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Best Selling Genuine Audi Brake Pads

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Beck Arnley, Monroe
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Beck Arnley
2000 Audi TT Quattro Disc Brake Pad - Front Beck Arnley

P311-1AD5A76    087-1596  New

Qty:
$33.37
Beck Arnley Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • SEMI-METALLIC; Original Equipment Type Pad Material
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Audi TT Quattro Front
Beck Arnley
1983 Audi Quattro Disc Brake Pad - Front Beck Arnley

P311-066AF6D    082-1188  New

Qty:
$15.36
Beck Arnley Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • PREMIUM ORGANIC; Thru Chassis Serial #85D900359; Original Equipment Type Pad Material
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1983 - Audi Quattro Front
Beck Arnley
1980 Audi 5000 Disc Brake Pad - Front 5 Cyl 2.2L Beck Arnley

P311-066AF6D    082-1188  New

Qty:
$15.36
Beck Arnley Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • PREMIUM ORGANIC; Original Equipment Type Pad Material
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Position Block Engine CID CC
1980 - Audi 5000 Turbocharged Front L 5 Cyl 2.2L - 2144
Beck Arnley
1999 Audi A4 Quattro Disc Brake Pad - Front Beck Arnley

P311-1AD5A76    087-1596  New

Qty:
$33.37
Beck Arnley Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • SEMI-METALLIC; 288mm Rotor Diameter; Thru Chassis #8D-X-199999
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Audi A4 Quattro Front
Beck Arnley
2002 Audi TT Quattro Disc Brake Pad - Front Beck Arnley

P311-1AD5A76    087-1596  New

Qty:
$33.37
Beck Arnley Disc Brake Pad  Front
  • SEMI-METALLIC; Original Equipment Type Pad Material; Except Electronic Wear Sensor
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Audi TT Quattro Front
Monroe
1989 Audi 80 Quattro Disc Brake Pad - Rear Monroe - Monroe Brakes Total Solution Semi-Metallic Brake Pads

P311-578B0FA    DX228  New

4D0698451B , 4D0698151J

Qty:
$33.75
Monroe Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • OE Recommended
  • Monroe Brakes Total Solution Semi-Metallic Brake Pads
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1989 - Audi 80 Quattro Rear
Monroe
1999 Audi A8 Quattro Disc Brake Pad - Rear Monroe - Monroe Brakes Total Solution Semi-Metallic Brake Pads

P311-578B0FA    DX228  New

4D0698451B , 4D0698151J

Qty:
$33.75
Monroe Disc Brake Pad  Rear
  • To 7/99; OE Recommended
  • Monroe Brakes Total Solution Semi-Metallic Brake Pads
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Monroe
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
1999 - Audi A8 Quattro Base Rear

Latest Audi Repair and Brake Pads Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

My Brakes

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From weirdobeff on My Brakes

So, I have this 1980 Audi 4000. The brakes recently started acting up. Like, when I was stopped at a light I would have to push down so far to stop but then it would get farther and farther as I was stopped. Then they stopped stopping. Its like...I have to push REALLY hard to make the car stop. All the way to the floor. All the pressure seems to be gone.
We drained the brakes and my brake pads are fine, as is my brake fluid.

Has this happened to anybody else? and any suggestions on what else to check?

Response From Double J

Hi

Has the entire system been checked for any leaks?
Definitely sounds like a hydraulic problem.
Why were the brakes "drained"?...I assume you mean bled.....was it for this problem?
CAn you pump up the pedal ?
What I mean is,if there is no leaks at all and the linings are ok,try pumping up the brake pedal and see if it firms up,if so,let off and reapply,it will probably start to go lower again...
Sounds like the master cylinder is faulty...has the symptoms of that....from what you describe..

CAUTION: DON'T CONTINUE TO DRIVE IT IN THIS CONDITION...IT IS UNSAFE ...

Response From weirdobeff Top Rated Answer

Yeah, I totally meant bled! :)
I don't know about the leak..i'll have to get that all checked out.
But if I pump the brakes they firm up for a few seconds. However, they go right
back down. Thanks for the caution. I was kind of hoping for more of a "Oh! All you gotta do is kick the car and it'll work!" but, thank you! I'll get all that checked out. :)

Response From dave284

Sorry for the lazy way of info........tough day

Response From weirdobeff

Hey No prob, Bob! Any info is good info. Lazy or not. :D

Response From Double J

Yep

Sounds like a bad master cylinder. But get it checked to verify no other leaks...

"So all you have to do is replace the master cylinder, bleed the system and THEN KICK THE CAR...LOL "

Let us know...

JIm

Response From dave284

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/04/f9/b4/0900823d8004f9b4/repairInfoPages.htm Try some of these test in this link as concern about the booster

bad axel/bearing - 2000 Caddilac STS - nyc potholes?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From jfish1000 on bad axel/bearing - 2000 Caddilac STS - nyc potholes?

I drive a 2000 Caddilac STS which I inherited from my grandfather.

It doesn't seem fit to ride the roads of Brooklyn and NYC - with all the bad roads and potholes we have.

I have new tires on the car, Kumho, Sears installed. wheels and rest of car original, and low mileage - only about 40K.

Don't drive it much, 2-3K per year, but on bad NYC roads.

I now have twice had to replace on the left front tire the bearings and axel, as well as both rotors and brake pads.

The shop claims it's from potholes, or hitting a sidewalk curb, which I can't recall doing either, but the car does ride on pretty rough pavement a lot of the time.

Is this something that can be caused from driving on rough pavement?

Is it crazy to get the exact same repair needed on the exact same wheel, in a 2 year period when I"ve driving only about 3K miles in total on it?

Is there a type of car better for bad NYC roads? Like a small SUV, maybe an Audi Q5 or an Acura MDX? Toyota RAV4?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I've never heard of a pothole damaging brakes or an axle or even a wheel bearing. I think your getting the New york fast shuffle.

Advice: Is mechanic ripping me (A Lady) off ?

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Advice: Is mechanic ripping me (A Lady) off ?

1998 Buick Lesabre
engine size: ? big
Mileage: 92,000

Three years in a row the mechanic has told me that my rotors are rusty and need replaced. This time it has not been 12,000 miles (he told me that) and he could replace the brake pads under warranty, but shouldn't the rotors be under warranty too? And How do I know he is doing what he says and not ripping me off? He said i need two bulbs too but I do not see where...total 180.00 !!! What do you think? help me please.

Response From TommyD

you are being screwed, as are most people that get their brakes done by a shop. Rotors should last 50-75,000 with NO problems, unless you are driving like a bat out of hell on rough terrain or theu salt water. Dont ever get rotors turned down, why?? Because brand new rotors cost $35 a piece for 99% of vehicles, and the shop will charge you $25 each to turn down. Rust? Every car has rusty rotors. You should find a mechanic who cabn do your brake work off duty. The average car brakes cost $20-$30, for a complete set!!!!!! It takes maybe 20 minutes to replace. But a shop will charge you 200 to $300 for new brakes. Its a complete rip off. Tell your mechanic to put the new brakes on and you will live with your rotors. They will seat the new brakes, trust me. Unless your rotors are so pitted that they look like they are ridged, you will be fine.

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer


you are being screwed, as are most people that get their brakes done by a shop. Rotors should last 50-75,000 with NO problems, unless you are driving like a bat out of hell on rough terrain or theu salt water. Dont ever get rotors turned down, why?? Because brand new rotors cost $35 a piece for 99% of vehicles, and the shop will charge you $25 each to turn down. Rust? Every car has rusty rotors. You should find a mechanic who cabn do your brake work off duty. The average car brakes cost $20-$30, for a complete set!!!!!! It takes maybe 20 minutes to replace. But a shop will charge you 200 to $300 for new brakes. Its a complete rip off. Tell your mechanic to put the new brakes on and you will live with your rotors. They will seat the new brakes, trust me. Unless your rotors are so pitted that they look like they are ridged, you will be fine.



Tommy you need to get your facts straight before you start pulling numbers outta you azz & talking a bunch of crap that aint true!!!!!


There are different grade pads & rotors for every car and the numbers you are quoting don't come close to any of them. Obviously you are some backyarder that throws the cheapest junk he can find on cars with out any worries about noise, vibration or squeeks...

20 minutes isn't even close enough if your are going to DO THE JOB RIGHT!!!

Let see you do a rear brk job for that price & time on an 05 Audi A6 ..... Hell you probably don't even realize you need a factory scan tool to retract the pistons into the calipers.....

If you what to come here for help or to help others is fine...... But if your going to go around here spewing untrue BS, then your days are numbered..........

Response From Hammer Time

AMEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Response From Guest

When I have someone else work on my car (it is very rare) I always tell them I want the removed parts. They have always written "customer wants removed/old parts." on the work order. I have always gotten them and it gives a sense of having not been ripped off.

Response From Hammer Time

When I have someone else work on my car (it is very rare) I always tell them I want the removed parts. They have always written "customer wants removed/old parts." on the work order. I have always gotten them and it gives a sense of having not been ripped off.

If you really have that little trust in the people you have chosen to work on your car, then that is fine. Just be sure to tell them that you want the parts saved before they start the job. Don't expect them to go dumpster diving after. I always save the old parts until the car is picked up anyway and like the customer to see for themselves.

Response From Hammer Time

you are being screwed, as are most people that get their brakes done by a shop. Rotors should last 50-75,000 with NO problems, unless you are driving like a bat out of hell on rough terrain or theu salt water. Dont ever get rotors turned down, why?? Because brand new rotors cost $35 a piece for 99% of vehicles, and the shop will charge you $25 each to turn down. Rust? Every car has rusty rotors. You should find a mechanic who cabn do your brake work off duty. The average car brakes cost $20-$30, for a complete set!!!!!! It takes maybe 20 minutes to replace. But a shop will charge you 200 to $300 for new brakes. Its a complete rip off. Tell your mechanic to put the new brakes on and you will live with your rotors. They will seat the new brakes, trust me. Unless your rotors are so pitted that they look like they are ridged, you will be fine.

It's pretty obvious that your just spouting off a lot of hatred for mechanics when you really have no clue what your talking about. Take any disc brake vehicle and park it in a condo parking lot that is facing the ocean and leave it parked for a few months, maybe 4, and the rotors will be destroyed. It is a fact. If you have ever tried to cut one of these rust pitted rotors on a lathe, you would already know that it will take the carbide bits out before you even finish one rotor and when your done, you will be below spec. Your not going to buy any quality brake pads for $20 to $30 either. Maybe the junk your in the habit of using but not quality pads.

Please get your facts correct before spouting off about mechanics

Response From Sidom

When in doubt it's always best to get a 2nd opinion...... Miscommunication is the biggest problem alot of the times which leads people to think they are being taken when it's not the case......

Rust for the most part isn't a reason to replace a rotor, they have minium machine to & discard specs. Once a rotor gets below those specs then they need to be replaced.. Now if a rotor is rusted so bad it can't be turned out that would be different.

There are bulbs all over the car some are obvious, some aren't, the biggest missed ones I see are the plate lights (Usually requires bending way over to see), marker lights & the 3rd brk light.

It's simple.... Just nicely ask the man/lady. Why can't my rotors be turned? what specs are they at now? which bulbs are out? Personally I have no problem answering those questions & showing people. I would rather you ask and see for yourself than go off not completely understanding and then trying to fill in the gaps yourself without the correct information......usually leads to a flawed theory of the situation..

Response From Hammer Time

I want to point out that there are exceptions to these rules when the car is parked on the ocean. I own a shop on the ocean and I see rotors ruined by the salt air every day and I'm here to tell you it can happen in 5 months or less. I see it all the time and no, they cannot be resurfaced as the pitting will go very deep. I had one customer in a Mercedes that spent $1000 to replace all the pads and rotors, used the car for one trip to Ft Lauderdale and then parked it at his condo on the ocean and went back to New York. He came back 6 months later and all the rotors were destroyed again and I mean destroyed.

Response From Hammer Time

Do you live on the ocean?