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Dorman
2011 Ram 3500 Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-28072B7    New

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Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
Brand: Dorman
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Vehicle
2011 - Ram 3500
Dorman
2011 Ram 3500 Brake Hydraulic Hose Dorman

P311-1EB000B    New

Qty:
$31.90
Dorman Brake Hydraulic Hose
Brand: Dorman
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
2011 - Ram 3500
Mopar
2011 Ram 2500 Brake Hydraulic Hose Mopar

P311-0A7A432    New

Qty:
$17.19
Mopar Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Ram 2500
Mopar
2012 Ram 3500 Brake Hydraulic Hose Mopar

P311-0A7A432    New

Qty:
$17.19
Mopar Brake Hydraulic Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • w/o Electronic Stability Control
Brand: Mopar
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Ram 3500

Latest Ram Repair and Brake Hose Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

01 Ram brakes overheating

Showing 8 out of 10 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 01 Ram brakes overheating

2001 Dodge Ram 1500 with 158,000 miles, the front left brake has been overheating. I have replaced the pads ,rotor, caliper and brake hose. Im still having problems especially during stop and go driving. When they get hot they start slipping. someone told me maybe the proportioning valve is bad. I would like to know if it could be anything else before I replace it.

Response From Hammer Time

Did you replace all those parts on BOTH sides of the truck?

Are you getting any pulling either on or off the brakes?

Are the slide pins moving freely?

Response From brianarendts Top Rated Answer

I only replaced those parts on the drivers side, it was pulling to the right before i replaced the caliper. now it is just overheating just on the drivers side, almost to the point of brake failure. I need some help on this one. I use this truck for work and family. I also live and work in the city so it is crucial that I get this fixed as soon as possible. If anyone has any idea of what could be wrong I would like to hear your feedback.


thank you

Response From Hammer Time

You can't expect equal braking when only changing parts on one side of the truck. I'm not saying that's your problem but it definitely wasn't repaired correctly.

Response From Guest

why was it overhetin before I replaced everything

Response From Sidom

On that system I would probably be looking for signs of contamination (swollen or disformed rubber gasket on the master cap, brk fluid that looked thick or just not right) if any type of petroleum product got in there, that wouldn't be good.

If that checked out I would bleed the whole system, make sure you are getting fluid to the rears. The frts do the highest percentage of the brking but if the rears stop that would definately start overheating the frts............

Response From Guest

I replaced the master cylinder and did a full flush, now both fronts
are getting very hot. maybe proporting valve could be tripped? how do
I fix? is that the problem

Response From Hammer Time

It sounds like you may have had a contamination problem. Merely flushing won't resolve that. Every piece of rubber will swell and have to be replaced.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

To add: Sometimes brake will pull to better side after one gets hot/too hot called brake fade. As Hammer said it wasn't done right and if both weren't done or non brake fluid ever used it would cause problems especially after bleeding if only bleeding one side if that's what happened.

When someone mistakes an oil to top off master cylinder's reservoir the oil should stay on top. If there was any question you quickly remove all fluid from reservoir.

Now that both are hot is suggests to me the master cylinder has an issue or allowing fluid return OR once I installed a new master that was defective at returning fluid - fine cool and at 6-8 miles brakes applied themselves from expansion of fluid from using brakes or even engine heat near lines. Drove the car myself using parking brake and it did it to me without touching regular brakes.

Rubber will not tolerate oils in a brake systems ever TMK,

T

Response From Hammer Time

I wouldn't even begin to guess knowing the brakes were only done on one side of the truck. The timing alone points to an installation error but the problem could have been misdiagnosed from the beginning.

New caliper leaks at screw from brake hose.

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From reelfisher10 on New caliper leaks at screw from brake hose.

Just got a remanufactured brake caliper on my 01 dodge ram 1500 4x4 and when I hook it up to the brake line it leaks when I pump the breaks. Leaks right underneath that square nut thing that has the screw go through it which holds the break line to the caliper. Is there suppose to be some kind of special seal there because there wasn't one there when I took it off.

Response From Double J

It has to have a copper washer on both sides of "that square nut thing "..
It had to have one when you took it off or else it wouldve been leaking...It either fell off or its stuck on the square nut part of the hose or stuck to the old caliper.
They are NOT reuseable...get new ones....Make sure you put one on each side of the square nut thing...also make sure you removed the old ones.

The reman caliper shouldve came with them....They Usually come with all the necessary hardware including the copper washers ,but not the banjo bolt.(Screw as you call it)

Response From reelfisher10

And the two bolts that go through the caliper to the caliper bracket, get flat and locking washers?

Response From MarineGrunt

I've personally never seen lock washers on the caliper pins on any vehicle I've ever done a brake job to but I think I remember seeing somewhere that some vehicles such as Toyota use lock washers. I could be wrong though. I've never seen them on any GM vehicle. If yours didn't have them when you took them off I wouldn't be putting any back on. Try and find a diagram on the brake system on Dodge's part website and see what it shows. I'm sure the mechanics here can give you a definite answer though.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

These should be standard fare out there. Solid copper and the seal is the grooves which will impregnate/squish the copper some both seal and lock it. That's why they say never re-use them. Never saw one intentionally to be also a lock washer but some method may be out there for that.

Back a few posts - they should have come with them! Pic may not show but just like this if it does...........



T

2008 Ram 1500 brake issue

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From ths49286 on 2008 Ram 1500 brake issue

Was just driving my truck when I noticed it was quickly slowing down when I took my foot off the gas pedal. Next I starting smelling the brakes, luckily I was driving in town and pulled into my driveway. Got out and looked at the front passenger side tire and saw the rotor was red hot and smoke coming up from behind the tire. Brake fluid was as it should be. Any ideas on this problem?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Probably a frozen caliper or bad brake hose. The normal thing to do is replace both caliper and both front flex hoses.