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The Following brands are available based on your search.

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Best Selling Genuine International Brake Calipers

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Cardone
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of International Replacement Brake Caliper Parts
Cardone
1989 International 1654 Disc Brake Caliper - Rear Left Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper

P311-5A876DF    18-8000  Remanufactured

15618891 , 15514583 , 15566042 , 15615220 , 15501012 , 1658443C91 , 15608854 , 8156188910 , 55250BX , 55250

Qty:
$8.10 $63.50
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Rear Left
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper
  • with 2.88" Piston Bendix Caliper with Phenolic Piston Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1989 - International 1654 Rear Left
Cardone
1999 International 3000 Disc Brake Caliper - Front Right Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper

P311-0502476    18-8058  Remanufactured

4C4Z2B120MB , 4C4Z2B120MA , 4C4Z2553AA , 8U9Z2B120AB , 2509254C91 , 4C4Z2B121MB , 4C4Z2190AA , 4C4Z2B121MA , 2501838C91 , 4C4Z2190DA

Qty:
$29.70 $72.17
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Front Right
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper
  • with 73 mm Piston with Bosch Original Caliper Casting # 4153222 with Phenolic Piston Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - International 3000 Front Right
Cardone
2006 International 4200 Disc Brake Caliper - Front Left Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper

P311-0502476    18-8058  Remanufactured

4C4Z2B120MB , 4C4Z2B120MA , 4C4Z2553AA , 8U9Z2B120AB , 2509254C91 , 4C4Z2B121MB , 4C4Z2190AA , 4C4Z2B121MA , 2501838C91 , 4C4Z2190DA

Qty:
$29.70 $72.17
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Front Left
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper
  • with 73 mm Piston with Bosch Original Caliper Casting # 4153222 with Phenolic Piston Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2006 - International 4200 Front Left
Cardone
1989 International 1652SC Disc Brake Caliper - Front Left Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper

P311-5A876DF    18-8000  Remanufactured

15618891 , 15514583 , 15566042 , 15615220 , 15501012 , 1658443C91 , 15608854 , 8156188910 , 55250BX , 55250

Qty:
$8.10 $63.50
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Front Left
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper
  • with 2.88" Piston Bendix Caliper with Phenolic Piston Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1989 - International 1652SC Front Left
Cardone
1983 International 1654 Disc Brake Caliper - Rear Right Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper

P311-5A876DF    18-8000  Remanufactured

15618891 , 15514583 , 15566042 , 15615220 , 15501012 , 1658443C91 , 15608854 , 8156188910 , 55250BX , 55250

Qty:
$8.10 $63.50
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Rear Right
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper
  • with 2.88" Piston Bendix Caliper with Phenolic Piston Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1983 - International 1654 Rear Right
Cardone
2002 International 4200 Disc Brake Caliper - Rear Right Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper

P311-0502476    18-8058  Remanufactured

4C4Z2B120MB , 4C4Z2B120MA , 4C4Z2553AA , 8U9Z2B120AB , 2509254C91 , 4C4Z2B121MB , 4C4Z2190AA , 4C4Z2B121MA , 2501838C91 , 4C4Z2190DA

Qty:
$29.70 $72.17
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Rear Right
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper
  • with 73 mm Piston with Bosch Original Caliper Casting # 4153222 with Phenolic Piston Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - International 4200 Rear Right
Cardone
2004 International 4300 Disc Brake Caliper - Rear Left Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper

P311-0502476    18-8058  Remanufactured

4C4Z2B120MB , 4C4Z2B120MA , 4C4Z2553AA , 8U9Z2B120AB , 2509254C91 , 4C4Z2B121MB , 4C4Z2190AA , 4C4Z2B121MA , 2501838C91 , 4C4Z2190DA

Qty:
$29.70 $72.17
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Rear Left
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper
  • with 73 mm Piston with Bosch Original Caliper Casting # 4153222 with Phenolic Piston Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2004 - International 4300 Rear Left
Cardone
1989 International 1652SC Disc Brake Caliper - Front Right Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper

P311-5A876DF    18-8000  Remanufactured

15618891 , 15514583 , 15566042 , 15615220 , 15501012 , 1658443C91 , 15608854 , 8156188910 , 55250BX , 55250

Qty:
$8.10 $63.50
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Front Right
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper
  • with 2.88" Piston Bendix Caliper with Phenolic Piston Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1989 - International 1652SC Front Right
Cardone
2008 International CF600 Disc Brake Caliper - Front Left Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper w/Bracket

P311-2A61DAD    18-B8047B  Remanufactured

5C3Z2B121BA

Qty:
$45.00 $62.95
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Front Left
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper w/Bracket
  • with Phenolic Piston Supplied with Mounting Bracket Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper w/Bracket
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2008 - International CF600 Front Left
Cardone
2008 International CF500 Disc Brake Caliper - Rear Left Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper w/Bracket

P311-2A61DAD    18-B8047B  Remanufactured

5C3Z2B121BA

Qty:
$45.00 $62.95
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Rear Left
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper w/Bracket
  • with Phenolic Piston Supplied with Mounting Bracket Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper w/Bracket
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2008 - International CF500 Rear Left
Cardone
2012 International TerraStar Disc Brake Caliper - Rear Right Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper w/Bracket

P311-273101F    18-B8046B  Remanufactured

5C3Z2B120BA , 5C3Z2B121BA

Qty:
$45.00 $62.95
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Rear Right
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper w/Bracket
  • with Phenolic Piston Supplied with Mounting Bracket Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper w/Bracket
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2012 - International TerraStar Rear Right
Cardone
2009 International CF600 Disc Brake Caliper - Front Right Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper w/Bracket

P311-273101F    18-B8046B  Remanufactured

5C3Z2B120BA , 5C3Z2B121BA

Qty:
$45.00 $62.95
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Front Right
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper w/Bracket
  • with Phenolic Piston Supplied with Mounting Bracket Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper w/Bracket
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2009 - International CF600 Front Right
Cardone
1987 International 1452SC Disc Brake Caliper - Front Right Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper

P311-4A8A650    18-8001  Remanufactured

1669311C91 , 582024C91

Qty:
$49.50 $59.62
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Front Right
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper
  • with 2.60" Piston Bendix Caliper without Two Center Brake Line Bracket Holes with Phenolic Piston Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1987 - International 1452SC Front Right
Cardone
1987 International M1600 Metro II Disc Brake Caliper - Rear Right Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper

P311-4A8A650    18-8001  Remanufactured

1669311C91 , 582024C91

Qty:
$49.50 $59.62
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Rear Right
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper
  • with 2.60" Piston Bendix Caliper without Two Center Brake Line Bracket Holes with Phenolic Piston Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1987 - International M1600 Metro II Rear Right
Cardone
1989 International 1452SC Disc Brake Caliper - Rear Left Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper

P311-4A8A650    18-8001  Remanufactured

1669311C91 , 582024C91

Qty:
$49.50 $59.62
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Rear Left
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper
  • with 2.60" Piston Bendix Caliper without Two Center Brake Line Bracket Holes with Phenolic Piston Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1989 - International 1452SC Rear Left
Cardone
1990 International 3800 Disc Brake Caliper - Rear Right Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper

P311-5A876DF    18-8000  Remanufactured

15618891 , 15514583 , 15566042 , 15615220 , 15501012 , 1658443C91 , 15608854 , 8156188910 , 55250BX , 55250

Qty:
$8.10 $63.50
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Rear Right
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper
  • with 2.88" Piston Bendix Caliper without Air Suspension with Phenolic Piston Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1990 - International 3800 Rear Right
Cardone
1994 International 1652SC Disc Brake Caliper - Rear Left Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper

P311-4A8A650    18-8001  Remanufactured

1669311C91 , 582024C91

Qty:
$49.50 $59.62
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Rear Left
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper
  • with 2.60" Piston Bendix Caliper without Air Suspension without Two Center Brake Line Bracket Holes with Phenolic Piston Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1994 - International 1652SC Rear Left
Cardone
1993 International 1652SC Disc Brake Caliper - Rear Left Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper

P311-5A876DF    18-8000  Remanufactured

15618891 , 15514583 , 15566042 , 15615220 , 15501012 , 1658443C91 , 15608854 , 8156188910 , 55250BX , 55250

Qty:
$8.10 $63.50
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Rear Left
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper
  • with 2.88" Piston Bendix Caliper without Air Suspension with Phenolic Piston Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1993 - International 1652SC Rear Left
Cardone
1993 International 1652SC Disc Brake Caliper - Front Left Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper

P311-5A876DF    18-8000  Remanufactured

15618891 , 15514583 , 15566042 , 15615220 , 15501012 , 1658443C91 , 15608854 , 8156188910 , 55250BX , 55250

Qty:
$8.10 $63.50
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Front Left
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper
  • with 2.88" Piston Bendix Caliper without Two Center Brake Line Bracket Holes with Phenolic Piston Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1993 - International 1652SC Front Left
Cardone
1990 International 3700 Disc Brake Caliper - Rear Left Cardone - Reman. Unloaded Caliper

P311-5A876DF    18-8000  Remanufactured

15618891 , 15514583 , 15566042 , 15615220 , 15501012 , 1658443C91 , 15608854 , 8156188910 , 55250BX , 55250

Qty:
$8.10 $63.50
Cardone Disc Brake Caliper  Rear Left
  • Remanufactured Unloaded Caliper
  • with 2.88" Piston Bendix Caliper without Air Suspension without Two Center Brake Line Bracket Holes with Phenolic Piston Installation Hardware Included
  • Reman. Unloaded Caliper
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Symptom Of A Low Brake Pedal Is Usually Caused By Air In The System, Misadjusted Brakes, Worn Brake Pads, A Deteriorated Flexible Brake Hose Or A Misadjusted Master Cylinder Push Rod.
      • As A Rule, Always Use Brake Fluid Recommended By O.e. The Fluid Type Is Stamped On The Master Cylinder Reservoir Lid. Always Use New Fluid In A Sealed Container.
      • Brake Squeal Is Usually Caused By Vibration. Always Make Sure The Pads Are Tight On The Caliper. Many Vehicles Required Clinching Of The Tabs To Assure A Tight Fit. Also, Make Sure The Rotors Were Cut With A Non-directional Finish And Use A Anti-squeal Co
      • Brakes Squeal All Of The Time. What's Causing The Squeal?
      • Check The Steering And Suspension. Then, Inspect Both Calipers For Binding Or Sticky Slides Or Pins. Check Brake Lining For Oil, Grease Or Uneven Wear. Inspect Brake Hoses For Restriction. Check For Proper Tire Pressure.
      • Could Calipers Be The Cause Of A Low Brake Pedal?
      • My Car Pulls To One Side During Braking. Why?
      • Phenolic Pistons Do Not Rust. Phenolic Pistons Are Not Affected By Heat Or Moisture In The Brake System And They Also Dampen Brake System Noise.
      • What Are The Advantages Of Phenolic Pistons Over Steel?
      • What Type Of Fluid Should I Use: Dot 3, Dot 4, Or Dot 5?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • A Plastic Cap Plug Protects Every Brake Port Thread To Ensure Trouble-free Installation.
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit.
      • Calipers Are Treated With A Special Formulated Rust Inhibitor And Kept In The Original Equipment Finish.
      • Mounting Bracket Is Included Where Applicable For A Hassle-free Installation.
      • New Banjo Bolts Are Included Where Applicable To Ensure A Perfect Fit And Quick Installation.
      • New Bleeder Screws Provide Trouble-free Bleeding And A Positive Seal.
      • New Stainless Steel Hardware Clips And New Mounting Pins Are Included Where Applicable.
      • New Washers Are Included Where Applicable For A Proper Seal.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%.
      • Pistons Are Durable, Resistant To Cracking Or Pitting And Handle Great Loads.
      • Rubber Seals Are Replaced With New High Temperature Epdm Rubber For Extended Life And Optimum Performance.
  • Expertly remanufactured to rigorous quality and performance standards, all CARDONE® Brake Calipers are equipped with brand-new, premium components to guarantee exceptional longevity and reliability. These remanufactured brake calipers are 100% pressure-tested to deliver consistent, industry-leading brake performance. Each unit arrives with a complete set of brand-new hardware for a simple, complete installation. Caliper bracket is included when applicable.
Brand: Cardone
Position: Rear Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1990 - International 3700 Rear Left

Latest International Repair and Brake Caliper Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Truck pulls to one side when I step on brake pedal

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From 888qqq on Truck pulls to one side when I step on brake pedal

When I step on the brake pedal of my 1992 Toyota pickup the truck pulls to the left or the driver's side. So can I conclude with almost 100% certainty that the passenger side brake caliper needs to be replaced because it's not working? Should I just go ahead and replace the passenger side caliper? Thanks for any replies.

Response From Hammer Time

I agree with nick. Always replace both sides and replace the flex hoses too. Make sure the slides are working good if it's not a double piston type.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

Brake parts are always replaced in sets to ensure matched braking, so you would need two calipers. Make sure the rubber hose isn't collapsed internally , which can cause the same symptoms.

brake caliper removal 95 Cherokee

Showing 2 out of 40 Posts | Show 38 Hidden Posts
Question From ZmanWA on brake caliper removal 95 Cherokee

Hello,

'95 Jeep Cherokee, 6.0 liter engine, 150K+ mileage

Trying to remove the front brake calipers so I can change pads and rotors. Have unscrewed the top and bottom bolts that should hold in place. Trying to slide out. Only moves slightly. Have tapped with rubber mallet. Any movement has something in the way to allow it to slide all the way out. What am I missing or what do I need to do here?

Thanks.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

There will be two bolts holding the caliper to the mount, then two large bolts holding the mount to the spindle. It is easier if you remove them individually. You'll need to depress the piston a bit, usually, to pull it off.

Response From Guest

I'll give this a try and get back. Thanks.

Response From Guest

OK, got them taken off - thanks. Just needed to be pried. ... Put on new pads and rotors. They went on OK but were very tight. They did go on. Drove the vehicle a couple miles and the right front started smoking. Seems like it was very tight. When clamping the caliper piston, it was very difficult to get the piston to suppress. Did it but it took way more effort than the other one. So two questions I guess...
1) will the pads simply wear in and be OK? Or not?
2) Given the situation with the caliper piston. Should it be replaced (is it a must)?

Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Seems like you are in the middle of this and Loren might be off line for a while so let me add my 2 cents:

You noted one more difficult to compress/push back than the other. Not good!

Ok: That's enough to worry right away but also need to know more. This is a judgement call on the overall corrosion condition of the caliper which isn't all that easy to guess but a warning is there that a frozen piston exists OR a flex hose has failed such that fluid return isn't happening.

If the wheel is dragging now (smoke with test drive on one side only isn't good of course) and just loosening the bleeder for a quick bleed frees that wheel right up then I'd replace both flex hoses and strongly consider the calipers too. In fact if you know they haven't been done it's about time anyway for that age vehicle.



If just like that the part is under $22 bucks and not worth ruining the job over or worse losing braking with them failed.

Be warned that if it's dragging now and you continue driving this it will ruin the pads and possibly warp the rotor that you just replaced!

You may notice that old pads were markedly more worn on one side - that's another warning that calipers and flex hoses are in the cards.

Hey - it does mean you will need to bleed out brakes which is best anyway. The metal line where it threads into flex hose if original or any rust/corrosion going on there will be a pest to remove and may break off requiring a replacement segment of the metal line or as far back as line is very good in a place to properly splice in a section.

Are you up for that?

If it breaks or twists up the line there you need to be ready with line, flaring tool, tubing cutter, to do a legal job of just a line section replacement. These tools aren't that expensive for basic work with lines and should be available at any parts store.

Whatever you do just know it can domino into more work like this. Do youself a favor and go put some penetrating oil on that flare nut to flex hose connection now to have a better chance of it behaving for you later - still might not. The OE Crysler flare nuts were long sleeved over the line and were a nightmare with any rust there to remove without twisting them up.

Be ready if you go there,

T

Ps: Loren - you can give me and Kitty a punch for jumping in or fix my confusion of this

Response From Guest

Tom,

Here are some answers for you to ponder. Know that I am clearly an amateur.
* It seems replacing the right caliper is the thing to do. Do I need to put in two new ones or is doing just one OK?
* Old rotors appeared to be OK visually, but there was a shimmy when braking so I got new ones.
* I'm not comfortable performing any "operation" on the hoses. I usually get decent advice at the auto parts store if they simply show me the new part and I make a straight put the new one in replacing the old one.
*Obviously I need to do this right so the vehicle is safe, but I don't want to sink any more $$$ than needed - thus the do it myself approach.
Thanks for all your help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf


Know that I am clearly an amateur.

Got it! Brake work is not a good place to learn the hard way - we all agree on that one. Ok: Generally brakes, some suspension items, tires are replaced in pairs. With brakes I'll say that if one side failed then the other is probably close to failure anyway. You just can't see what the inside of the caliper or flex hose looks like so a warning is enough and there is one with this. Your money and your call on doing it in pairs or one by one. I strongly suggest pairs especially with brake hydraulic parts. Nobody is here to waste money but not replacing something now may cost you problems later and ruin what you already did too and again we are talking brakes so the $$ for making them safe doesn't factor in as much. It's hard to say if this is a caliper problem or the hose acting up on ONE wheel if I'm reading right so far. It's actually rare for both sides to fail at once in this manner. Usually a frozen (rusted, corroded, piston or caliper mounting parts/pins) show up before you get there. Vehicle would pull to one side when braking or some complaint up front. The caliper if frozen piston to wall may free up by just retracting it making you think it's fine and it isn't. Lot's of shops don't like doing brake work without tossing this for new each time - costly but safer approach. Brake hose is just a part to replace. The line is something you make up yourself from line and make the flare for it and bend it to original line's position. Cheap parts - fussy for a first time and REALLY GREAT if you could get someone to show you just how to work with them and practice on some peices on the bench to see how it all works. With any violation of brake fluid you risk troubles bleeding them out - be it fussy systems, rusted bleeders, or a master cylinder that decides to quit at the same time from pumping brakes to floor where they haven't been in ages and it tears up the seals in it! "Domino Effect" - folks think we're out to get them - no..... stuff happens! ************** Are you comfortable with changing just the calipers for now or only the one for now if you must? That will require bleeding the front system anyway - you do know that - right? If not you may want to get help or send it out now. Do you feel comfortable doing the test for the flex line discussed already? It may not be the caliper at all right now. However if this stuff is all original in a 1995 there's no waste in tossing all of it IMO. Hit back with what you feel you can do or if you can get help or what, T

Response From Guest

OK, went out of town for a day and am back at it today. Got new calipers and put them on. Went very well. No leaks, fit great, pretty simple operation really. Now trying to bleed the brakes and do it right. Have tried to do it twice but they continue to feel spongy, so there must be air in the line. Perhaps you have some tips. Let me share what I've been doing and then you can correct/instruct.

Made sure master cylinder tank was full. Started with front passenger side then moved to driver's side. There is very little fluid coming out unless I have partner pump the brakes. Does this mean there happens to be A LOT of air in there?

I instruct partner to push. When they verify they are pushing I open the valve on the caliper. This is where I'm unclear. What exactly am I looking for so I know when to close the valve and tell partner to release? With so little fluid coming out it is hard to detect air.

Hopefully I'm missing something simple. Thanks for your help. You've been great!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

As Tom had mentioned, it is very easy to 'rupture' the seals of the master cylinder while bleeding. You want to be very careful while doing this. Have a helper press gently on the brake pedal. (Tell him to not let the pedal go all the way to the floor.) Open the RF bleeder just a bit, letting the fluid out slowly. Watch for air bubbles. Close it off before too much fluid comes out. It is a slow process, but taking your time will lessen the chances of damaging the master. Have your helper pump the pedal slowly, a couple of times, then repeat the process. (pumping it quickly can aeriate the fluid, causing MORE bubbles). Continue doing this until no more air bubbles are present; Then, move to the LF. If the master cylinder went dry while you were changing the calipers, it's possible that you've got air in the rear half, as well, in which case, you'll need to bleed the rears starting at the RR, then LR. Remember, if you got air in the rear, it will be all of the way up front, and will take some bleeding to get the air to the rear of the vehicle. On both the front and rear, if you can get the fluid to move on it's own (gravity bleeding), that's the best and safest way.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks Loren for kicking in with this as it may do the Domino thing. I'll be off line most of Tues, 30th but right back.

ZmanWA

Sign in if you think of it so we know it's you. It will still post as you've seen.

To add as this is the whole "enchilada" going on: Eventually pedal will feel firmer and the squirt from bleeding will be more than a dribble. Know that now that calipers aren't frozen they retract like they should so aren't going to feel hard as a rock like frozen ones AND new pads even with new rotors can take a while to set themselves to each other so the "feel" of brakes should improve over the first 200ish miles of assorted use and stay stable from about there.

If you are still not convinced they feel proper - adjustment of rear especially if drum (disc style self adjust by nature and drum type can need help when a bit older) will restore a more proper feeling pedal. That's a page of notes just to do that right too.

Also note: The new caliper was empty so you plain know there was air to remove.

When ready for good test run, give gentle but sure stops at first. Again - brand new stuff doesn't always feel perfect right out of the gate but will (should) be secure rather quickly with a few stops. When in biz - all brake jobs went out for a good ride before customer got it back.

If bleeding really rears it's ugly head we can work on some tricks or blame the master at some point. Hang in there,

T

Response From Guest

OK, got all the lines bled. First did the gravity thing. That took a long time but cleared the lines pretty good. Followed it up by doing all four wheels in proper order using the clear tube into a clear bottle of fluid to see the bubbles (worked very well).

Have taken on a 1-mile test drive with multiple stops. Two symptoms to diagnose now. Brake pedal is not firm. It must be depressed quite a ways before brakes engage. When they do, they work smoothly & efficiently. Also, the brake light is "on" all the time now (as if the parking brake is engaged).

Thoughts?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Sounds like you've still got some air in the lines. Should have a nice, firm, pedal. If drum brakes in rear, be sure they are properly adjusted. Sometimes, it takes a few miles for the pads/shoes to seat. Also, once the pedal has been 'pumped' a few times, caliper pistons extended, should re-bleed the calipers. Hopefully, once all of the air is out of the system and master cylinder full, brake warning light will go out. If not, will need to do some more diagnostics. (sure hope you're not an English teacher..looking at spelling and punctuation)

Response From ZmanWA

Don't teach English! Hopefully I'm just getting my thoughts across though. ... I'm more than willing to do it all again. Just so you're clear, saw no air bubbles until the final wheel (LF). On first pump there were several, second pump there was one, third pump none. Did a 4th pump to be sure and no bubbles.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Whew! Not an English teacher. You are doing an excellent job of getting your thoughts through, btw. It's hard for me to get mine through. Just keep at it, and I'm sure you'll get it.

Response From ZmanWA

Loren,

I have never worked on rear brakes ever and honestly don't know anything about doing that - how to adjust, etc. The drums haven't come off at this point. Would they not simply be functioning the same as they had before I worked on the front?

What can you tell me (if anything) about the volume of air I'm finding in the lines? Does this amount seem possible without some additional issue?

I'm asking remedial questions I'm sure, but simply don't know a lot. Thanks!

Zman

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

You are right. The rear brakes should be functioning as before. And, unless the master cylinder went empty, there shouldn't be any air in the rear brakes. That's what's puzzling. There are two bolts holding the master cylinder to the power booster unit. You can remove the nuts and pull the master forward just enough to feel or see if it is leaking any fluid out of the rear. You should be able to do this without disconnecting the brake lines. It's not unusual to find a master leaking fluid externally, into the booster unit, but it is rare for one to suck in air. If there is any fluid present at the rear of the master where it goes into the booster, then it needs to be replaced. Assuming you have no other leaks, that's the only place that I can think of that air could be getting into the system. Back to the bleeding procedure; With the brake pedal depressed (I prefer gravity bleeding, but is slow), you open the bleeder, allow fluid to come out, then close the bleeder before the pedal is allowed back. Just wanted to make sure!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok - I see this is going along fast as a shot once again.

Zman - I agree that back brakes really need to be at least inspected AND how the parking brake works is a clue of their condition and or if out of adjustment. The original "star" adjusters common to drum brakes work pretty good for the first round or several years and then kinda give up and can need manual adjustment vs the automatic that virtually all are and will self adjust when brakes are applied while backing up - they quit that in most or at least in my experience.

Drum brakes were once the 99.9% of all brakes by style and now seem old fashioned and confusing when you first look at them and all their springs and things. It's real "Erector Set" stuff - primal mechanics really.

They were probably far off proper adjustment (has a lot to do with pedal travel) in the first place but wasn't noticed because "frozen" calipers or even snug in the front covered up how loose the backs really were. Now that fronts are free to retract with new calipers (you don't really see them retract but they do) that accounts for more pedal travel which would be normal. Brakes need some freeplay before engagement or they would be dragging which is what happened already. That freeplay is the room for them to retract and first inch or so of travel is waste to get linings to touch their respective rotor or drums - then you feel the resistance in the pedal.

I'm getting more confident that air is now bled out of this and not the cause of "spongy" pedal/low pedal. Now it's either back brakes or the master cylinder has gone out - perhaps unseen as Loren mentioned. If back bleeders can really shoot out brake fluid with a bleed by pump and hold with helper the master cylinder is less suspect IMO for now but always a possibility in the cards.

BTW - Replacing the master in many isn't all that difficult or expensive - not sure on exact price of this one and don't if not needed clearly yet.

Again - hang in there. This is our test too, to convey what we know to you and the busted knuckes it took to get to know it!

T

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

Loren
You caught me; it is Tequila in the bottle. When I'm done bleeding brakes, I fill the bottle with Tequila; attach a needle to the hose and use it as an intravenous. The only problem is the dam worm keeps blocking the hose. LOL

Zman
One way of determining whether the low pedal is a hydraulic issue or mechanical at the wheels; is to LIGHTLY pinch off the flex hoses with vise grips.
If when all the flex lines (front & rear) are pinched off and the pedal is rock hard, with every little travel; you know that the problem is at the wheels. If so; by releasing one line at a time you can narrow it down further, as to which wheel(s).

If the pedal is still crap, with the lines pinched; then it’s a hydraulic issue. As in; air in the system, the master cylinder or possibly an issue with the ABS unit?
With the red light on; I’m leaning towards a hydraulic issue?
Why I say master cylinder or ABS unit is that when you first began on this journey and pushed the caliper pistons back; possibly some form of dirt was pushed back into one of these and is causing an internal leak?
If there is an internal leak; it will be hard to determine where or who is at fault. Is it the master cylinder that is by-passing pressure because of damaged/dirty seals or is it the ABS unit absorbing the pressure in its accumulator(s); again because of a damaged/dirty dump valve?

It’s the small things that can cause you the problems. What I always make my techs do when compressing a caliper piston into its bore; is to open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to escape there, rather then be forced back into the system.
It’s kind of like the old saying; let sleeping dogs lie, if you don’t want to be bitten.
But that’s water under the bridge now; let us know what you find and we’ll go from there?
If this does turn out to be hydraulic; it maybe time to take the truck in and have the system flushed/bled; by someone that has a pressure bleeder?

Dan.

PS: You have to remember that all of the suggestions here are just that; plus this is starting to sound like a hand’s on type of problem and I’d hate for you to be sent in the wrong direction because of our speculations.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

>>The only problem is the dam worm keeps blocking the hose<< That's hillarious!!!

Response From ZmanWA

The only thing I can try now given my level of knowledge is to go through the basic process a few times with some patience and see if it gets resolved. If not, then I'll have to take it in. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Zman: I'm back and unless power goes out with a storm here in Massa-two-shoots will get you thru whatever crops up best I can. I hope the guys have something better to do tonight than more car stuff

If you are continuing right thru (New Years Day) with this get any supplies now - take back what you don't need later. Stock up on brake fluid and perhaps get a "hardware" kit for rear brakes and maybe the "star" adjusters - that only if they are drum brakes! While there if you do that get "brake spring pliers" (not much $) and a "return spring" tool - you can fake that with good pliers too if you don't want but hard for return springs without the right tool - pretty universal for drum brakes.

If need be as this thread go long fast, make a summary of where you are at and post a new thread. It can get hard to follow what's already been done or discovered when this long.

Good luck. It can work if you have the patience and a box of band aids!

T

Response From ZmanWA

Per your request, here is where I've been and where I'm at. '95 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 L 6-cyl.
Replaced front rotors, brake pads and with help both calipers. Went fine.
Sought help in how to bleed brake lines because initially wasn't doing it correctly.
Have implemented use of suggested bottle to see bubbles (that has worked great)
Went around to all wheels in order RR, LR, RF, LF, bled each until no bubbles. Brake pedal was solid until vehicle started.
Test drove. Brakes worked well but pedal needed to be depressed a long ways + brake light was on.
Told to continue the process.
Did so twice around the system, removing air bubbles each time. Brake light went off OK
That is where it stood this AM, with a need to continue the process.

Spent the last couple hours removing air from the system. Put in about a 1/2 gallon of fluid to steadily replace that being released during the process (there are no apparent leaks anywhere). The bubbles do not seem to be slowing up let alone going away. Test drove again. Brakes work great but pedal still must be pushed nearly to the floor & brake light is staying on again.

Do not want to touch the rear brakes. Just not comfortable opening that can of worms. Is there simply an amazing amount of air in this system and thus continue what I've been doing? Is air somehow entering the system? Thoughts?

Thanks!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Zman; It sounds as though, even though you don't want to, you're gonna have to take a look at the rear brakes.
Check the cylinders for leakage, of course. If everything is kosher, adjust the rear brakes as needed. It's best to do this while the tires are off, removing the drum for each adjustment. You will want to adjust them to the point that you can still get the drum back on. If the emergency brake pedal goes down quite a ways before it's tight, that's a good indicator that the rear brakes are out of adjustment. Yes, the e-brake cable is adjustable, but shouldn't need to be dealt with if the rear brakes are properly adjusted.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

WOW! Did this thread take off! Now we have the bleeder bottle and lots of tricks out so I'll just make a quick note on the brake feel and the brake light being on as has been touched upon already - a bit.

New brakes will be softer feeling till "broken" in as Loren said.

Maybe - can't be sure - but in all this pumping (no jokes please) the master has given up OR that light is also there to tell/warn of a "front/rear" imbalance of pressure. It's not high on the likely list at this point but a good maybe that the trigger switch for this is off center. Arggh - I think Jeep may have used a GM style "combination" valve and sometimes when off center as would happen if one end had a failure would make the light, light. If that's the only case then with pressure applied and being held by a helper you slowly bleed a front or rear (even a line right at the master cyl) and watch for light to go out. DON'T allow fluid to stop flowing - just a leak down which can recenter that (proportioning/metering valve) such that light will go out. Unsure if front or back is the culprit if it is this at all so may need to try both ways. Some may still use a rubber like button that might recenter the sucker without doing anything but pushing it too. Man - that's old stuff but Jeep of all critters has been historical at using older items than the model years might suggest.

It's just on the "maybe" list. May have been mentioned already - adjustment (if drum rear brakes) and an inspection of rear brakes would be a great idea making sure parking brake isn't sticking too or was not fully retracting and just now showing up.

Note: Rear drum brakes are a great part of pedal feel and if not close really add to pedal travel........

T

Response From Guest

Went through the process again - twice to be thorough. Got plenty of bubbles cleared out both times through. Tested the pedal and solid as a rock and the brake light was out too. Then.... started the vehicle. The pedal went "soft" immediately. Thoughts?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Spend more time at each wheel. Open RR bleeder, go have a beer. Open LR bleeder, go have another. Open RF bleeder, have another. Open LF bleeder, well, you've probably had enough. Just takes patience. And perserverance.

Response From ZmanWA

Sorry I wrote twice. Didn't see Page 2. Time I've got, so no problem. I was concerned because it felt like it was done and then changed as soon as I started the vehicle. I'll likely report back tomorrow.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

With power brakes, your pedal will feel high and 'hard' after a pump or two with the engine off, but will go down further once the engine starts and vacuum is applied to the power booster.

Response From ZmanWA

Did it all again - two times. Cleared a lot more air out. Pedal felt very solid when all done. Then started the vehicle and the pedal went soft immediately. Thought on this?

Response From ZmanWA

OK, got all the lines bled. First did the gravity thing. That took a long time but cleared the lines pretty good. Followed it up by doing all four wheels in proper order using the clear tube into a clear bottle of fluid to see the bubbles (worked very well).

Have taken on a 1-mile test drive with multiple stops. Two symptoms to diagnose now. Brake pedal is not firm. It must be depressed quite a ways before brakes engage. When they do, they work smoothly & efficiently. Also, the brake light is "on" all the time now (as if the parking brake is engaged).

Thoughts?

Response From Guest

Loren,

I really want to make sure this is done right since this is such a major safety factor. I'm reading a lot of variables that can cause issues -- that concerns me. I don't want to cause further problems.

Please tell me more about gravity bleeding. How is that done? If it is best and safest I'd like to try it. Time in on my side with this.

Other than that will go through the process slowly and deliberately. Hopefully nothing has been damaged so far. If not, should be able to solve this.

Thanks again!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Gravity bleeding is just that. You open the RR bleeder and let it bleed on it's own. Takes a while, though. Sometimes, if there's much air in the system, you may need to do the pedal thing to get the fluid moving; But, once it starts moving, it will bleed on it's own. Just need to keep the master cylinder full while doing so. Then, the RR, RF, LF. Once you are done, pump the pedal a few times until you get a 'good' pedal, then go back and hit them again, just to be sure you've got all of the air out.

Response From Guest

I think I'll try this. ... When I open a valve to let it bleed on it's own and it starts to flow, what exactly am I looking for? I presume there won't be heavy flow levels. Is that correct? How do I know when it is done and valve closed?

If I understand you right and if I need to pump the brakes just do it slow and gently. 2-3 times?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

When you see nice, new, fluid coming out of the bleeder...with NO air bubbles, you'll be done. Thanks for being a teacher, btw... A VERY important career. Which means, you have a LOT of patience! LOL.

Response From ZmanWA

Thanks. I'll get more fluid in the morning and then tackle this. I'll report back so you know how this turns out - hopefully without any further issues.

Response From DanD

Sorry to jump in here, so far into a thread but it seems that you’re having a problem figuring out when you’ve got the air out of the system.
What I’ve done with my apprentices, while training them on proper brake bleeding; is to have them use a bleeder bottle.



Easy to make and it takes all the doubt out of; is there’s still air in the system?
Any type of clear bottle, a rubber hose that will fit the bleeder screw snuggly and is long enough to reach to the bottom of the bottle; while attached to the bleeder screw.
Here’s how to use it; put about an inch of brake fluid into the bottle, place hose into bottle so that the end of the hose is submerged into the fluid.
Place your wrench on the bleeder screw and then attach the other end of hose to the screw.
Have your helper pump the brake pedal as described above in previous posts.
Open the bleeder screw and watch the bubbles coming out of the hose end that is in the bottle.
When there are no more bubbles; close the bleeder screw and you’re done.
As tempting as it may be; do NOT reuse the brake fluid in the bleeder bottle!
There may be contaminates in the fluid picked up from the hose, the bottle or whatever that could damage the hydraulic system.

Keep it fun and when it’s not anymore; take the vehicle in!

Dan.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Dan; Is that brake fluid in the bottle? Looks a little more like Tequila?

Response From Guest

Dan,

I'll give this a try today. Love simple solutions. This has been fun so far.

Response From ZmanWA

Tom,

Signed in for you. Didn't realize I wasn't logged on. ... Going to try to gravity bleed tomorrow (I teach am off school all week so I have time). I've never fully understood the bleeding process. I've always been the helper!

I'm sure you're right that the new calipers were full of air + the system did endure some pumping (likely too much) during the first time through. Hopefully nothing is damaged and the "domino thing" doesn't happen. There are no apparent leaks. Want to proceed in the safest way possible. Assuming I don't break anything can get this done and actually learn something for the future.

Any and all advice (in layman's terms) will be truly appreciated. Have accomplished a lot so far in large part to you guys!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Tom and Kitty are right on! I'd recommend replacing the calipers in pairs. Nowadays, they are relatively inexpensive, and usually come with pads. The phenolic pistons tend to 'bind' in the caliper and cause what you are experiencing. The manufacturers' went to the phenolic from stainless to save weight and they tend to dissapate heat better. But...

Left front brake won't work

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From bill7947 on Left front brake won't work

I have a 1980 Plymouth Horizon race car. The car set for six years. When I raced it again, the brakes pulled. I raised the front and checked the front brakes. I noticed that the left front brake was not working. I replaced the brake caliper, but I am unable to get any brake fluid to come out at the bleed screw, when I try to bleed the brakes. The right side bleeds ok. Is there another problem that could cause the left front brake to not work and for there to be to brake fluid present at the bleeder screw?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Bill; It is very possible that you may have a faulty brake hose going to that caliper. The hose can delaminate internally. See if you can get fluid at the fitting where the steel line connects to the hose.
btw; I'm confused; Horizon/race car?

Response From bill7947

Loren, thank you for providing your suggestion, I will definitely check the hose. As for the Horizon/race car, it is an obsure class in NHRA drag racing. Not too many people run in the class anymore. I will be racing at the NHRA National Event in Las Vegas this weekend, maybe with only brakes at three wheels. Thank you, Bill

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

>>it is an obsure class in NHRA drag racing<< No doubt! What kind of times/speed? I'm almost falling asleep thinking about it.

Response From bill7947

I ran a 16.73 ET at 79.30 MPH last month at a NHRA race at Bakersfield. Before you laugh too hard, I run in stock eliminator and the modifications allowed to the car are severely restricted. That run qualified me number 10 in a field of 54 stock eliminator entries, I hope that gives me some credibability. I was also fighting with brakes that would not hold the car at the starting line, I normally leave at full throttle, and brakes that were making the care weave all over the shut off area. By the way, I like your truck. I have a 2005 that looks like the same model.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Okay. I'm impressed. That's pretty decent, considering. That's usually when I go get a beer, right after the Funny Cars and Fuelers run. But, I'll watch for you at Vegas. I'm sure it will be televised. What color is your car, or how will I know it's you?

Response From bill7947

They will not show my class on TV. They save the TV coverage for the Fuelers, Funnys and Pro Stockers. The car is a brown 1980 Plymouth 4-door Horizon, it cannot get much worse that that! The car has been named the little brown t*** by competitors I have beaten. It will be the slowest car, based on elapsed times, in competition.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

You mentioned earlier that you leave the line under full power. Are you suggesting that it is an automatic? OH MY. I'm sorry. Just can't help it. Good luck to you.

brake bleeding following brake replacement

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on brake bleeding following brake replacement

I have a 96 plymouth voyager 3.3ltr with approx 127000 miles on it. my boyfriend replaced the front brakes yesterday with no problem and we bled the brakes. When turning on the car and test driving it the pedal was soft and went right to the floor. we did not bleed the back brakes as they are drum brakes (he could not find the bleeder screw) and now I have no brakes and no money or way to take it to a garage and am at a complete loss as to what to do. Please help us!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

If front brake caliper pistons were just pushed back such that fluid just returned to master cylinder then it may have pushed back icky fluid. There are way to do that without that trick.

More: There are bleeding procedures if with ABS. May be bleeder along the way too to do in order.

More II: Once new pads are installed brakes may not feel their best for a period of time but work safely. Once pistons are retracted in calipers to make room for the new the first several attemps to bleed brakes may (near always) allows braked pedal to go to floor and can tear up seals in master cylinder as the internals of that haven't been there in a while so it could be the issue too. Needs some hand on diagsosing IMO!

T

Response From Hammer Time

It's also possible that when bleeding the front, he allowed the master cylinder reservoir to go empty at some point and now has drawn air into the whole system.

It sounds like he never should have bled it at all but at this point needs more bleeding in the front.

Brake pressure failure - air in caliper but no fluid loss

Showing 3 out of 24 Posts | Show 21 Hidden Posts
Question From East Coast Resident on Brake pressure failure - air in caliper but no fluid loss

I have a brake issue with my Dodge Caravan that I just can't wrap my head around. I am quite experienced with auto repair as I formaly worked in a auto salvage yard for 17 years and have always maintained my own vehicles. However, I am not an expert and I am at a loss.

The vehicle in question is a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan sport. 3.8L AOD FWD with ABS and 4 wheel disc brakes.

The issue is that every 3 or 4 days the brake peddle gets spongy and goes to the floor. This has been going on now for about two months and all I need to do to temporarily correct the issue is bleed the left front brake caliper and that's it. It has air in it every time and the fluid is infused with air and has gone frothy. The only time I have to add fluid is after several bleedings. Where this air is coming from, I have no idea. Over the past year or so, due to age and milage, the van has had 4 new brake calipers with new pads, 4 new rotors, one new right rear flex line (brake hose, steel line hybrid type) and has had a complete brake fluid flush. I have pumped around 4L of new, dot 3 through the system and there's nothing but clean, clear brake fluid at all four corners and yet every 3 to 4 days the left front caliper develops a pocket of air that totally kills brake pressure. And the air is right there at the bleeder screw. Three pumps, one twist of the bleeder and it's gone and the peddle is high and hard. The brake peddle is perfect for the next day or two and then the pressure slowly decreases. In a bypassing master cylinder, repeated pumps can bring back the pressure but that doesn't work very well in my situation because I have air in the left front caliper every time. I have bled the entire system 3 times and I have lost track of how many times I have bled that left front caliper. My ABS unit is non-functional and has been defective long before this brake issue started, so I'm reluctant to blame it. I'm at a loss. Am I missing something? Is it at all possible for a breach in the front brake hose to pull in air upon release of the peddle and yet hold pressure when pressing the brake?

It's very puzzling. Please help. I need this van to last another year until I finish trade school.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Frothy fluid could be created by master cylinder but would think brakes would never have a true normal feel with bleeding out just one.
Is ABS light on? Get codes for that.


Still think there's a high chance master cylinder is the cause. Hard to tell as you said brake goes to floor but it almost cant have zero braking power just a little bit left as the master is really two separate pressure pumps in one unit. If any chance wrong fluid as in an oil has ever had a chance to get in this everything rubber could be bad and fail.
There's only a slight chance if you did it and knew it right away that oil would float and a chance you could suck it all out before ever touching brake pedal.
Clues to contamination if it's that at all would show bloated rubber filler cap seal pretty quickly almost always,


T

Response From kev2

some thoughts-
there is no pulling to one side.
ANY evidence of fluid on leakage.
you are using correct DOT rated fluid.
check the rotor run out.
the flex hose give it a good inspection.
excess heat that side

Response From East Coast Resident

some thoughts-
there is no pulling to one side.
ANY evidence of fluid on leakage.
you are using correct DOT rated fluid.
check the rotor run out.
the flex hose give it a good inspection.
excess heat that side

Thanks for your input!
No, no pulling to the left, no abnormal heat on that corner, no sticking, no leaks, it's the correct dot rating, rotors and calipers are less than 8 months old and the fluid has all been flushed in an effort to correct this issue. 4 litres of brake fluid have been run through the system plus some small bottles, I have a hard time believing there's any air in there now. I've stood up on the Brake peddle to the point where I thought I'd bust a brake hose for sure, but no leaks and no fluid loss since this all started.
Just to clearify, this issue happened out of the blue. The 4 calipers, rotors and rear flex line had been replaced months before this issue even surfaced. One day in october, my wife came home and said that the brake peddle had gone spongy on her and I was sure that it was a brake hose but there was no leaks and the reservoir was still full. From that day on, I have not been able to correct the issue. I'm willing to replace the master cylinder because it's not a cost or labour issue, it's a matter of is it even the cause. I've bled that left front caliper every 3 to 4 days of vehicle use since October and once I crack that bleeder open just once, a tiny bit of air comes out, followed by a tiny bit of frothy brake fluid and then, clear fluid with no air. I even removed the caliper, emptied it, flushed with fresh fluid, reinstalled it, bled it and still no improvement. The air returns every 3 to 4 days. I thought that maybe, just maybe, there might have been some water contamination from when it was new and that the water was boiling during regular use. I'm really stretching the limits of possibility with that, I know.
I may just replace that left front brake hose and then go for the master cylinder but is it at all possible that now, after the 12 months or so that it's been non-functional, that the ABS unit is causing this issue with just that one brake caliper?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Dot 3 brake fluid or above #s wouldn't be a cause directly.
Said already a master cylinder COULD do this and reading outside the box bleeding out FL is the closest line so it could behave at least better for some time.
IDK - Google out what the guts of a master cyl. looks like inside. It's a machined bore with a specifically made shaft that holds rubber one way seals almost exactly the concept of an old "T" handle air pump...... push down the seal then seals. Push slow it doesn't. On return up in the air pump it lets air pass the seal. The master is similar as it lets fluid pass the seal when brake released. What can happen is under wild pressure it isn't sealing so even minute passage of brake fluid could foam up as there's some % however low of moisture in brake fluid that will alter it totally for it's temp and rubber friendly properties but also with some time the moisture will ruin parts along the way via corrosion. Dot 5 I believe is pure Silicone and not hygroscopic with the highest boiling point but any moisture will settle to the lowest points and need that product change out on a routine.
Seems you've ruled out or replace most other things just hope new was good.
It would be excellent to know for sure by plugging up where lines go to master but it wouldn't do the failure fast enough to be sure in this case and IMO. I doubt it's expensive so it's a highly likely item to cause this is possibly the best that can be known,


T
(PS: Doubt Maine allows remanufactured master cylinders (MA doesn't) but if they do go new. I don't think you could see or machine out the flaw I would bet this one has nor if a redone one had the same flaw so start new only please)

Response From Hammer Time

I seriously doubt the master cylinder would cause this. Air rises to the top. It doesn't run down hill to the wheels.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I can't know exactly what "foamy/frothy" air means for this and never really found that just carbonated bubbles to bleed out and stayed out once gone. If this thing is making "whipped cream" out of fluid or something now I wonder about contamination more?
There probably is more to this than any one thing now considering contamination?


T

Response From kev2

Some thoughts - You claim that all checks have been done - it is a DOT 3 requirement, the issue was there before new parts,
scan for ABS codes - yes even if light is off.
Then use scanner to do the ABS bleed procedure...
as mentioned rotor run out check..
guide pins free no corrosion.

Response From East Coast Resident

Some thoughts - You claim that all checks have been done - it is a DOT 3 requirement, the issue was there before new parts,
scan for ABS codes - yes even if light is off.
Then use scanner to do the ABS bleed procedure...
as mentioned rotor run out check..
guide pins free no corrosion.

I mentioned above that my ABS unit is non-functional. Trouble lights are lit. I scanned the ABS system for codes a years ago when it quit on me. The code was for a loss of power to the pump. I checked it out and power and grounds are available to all necessary wires at plug. The unit is defective and is $350 plus shipping and since it had not been effecting brake performance, I left it as is. The brake pressure was unaffected and working perfectly up until two months ago when the left front caliper started developing tiny pockets of air. The caliper is not sticking, pads are wearing equally on both sides and the fluid is fresh, clean DOT3.
I apologize to the more experiences technicians here, but I am not inexperienced. I have replaced many defective master cylinders due to bypassing issues and I am well aware of their internal structure. In the case of a bypassing master cylinder, swift and firm pumping will momentarily return brake pressure and in severe cases, the peddle will slowly drop to the floor in a fairly short period of time. In none of these cases will it introduce air at the brake caliper end of the line. I've even seen them leak into the brake booster, mine is not leaking.

Response From Hammer Time

The only time I've experienced this is in the older Corvettes. If the rotors were not turning true, the calipers would pump air into themselves but those were 4 piston calipers and a very uncommon design. I've never seen it happen to any other car.

Response From East Coast Resident

The only time I've experienced this is in the older Corvettes. If the rotors were not turning true, the calipers would pump air into themselves but those were 4 piston calipers and a very uncommon design. I've never seen it happen to any other car.

My rotors are straight and true. The van stops very smoothly when the peddle is good. I've had really warped rotors on several vehicles and have never heard of a caliper pumping air into a system. Where would the air come from? Can anyone else confirm this? I can't wrap my mind around it.

Response From Hammer Time

Oh believe me. It is a fact. I've been in this business over 50 years and I resolved that issue for many corvette owners. The rotor had to be shimmed to less that .005" runout and the problem disappeared. It happened to me on 2 of my own vehicles but i blame it on the design of the caliper pistons.

Response From East Coast Resident

Hammer Time,
what were the vehicles you owned that had this issue and was there fluid leakage at the caliper seals. I took a look at mine today when I changed that brake hose and it still looks new. Still has the black paint and there's no leakage at all.

Response From Hammer Time

They were both Corvettes and neither one exhibited any pulsation.

You have to remove the wheel and put the lug nuts back on the rotor and use a dial indicator. I used to use that metal based AC duct tap as shim material. Again, I have never seen this happen on anything but a Corvette.

Response From East Coast Resident

Ok, I've never worked on a corvette and that's probably why I've never seen it at all. I must say though, this van has had warped rotors before and they had never caused any issues like this.

Response From kev2 Top Rated Answer

Two things I see-
the mentioned runout BUT it is looking like the ABS ( HCU) might be the issue... the internal valves that separate the channels, I'm Looking for a test that may help...
there were no models made without an ABS system so we cannot eliminate - change to a non ABS model. BUT I will look.
Have you looked at your trade (salvage?) as a source for parts?

Response From East Coast Resident

Yeah, I had a used ABS unit in my possession about 3 weeks ago but it was totally different when I compared both. Evidently, the yard had inventoried it incorrectly. Different electrical plug and line locations.
I have to tell you though, when I got a look at mine, I was not impressed with it's condition. I live on a rock out in the North Atlantic! St. John's, Newfoundland. Vehicles corrode extremely bad here and I give up rust proofing this van 5 years ago.
I had blamed the ABS unit initially but figured it was sitting there for about 10 months without causing any issues.
Do you really think the unit is causing small pockets of air in the caliper?

Response From East Coast Resident

OK, it was December 17th since we last discussed the break issue on my 2003 Grand Caravan. I hope everyone is having a great Christmas and I wish you a happy and safe New Year.
The news has been good I my end so far. I swapped out the left front brake hose back on December 19th and I'm happy to inform you that the brake peddle has been great ever since. The problem would typically reoccur after 3 or 4 days and thus far it's been good. I don't know if it was a fluke but the ABS unit is still not working, the brake warning lights are still lit but there is no more air developing at the bleeder screw. The brake peddle has been great ever since. Honestly, I'm still waiting for the peddle to drop.
On another note, A friend of mine who was a mechanic for years did hear about the leaking caliper issue and he suspected that was my issue. It happened to him on a vehicle that was not a Corvette. I forget what it was.
Here's hoping I never have an issue with this again, It drove me absolutely nuts!

Response From kev2

agree with colleague -- the exact reason* I mentioned run out 2 times. Not an overly difficult check- esp after all the work done.
I will look into the ABS issue- as the full brake bleed will use a scanner to operate ABS- so called unintended consequences of disabling.


* corvette was the ' memory' jogger.

Response From East Coast Resident

agree with colleague -- the exact reason* I mentioned run out 2 times. Not an overly difficult check- esp after all the work done.
I will look into the ABS issue- as the full brake bleed will use a scanner to operate ABS- so called unintended consequences of disabling.


* corvette was the ' memory' jogger.

Just to confirm...are you saying that rotor run out, no matter how imperceptible, can cause a caliber to pump air back into the hydraulic system? I have never heard of this. Air would have to enter through the dust seal and inner seal. This seems impossible considering there is no brake fluid leaking from there.

Response From kev2

HT and I are confirming the runout issue we have seen and dealt with.
taking my time to look at manual - what I see so far run out .0014in.
there are 2 non interchangeable calipers and rotors.... A TRW and Tevis system.. Do you have traction control?
Time permitting I will look at the ABS - A 4 channel system may yield a clue

Response From East Coast Resident

HT and I are confirming the runout issue we have seen and dealt with.
taking my time to look at manual - what I see so far run out .0014in.
there are 2 non interchangeable calipers and rotors.... A TRW and Tevis system.. Do you have traction control?
Time permitting I will look at the ABS - A 4 channel system may yield a clue

Four wheel disk, no traction control.

Response From East Coast Resident

Oh believe me. It is a fact. I've been in this business over 50 years and I resolved that issue for many corvette owners. The rotor had to be shimmed to less that .005" runout and the problem disappeared. It happened to me on 2 of my own vehicles but i blame it on the design of the caliper pistons.


That's amazing! You just guys just blew my mind with this fact!
I did say my calipers were new but in all honesty, they are likely reman. Most of my parts come from NAPA. Even though my rotors are nearly new and I do not persieve any pulsating what so ever, do you think a sub par reman caliper is more susceptible to this type of behavior? The more you guys talk about this, the more the facts fit with what I have going on.

Response From East Coast Resident

I seriously doubt the master cylinder would cause this. Air rises to the top. It doesn't run down hill to the wheels.

I very much agree with you! If I had time to bleed it until all the fluid was gone from the reservoir, it would come out of the bleeder just like it came out of the bottle. It's the shortest line on the van, plenty of fresh fluid after being pumped through it to get rid of any air and yet there's air at the bleeder screw every 3 or 4 days. Where is the air coming from?

I've gone ahead and replaced the left front flex hose because it was only $30. The master cylinder is quite a bid more expensive. I also picked up another 1L bottle of DOT3 and I have bled the living hell out of it again and now the peddle is perfect again. Lets see what happens over the next few days.