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Dorman
1995 Mazda Protege Brake Master Cylinder Dorman

P311-1DB1E09    New

Qty:
$141.66
Dorman Brake Master Cylinder
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
1995 - Mazda Protege
Seiken
1995 Mazda Protege Brake Master Cylinder Seiken

P311-1D271F3    New

Qty:
$181.36
Seiken Brake Master Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Seiken
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Vehicle
1995 - Mazda Protege
PBR
1999 Mazda Protege Brake Master Cylinder PBR

P311-01C717C    New

Qty:
$25.14
PBR Brake Master Cylinder
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1999 - Mazda Protege
Dorman
2006 Mazda 5 Brake Master Cylinder Dorman

P311-4CC65FA    New

Qty:
$161.58
Dorman Brake Master Cylinder
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2006 - Mazda 5
Dorman
1981 Mazda RX-7 Brake Master Cylinder Dorman

P311-34B88F9    New

Qty:
$86.90
Dorman Brake Master Cylinder
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
1981 - Mazda RX-7
Dorman
1999 Mazda 626 Brake Master Cylinder Dorman

P311-22F90A5    New

Qty:
$128.53
Dorman Brake Master Cylinder
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
1999 - Mazda 626
Dorman
2000 Mazda 626 Brake Master Cylinder Dorman

P311-547E8E8    New

Qty:
$120.29
Dorman Brake Master Cylinder
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2000 - Mazda 626
PBR
1990 Mazda MX-6 Brake Master Cylinder PBR

P311-2FAC577    New

Qty:
$78.32
PBR Brake Master Cylinder
  • New
Brand: PBR
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Vehicle
1990 - Mazda MX-6
Seiken
1992 Mazda 929 Brake Master Cylinder Seiken

P311-37E627A    New

Qty:
$356.62
Seiken Brake Master Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Seiken
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Vehicle
1992 - Mazda 929
PBR
1995 Mazda MPV Brake Master Cylinder PBR

P311-160F7B3    New

Qty:
$116.46
PBR Brake Master Cylinder
Brand: PBR
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Vehicle
1995 - Mazda MPV
Dorman
1996 Mazda MPV Brake Master Cylinder Dorman

P311-3F90C0F    New

Qty:
$130.16
Dorman Brake Master Cylinder
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
1996 - Mazda MPV
Nabtesco
2000 Mazda MPV Brake Master Cylinder Nabtesco

P311-385083D    New

Qty:
$149.89
Nabtesco Brake Master Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Nabtesco
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Vehicle
2000 - Mazda MPV
Seiken
2002 Mazda MPV Brake Master Cylinder Seiken

P311-26888A3    New

Qty:
$206.18
Seiken Brake Master Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Seiken
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Vehicle
2002 - Mazda MPV
Dorman
1990 Mazda Miata Brake Master Cylinder Dorman

P311-5F337D9    New

Qty:
$98.08
Dorman Brake Master Cylinder
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
1990 - Mazda Miata
Dorman
1992 Mazda Miata Brake Master Cylinder Dorman

P311-296E27D    New

Qty:
$116.84
Dorman Brake Master Cylinder
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
1992 - Mazda Miata
Seiken
1992 Mazda Miata Brake Master Cylinder Seiken

P311-4FFE5DC    New

Qty:
$257.90
Seiken Brake Master Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • New
Brand: Seiken
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Mazda Miata
Seiken
1995 Mazda Millenia Brake Master Cylinder Seiken

P311-5B45566    New

Qty:
$168.66
Seiken Brake Master Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Seiken
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Mazda Millenia
Seiken
1999 Mazda Millenia Brake Master Cylinder Seiken

P311-5B45566    New

Qty:
$168.66
Seiken Brake Master Cylinder
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Chas: -518070, Production: -05/31/1999
Brand: Seiken
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Vehicle
1999 - Mazda Millenia
Cardone
2007 Mazda CX-9 Brake Master Cylinder Cardone

P311-246B259    New

Qty:
$40.00 $86.76
Cardone Brake Master Cylinder
  • Master Cylinder and Reservoir
Brand: Cardone
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Vehicle
2007 - Mazda CX-9
Cardone
2014 Mazda CX-9 Brake Master Cylinder Cardone

P311-246B259    New

Qty:
$40.00 $86.76
Cardone Brake Master Cylinder
Brand: Cardone
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Mazda CX-9

Latest Mazda Repair and Brake Master Cylinder Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

SOLVED: 1996 Mazda Miata with shifting problem

Showing 3 out of 11 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From brian10101 on SOLVED: 1996 Mazda Miata with shifting problem

Engine size: 1.8L (I think)
Mileage: about 180k
Manual transmission

My car now gets into a state/mood/frame of mind in which it is very difficult to shift. I've taken it to three repair shops, one of which still has it, and each has been unable to reproduce the problem. (That by itself is surprising because it was a little difficult to shift even before it started acting up.)

I've found that when I drive it for roughly 30 minutes, then let it sit for 10 to 20 minutes, and then drive it again, it shows this problem. There are likely other ways to reproduce the problem; this way I described is just how I've driven it. In this state, I can shift it out of gear okay, but then shifting it out of neutral and into the next gear is difficult and sometimes impossible. I sometimes have to turn the engine off to get it into gear.

In this state, the car will also sometimes drive even with the clutch pedal fully depressed. The clutch pedal also seems to have less far to travel before reaching the floorboard than it did before the car started acting up. (I think this short travel distance is not dependent on the car's state.)

The last time I drove the car, it created a beautiful, fragrant smoking effect from under the hood and I had it towed. The most recent mechanic said that the heater hoses need to be replaced. I imagine this is related but don't know that it's causal.

Response From Discretesignals

In this state, the car will also sometimes drive even with the clutch pedal fully depressed.

That right there is a clutch hydraulic issue. I would suspect the clutch master is failing as long as you don't see any external leaks in the system. Our shop has seen intermittent clutch masters and brake master cylinders go to the floor just like yours.
.

Response From brian10101

Thanks for your help. Is there something the shop can do to reproduce the problem if driving it for 30 minutes or so is out of the question?

Response From Discretesignals

Nothing they can really do till they actually can duplicate it. Honestly if something like that was in our shop I would give the customer the option of changing the clutch master even if the problem can't be duplicated and there are no other visual issues.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'll second the opinion for you that a good shop will take your clear description of the problem and with your understanding and agreement just do it. It's seriously not helping your transmission so whatever it costs (bet not as bad as you may think but no real choice either) is worth it. You'll know right away when it would do it to YOU that it's really fixed or not - high bet fixed.


Good luck,


T

Response From brian10101

Thank you for your help. I consider this question answered.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

One more - sorry. YOU are taking the risk if YOU spell out the diagnosis but YOU are harming it also driving it like that so don't blame the shop for the one in a million that wasn't it but it will clear up the diagnosis at worst.


Hey - Consider paying full shop wages just to drive it around to witness it which would be nice but doubt free so that's towards it also.


Please come back and say it's fixed just for archives of it,


Tom

Response From brian10101

Thanks for your answer, Tom.

Response From brian10101

"went away" - so that it is no longer difficult to shift. Why it went away, I don't know.

Response From brian10101

The shifting problem is gone. A few days after it was fixed, it became difficult again, though not as difficult as before, but that went away.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Hydraulic clutch and even brake master cylinders can do that and correct for a while. If you didn't replace anything it will probably come back again. Almost too bad as the issue is lurking but now you wouldn't know which part is at fault if it works when testing.


Other is if air involved it might have burped back up and out. Now hard to know or really called "fixed" if you didn't find something,


T

Bled clutch. Now no clutch pressure at all. DESPERATE TO SOLVE ISSUE!

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From brc19761 on Bled clutch. Now no clutch pressure at all. DESPERATE TO SOLVE ISSUE!

Hi, my Dad has a very well cared for 2001 Mazda B3000 5sp manual tranny 2wd truck (same truck as a Ford Ranger). The transmission started making a noise a few weeks ago. We drained the fluid and put in fresh, did not solve the problem. The tranny and clutch worked fine just made a horrible noise every now and then. We knew it needed a new clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. We had already priced the parts. My Dad has been working 6-7 days a week. We were just waiting for him to get a weekend off to tackle the problem.

Someone told him at work that before tearing into the tranny try and bleed the clutch and see if it helped. Well a couple of days ago my Dad just opened the valve on the slave cylinder and pumped the clutch a few times to try and bleed it. Since then he has no clutch watsoever. There is no clutch pressure. We have pumped and bled, pumped and bled. I have searched the internet over to try and find out what we could be doing wrong. Tried all of the remedies found on the net. But still no clutch.

Is there anything we are doing wrong? Or is there any tricks or procedures we could try? This is his only way to work. All he did was release the slave cylinder bleeder on the tranny. No new parts or nothing. He had perfect clutch pedal before he did this. We are so baffled. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

brc

Response From valvebody

Hi there !

It depends on the noise you hear and when you hear it because if its there all the time that mean its inside the trans but if you hear it just while you push the pedal or when you need to shift that means your clutch cylinder or pressure plat or throw out bearing has issues. So maybe you need to discribe more about the noise and when it starts .


Also I think there is air inside the oil line, maybe when you or your dad was pumping the pedal to bleed the cylinder there was air coming back. so try to do it again.

let him pump the pedal while your hand on the cylinder plug and after he pumps for 5 or 6 time tell him to push the pedal all the way down and hold it , then open the plug and let the air come out then close the plug and tell him to pump again and do the same operation until he feels more pressure on the pedal and dont forget to add fluid before it runs out . if it still bad maybe you will need to rebuild the clutch cylinder or buy new one.

Good luck buddy

Response From brc19761

Thanks so much for the reply. We are not really concerned about the noise at this point. It is not much of an issue. The problem that we can't solve is getting the clutch back working. We have done the procedure you mentioned about pumping the clutch and opening the valve and filling the resevior to get the air out. We have pumped and bled so much this weekend that we would have take turns b/c our legs would give out. We went through three full bottles of brake fluid in the process.

We just don't know what to do.

Thanks again,

brc

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

brc19761; I agree. Sounds like a hydraulic problem... Just like a brake master cylinder, if you are 'foot' bleeding, it is very easy to go past the normal pedal travel and rupture the cup in the cylinder. Clutch master cylinders and slave cylinders should always be replaced as a set. If money is tight, I'd go with the master, first.
Check up under the dash, where the pushrod comes out through the firewall. Pull back the rubber boot and see if any moisture is present. If so, no-brainer. Replace the master cylinder. I prefer to gravity bleed hydraulic systems, but doesn't always work. But, with a new master, you should be able to 'foot' bleed without any further issues.

Response From valvebody

Well my friend i think you got a check teh salve and master cylinder because if the seals inside are worn out that means they dont hold pressure, So you can just change it or rebuild it .

The same thing happend to me 5 years ago and drove me crazy i was pumping for hours and the pedal still the same thing untill i changed the master cylinder and everything went well.

Good luck buddy