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Best Selling Genuine Dodge Brake Drums

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Brembo
1995 Dodge Colt Brake Drum Brembo

P311-2F07288    W0133-1618763  New

Qty:
$17.79
Brembo Brake Drum
  • NLA 3/10
  • Rear
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Dodge Colt
Brembo
1985 Dodge B150 Brake Drum Brembo

P311-413DE70    W0133-1625272  New

Qty:
$50.09
Brembo Brake Drum
  • with 11" x 2.5" Brakes
  • Rear
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1985 - Dodge B150
PBR
1985 Dodge B150 Brake Drum PBR

P311-5A91138    W0133-1625272  New

Qty:
$71.84
PBR Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with 11" x 2.5" Brakes
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1985 - Dodge B150
Brembo
1995 Dodge B1500 Brake Drum Brembo

P311-413DE70    W0133-1625272  New

Qty:
$50.09
Brembo Brake Drum
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Dodge B1500
PBR
1995 Dodge B1500 Brake Drum PBR

P311-5A91138    W0133-1625272  New

Qty:
$71.84
PBR Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Dodge B1500
Brembo
1984 Dodge B250 Brake Drum Brembo

P311-413DE70    W0133-1625272  New

Qty:
$50.09
Brembo Brake Drum
  • with 11" Rear Drums
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1984 - Dodge B250
PBR
1984 Dodge B250 Brake Drum PBR

P311-5A91138    W0133-1625272  New

Qty:
$71.84
PBR Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with 11" Rear Drums
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1984 - Dodge B250
Brembo
1990 Dodge B350 Brake Drum Brembo

P311-413DE70    W0133-1625272  New

Qty:
$50.09
Brembo Brake Drum
  • Drum Only
    with 11" x 2.5" Rear Drums
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Dodge B350
PBR
1990 Dodge B350 Brake Drum PBR

P311-5A91138    W0133-1625272  New

Qty:
$71.84
PBR Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Drum Only
    with 11" x 2.5" Rear Drums
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Dodge B350
Brembo
1986 Dodge D250 Brake Drum Brembo

P311-413DE70    W0133-1625272  New

Qty:
$50.09
Brembo Brake Drum
  • with 11" x 2.5" Brakes
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Dodge D250
Brembo
1994 Dodge Ram 3500 Brake Drum Brembo

P311-413DE70    W0133-1625272  New

Qty:
$50.09
Brembo Brake Drum
  • with 11" x 2.5" Rear Drums
Brand: Brembo
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Dodge Ram 3500
PBR
1994 Dodge Ram 3500 Brake Drum PBR

P311-5A91138    W0133-1625272  New

Qty:
$71.84
PBR Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with 11" x 2.5" Rear Drums
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Dodge Ram 3500
PBR
1987 Dodge Caravan Brake Drum PBR

P311-0705E40    W0133-1629570  New

Qty:
$38.34
PBR Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Vehicles Originally Equipped with 15" Factory Wheels
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Dodge Caravan
PBR
1991 Dodge Caravan Brake Drum PBR

P311-0705E40    W0133-1629570  New

Qty:
$38.34
PBR Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Dodge Caravan
PBR
2000 Dodge Caravan Brake Drum PBR

P311-446996A    W0133-1670294  New

Qty:
$74.49
PBR Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Vehicles Originally Equipped with 14" Factory Wheels
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Dodge Caravan
Centric
1996 Dodge Caravan Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-463F3F2    123.67029  New

Qty:
$37.97
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • 282mm Front Disc
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Dodge Caravan Rear
Centric
2002 Dodge Caravan Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-463F3F2    123.67029  New

Qty:
$37.97
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Dodge Caravan Rear
Centric
2003 Dodge Caravan Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-463F3F2    123.67029  New

Qty:
$37.97
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • Caliper Cast# 134731
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2003 - Dodge Caravan Rear
Centric
2003 Dodge Caravan Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-463F3F2    123.67029  New

Qty:
$37.97
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • Caliper Cast# 6623.9
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2003 - Dodge Caravan Rear
Centric
2005 Dodge Grand Caravan Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-463F3F2    123.67029  New

Qty:
$37.97
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • Caliper Cast# 144359
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2005 - Dodge Grand Caravan Rear

Latest Dodge Repair and Brake Drum Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Replacing brake shoes can't find right size replacement?

Showing 3 out of 10 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From ShyWillow on Replacing brake shoes can't find right size replacement?

We bought an old RV and are fixing it up. One of the many things needing fixed was brakes..we went and bought new brake shoes for our 1972 doge B20 tradesman rv. The shoes that auto zone told us we needed turned out to be to long. The brake shoes that came off have a 12 x 3 pad on a 15 inch shoe, the ones sold to us have a 16 inch shoe. We have since looked on several web sites and ran into problems finding anything about our RV. We went to Napa they didn't know what to do. We went to a Dodge dealer ship to see if we could get new parts, according to them their is no such model ever made by dodge....

Info from inside the door frame
Make Dodge
Model B20
Date of MFG 02 72
Vehicle Type TRUCK

I have had many problems looking this thing up as it is a motor home. Everything I find online is info for a van and no site I have seen lists shoe size.

The door has Tradesman 200 on it... I can upload pics and such as needed

I am not real sure what to do at this point, hopefully someone here can help.

Can someone find a part number for replacement brake shoes?



Thank you for taking the time to read this.

Response From Double J

I just found a motorhome parts catalog listed on Ebay

It says the chassis is an M300
Maybe this catalog will help you

Raybestos site for M300 shows same part #

Click for Ebay catalog

Click for Ebay owners manual

Hope some of this helps

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Double J - our age is showing!
Drum brake shoes where I am are no longer "re-lined" which was common not all that long ago. You could or can find a "rebuilder" that will re-line YOUR metal shoes or buy products to DIY it never done by me. Friction material (asbestos) once was sold by the roll to rivet on new linings. Current problem I think will be finding tools to DIY that now or what was clearly brass rivets.


Suggestion: If you can't find whole redone shoes or new absolutely keep your old ones and would pay any core deposit to have them.


Forget Autozone or similar places. NAPA should have been able to handle this and blew you off IMO.
Expect a hunt but you can get yours done or others ready to go.


Other idea: Have you looked for model year 1973 instead? Try that as that exact model year Chrysler as a company began selling chassis to take over the RV and custom frame biz,


T

Response From ShyWillow

Autozone part #358 has the same problem the metal part of the shoe is one inch longer than the one that came off of the motor home.

Going to go look into the other bits now and thanks for the info. ^^

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Do your hunt. If all fails I'll plain call who can reline your own old ones if need be. I'll refrain from posting their phone # but is listed in biz, Automotive Brake Warehouse, Central St. Hudson, MA 01749.


They were suppliers to much of a huge area of New England mostly wholesale but do or did some custom stuff,
T

Response From ShyWillow Top Rated Answer

I think we worked out the problem. I brought the brake shoes inside and was comparing all the bolt patterns to the pictures and such of the brakes suggested here. None of them match up so I went to just looking at brake shoes on ebay for a dodge B20 1972.. and I found one that matched up in shape and wholes and even lil brass peg match. I was so happy until I seen it was an 11x 3 >.< but it got me to wondering the 12x 3 was an inch long. So I asked my dad who being a big rig mechanic for 40+years if maybe it was an 11x3. He hates all things to do with the internet.. He measured the shoe and told/showed me again it was a 12x3...

I ended up looking at the brake drums.. the inside diameter is 11 inch. So he looked at it closer and found stamped on it the size.. He thanked me. ^^

We are going tomorrow to Napa and hopefully getting the right shoe this time. ^^

Thanks everyone for your help and sorry for having the wrong info.. I don't know a whole lot about such things and when he said it was 12x3 I didn't have anything else to go off of.

I will let everyone know how it goes when we get it done. ^^

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK I think? Seems your measuring came into play somehow. When you say 11,12 and then "X3" I take that as for the drum inside diameter that would be marked with its max diameter like when machined/turned.
If you were measuring the amount/length of lining on the metal shoe that should be a standard for the drum. More lining always goes to the rear shoe. This is too new for dual wheel cylinders where each would be the same amount of lining.


Gotcha on the punch in peg that I long forgot about. Redone brakes take those out and give you new ones or all I recall.
Said before keep your old "core" shoes till this definitely works out exactly right. I know it's old but this stuff is still out there in use on something maybe lots newer than this?


Seems like you are all set,


T

Response From ShyWillow

When my dad measured he took a tape measure and bent it around the pad on the brake shoe to get 12 and across it is 3 and told me it's 12 x 3. I looked up several measurement methods for determining size of shoe, most show it as inside diameter of brake drum and depth. A few of them suggest on most brake drums is stamped the inside diameter. The brake shoes I found where everything matched was WAGNER-PAB336 witch are for a 1972 dodge B200 Van Sportsman. I don't know if that's the right ones or not.. It just got me to thinking the whole 12x3 might not be right so I had to ask and after his grumpy you don't know anything I have done this for longer than you have been alive and internet can't help you do anything speech. I wonted to double check his way of finding the size. None of the things I found showed doing it like he did. We aren't getting the shoes off of ebay as they are for a van/sportsman instead of a truck tradesman.. Though if Napa, auto-zone, or other such places can't help him this time with the 11x3 I might get them.

He has already told me he will be keeping the cores. Old parts get harder and harder to find. I am going to have him take the brake drum and shoes with him this time.

Oh this is also a front driver side we have taken apart.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? You need to measure the inside of the drum where shoes contact even with a ruler or tape measure - that's the drum size. Like this sample (not yours) done in mm....
/


With drum off place a new show inside and it should just about match up with the arc of shoe and inside of drum even with some wear look real close. If a drum was ONE inch larger it would be wildly obvious shoe(s) aren't correct.


Don't be measuring just the amount of lining on the shoes. I said rear will have more friction material than the front on purpose. Who decided how much for each isn't my call if that part is right for the vehicle. One inch now talking length I don't even bother for most just know that they are correct or not.


Samples pics of common drum brakes even this old...........
/
See the top shoe in this pic the length of lining this one riveted to the metal shoe is longer on the right side of that pic meaning those go to the rear of the vehicle + the ones shown left side go to the front.


You have to know some basics of this or you'll get in trouble. New hardware is always suggested - hold down springs and return springs. Left and right wheels are "asymmetrically" opposite meaning like your hands are a mirror image of each other.


This is primal and crude as brakes go but put on wrong will self destruct with broken springs or who knows if AFUed. You have to also know parking brake cable is free and returns/extends out fully or you are out of your league doing this job but can get parts.
I can't think of any wild special tools for any for this except common brake spring pliers and hold-down tool like a round ended screwdriver. Park cable can be a fight to get on arms + there's a tool for that or work with pliers carefully.


Can't let you mess this up even finding parts you have to know what I just said to measure drum. Shoes should match old ones also a reason to keep them to match up.


If in doubt doing this please get help it isn't that hard as things go but anything can be messed up and this is brakes so no room for mistakes!


T

Response From Double J

I looked up on Wagner and Raybestos websites
Had to look under 1972 D200 pickup

Found several 12x3 shoes

Wagner part # Z358 AR Front and Rears

Raybestos Part # 314 PG or 314 SG Front and Rears

Autozone and OReilly both showed a part # 358 for 12x3 shoes as well

Don't know if that's what you have or what they gave you already

vibration

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on vibration

2000 dodge 2500 series truck.165,000 miles new tires. truck vibrates badly between 55 and 70 miles per hour. front end was aligned. above and below those mph vibrations are minimal

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

With mechanical faults ruled out this could be a wheel trueness or overall balance problem. Note that the heavier rotor and drums used for HD applications are also part of the balance of the wheel as an assembly.

On vehicle high speed balance may be available if plain wheel and tire balance is showing good.

I might be off on the wrong track for this specific issue but have been thru this with the brake parts being a balance problem. So far I haven't found a place or practical way to rebalance used brake drums and rotors and rely on quality new ones to have done that properly.

Of interest: It's been my own experience that this balance and trueness is noticed most at the speeds you mentioned. Have had some return to smooth above a certain speed like you have noticed!

T

2000 Dodge, Humming noise from rear

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From tickyman on 2000 Dodge, Humming noise from rear

2000
Dodge
Durango
5.9L
141k miles

Hi, I recently am having a problem with my durango, it is making a humming noise which seems to be coming from the rear. It starts to make the noise at around 25/30 mph and up only when I'm on the gas pedal, and when I come to a stop from 20mph it hums and seems to grind a small bit too, but only when I come to a stop. I have checked the wheel bearings and I don't think it is a bearing problem because the wheel doesn't move when I try to shake it, and it only occurs when in gear and getting gas. I had recently gotten a flat tire in the rear about 2 weeks ago and had it repaired, but I don't think that is problem because it makes the noise on gravel and dirt roads. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

This is a straight axle like a pickup, so the test for the front end isn't the same as the back end. Have you looked to see if it it leaking gear oil? What level is the rear end at? Pull the rear wheels and brake drums off so you can grab the axleshaft without the brakes hiding any play. See if you can move the shaft up and down. If so, bearings are shot. They take a special puller which uses a slide hammer to remove, and you have to take the diff cover off, pull the cross pin and c-clips to pull the shafts.

Response From tickyman

I took it to my mechanic and he is going to put it on on the lift this Tuesday. He says it could be a
worn pinion bearing. I'm going to have him check the gear fluid as well so I will update this Tuesday.
Thanks for the response!

2007 Dodge Caravan wheels smoking after alignment brakes failed

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From kj.richardson on 2007 Dodge Caravan wheels smoking after alignment brakes failed

I took my 2007 Dodge Caravan for a rear alignment (to the same guys that put in rear brakes, pads, shoes and calipers only 4 months ago). The 1st trip (it has taken 3 so far) they said they would have to order shims, so come back. We came back and they said that they had the shims but only 1 guy was 'qualified' to install them (is this extra hard?) and he was off. 3rd trip... took 4 hours and they said that it is OK to drive but they need a different shim for one side because the one they ordered is the wrong size, they reitterated that it was perfectly fine and that we just needed to do this to prevent future problems. it is scheduled for thursday....
This morning on the freeway, the rear brakes stopped working altogether (pumping did nothing), smoke was billowing out of the wheels (when brakes were not being applied). Had to glide up an off ramp to stop. Could this be related to the shim installation?- This is the 1st time it was driven since the alignment (other than the 2 blocks home from the repair place on a 15 mph street)

I would like to be aware of all of the probable causes before I have to debate with them about what else needs to be done. They are the only place we can go right now, I would have left the moment they told me our tread depth was 14 and 14.5 in the rear if we had any alternatives.

Response From nickwarner

Alignment cannot cause the brake failure you have. There is something else going on here. Get the vehicle towed back to the shop and have them figure out what went wrong. Perhaps it is something they did, perhaps not. This needs an expert eye to determine what is needed to make this safe to drive again.

Response From Hammer Time

Although the alignment itself didn't cause it, they did have to disassemble everything in that area and I would suspect that they either left the wheel bearing loose or overtightened it to burn it out.

Response From kj.richardson Top Rated Answer

Thank you! When we got it back to them, they said that they had overtightened the brakes,they "fixed it" then when we tried to leave there was a terrible sound and the smoke started again. They have been looking at it all morning an have just told us that the smoke is because the brake drum was "not positioned right,was catching and has a small crack" and they are going to sand it down so that it will not catch anymore..... Does this sound OK?

Response From Hammer Time

No, it sounds like nonsense. It sounds like you have a bunch of rookies trying to work on it. It shouldn't be a problem for a competent tech and probably wouldn't have happened in the first place.

Response From kj.richardson

Thanks! I can't wait to get out of here, will it be safe enough to go about 45 miles to a real mechanic?

Response From nickwarner

I wouldn't. The excessive heat from the brake trouble can cause bearing trouble that could take a wheel off and your brakes cannot be trusted to work with the damage done to them. I wouldn't drive it anywhere but onto the back of a trailer to tow it to a reputable shop.

2004 Dodge Neon Lug Bolt Replacement

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From armeyer27 on 2004 Dodge Neon Lug Bolt Replacement

Ok, so I do not know much about cars but i feel i know enough for this job.. i can do brakes and general maintenance but im still learning things. I have tons of friends that can help that know a LOT more than I do. Here is my problem:

I have a broken lug bolt on both sides of my car, on the rear wheels. I have read up and watched multiple online videos regarding this repair. I have purchased new bolts, lug nuts, and a open ended nut in order to pull through the new stud. Yesterday i tried to do the job with a neighbor of mine and our problem lies within the master hub bolt (the big bolt in the middle of brake drums) He broke his craftsman breaker bar, craftsman extension, and his huskey socket wrench. Everything was attempted with a 4 foot pipe extension and this bolt NEVER broke loose. Is there something im completely missing here?

Also, any general instructions or hints for this repair would be greatly appreciated. Thankyou!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Hmmm? Was some older Mopars had a hard time with that problem. Most may require removal and inspection of the hub to see that's it's fit for a fix! Don't over-tighten lug nut but know by torque they are right. A small smear of rust proofing on threads only can help prevent this but not where it contacts wheel - that is to say where lug nut contacts the wheel. Old school with that, that it was ok to do just one on a hub and if it needed two you should get a new hub,

T