Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Brake Drum

Choose a Year for your Honda 's Brake Drum

  • 2016
  • 2015
  • 2014
  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2011
  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1987
  • 1986
  • 1985
  • 1984
  • 1983
  • 1982
  • 1981
  • 1980
  • 1979
  • 1978
  • 1977
  • 1976
  • 1975
  • 1974
  • 1973
Show More Years

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Beck Arnley
    Beck Arnley
  • Brembo
    Brembo
  • Centric
    Centric
  • Genuine
    Genuine
  • PBR
    PBR
  • Pronto
    Pronto

Best Selling Genuine Honda Brake Drums

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including PBR, Brembo, Genuine, Centric, Pronto
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Honda Replacement Brake Drum Parts

We stock Brake Drum parts for most Honda models, including Accord, CRV, CRX, Civic, Civic del Sol, Fit, Insight, Odyssey, Passport, Prelude.

PBR
1982 Honda Accord Brake Drum PBR

P311-434D56C    W0133-1711025  New

Qty:
$28.01
PBR Brake Drum
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1982 - Honda Accord
Brembo
1990 Honda CRX Brake Drum Brembo

P311-10E9A31    W0133-1623270  New

Qty:
$44.46
Brembo Brake Drum
  • Rear
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Honda CRX
Brembo
2003 Honda Accord Brake Drum Brembo

P311-3AB3969    W0133-1711818  New

Qty:
$53.92
Brembo Brake Drum
  • Rear
Brand: Brembo
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Honda Accord
Brembo
1986 Honda Accord Brake Drum Brembo

P311-29EA5A9    W0133-1624781  New

Qty:
$41.53
Brembo Brake Drum
  • Rear
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Honda Accord
Brembo
1989 Honda Civic Brake Drum Brembo

P311-4538BA5    W0133-1619914  New

Qty:
$47.02
Brembo Brake Drum
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Honda Civic
Brembo
1990 Honda Accord Brake Drum Brembo

P311-0B72E1D    W0133-1620405  New

Qty:
$44.51
Brembo Brake Drum
  • Rear
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Honda Accord
Genuine
1999 Honda Odyssey Brake Drum Genuine

P311-5CBED8C    W0133-1713801  New

Qty:
$134.17
Genuine Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Rear
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Honda Odyssey
Brembo
1994 Honda Passport Brake Drum Brembo

P311-482BEC5    W0133-1621463  New

Qty:
$33.24
Brembo Brake Drum
  • Production: 11/1993-
  • Rear
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Honda Passport
Brembo
1995 Honda Passport Brake Drum Brembo

P311-482BEC5    W0133-1621463  New

Qty:
$33.24
Brembo Brake Drum
  • Rear
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Honda Passport
Centric
1993 Honda Civic Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-01AE45D    123.40009  New

Qty:
$18.46
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position Submodel Transmission
1993 - Honda Civic Coupe Rear DX Automatic
Centric
1998 Honda Accord Brake Drum - Rear 4 Cyl 2.3L Centric

P311-308313E    123.40011  New

Qty:
$23.51
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1998 - Honda Accord L 2254 - Rear
Centric
1991 Honda Accord Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-308313E    123.40011  New

Qty:
$23.51
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
1991 - Honda Accord Wagon Rear
Pronto
1986 Honda Accord Brake Drum - Rear Pronto

P311-04A3AD3    BD3569  New

Qty:
$13.58
Pronto Brake Drum  Rear
  • Floating
  • Product Attributes:
    • Lug: 4
    • Outer Diameter: 239 Mm
    • Overall Height: 59 Mm
    • Pattern: 100 Mm
    • ProdWeight: 9.16
    • Type: Floating
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1986 - Honda Accord Rear
Pronto
1990 Honda Accord Brake Drum - Rear Pronto

P311-1EF800B    BD3528  New

Qty:
$17.57
Pronto Brake Drum  Rear
  • Floating
  • Product Attributes:
    • Lug: 4
    • Outer Diameter: 268.5 Mm
    • Overall Height: 60 Mm
    • Pattern: 114.3 Mm
    • ProdWeight: 11.66
    • Type: Floating
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1990 - Honda Accord Rear
Centric
2005 Honda Accord Brake Drum - Rear 4 Cyl 2.4L Centric

P311-4321962    123.40012  New

Qty:
$24.50
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position Submodel
2005 - Honda Accord L 2354 - Rear LX
Centric
2002 Honda Civic Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-3274CF0    123.40014  New

Qty:
$20.69
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position Submodel
2002 - Honda Civic Sedan Rear LX
Pronto
1997 Honda CR-V Brake Drum - Rear Pronto

P311-16FF91C    BD35067  New

Qty:
$18.37
Pronto Brake Drum  Rear
  • Floating
  • Product Attributes:
    • Lug: 5
    • Outer Diameter: 268 Mm
    • Overall Height: 60.8 Mm
    • Pattern: 114.3 Mm
    • ProdWeight: 12.45
    • Type: Floating
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Honda CR-V Rear
Pronto
2001 Honda Civic Brake Drum - Rear Pronto

P311-4CAE357    BD35094  New

Qty:
$15.54
Pronto Brake Drum  Rear
  • Floating
  • Product Attributes:
    • Lug: 4
    • Outer Diameter: 246 Mm
    • Overall Height: 63.5 Mm
    • Pattern: 100 Mm
    • ProdWeight: 9.8
    • Type: Floating
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Honda Civic Rear
Centric
1999 Honda Odyssey Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-0FFA35D    123.40013  New

Qty:
$42.67
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Honda Odyssey Rear
Pronto
1999 Honda Odyssey Brake Drum - Rear Pronto

P311-459DDDF    BD35079  New

Qty:
$31.35
Pronto Brake Drum  Rear
  • Floating
  • Product Attributes:
    • Lug: 5
    • Outer Diameter: 313.6 Mm
    • Overall Height: 77.3 Mm
    • Pattern: 114.3 Mm
    • ProdWeight: 20.59
    • Type: Floating
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Honda Odyssey Rear

Latest Honda Repair and Brake Drum Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2006 Honda Accord with vibrating brakes/front end

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From tom4416 on 2006 Honda Accord with vibrating brakes/front end

06 Accord Value Package sedan, front disk, rear drums, 2.4L, automatic. At about 65K miles, steering wheel would vibrate and you could feel a shudder when braking from speeds above 50mph. Changes pads and rotors (front, rears are shoes), problem persists. Checked runout on new rotors - none. Cleaned and lubed caliper slider pins, flushed and bled brake fluid, tires are new, alignment is fresh. Car doesn't pull when braking, just this shudder and vibration until the car slows below about 40mph, seems to get worse the hotter the brakes are. I've checked front end components, everything appears tight, no movement in the wheels like a bad bearing. Car now has 77K on it. It's been to the dealer twice, but they only go out and drive it on 35mph surface streets for five minutes and come back with no trouble found reports even though I've asked them to please take it out on the Interstate and, when safe, to brake fairly hard (or to ride with me and I'll demonstrate it) but they claim it should do it at all speeds if there is a problem.

I'm at a loss where to go next. I'm kind of down to thinking it might be a bad caliper that is binding up the piston but I've got no uneven pad wear and didn't on the old pads with 70K miles. Any help is appreciated and thanks so much for this great forum!

Response From Sidom

On cars with rear drums, if I suspect the vibration is coming from the rear, I'll take the car out, get it hot and when coming up to a stop carefully use the park brk only to stop. If I get a vibration, I know the drums are warped.. You are basically taking the frt out of the picture doing this.

Like HT says, it rare but it does happen...........

Response From Hammer Time

I've never had much luck with that test. It seems the brake shoes just flex too much and you never feel the problem. I found if I remove the rear wheel, put the lugs back on the drum only and rotate it by hand, you will feel the high spots when it rotates.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Suggestion: Don't go nuts but in a safe place try hold the release for parking brake and use is as that is using only the rear brakes. If it does it then you know it's the rear,

T

Ps: If you are not comfortable trying that DON'T!

Response From tom4416

I'll try stopping it with the just the rear brakes today, I've got some empty rural roads where it won't happen in traffic. I would think if it was the rears, I would feel something in the pedal but maybe not. Does anyone still turn drums if that's what it turns out to be? Thanks for the quick replies.

Response From DanD

With you saying that the problem gets worse, the warmer the brakes get and the problem wasn’t resolved by replacing the rotors. I’m thinking you may have a front or rear hub that is warping when heated and in turn warping the rotor or drum. It may just be that a rotor or drum is warping on its own when heated but with the issue not changing after the fronts were replaced, not likely? Regardless of which, measuring run-out of the rotors or machining the rotors & drums will not do anything; they’re already (relatively speaking) cold by the time you get to them and will measure or machine fine.
You’ll have to determine whether its front or rear and the only way I can think of (due to the heat issue); is as Sidom & Tom has said.
Use some common sense and keep your thumb held down on the release and you’ll be fine doing this. You may need to pull the brake on fairly hard & quickly; just short of the rear’s locking; that’s to duplicate the pressures required; so be ready for it.
Yes sometimes road testing a problem vehicle; we have to act like stunt drivers; but you know the feel of your car and should be able to anticipate when a lock-up is going to occur?
By your description of the steering wheel vibrating; I think you’ll find the problem will be in the front; usually with a rear warp-age issue; you’ll feel the vibration in the seat of your paints; but with that being said there’s nothing written in stone, in this trade.
Why I’m thinking hub is because; I just went through this with a Focus that another shop gave up on; this is after they did a four wheel brake job and couldn’t get rid of the vibration. It took a lot of trial & error to find out it was the left front hub; twisting the brand new rotor. In this case the hub didn’t have excessive run-out; but the mating surface between the rotor and hub was cupped or puckered between two of the wheel studs. Measuring the run-out of the rotor with the wheel off; just the wheel nuts to hold the rotor, it measured fine. Put the wheel on, which has more mating surface against the rotor and hub and it twisted the rotor. Someone somewhere probably used an impact gun to tighten the wheels on and bent the hub?

Dan.

Response From tom4416

I tried stopping with the just the rear brakes, no vibration transmitted anywhere so I think that at least isolates it to the front system. Dan, you talked about measuring the runout on the hub and I haven't done that, just on the rotor mated to the hub with the lug nuts. I could see where heat would make the problem rear its ugly head. How did you finally isolate it to a particular wheel? Don't laugh, but I've ever thought about some way to mount a video camera aiming at the front wheels one at a time to "see" if I notice any movement while braking but doubt it is enough to see with the naked eye as the vibration only moves the steering wheel ~1/4 inch in either direction but very rapidly. I also don't get any pulsing in the brake pedal which I've felt before on cars with warped rotors. Off hand, no one has torqued the lug nuts except me and Costco (and I watched them carefully, refusing to allow them to bring the impact anywhere near the car when installing the new tires). I do all my own work on the car, rotate the tires myself and always torque with an accurate torque wrench to the factory specifications and in the proper order. Doesn't mean a hub just hasn't gone bad as things can fail.

Am I safe in assuming that if I can't feel any play when grabbing the wheel up on a lift and applying lots of lateral and vertical force that the bearings are okay? I would assume I'd hear some roaring while driving if it was in the bearings or some vibration all the time or at least while going around corners. The car is my wife's daily driver and so don't want her driving it if it's unsafe - annoying is fine, unsafe is not. The dealer also said they "inspected" the bearings although I know for a fact they didn't go down to the bearings because the nut has a retaining system that is marked from the factory and that mark has never been disturbed. Their inspection was probably very similar to mine. When I had the alignment done a couple of weeks ago, asked the technician (an old time and very reliable front end technician) to check all the suspension components and he pronounced everything as tight as new.

I'm reaching the limits of my technical capabilities and will probably have to try and find a local shop that can try and track it all down.

Response From DanD

Like I was saying; with just the wheel nuts on to hold the rotor, there was no excessive run-out on the rotor. But when we bolted the wheel to the hub and then measured run-out, we found it to be over the spec. At first thinking it was the wheel; we tried rotated it with another and had the same result. Replaced the hub and all was good.
With a ¼ inch deflection of the steering wheel; you would think this would be easy to find? You can’t pick out what side; usually with that much distortion you would hear a kind of warbling sound while this was happening?

Dan.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just to add about rotors even new: I've seen new super cheap Chinese rotors be no good. If poor metal they may warp when warm and test fine when cold. If poorly recycled metal and were the cheap rotors it's a maybe?? It's happened to me when a custom would request the cheapest way out,

T

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

90% of the time when that happens, it's cause by distorted front rotors. Brake drums rarely cause that problem but it is possible. I would have the read drums resurfaced and see what happens. If your a real aggressive driver, you may have only resolved half of the problem with the new rotors.

2008 Honda Accord Coupe Shimmy/Vibration

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From edzo61 on 2008 Honda Accord Coupe Shimmy/Vibration

I took delivery of a 2008 Honda Accord Coupe V-6 in April 2008. From day one I have experienced a very annoying steering wheel/driveline/body vibration-shimmy. I have had the car to the dealer 4 times and the following repairs were attempted:

-4 wheel spin balance (1)
-4 wheel Hunter Road Force Balance (2)
-Wheel & Tire swaps (20-- 3 new tires, 2 new rims
-Four wheel alignment


The car still vibrates intermittently while going in and out of VCM mode (Variable Cylinder Management) at speeds primarily between 55-70 MPH. Lately with temps above 90 degrees, the problem is prevalent at any speed between 30-80. My car has only 2K miles on it and is no fun at all to drive. I've seen other posts about this in some other tech forums and some with the problem have had theirs corrected by wheel balancing (Hunter Road Force) others have had many balances and wheel & tires swaps to no avail.

I want to contact Honda Corporate but if I make an appt. with DSM and he/she deems the condition normal, "inherent characteristic, or doesn't agree that it's happening. That's it. I won't have a second chance and my next recourse would be lemon law which is quite difficult to win with tire/shimmy problems.

any help would be appreciated

thanks

Response From Guest

I have the 2008 ex-L 4door w/ Navi. and have the same problem. Shimmy or vibration on the highway usually around 70 mph. The dealer can not find the problem. Checked all the wheels, rebalanced and all that.. Still there. My service advisor did mention that there are several cars doing the same thing.

Response From Guest

I'm taking my 2008 Honda Civic in for the THIRD time tomorrow for a similar vibration/shutter that I feel when trying to keep a steady speed of 50mph - a very common speed limit where I live. They've balanced the tires twice now and that has not done it. Has anyone found the answer to this yet?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

If this is deemed normal for the car I'd go postal!

Ok - seems like wheels, tires and alignment have been rules out. What's missing in the balance is the brake rotors! Ah ha! Those suckers spin at the rate of the wheels and must be balanced just like the wheels and tires except that's done when the parts are made new. I don't know of a place that does those after manufacturing.

This historically has been more of a problem with monster cars with heavy brake drums and rotors. I have directly noticed this when replacing rotors when requested to use the cheap stuff which are clearly not balanced as there are marks, weights, drilled holes etc., used to balace them and few would come thru new without some adjustment. Machine when made could have been wrong or that step omitted.

I've tried here to find a way to check balance of these parts with no luck. The old way was to balance the wheel dynamically with it on the car which I haven't seen since Nixon was in office but that was routine for the fussy.

It stinks to have to fight for this but go for it right to the top if necessary. Let us know how you make out as I find that unacceptable the way it is,

T