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    Centric
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    PBR
  • Pronto
    Pronto
  • Wagner Brakes
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Best Selling Genuine Ford Brake Drums

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Brembo, Motorcraft, PBR, Centric, Pronto
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Ford Replacement Brake Drum Parts
Brembo
1984 Ford Bronco II Brake Drum Brembo

P311-0B18C84    W0133-1698695  New

Qty:
$12.88
Brembo Brake Drum
  • Rear
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1984 - Ford Bronco II
Motorcraft
1992 Ford E-250 Econoline Brake Drum Motorcraft

P311-491D267    W0133-1850063  New

Qty:
$155.17
Motorcraft Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • NLA 03/2014
Brand: Motorcraft
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Ford E-250 Econoline
PBR
1986 Ford Taurus Brake Drum PBR

P311-2EFE240    W0133-1849642  New

Qty:
$42.64
PBR Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Drum Only
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Ford Taurus
PBR
1993 Ford Taurus Brake Drum PBR

P311-2EFE240    W0133-1849642  New

Qty:
$42.64
PBR Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Ford Taurus
Brembo
1996 Ford Thunderbird Brake Drum Brembo

P311-17AD674    W0133-1807594  New

Qty:
$23.31
Brembo Brake Drum
  • Drum Only
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Ford Thunderbird
Brembo
1986 Ford Taurus Brake Drum Brembo

P311-17AD674    W0133-1807594  New

Qty:
$23.31
Brembo Brake Drum
  • Drum Only
  • Drum Only
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Ford Taurus
Motorcraft
1979 Ford Mustang Brake Drum Motorcraft

P311-39BB273    W0133-1849625  New

Qty:
$80.97
Motorcraft Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • NLA -3/14
  • Rear
Brand: Motorcraft
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1979 - Ford Mustang
Motorcraft
1989 Ford Thunderbird Brake Drum Motorcraft

P311-39BB273    W0133-1849625  New

Qty:
$80.97
Motorcraft Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with 9 x 1 3/4 Inch Brk
  • NLA -3/14
  • Rear
Brand: Motorcraft
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Ford Thunderbird
Brembo
2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac Brake Drum Brembo

P311-2CCD87E    W0133-1849945  New

Qty:
$43.92
Brembo Brake Drum
  • Rear
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Ford Explorer Sport Trac
Motorcraft
2010 Ford Transit Connect Brake Drum Motorcraft

P311-2B74CFD    W0133-1911246  New

Qty:
$76.27
Motorcraft Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Ford Transit Connect
Centric
2001 Ford Taurus Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-54A6B63    123.61049  New

Qty:
$25.85
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Ford Taurus Rear
Centric
2004 Ford EcoSport Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-3A7B527    123.61043  New

Qty:
$27.62
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum (w/o Brg)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2004 - Ford EcoSport Rear
Centric
2005 Ford Fiesta Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-3A7B527    123.61043  New

Qty:
$27.62
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • 240mm Front Disc
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum (w/o Brg)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2005 - Ford Fiesta Rear
Centric
2005 Ford Fiesta Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-3A7B527    123.61043  New

Qty:
$27.62
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • 258mm Front Disc
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum (w/o Brg)
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2005 - Ford Fiesta Rear
Pronto
2000 Ford Focus Brake Drum - Rear Pronto

P311-0E4B25D    BD80112  New

Qty:
$45.38
Pronto Brake Drum  Rear
  • with Wheel Bearing; CAUTION: Always install a new wheel hub retaining nut after loosening or when nut is not tightened to specifications. Torque to 173 ft-lbs (235 Nm) while rotating. When tightening the new wheel hub nut, rotate the brake drum counterclockwise until the correct torque is achieved or damage to the wheel bearing may occur. A new dust cap and dust shield must be installed or damage to the wheel bearing may occur.; Hub/Bearing
  • Product Attributes:
    • Lug: 4
    • Outer Diameter: 9.57"
    • Overall Height: 3.19"
    • Pattern: 4.25"
    • ProdWeight: 13.86
    • Type: Hub/bearing
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Ford Focus Rear
Pronto
2004 Ford EcoSport Brake Drum - Rear Pronto

P311-0E4B25D    BD80112  New

Qty:
$45.38
Pronto Brake Drum  Rear
  • with Bearing; Hub/Bearing
  • Product Attributes:
    • Lug: 4
    • Outer Diameter: 9.57"
    • Overall Height: 3.19"
    • Pattern: 4.25"
    • ProdWeight: 13.86
    • Type: Hub/bearing
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2004 - Ford EcoSport Rear
Pronto
2001 Ford Taurus Brake Drum - Rear Pronto

P311-4329035    BD80099  New

Qty:
$17.77
Pronto Brake Drum  Rear
  • Floating
  • Product Attributes:
    • Lug: 5
    • Outer Diameter: 10.51"
    • Overall Height: 2.67"
    • Pattern: 4.25"
    • ProdWeight: 11.66
    • Type: Floating
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Ford Taurus Rear
Centric
1986 Ford Bronco Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-4C0A430    123.65028  New

Qty:
$38.62
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1986 - Ford Bronco Rear
Centric
2000 Ford E-150 Econoline Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-4C0A430    123.65028  New

Qty:
$38.62
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • To 1/19/00
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Ford E-150 Econoline Rear
Pronto
1987 Ford Bronco Brake Drum - Rear Pronto

P311-5600FFA    BD8974  New

Qty:
$30.83
Pronto Brake Drum  Rear
  • Floating
  • Product Attributes:
    • Lug: 5
    • Outer Diameter: 12.76"
    • Overall Height: 3.7"
    • Pattern: 5.5"
    • ProdWeight: 16.97
    • Type: Floating
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1987 - Ford Bronco Rear

Latest Ford Repair and Brake Drum Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

e150 brake drum

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From Guest on e150 brake drum

i tried to get rear left brake drum off, wont come off.i tried to tap with rubber malet, still no good.e150 ford van.

Response From way2old

Find the adjustment hole and release the adjuster wheel to free the shoes from tne drum also. These are also bad about developing a rust ridge on the outer edge of rim and holds it quite tightly.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Good one way2old. I wasn't thinking of the ring so much as the damn rust we have where I live. Yes if drum is loose and won't come off you need to adjust them to make the clearance. New drum or turned is mandated, T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Put some penetrating oil on the hub to drum area. If real nasty file it down - hub that is. When nobody is looking beat the snots out of outer edges and back and fourth. You could kill it and need a new drum. Rubber is best for the project but it may take a hand sledge -- this crap is common and stinks! The drums with threaded holes are different and would require a different procedure but I don't think Ford vans went there yet??

2 cents if that of a smear of grease will stop that problem forever! T

Removing Brake Drum

Showing 4 out of 9 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From kingjim9 on Removing Brake Drum

Hey guys, does anybody have any tips for backing off the brake shoes to take the brake drum off? The vehicle here is an '06 Ford Taurus SE 3.0L engine

I removed the rubber plug to get access to the star wheel, but I guess I'm having a little difficulty being able to turn it to back off the shoes.

Any tips will be appreciated!

Thanks,

-Jim

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Yes, the self adjuster is only designed to move in one direction. You'll have to slip a small screwdriver alongside your brake spoon to push the self adjuster off the star wheel so you can turn it.

Response From kingjim9

do you have any tips for doing that? ha, I'm sure it's one of those things that once you have some experience you can do it pretty easy by feeling around but since they don't give you the most room to get your tools in there or to see what your doing for that matter it's a little tricky.

I got it to the point where i can almost get the whole thing off, it's just the last little bit gets caught up over the last part of the brake shoes.

Response From Sidom

Check your pm

Response From kingjim9

Hey guys, sorry it took so long getting back to you, I've been pretty busy this past week. I managed to get them off and replace the shoes. Man was it a PITA!!! Once I got one of them off i was able to see how it worked which did help but still between the strut, the brake line, and trying to fit two screwdrivers in the slot on the backing plate made it pretty challenging.

The drums did have a pretty big lip on the outside of it, I ended up getting them machined at the local shop to clean it off.

Thanks for all of your help, espically Sidom with sending me that video for that one tool!

Do you guys have any suggesstions for preventing this in the future? I do live in PA so it gets inspected annunally which the drums (should) be removed every time, but I was just wondering if theres something else I could do to help keep that lip off for future drum removal.

Thanks Again!,

-Jim

Response From Sidom

Glad to hear you the those PITAs off..... I hate'em as well...

Like I mentioned before, it's just a design issue. The shoes wear into the drum.

While it's not a requirement to turn drums everytime shoes are installed, on these I would definitely recommend it because of the lip issue. If you had someone just slap shoes on it before without turning, then the old lip stays & it just gets worse.....

What you could do would be periodically check your brks, if you notice a lip forming and there is still room left you could have the drums turned again.
Me....I'm too cheap. Between having to buy a new drum too early due to turning or fighting the shoes to get the drum off when it's time for shoes......... I'll take the fight...... I have more time than money......

Response From kingjim9

yeah since it's a design issue i'll just leave it till the next time... fortunately brake shoes last longer than pads, so i'll just leave it to the guys at the inspection shop every year to get the drums on and off, and when it gets close to the pass / fail cutoff thickness again...let the battle begin again!! haha!

Again thanks for the help / advice!

Response From Hammer Time

The reason you had the problem is because you let it wear into the drums too far. Those drums should have been replaced, not turned if they had a lip like that.

Response From Sidom

If you can get one drum off then just check out the lever and practice on that side.

If not look thru the hole with a light, you'll see the lever sitting on the star wheel. It just pushes straight out to get off the wheel and turn the wheel in the opposite direction.... Before you start turn the wheel a few clicks to see which way it adjusts so you'll know the way to go to back it off.........

I have a long thin screwdriver that I bent, this way it stays out of the way of what ever you are using to turn the wheel with....

rear wheels stuck on hub

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From glthayer on rear wheels stuck on hub

I'm trying to change my rear brakes but the wheels are stuck. whats the best way to free them up without damaging tires or rims? Ford 250 superduty 2003

Response From techforfree

If i'm understanding it correctly its just the wheels won't come off after you take off the lugnuts ?..If thats the case..very common especially with aluminum wheels,if its on a floor jack..yea....a few good kicks usually will free em up,on a hoist i've already had to hit the back side of the tire with a sledge to get em free.Just be careful if its on a floor jack...good luck

Response From zmame

03 super duty is rear disc is it not??.. your e-brake stuck on?

Response From zmame

or the rims seized on the hubs??.. just put one wheel nut on a few treads and hit back of tire (tire only) with slege hammer.. use extream caution not to knock truck off jack stands.. You can also take caps off and soak hubs in penetrating fluid to loosen corrosion. Still may require few hits to come off.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Is it the brake drum that is stuck or is the wheel stuck to the hub?

Response From Timthecarguy719

Try kicking the heck out of the side of the tire.
Always works for me if a wheel is stuck on.

Response From Hammer Time

You'll have to back off the adjusters from the rear backing plate.

brakes

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From jamesg1551 on brakes

have a 1965 ford manual brakes, drums Question: should main brake line coming off master cyl. be below the master cyl ? it was way to long so i had to put a loop in it. Will this hurt? thanks james

Response From Hammer Time

That won't matter as long as you don't get any air trapped in it. That's a big risk if it's higher than the master.

Response From jamesg1551

thanks very much i may reroute line just to be sure i have no issue with bleeding.....thanks james

Response From Jacklynembrey

Hi,
i am new there,i was also facing that issue.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Jack, please read the FORUM RULES.

Rear wheel leaking fluid into brake drum

Showing 3 out of 8 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Rear wheel leaking fluid into brake drum

1994
Ford E-150 half ton van
5.8L
180,000 Mi.


Hello everyone. A few years ago when having my tires changed the guy told me that I had a leak in the drivers side brake drum. I'm pretty sure he said something like "axle seal leak" or "wheel hub leak".

Does anyone know exactly what this is called? I think I can fix it myself, but I don't know what parts to buy. I have a Chilton's guide for the van, but it only covers wheel bearing replacement, not axle seal replacement. Is this something I can do at home with normal tools?

Response From way2old

If it is an axle seal, yes you can do it at home. We will need to know what type axle you have. As the styles have different repair procedures. If it is the standard Ford rear end, you need to jack up the vehicle, place on jackstands, remove wheels and drums, place pan under rear end, remove rear end cover, rotate rear end gear until you see a small 5/16 head bolt, remove the bolt, remove the thru pin, push axle in to the center, remove the "C" clip on the axle, remove axle. Use the axle as a toolo to remove the old seal. Then clean the seal housing, install new seal squarely, install axle, install clip, install thru pin and lock bolt, clean rear end cover and either have a new gasket or good quality silicone sealer, install rear end cover, fill with proper rear-end grease. WHeeeeeeewwww! Took almost as long to type this as it does to do the repair. Only forseeable problem is the little lick bolt is apt to break. Be really careful on that part. Good luck.

Response From dan777

This reply is for way2old...I have a 1995 half ton e150 with the 5.8L also. I recently tried to pull the rear axles to replace the bearings and just as you said, the little lock bolt broke! I tried drilling for a bolt extractor, but had no luck. Are there any other options to get that bolt out?

Response From Hammer Time

This thread is over 2 years old. If you need help with something, please start a new question of your own.

Response From Guest

I think Ive done a bad job in describing my problem. It sound like you explained how to replace the seals at the differential itself, my problem is closer to the wheel assembly. Aren't there seals in the wheel area that prevent axle grease from leaking into the brake drum housing? If so, those are the seals I'm taking about. The entire inside of the brake drum is soaked in oil, shoes included. Here are some pictures, I hope they help.

Response From way2old

Good pictures. The axle seal is at the end of the axle. I saw other pictures you posted on other sites and the seal is what is leaking. You have to remove the axle to get to the seals. The seals go around the axle at the point you pointed out on the other pictures. Once you follow the instructions, and remove the axle, you will see the seal. Please do not be confused by the other pictures you are trying to compare your vehicle to. These are 2 completely different rear end set ups.

Response From Guest

Lol, caught me posting things on other sites eh? Yeah, the guy on there offering me advice has surely cleared up a few things for me. I didn't understand that the axle had to be messed with inside the differential area. You gotta to all that just to change out a seal huh? What about wheel bearings. Do I have to pull the axle just to swap those out?

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

Yes you do. The axle bearings are just behind the axle seal. Good luck on the repair.