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Beck Arnley
1995 BMW M3 Disc Brake Pad - Rear Beck Arnley

P311-5D01B1F    087-1363  New

Qty:
$28.19
Beck Arnley Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • SEMI-METALLIC; May require pad wear sensor-check catalog
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1995 - BMW M3 Rear
Beck Arnley
1989 BMW 535i Disc Brake Pad - Rear Beck Arnley

P311-5D01B1F    087-1363  New

Qty:
$28.19
Beck Arnley Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • SEMI-METALLIC; Original Equipment Type Pad Material; May require pad wear sensor-check catalog
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1989 - BMW 535i Rear
Monroe
1999 BMW 740iL Disc Brake Pad - Front Monroe - Monroe Brakes Total Solution Semi-Metallic Brake Pads

P311-03C7C48    DX681  New

34111165227 , 34216761250 , 34211164581 , 34111163307 , 34211163324

Qty:
$58.93
Monroe Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • OE Recommended; Includes Wire Wear Sensor
  • Monroe Brakes Total Solution Semi-Metallic Brake Pads
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - BMW 740iL Front

Latest Bmw Repair and Brake Pads Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

05 VW Brake pads.

Showing 3 out of 11 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From jayceevee24 on 05 VW Brake pads.

2005 Volkswagen Passat All-wheel drive Wagon 2.8 L V-6 70,000 miles. Can I just replace the brake pads ($175 at local mechanic), or do I have to replace the rotors too, as Volkswagen suggests ($1,000 at VW)? Pads are thin.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

It needs to be inspected to answer that question but it's pretty standard for VWs to replace rotors with pads. They are engineered with softer metal for better friction and braking but that causes just as much wear to the rotors as the pads. If they are dished out, no question it needs them.

The prices sound a but excessive though it's possible. I did a BMW today that was $1000.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

>>I did a BMW today that was $1000.<<
Gotta love those European cars!

Response From steve01832

I'm sorry HT that you were subjected to such torture. I think you should get the rest of the week off with pay. I would rather put nitrous on a Kia then work on a beemer.

Steve

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

>>rather put nitrous on a Kia then work on a beemer. << Or deal with their owners.

Response From steve01832

Muffy, Muffy, the beemer is in the shop. I must take the Jaguar to go golfing.

Steve

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Ah, you understand what I meant. LOL. Just wonder what percentage of these 'types' are leased vs. owned?

Response From Hammer Time

Just wonder what percentage of these 'types' are leased vs. owned?

In my part of town, they are just spare cars that are left here all summer so they will have a car to drive when they come down here.

Response From Hammer Time

I would rather put nitrous on a Kia then work on a beemer.

You gotta get used to it in my part of town. Remember, my shop is right on the beach in a resort community. Everything's a Lexus, a Beemer or a Mercedes and the Lexus never breaks............ I hate em.

Response From steve01832

Where I live it's Hondas and Kias baby. Let's soup 'em up, chop 'em down, and listen to the angry swarm of bees due to their tomato soup can size mufflers. LMAO

Steve

Response From steve01832


Muffy, Muffy, the beemer is in the shop. I must take the Jaguar to go golfing.

This has to be said in the Thurston Howell III accent to get the full effect.

Steve

2007 Honda Civic 1.8L Car Pulls and Steering Wheel Vibrates

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From NaturalMystic on 2007 Honda Civic 1.8L Car Pulls and Steering Wheel Vibrates

2007 Honda Civic 1.8L with 77,000 miles is having steering problems with vibration felt in the steering wheel on highway driving around 70 mph. The car slightly pulls to the right mostly but sometimes after I make a left it pulls to the left, which I find odd.

I had it in the shop to have tires balanced and rotated, but these problems started AFTER that visit. That shop lost my confidence so I went to another shop for the alignment. Afterwards I was still having the pull problem but not as severe.

When I took it back to the 2nd shop several weeks later for a tune up and to check on the steering they tell me their tech did not notice any pull during his test drive.

Car was running better, however I felt some pull on my drive home. Now I am back to square 1.

Does this sound like an overly complicated or time consuming job for a shop to undertake? Is a steering problem something I need to go to a dealer to get fixed?

Thanks for your time!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Guess: Rack and pinion has a problem and tight spot,

T

Response From NaturalMystic

I went to the chain shop that I had initially taken it for an oil change and tire rotation. Apparently they did not rotate the tires the first time, even though the receipt I have says 'rotate and balance' on it. They told me they "only balance the tires if the customer asks for it" What?!?! God only knows what kind of oil they put it in it before. It will be a good year if I never have to go back into that place again this year.

I will be getting another oil change done soon somewhere else as the engine seems to be running a little rough but the pulling is gone and the steering wheel vibration @ 70mph is now gone.

I still feel a very slight residual sort of tire vibration at high speed occasionally on the highway.

Having been driving around with tires out of balance for ~ 1 month could you advise on any part of the car that may need to be checked due to the chronic vibrations that were happening, and could this residual vibration be due to the tires being warped now or something?

Thanks again for all of your help Tom.

Response From Seraph


I went to the chain shop that I had initially taken it for an oil change and tire rotation. Apparently they did not rotate the tires the first time, even though the receipt I have says 'rotate and balance' on it. They told me they "only balance the tires if the customer asks for it" What?!?! God only knows what kind of oil they put it in it before. It will be a good year if I never have to go back into that place again this year.

I will be getting another oil change done soon somewhere else as the engine seems to be running a little rough but the pulling is gone and the steering wheel vibration @ 70mph is now gone.

I still feel a very slight residual sort of tire vibration at high speed occasionally on the highway.

Having been driving around with tires out of balance for ~ 1 month could you advise on any part of the car that may need to be checked due to the chronic vibrations that were happening, and could this residual vibration be due to the tires being warped now or something?

Thanks again for all of your help Tom.



This is a common problem often brought on by waiting too long to have your tires rotated. Rotating tires every other oil changes helps with this. Unless your an aggressive driver or have a son/daughter that drives aggressive. I often mark on the inside of tires which was where upon a tire rotation in case a customer comes back to me for vibration. In any case I put the tires back where they were or offer the customer new tires. Always keep your tires properly inflated and rotated. Take a good look at your tires for wear patterns in case of alignment issues. Keep my tips in mine, till then just drive your car until the tires wear and the vibration will go away.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Tire care: Yes you can tell a lot just looking at them and feeling them. Done with this biz now ages ago but even at more than twice the price of "chain" super duper places that buy oil by the drum cheaper than anything I could do alone MAY not be as interested in you or your car as an independent shop for even oil changes and tire rotation. I didn't make $$ as I spent an hour doing routine work like that.

Find a tire lower pressure than others then it's leaking somewhere! Same with finding a fluid low - find out why. I wrote underhood what was done both miles and date with tire marker that can be removed if a person wishes but info for me when a customer returns. While rotating tires take look at brakes and write down % worn. N/C for that as I would get the job if ready or suggest next oil change it will be time for XYZ or if needed schedule it for sooner depending on what found.

Any shop is only as good as the person working on your car. I find more incentive with owner run independents as their name is on their work and want you back for routine or troubles that may happen along the way.

If a tire has been a trouble for a long time it might not correct with rotating depending on severity.

Take a tape measure with car on level surface and measure the height. May have a spring that sets lower than other side which effects the show completely.

You said steering wheel vibrates so anything that spins with wheels is on the maybe list. That mention that it's "occasional" makes me think of brakes more than tire so you check everything. A hot brake will cause vibration but takes some miles to get hot and most will pull and when brakes are applied the cooler one will grab better near always.

Get to know your mechanic or if many in a shop and happy with work request that person again. Trust me, when a tech in the dungeons get requested specifically they take notice!

T

Response From NaturalMystic

Well I think this problem can be filed away as solved.
After the tires were competently balanced the car was running better, but the engine was still running a bit rough.

I took it in for another oil change as I had had a fuel induction service done when I last had it in for an alignment recheck (before the balancing), and I learned after the fact that if you have this fuel service that you should get another oil change within 100 miles.

Well after the oil change the car runs like a champ! The vibration has been decreasing since the balancing as now I think the tires are wearing evenly.

My theory is that they used the wrong oil in the first oil change bc my engine was running roughly immediately after that (along w/the tire vibrations). Subsequently I got the alignment done and rechecked and finally after the proper balance the shaking diminished, but the engine was still running rough. The fuel tune up helped but I could tell the engine was still not running right, and it did not seem to be where it should be until this 2nd oil change.

All in all it has been a learning experience for me. Stick with one shop that you trust, even if the other one has a good deal going on tires its not worth the time or aggravation to save a few $$$ in the short run.

Response From Seraph Top Rated Answer


Well I think this problem can be filed away as solved.
After the tires were competently balanced the car was running better, but the engine was still running a bit rough.

I took it in for another oil change as I had had a fuel induction service done when I last had it in for an alignment recheck (before the balancing), and I learned after the fact that if you have this fuel service that you should get another oil change within 100 miles.

Well after the oil change the car runs like a champ! The vibration has been decreasing since the balancing as now I think the tires are wearing evenly.

My theory is that they used the wrong oil in the first oil change bc my engine was running roughly immediately after that (along w/the tire vibrations). Subsequently I got the alignment done and rechecked and finally after the proper balance the shaking diminished, but the engine was still running rough. The fuel tune up helped but I could tell the engine was still not running right, and it did not seem to be where it should be until this 2nd oil change.

All in all it has been a learning experience for me. Stick with one shop that you trust, even if the other one has a good deal going on tires its not worth the time or aggravation to save a few $$$ in the short run.



Yes like he said above get to know and trust your tech. I use to pull customs to the garage and show them exactly what was wrong. I have worked with a lot of techs and they have done a lot of shady work. When a garage doesnt have the right oil for your car. There are a lot of techs that will just put what ever they have in your car. Sometimes this will have no effect on most cars, possibly your gas mileage. But for some engines its just down right a bad idea. It doesnt take effect instantly but putting the wrong oil in some engine will cause crank bearings/ cam bearing to wear because of lack of oil. Some oils are just too thick to get where its needed in some engines. BMW's for example all use Full Synthetic. Its because Full Syn is thinner then regular oil and can get into the journals and assure proper lubrication. Those things really start to make a ticking noise after a while. I had a buddy with a BMW that would always put regular 10w40. He no longer has that car lol.

My preferred brand of tires are Michelin. Great tires doesnt transfer much noise. Smooth ride last long.
My preferred brake pads are Ceramic they are quiet and easier on the rotors. Good luck in finding your tech.