now but was parking brake working? Is rotor so good you can use it again? Flex hose in good shape and so on. I know you wanted to just toss in pads and save some bucks but this is BRAKES!
**********

You said at first post you were over your head and I understand the financial troubles. Like any problem it's all about what you do about it. I'm suggesting you get a professional to look at this to see if caliper can be reused or if they should have been replaced along with other items anyway for the job. All this is doable with the tools, some experience and know how.

What is the situation now? Are you in a parking lot on campus, a driveway or at home in garage? Can you ask a local mechanic to go take a look at this for some direct advice? Without any question local shops to a college are dealing with this all the time.......

T



Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

Trust me I'll never do that again. It looks like all the other parts in the system are good. The parking brake did work before this. I used it regularly since my car's a 5 speed. The flex hose looks good too. Is the rubber around the brake piston supposed to be permanently fixed? If so, I definitely screwed up this caliper. Thanks for the help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I can't say for sure if the caliper can be just put back in and used again or not as I really don't know how much it went thru to be able to leak. There's a small ring the seals the fluid and the outer flex boot style ring is to keep dirt and water away from rusting it and hence then can seize up.

Part would be exchanged for a "rebuilt" one and may cost much less - specify the exact car as there were a few different ones and huge price differences. The one picked for the pic was pricey.

Flex hose can be reused if there are no signs of troubles and it worked before. Rear flex hoses don't take the abuse front ones do as they don't also have to bend with steering.

You can get a caliper with pads in place for this more bucks - ask. Generally you do things to both sides when replacing parts like this. Your call on that.

The brake cable will give you a fight to put back on - it may come off ok.

We know now that bleeding the rear brakes will be in order and that could be a problem if bleeders are frozen or break off in trying. New caliper would have a new bleeder.

More: This type caliper if a replacement is needed will come in assorted ways. With certain brackets, pads, items for parking brake or not. Ask and look at replacement first if you continue with this yourself as they want them back or you pay "core" charges till they get usable core parts back to rebuild or that $$ is lost.

Note: I'm not blaming you and just want you and reader to know that it's important to have a good grip on what you are doing with brakes. With a hydraulic failure you lose all braking in that axle - in this case rear brakes wouldn't work but trace amounts of force would be left with intact fronts. That isn't to say you have 1/2 the braking power - you don't!

Hey - there are much more straight forward brakes than this car and I'm sure you've hear of folks getting out of just tossing in pads for cheap. It's still just a fake brake job if that's all that's done. Pros should be VERY reluctant to doing that up to refusing to.

For this round I really think you need some help. Ask if a mechanic will come to the car if that's possible with tools and get it going where it is with what you know about it now AND and honest appraisal of how safe it is without doing more. Good luck. School is expensive enough - I know -- so chaulk this up to "learning" which is what you are there for,

T

Honda Accord Brake problems

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on Honda Accord Brake problems

I have spongy brakes. I have bled brakes, replaced master cylinder. It worked for a while but now the brakes are spongy again. Anyone have similar problems or suggestions

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

What was the original problem?
How long did it work for?
Is the fluid level low now?
Have you checked the system for any leaks,...I.E. lines,calipers,hoses...are the rears drum or disc..if drums,have you pulled them to inspect for leaks,lining wear?.
How are the brake pads/linings?

2004 Honda Accord Front Disc Brake Installation

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on 2004 Honda Accord Front Disc Brake Installation

I'm a student and don't have much cash...so I'm replacing my own brake pads. My question is, what bolts do I need to take off to remove the front brake pads for a 2004 v6 accord? I have seen some instructions that just say take off the main mounting bolts, and then some say I have to remove the brake hose bolt and drain the master cylinder. Thanks for your help!

Response From dmac0923 Top Rated Answer

DO NOT UNSCREW THE HOSE BOLT AND DRAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!

on the inboard (engine side) there will be two caliper to bracket bolts. Unscrew those two bolts and with a wire hanger or a ziptie, secure the caliper......DO NOT LET IT HANG BY THE HOSE!!!!!

now there will be two more bolts holding the bracket onto the spindle. Unscrew them and remove the bracket and pads from the rotor.

Remove the rotor from the hub. it might take some help with a hammer. when its off take the rotor to a machine shop and have it resurfaced.

when you get the rotor back, wipe it down with brake cleaner and install it back onto the hub. replace the brake hardware on the bracket and intall the new pads.

bolt the bracket onto the spindle over the rotor.

slide the caliper back into place and bolt it back up. Pump the brake pedal a few times to set the pads in place.