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Best Selling Genuine Chrysler Brake Drums

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PBR
1990 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Drum PBR

P311-0705E40    W0133-1629570  New

Qty:
$38.34
PBR Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Vehicles Originally Equipped with 15" Factory Wheels
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Chrysler Town & Country
PBR
1992 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Drum PBR

P311-0705E40    W0133-1629570  New

Qty:
$38.34
PBR Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Chrysler Town & Country
PBR
1995 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Drum PBR

P311-0705E40    W0133-1629570  New

Qty:
$38.34
PBR Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Vehicles Originally Equipped with 15" Factory Wheels
    with 9" x 2.5" Brakes
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Chrysler Town & Country
PBR
1997 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Drum PBR

P311-446996A    W0133-1670294  New

Qty:
$74.49
PBR Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with 14" Factory Wheels

    Excludes Towing Package
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Chrysler Town & Country
PBR
1999 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Drum PBR

P311-446996A    W0133-1670294  New

Qty:
$74.49
PBR Brake Drum
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with 14" Factory Wheels
  • Rear
Brand: PBR
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Chrysler Town & Country
Centric
2000 Chrysler Grand Voyager Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-463F3F2    123.67029  New

Qty:
$36.36
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • 282mm Front Disc
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Chrysler Grand Voyager Rear
Centric
2003 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-463F3F2    123.67029  New

Qty:
$36.36
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2003 - Chrysler Town & Country FWD Rear
Centric
1996 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-463F3F2    123.67029  New

Qty:
$36.36
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • 15 Wheels 282mm Front Disc
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Chrysler Town & Country Rear
Pronto
2000 Chrysler Grand Voyager Brake Drum - Rear Pronto

P311-23E18D3    BD80021  New

Qty:
$27.95
Pronto Brake Drum  Rear
  • with 15 Inch Wheels; Floating
  • Product Attributes:
    • Lug: 5
    • Outer Diameter: 12.11"
    • Overall Height: 3.05"
    • Pattern: 4.5"
    • ProdWeight: 18.04
    • Type: Floating
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Chrysler Grand Voyager Rear
Pronto
1996 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Drum - Rear Pronto

P311-23E18D3    BD80021  New

Qty:
$27.95
Pronto Brake Drum  Rear
  • 15 Inch Wheels; Floating
  • Product Attributes:
    • Lug: 5
    • Outer Diameter: 12.11"
    • Overall Height: 3.05"
    • Pattern: 4.5"
    • ProdWeight: 18.04
    • Type: Floating
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Chrysler Town & Country Rear
Pronto
1996 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Drum - Rear Pronto

P311-23E18D3    BD80021  New

Qty:
$27.95
Pronto Brake Drum  Rear
  • 16 Inch Wheels; Floating
  • Product Attributes:
    • Lug: 5
    • Outer Diameter: 12.11"
    • Overall Height: 3.05"
    • Pattern: 4.5"
    • ProdWeight: 18.04
    • Type: Floating
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Chrysler Town & Country Rear
Pronto
2003 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Drum - Rear Pronto

P311-23E18D3    BD80021  New

Qty:
$27.95
Pronto Brake Drum  Rear
  • Floating
  • Product Attributes:
    • Lug: 5
    • Outer Diameter: 12.11"
    • Overall Height: 3.05"
    • Pattern: 4.5"
    • ProdWeight: 18.04
    • Type: Floating
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2003 - Chrysler Town & Country Rear
Centric
1990 Chrysler Daytona Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-1B85AFB    123.63030  New

Qty:
$17.43
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1990 - Chrysler Daytona Rear
Pronto
1985 Chrysler LeBaron Brake Drum - Rear Pronto

P311-2965F70    BD8947  New

Qty:
$13.22
Pronto Brake Drum  Rear
  • Floating
  • Product Attributes:
    • Lug: 5
    • Outer Diameter: 9.13"
    • Overall Height: 2.41"
    • Pattern: 3.94"
    • ProdWeight: 6.80
    • Type: Floating
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Submodel
1985 - Chrysler LeBaron Rear GTS
Pronto
1988 Chrysler LeBaron Brake Drum - Rear Pronto

P311-2965F70    BD8947  New

Qty:
$13.22
Pronto Brake Drum  Rear
  • 200MM X 32.5MM Brake; Floating
  • Product Attributes:
    • Lug: 5
    • Outer Diameter: 9.13"
    • Overall Height: 2.41"
    • Pattern: 3.94"
    • ProdWeight: 6.80
    • Type: Floating
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Submodel
1988 - Chrysler LeBaron Rear Base
Pronto
2000 Chrysler Neon Brake Drum - Rear Pronto

P311-2965F70    BD8947  New

Qty:
$13.22
Pronto Brake Drum  Rear
  • 5 Lug; Floating
  • Product Attributes:
    • Lug: 5
    • Outer Diameter: 9.13"
    • Overall Height: 2.41"
    • Pattern: 3.94"
    • ProdWeight: 6.80
    • Type: Floating
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Pronto
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle BrakeABS Brakes Position
2000 - Chrysler Neon Non-ABS Power Rear
Centric
2000 Chrysler Cirrus Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-53C2D12    123.63043  New

Qty:
$21.16
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • C-TEK Standard Brake Drum-Preferred
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Chrysler Cirrus Rear
Centric
2000 Chrysler Grand Voyager Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-5BE7A42    122.67029  New

Qty:
$47.69
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • 282mm Front Disc
  • Premium Drum-Preferred
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Chrysler Grand Voyager Rear
Centric
2003 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-5BE7A42    122.67029  New

Qty:
$47.69
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • Premium Drum-Preferred
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2003 - Chrysler Town & Country FWD Rear
Centric
1996 Chrysler Town & Country Brake Drum - Rear Centric

P311-5BE7A42    122.67029  New

Qty:
$47.69
Centric Brake Drum  Rear
  • 15 Wheels 282mm Front Disc
  • Premium Drum-Preferred
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Chrysler Town & Country Rear

Latest Chrysler Repair and Brake Drum Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

stuck brake drums

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From 76 camaro on stuck brake drums

This is a town and country minni van. It was bought used years ago and I have never seen the rear brake pads. The drums are stuck meaning they do NOT move. They seem to be gaulded up over the center piece (bearing cap, hub or whatever). I have in the past had the problem with ridges on the inside surface from wear of the drum but this is not that. I thought about heating up the drum and knocking it loose with a dead blow hammer but could heat crack the drum? What is a good trick? I have beat the daylights out of these drums and they won't budge. Thanks.

Response From Hammer Time

What year is the van?

Response From 76 camaro Top Rated Answer

Sorry, This is a 1999 Chrysler Town and Country mini van with rear drum brakes. Thanks

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

As a last resort, I've used a 1/8" drill bit to drill a hole right where the drum meets the hub (50/50 hub/drum...won't hurt either) and spayed A LOT of penetrant into the drilled hole.

Response From 76 camaro

Thanks for the tips. I hope to try my luck this weekend and will let you know how it turns out. Thanks again.

Response From Hammer Time

If the drum is stuck around the hub area, then spray some penetrating oil around that area generously. Take a very heavy hammer and hit the drum on the edge in a direction toward the hub. What I mean is don't hit in a "back" direction as that will bend the drum but hit from the side so the impact is directly toward the hub. Rotate the drum as you do this and that should break the hub free.

If the hub is free but it's caught on the brake shoes, here are the factory instructions.


REMOVAL

  1. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle. Remove the park brake cable for the wheel of the vehicle that is being worked on, from the parking brake cable equalizer). This is required to gain access to the star wheel. If the cable is not removed from the equalizer, the cable and spring inside of the brake drum is in the way of the star wheel.
  2. Remove the rear brake shoe adjusting hole cover plug.
  3. Insert a thin screwdriver into brake adjusting hole and hold adjusting lever away from notches of adjusting screw star wheel.
  4. Insert Tool C-3784 into brake adjusting hole and engage notches of brake adjusting screw star wheel. Release brake adjustment by prying down with adjusting tool.
  5. Remove rear brake drum from rear hub/bearing assembly.

2004 Taurus Brake wear backwards

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From crazycarz on 2004 Taurus Brake wear backwards

2004 taurus station wagon front brakes = almost no wear
Rear brakes(disc) are totally worn.
Shouldn't the fronts wear much more than rear? Also
hear a low "scraping" noise when stopping, but rears
are not completely worn, some material left.
I lift car, brakes all seem to be OK, no drag on calipers.
Appear to grip rotors OK all around when lifted.
? is there a problem w/front power brakes boost?

Response From Hammer Time

Shouldn't the fronts wear much more than rear?

Not necessarily, depends on the design.

Those rear brakes need to be examined much closer as i suspect they are metal to metal in at least one spot.

Response From crazycarz

Thanks, will do. what is best way to find out if design is to allow rear brakes
to do most of braking? Are dealers receptive to questions like this?
i suppose they want me to bring car in?

Response From Hammer Time

That's not information you will find anywhere because it's not an intentional design, just the way it worked out and the only way you find out is through observance and experience. There are many rear discs that wear out before front discs.

Response From crazycarz Top Rated Answer

Thanks much!! You have been more than helpful.
Another question- My dad had problems with a Chrysler Concorde,
constantly warping brake drums before he finally went to Organic
pads. Once he started using organic pads, problem gone.
And he is not hard on brakes.
If factory pads are NOT ORGANIC, should I go to organic pads
someplace else?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

As vehicles evolved brake rotors and drums have so little extra metal that turning them puts them out of spec. Quality new is about the only way to go. Organic to me means asbestos which was long ago about all that was used. That is being phased out,

Brakes especially should be to factory specs,

T

Response From nickwarner

Your car is 8 years old. Its definately had the front brakes done before. Are you the original owner? Most cars eat 2 sets of fronts to one set of rears. What is the total service history on the brakes?

Response From crazycarz

One set of front brakes has been installed. this is 2nd set of rear's inst.
replaced rear rotors and Right rear caliper(original was sticky). 60k miles on car.
Car runs well now. no more pulsating brakes during stop.
thanks

Response From Hammer Time

Glad you got it fixed. We can close this question now

Response From Hammer Time

Not all Nick. I have seen many, especially Fords with 4 wheel disc eat p the rear ones much faster than the front. Some poor engineering.

Response From nickwarner

Not the first time the blue oval screwed the pooch on engineering. Thanks for the info.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Especially this being a "wagon" and unknown loads it could have been designed to apply rear brakes first for longer on light braking. Tends to help prevent that nose dive effect if front only work hard at first............

T

Two Ladies Restoring a 1988 Chrysler Fith Avenue Need Help Installing Brakes and Suspension! PLEASE HELP!!!

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From Dark1s on Two Ladies Restoring a 1988 Chrysler Fith Avenue Need Help Installing Brakes and Suspension! PLEASE HELP!!!

We're doing a complete restore on a 1988 Chrysler 5th Avenue. First of all just to let everyone know, we don't have any previous automotive experience But we're not dumb and we're determined that this car is going to get fixed, even if we have to stand on our heads! After purchasing the repair manual online, we already with no one's help installed the windshield wiper motor, and stripped down the door frames and replaced the window motor. So as far as the brakes and suspension go, we're starting with the parts that need the most attention. First on the list of repairs is completely replacing all the parts that have to do with Steering, Suspension, and Brakes. When replacing the Brakes and Suspension, which parts should we replace first? We called the local auto parts store and got a list of parts we need to to replace the Brakes. Here's the list they gave us.1 Brake Pads (Front), 1 Brake Shoes (Rear), 2 Rotor & Hub Assemblies (Front), 2 Brake Drums (Rear), 2 Wheel Cylinders (Rear), 1 Brake Show Hardware Kit, 1 Hold Down Kit (Rear), 1 Self Adjuster Repair Kit (Left), 1 Self Adjuster Repair Kit (Right), 1 Brake Hose ( Left Front), 1 Brake Hose (Right Front), 1 Brake Hose (Rear), 2 Wheel Bearings (Outer and Front), 2 Wheel Seals, (Front Wheel), 2 Spindle Lock Nut Kits (Front), 2 Dust Caps/Wheel Bearing), 2 Wheel Bearings (Rear Wheel), 2 Wheel Seals (Rear Wheel), 1 Caliper w/ Hardware (Left Front), 1 Caliper w/Hardware (Right Front). Is anything missing from this list? Which part is it best to install first? Now for the suspension, we're really out in the cold, because Mopar doesn't make any of the parts going back more then 10 years and we're talking 1988, so we have find a different solution to getting parts such as new leaf springs and a torsion bar, etc for the suspension. How do we find parts not made by the manufacturer any more??? And we're talking about complete teardown of the suspension just like the brakes. We want to get this baby in mint condition! Like he came right off the lot!

By the way, there's another question that's kinda related to this whole job. We're gonna be under the car a lot, so we want to know, Are Jack Stands Safe? I've heard a lot of hell stories about Jack stands, so we wanted to know can you lift the car completely off the ground on four jackstands and work safely underneath it? We're using four five-ton jack stands. Any suggestions would be great. We'll be so happy when the brakes and suspension are working again. No more squeaking and slipping! Thanks again!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You have so much going on here that you probably should enroll in an adult ed vocational school.

Why do you think it needs a torsion bar? Just one! Rusted at the floor? Forget that car if so.

Leaf springs - again why?

If you must do this just make sure car is properly supported on solid surface.

Best to ask one question at a time as things arise. I can't give you two year tech school education in one thread,

T

Response From Dark1s

Thank you for your imput Tom but we don't have the money or time to go to vocational school so we have been kinda winging it like they did in the ol day's. I purchased the repair manual because it's a complete rebuild guide as for as the basic parts. The leaf springs on my car are not in the best condition a bit of rust on them and the shackles on one of them looks very bent. We were just simply asking if it's a good idea to do the brakes and suspension at the same time since we are going to be taking the bottom of the car apart? And which one should we start working on first the suspension or the brakes?? We we're just hoping to get some kinda guideness or els we'll just have to jump in head first?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I'd make it stop properly first!

What you need is one heck of a good parts outlet. I would choose NAPA nearest to me for pro help. Springs (leaf) can be fixed and a good parts store would know who does in the area.

Near every dumb part you need is same day for a car that new or is for me. I drive an 1989 as a dailer driver - not this car but order by 10am parts are there by 4pm almost without fail!

Torsion bars are adjustable! If one is broken (I think this uses two) that's a different thing.

Suspension and front end parts. They wouldn't likely all be bad so learn how to look for the worn ones.

Brakes: Follow your guide to the letter! If you need parking brake cables you make any adjustments to them when brakes are done and proper first.

Short of dropping this off for resoration there are several trades involved. Front end and alignment specialty shops. Not worth buying some tools for many repairs. You will likely need an auto body shop and a body shop parts store for some common stuff. Know a good salvage yard. Special body parts won't be available new easily.

Special shops for different things:

Body work/finish work.
Auto Glass as needed.
Transmission work is frequently on it's own.
Front End parts and alignments not done everywhere - another specialty.
Uphostery! Need I say more?
A/C is frequently on its own too.
Welding is on its own short of smaller issues.
The list goes on forever.

Trying to say you need a good central shop and parts store as your "Ring Master" to do this as you simply won't be able to do everything yourself.

There are plenty of things you can do yourself and plenty that would cost you zillions to have the equipment/tools for.

I'd find a local or national club for Mopars and join it.

____________________

Is the car operational now? If rough enough you may want to buy a parts car of the same.

One thing at a time as you can't just wave a wand and it all be done at once nor at the same places.

Tools! Yikes you can go broke buying just tools. When something needs a special tool it frequently is better to just let that go out as the tool can easily exceed the whole cost of a job. Why own a tool for a one time thing?

Appreciate your energy but suggest you break things down into catagories and go for it one area at a time,

T

Response From Dark1s

Thanks. Appreciate you pointing us in the right direction. We are starting just one job at a time. Now we know to stick with the brakes first. The car is operational. So we're not trying to do everything at once. Trying to keep the job step by step. Right now what we're focusing on is the Brakes and Suspension, since that is what we seems to have the most problems. The A/C and all that other stuff can wait for later. We already found a local junkyard and pulled some body interior parts, so we're not completely dumb. We've done our research as much as a newbie can do.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Start with front brakes. I wouldn't even touch the rears till front is all done. If you place floor jack under lower control arm just lift it a couple inches. Pry up on the wheel still on and look for motion at ball joints then jockey it side to side and look for tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arm for play. Just do that now so you know if you need those.

Take the front wheels off, caliper off of rotor and let's get going. The flex hoses unless this is a museum piece will give you a hard time where they meed the body and metal line. May break metal line and we can cross those bridges when and if they happen,

T

Response From Hammer Time

I can't give you two year tech school education in one thread,

Keyboard won' survive that........LOL