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2007 GMC Savana 1500 Disc Brake Pad - Rear Bendix - Bendix Semi-Metallic

P311-0EA2ACD    MKD974A  New

In Stock & Ready to Ship
Bendix Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • Abutment Kit Included Disc Pad
  • Bendix Semi-Metallic
Brand: Bendix
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - GMC Savana 1500 Rear

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Uneven brake pad wear

Showing 7 out of 8 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Phishr on Uneven brake pad wear

I own a 1993 Oldsmobile Bravada. I have less then 8,000 miles on my front brakes pads since I replaced them. The outside brake pads have minimal wear, while the inside brake pads wear is very uneven. The front of the pads are twice as thick as the rear of the pads. The rear of the pads are where the low wear sensors are and they're already touching the rotors. I bought the brake pads from Kragen and got the medium grade. I also installed brand new rotors. What is causing the tapered wear on my inside brake pads?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just curious - what did the old brakes look like? Same thing? Does this do this to both sides? I would normally blame this on a frozen caliper if pronounced on one side. The pads may just not fit properly or could be a hardware problem. The grade of brake parts should never mean they can't perform and wear out early or irregularly.

This could get more complicated if it did this to both sides,


Response From Phishr

The previous brake pads wore completely down to the point they were eating into the inside and outside of the rotors on both sides. The pad lining on all 4 pads was completely gone. There was nothing about them that made me think there might be some sort of problem. I did check my records and the last pair of pads lasted a bit over 10,000 miles.
The problem on my current pads is happening on both sides. The wear is identical. I'm wondering if I did something wrong when I installed them. It is a fairly heavy vehicle and I occasionally tow a dirt bike trailer. Would the added weight of the trailer cause this kind of brake wear?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's the heavy wear on the leading edge that has me thinking on this one?? I have known some cars to just eat brakes up fast and one happened to be a 93 Cavalier which may have similar brake design. I knew that Cavalier from near new till way over 200,000 miles and nice owner came in regularly after I did the third front brake job on this car with then maybe 45k on it and she was a bit ticked about them wearing out so fast twice on warranty! With that car I threw everything out - Rotors, calipers, best pads, flex hoses and she would come in every 7,500 miles for a grease, oil, filter, tire rotation when I always would look at brakes and the suckers were half gone - again!!

We just scheduled oil service with new brakes overy other time around for the next 150+K till she got another car. Nice even but fast wear out?? In fairness she was a bit hard on the brakes and this model was the convertible which weighs lots more than the regular car and I'll just chaulk that up to under sized brakes for the car.

The uneven wear makes me think the calipers can cock some with worn pins or the rubber they slide thru allowing this to happen. See if you can rock the caliper much just with your hands and look and it should show where they are not staying in line - caliper prob or the pins??

Do these wheels spin freely or can you feel some brake drag?


Response From Phishr

I checked the calipers and they were not loose at all. The tires seem to spin fairly easily with no uneven drag. I pulled the pads and rotors off tonight and the pads are gooved and cracked. The rotors have minor scorching. I was told that when you install new rotors, they should be turned first because they don't always run true....which I didn't do. Also, I didn't lubricate the caliper pins when I installed them last time, which is another thing I have learned you need to do. Could these be the causes of my problems?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

High quality rotors do not need to be turned and the ones I buy say right on the package if you do any warranty is over.

The cracks in the pads suggests high heat and perhaps those pads can't take it or they are worked too hard. If you don't lube up caliper pins they just don't stay free but that usually shows up as uneven wear or problems on just one side of the vehicle first.

It stinks but I'd start all over with nice new stuff and bleed out all the brakes and get new fluid in there. It's not good to just push back caliper pistons returning the fluid back to the reservoir either,


Response From Phishr

I got the rotors turned and installed premium brake pads. Once I got the pads seated they seemed to work fairly well. I lubricated everything fairly well and will check the brakes after 5,000 miles. Hopefully it was just a lack of lubrication on the calipers. Next front brake change I will plan on bleeding the brakes. Thanks for all of the help!

Response From Guest

Found this on the back pages. Kragen and Checker were hooked up. Now they're all Advance APs.
They must be selling cheap brake pads, made cheap.
I stopped trusting checker on anything electric along time ago. Won't trust them anymore on brake products either now, since I've had experience with uneven brake wear with their pads too. Advance APs too. I used to like Advance but I guess Zone is the way to go now.

my car is squealing when driving after changing the brake pads.

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From ediway on my car is squealing when driving after changing the brake pads.


i never changed my brakes so i checked on youtube and tried to do it myself.

i have a honda crv 2000. i changed my brake pads ( i wanted to change the rotor too, but couldn't take out the screw on the rotor, tried hammering the screws, impact screwdriver just like showed in youtube but the screw started to rip apart, so i stop).

therefore i just change the brake pads. the brake pads hat are facing the inside of the tired were harder to take out and to put it. the thing is i don't know if i put them too close to rotor.

so i put the tired back after finishing, and now when driving, my car is squealing/squeaking (not when i brake but when i drive).

what is going on. what did i do wrong? do the the brake pads are touching the rotor?

Response From ediway Top Rated Answer

i meant the brake pads that are facing the inside of the tire.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Disc brakes self adjust. Not to hurt your feelings but forget YouTube especially for brake repair which you know you screwed up and didn't have tools for. Everyone wants to save a buck and this is the wrong area of car service to mess up.

You can do anything but being shown how by a real tech at least once is worth millions in NOT making mistakes and brakes about take the cake,


Response From ediway

i know, but it's cool now.

i went to one of my friend who own a autoshop and he fixed it. he only charge me 50 $, guess not too bad of the deal. he used a burner to heat the screws of the rotors, and that's how he took them out. also my brake pad were too tight, i was very hard to put them in. he had to sand them a little bit.

now no more noise :)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Great. Glad to hear you sought out some help.

Some parts and brakes no exception just aren't right when new and need some filing or grinding burrs to fit right or get another set and need to know the difference.

That "heat" was probably oxy/acet torches and you need to know how to use them and most folks don't just have those hanging around along with a host of frequently very expensive tools to get you out of trouble.

Brakes are a tough and dangerous thing to learn the hard way,


brake pads

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From TVCamMan on brake pads

I have a 2008 Chevy HHR, which are the better brake pads ceramic or semi-metallic.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Ceramic is the better pad, less noise, less dust but there are good and bad grades of ceramic also.

Brake Pads

Showing 3 out of 11 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From Larry T on Brake Pads

I have a 2006 Nissan Pathfinder. The Front Brake pads have 8mm lining left and the rear have 6 mm. What I need to know is what the original new thickness was. In other words how long before they need to be replaced?

Response From Discretesignals

Standard thickness (new) 10.0 mm (0.394 inch)

Repair limit thickness 2.0 mm (0.079 inch)


Standard thickness (new) 11.0 mm (0.433 inch)

Repair limit thickness 2.0 mm (0.079 inch)

Response From Larry T


Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Your welcome!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just want to add that when even still legal when they get thin the feel isn't as good and can be subject to surprise failure. My suggestion is to be a bit early with this stuff and think the techs here would agree with that,


Response From Larry T

The Pathfinder has 53000 miles on it. At this rate, it would seem that I should start to look at replacement at about 90,000. Would you agree?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You have to inspect them no matter what as the type of use they get will be the factor on lining life not just miles alone. If all checks and it's time it's a good time to rotate tires while doing this,


Response From Larry T

Thanks. I agree that inspection is the only true measure. I always have them inspected when changing oil. I was just trying to get a feel for the life cycle.

Boy, (I mean wow) this is a great website! Thanks again for the advice.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Appreciate your kindness Larry T.

If unsaid this is a free site and regular techs are all volunteers but anyone can post ideas. The pay dirt is really just knowing we have helped total strangers usually with competent help/suggestions with the info at hand,


Response From Discretesignals

90,000 miles would be ideal, but you would have to factor in things like if you get a sticking caliper or slide pin or a brake hose turns into a check valve. Lots of variables to consider on pad life. Always a good idea to check your brake after an oil change or tire rotation as Tom suggested to be sure they are happy.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

One more to add: If when inspecting them both sides of an axle should look and be worn the same. It's a strong clue if one worn more than other side that a real problem is happening. No games with brakes. As a tech here once said, "Going is optional but stopping is not!"