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ATE Coated
1989 Volkswagen Vanagon Brake Drum - Rear ATE Coated - ATE Original Brake Drum

P311-0D4B1F9    480046  New

0 986 477 033 , 14.5495.10 , 14062 , 251609615 , 329131B , 329131J , 3824 , 600.1952.00 , 600.1952.20 , 63906 , 8282007170 , 8DT 355 301-641 , 9377 , 94008300 , 98100 0083 0 1 , BF184 , DB4053

In Stock & Ready to Ship
ATE Coated Brake Drum  Rear
  • ATE Original Drum
  • ATE Original Brake Drum
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Hole Diameter: 5
    • Construction: Full Cast
    • Inside Diameter: 252.00
    • Material: Metal
    • Rust Resistant Coating: Yes
  • Expert product and process engineering. ATE brake parts for the aftermarket are made to a higher standard than conventional replacements. ATE is the brand of Continental Automotive Systems, one of the largest original equipment brake system manufacturers in the world. Years of experience and insight gained from serving every major vehicle producer are invested in every ATE brand product. ATE offers a comprehensive portfolio of premium brake products. We offer more than the usual and are always a step ahead in innovative technology and first quality materials.
Brand: ATE Coated
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1989 - Volkswagen Vanagon Rear
1988 Volkswagen Vanagon Brake Drum - Rear Bendix - Bendix Brake Drum

P311-21B6D3E    PDR0446  New

In Stock & Ready to Ship
Bendix Brake Drum  Rear
  • BENDIX Brake Drum
  • Bendix Brake Drum
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1: Safe Stopping Is Built-in With High Tensile Strength Castings
    • Feature 2: Bendix Quality Advantage Is Engineered-in With Consistent Stopping And Long Life, Stop After Stop
    • Feature 3: 100% Copper-free Vehicle Specific Formulas
    • Feature 4: Bendix Castings Are Able To Withstand The Continuous Heat-up And Cool-down Demands Of Daily Driving
    • Feature 5: Bendix Has Facilities In North America, Europe And Asia Controlling Engineering, Design, Machining, And Casting Production
  • Bendix brake drums are designed to work with brake shoes to bring a moving vehicle to a safe, smooth stop.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Bendix
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1988 - Volkswagen Vanagon Rear
1988 Volkswagen Vanagon Brake Drum - Rear Brembo - Premium OE Equivalent Brake Drum

P311-54E6398    14.5495.10  New

080-2063 , 14 5495 10 , 21061 , 251 609 615 , 251609615 , 251609615BR , 3824 , 480046 , 600.1952.00 , 6150B , 9377 , BD60605

In Stock & Ready to Ship
Brembo Brake Drum  Rear
  • Premium OE Equivalent Brake Drum
  • Product Attributes:
    • Centering Diameter (MM): 65
    • Material: Grey Cast Iron
  • Brembo developed replacement that meets or exceeds OEM specifications.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Brembo
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
1988 - Volkswagen Vanagon Campmobile Rear
Beck Arnley
1988 Volkswagen Vanagon Brake Drum - Rear Beck Arnley

P311-2CC32B2    083-3094  New

In Stock & Ready to Ship
Beck Arnley Brake Drum  Rear
  • Premium
  • Product Attributes:
    • BOLT PATTERN MM: 112
    • DRUM HEIGHT MM: 77.7
    • DRUM HUB O.D. MM: 273.8
    • DRUM I.D. MM: 252
    • DRUM MAXIMUM I.D. MM: 253
    • DRUM O.D. MM: 285.5
    • Lug Quantity: 5
    • LUG STUD HOLE I.D. MM: 15.5
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1988 - Volkswagen Vanagon Rear

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

e150 brake drum

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From Guest on e150 brake drum

i tried to get rear left brake drum off, wont come off.i tried to tap with rubber malet, still no good.e150 ford van.

Response From way2old

Find the adjustment hole and release the adjuster wheel to free the shoes from tne drum also. These are also bad about developing a rust ridge on the outer edge of rim and holds it quite tightly.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Good one way2old. I wasn't thinking of the ring so much as the damn rust we have where I live. Yes if drum is loose and won't come off you need to adjust them to make the clearance. New drum or turned is mandated, T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Put some penetrating oil on the hub to drum area. If real nasty file it down - hub that is. When nobody is looking beat the snots out of outer edges and back and fourth. You could kill it and need a new drum. Rubber is best for the project but it may take a hand sledge -- this crap is common and stinks! The drums with threaded holes are different and would require a different procedure but I don't think Ford vans went there yet??

2 cents if that of a smear of grease will stop that problem forever! T

Removing Brake Drum

Showing 5 out of 9 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From kingjim9 on Removing Brake Drum

Hey guys, does anybody have any tips for backing off the brake shoes to take the brake drum off? The vehicle here is an '06 Ford Taurus SE 3.0L engine

I removed the rubber plug to get access to the star wheel, but I guess I'm having a little difficulty being able to turn it to back off the shoes.

Any tips will be appreciated!



Response From Hammer Time

Yes, the self adjuster is only designed to move in one direction. You'll have to slip a small screwdriver alongside your brake spoon to push the self adjuster off the star wheel so you can turn it.

Response From kingjim9

do you have any tips for doing that? ha, I'm sure it's one of those things that once you have some experience you can do it pretty easy by feeling around but since they don't give you the most room to get your tools in there or to see what your doing for that matter it's a little tricky.

I got it to the point where i can almost get the whole thing off, it's just the last little bit gets caught up over the last part of the brake shoes.

Response From Sidom

Check your pm

Response From kingjim9

Hey guys, sorry it took so long getting back to you, I've been pretty busy this past week. I managed to get them off and replace the shoes. Man was it a PITA!!! Once I got one of them off i was able to see how it worked which did help but still between the strut, the brake line, and trying to fit two screwdrivers in the slot on the backing plate made it pretty challenging.

The drums did have a pretty big lip on the outside of it, I ended up getting them machined at the local shop to clean it off.

Thanks for all of your help, espically Sidom with sending me that video for that one tool!

Do you guys have any suggesstions for preventing this in the future? I do live in PA so it gets inspected annunally which the drums (should) be removed every time, but I was just wondering if theres something else I could do to help keep that lip off for future drum removal.

Thanks Again!,


Response From Sidom

Glad to hear you the those PITAs off..... I hate'em as well...

Like I mentioned before, it's just a design issue. The shoes wear into the drum.

While it's not a requirement to turn drums everytime shoes are installed, on these I would definitely recommend it because of the lip issue. If you had someone just slap shoes on it before without turning, then the old lip stays & it just gets worse.....

What you could do would be periodically check your brks, if you notice a lip forming and there is still room left you could have the drums turned again.
Me....I'm too cheap. Between having to buy a new drum too early due to turning or fighting the shoes to get the drum off when it's time for shoes......... I'll take the fight...... I have more time than money......

Response From kingjim9 Top Rated Answer

yeah since it's a design issue i'll just leave it till the next time... fortunately brake shoes last longer than pads, so i'll just leave it to the guys at the inspection shop every year to get the drums on and off, and when it gets close to the pass / fail cutoff thickness again...let the battle begin again!! haha!

Again thanks for the help / advice!

Response From Hammer Time

The reason you had the problem is because you let it wear into the drums too far. Those drums should have been replaced, not turned if they had a lip like that.

Response From Sidom

If you can get one drum off then just check out the lever and practice on that side.

If not look thru the hole with a light, you'll see the lever sitting on the star wheel. It just pushes straight out to get off the wheel and turn the wheel in the opposite direction.... Before you start turn the wheel a few clicks to see which way it adjusts so you'll know the way to go to back it off.........

I have a long thin screwdriver that I bent, this way it stays out of the way of what ever you are using to turn the wheel with....

Rear wheel leaking fluid into brake drum

Showing 3 out of 8 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Rear wheel leaking fluid into brake drum

Ford E-150 half ton van
180,000 Mi.

Hello everyone. A few years ago when having my tires changed the guy told me that I had a leak in the drivers side brake drum. I'm pretty sure he said something like "axle seal leak" or "wheel hub leak".

Does anyone know exactly what this is called? I think I can fix it myself, but I don't know what parts to buy. I have a Chilton's guide for the van, but it only covers wheel bearing replacement, not axle seal replacement. Is this something I can do at home with normal tools?

Response From way2old

If it is an axle seal, yes you can do it at home. We will need to know what type axle you have. As the styles have different repair procedures. If it is the standard Ford rear end, you need to jack up the vehicle, place on jackstands, remove wheels and drums, place pan under rear end, remove rear end cover, rotate rear end gear until you see a small 5/16 head bolt, remove the bolt, remove the thru pin, push axle in to the center, remove the "C" clip on the axle, remove axle. Use the axle as a toolo to remove the old seal. Then clean the seal housing, install new seal squarely, install axle, install clip, install thru pin and lock bolt, clean rear end cover and either have a new gasket or good quality silicone sealer, install rear end cover, fill with proper rear-end grease. WHeeeeeeewwww! Took almost as long to type this as it does to do the repair. Only forseeable problem is the little lick bolt is apt to break. Be really careful on that part. Good luck.

Response From dan777

This reply is for way2old...I have a 1995 half ton e150 with the 5.8L also. I recently tried to pull the rear axles to replace the bearings and just as you said, the little lock bolt broke! I tried drilling for a bolt extractor, but had no luck. Are there any other options to get that bolt out?

Response From Hammer Time

This thread is over 2 years old. If you need help with something, please start a new question of your own.

Response From Guest

I think Ive done a bad job in describing my problem. It sound like you explained how to replace the seals at the differential itself, my problem is closer to the wheel assembly. Aren't there seals in the wheel area that prevent axle grease from leaking into the brake drum housing? If so, those are the seals I'm taking about. The entire inside of the brake drum is soaked in oil, shoes included. Here are some pictures, I hope they help.

Response From way2old

Good pictures. The axle seal is at the end of the axle. I saw other pictures you posted on other sites and the seal is what is leaking. You have to remove the axle to get to the seals. The seals go around the axle at the point you pointed out on the other pictures. Once you follow the instructions, and remove the axle, you will see the seal. Please do not be confused by the other pictures you are trying to compare your vehicle to. These are 2 completely different rear end set ups.

Response From Guest

Lol, caught me posting things on other sites eh? Yeah, the guy on there offering me advice has surely cleared up a few things for me. I didn't understand that the axle had to be messed with inside the differential area. You gotta to all that just to change out a seal huh? What about wheel bearings. Do I have to pull the axle just to swap those out?

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

Yes you do. The axle bearings are just behind the axle seal. Good luck on the repair.

Rubbing brake drum

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From ronnieg63 on Rubbing brake drum

Hey everyone. I have a 1995 2wd chevy 1500 pu, 5.0, with north of 160k miles on evrything but the engine, which was new in the crate some 12k miles ago. While trying to diagnose a scratchy noise coming from the right rear (suspected a brake issue), I found that a small portion of the inner lip on the brake drum is rubbing the back plate. I feel like it may be a wheel bearing issue, but don't know how to find out other than tearing it down...I'm an electrician, not a mechanic...but I do as much as I can. Remember, we are in a recession. Any advice is appreciated..

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Ronnie; The bearing would have to be really bad to allow the drum to make contact with the backing plate. Don't think I've ever seen it and I've seen some REALLY bad bearings! I have seen rust buildup on the drums/backing plates that will cause what you are describing. Remove the brake drum and closely inspect it, the backing plate, brake hold-down springs, ect. Also, keep in mind that sounds can travel; It may sound like it's coming from one area, but may be just transmitting the noise elsewhere. Not that this is the case, here, just a thought.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ronnie - along with Loren's advice I suggest routinely taking drums off for inspection of both wear and condition of hardware. Clean out drum by dropping it squarely down on hard surface to get all the rust and dust out which causes problems. Clean up that mess and dispose carefully as it's nasty stuff. Wipe good shoes with a paper towel soaked in brake cleaner then treat that as a nasty towel also.

Bearing?? It would have to have some serious troubles to allow that much motion! If so I would be near certain you'd hear that just driving along,


Response From ronnieg63

Thanks guys. The fact that it is probably not a bearing is great news. A brake job I can handle. Without actually having torn into the brake assmbly, I can tell you that the return spring looks extremely stressed, possibly weakened, and the shoes seem glazed over, but not worn, almost as if they were not in play for some time. The drums give the same indication, almost new looking wear wise. While the above checks were done with only the rr off the ground, I couldn't actually check how the brake operated, so I will have to get the entire rearend in the air to further evaluate it. One more thing I noticed. There was a light coating of some kind of fluid on things, but not bad as if the cykinder was bad or anything. I have been told not to try the brake with the drum off, so I didn't check it to see if it works. But this may be a case of not self adjusting maybe? Mechanic friend told me the oily light coating can be a result of the shoes not making good contact, or being stuck in a position that JUST makes contact, causing the pad (shoe ) to overheat and breakdown epoxy in the makeup, leaving the film...I am thinking that a breakjob is the best way to go further on this. Got brand new brakes up front, may as well do the same on the back. Any other thoughts are appreciated. Glad I found this place.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Ronnie; The only thing that I don't agree with is the evidence of some type of moisture on the linings. If there is any moisture (be it brake fluid or axle grease) it needs to be investigated and repaired. I have never seen or heard of the 'epoxy' theory, and your brake linings should be riveted, anyway. The glazing of the linings is indicative of heat. A leaky wheel cylinder or an axle seal can cause this. You don't sound like the type to skimp, so buy NEW premium quality brake linings. Riveted only (not bonded). If you need assistance on brake bleeding or axle seal replacement, don't hesitate to ask.
We'll help the best we can. Have a great weekend.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thoughts: Ya - do a whole brake job including hardware and wheel cylinders. Make certain the parking brake is properly functional, releases fully and the connecting bar is slightly loose indicating park cable has retracted. With a helper watch the cable pull in and fully extend - they can be the problem spot or bent hardware. I've seen intermittent wheel cylinders too that can stay on.

More: larger (one with more lining) goes towards the REAR! I've seen that done backwards too.

Your call on machining drums or new ones. Rust can be an issue also.

Some lining material can drag or make a noise if wet like after a hard rain but usually that quits with first stop.

Make sure brakes are adjusted properly before ever touching the parking brake cable adjustment which isn't always needed to adjust! Good luck,