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ACDelco
2002 Cadillac Escalade EXT Power Brake Booster ACDelco - Remanufactured

P311-1789B61    W0133-2205959  New

Qty:
$23.00 $256.30
ACDelco Power Brake Booster
  • Professional DuraStop
  • w/o Master Cylinder and w/Hydroboost (RPO JH5)
  • Remanufactured
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Cadillac Escalade EXT
ACDelco
2000 Cadillac Escalade Power Brake Booster ACDelco - Remanufactured

P311-318F70C    W0133-2205960  New

Qty:
$13.00 $156.48
ACDelco Power Brake Booster
  • Professional DuraStop
  • w/o Master Cylinder (Brake Code JB6)

    with Vacuum Booster
  • - w/Brake Code JB5, JB6
  • Remanufactured
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Cadillac Escalade
Cardone
2007 Cadillac Escalade EXT Power Brake Booster Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder

P311-5B44B67    54-74427  Remanufactured

15856781 , 15276502

Qty:
$16.20 $106.91
Cardone Power Brake Booster
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • Diaphragm Diameter (in): 10.79
    • Diaphragm Diameter (mm): 274.07
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% O.e. Quality Seals, Diaphragms And Check Valves Are Installed On Every Unit For Like-new Performance And Reliability
      • All Units Are 100% Tested To Ensure Reliable Performance
      • Exclusive Rust-prohibitive Finishing Process Extends Unit Life
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Master Cylinder Output Rods Are Pre-adjusted (when Included) For Easier And Faster Installation
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m Performance
      • New Mounting Nuts And Washers Ensure Proper, Hassle-free Installation
    • Master Cylinder Stud Thread Size: M10 X 1.05
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Brake Boosters, Hydro-Vac Boosters, and Hydraulic Boosters, offer your vehicle reliable stopping performance, every time. Each unit is reverse engineered, based off 40 years of CARDONE Engineering expertise, where original design weaknesses are identified, corrected and where applicable upgraded to provide a more durable part then the original unit. Every unit is remanufactured to meet or exceed OEM performance, providing a quality product both you and your vehicle rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Cadillac Escalade EXT
Cardone
2003 Cadillac Escalade EXT Power Brake Booster Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Hydraulic Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder

P311-5D066EB    52-7370  Remanufactured

15212479 , 15854058 , 15126866

Qty:
$27.90 $185.45
Cardone Power Brake Booster
  • Remanufactured Hydraulic Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Hydraulic Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% O.e. Quality Seals, Diaphragms And Check Valves Are Installed On Every Unit For Like-new Performance And Reliability
      • All Units Are 100% Tested To Ensure Reliable Performance
      • Exclusive Rust-prohibitive Finishing Process Extends Unit Life
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Master Cylinder Output Rods Are Pre-adjusted (when Included) For Easier And Faster Installation
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m Performance
      • New Mounting Nuts And Washers Ensure Proper, Hassle-free Installation
    • Master Cylinder Stud Thread Size: M10 X 1.50
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Brake Boosters, Hydro-Vac Boosters, and Hydraulic Boosters, offer your vehicle reliable stopping performance, every time. Each unit is reverse engineered, based off 40 years of CARDONE Engineering expertise, where original design weaknesses are identified, corrected and where applicable upgraded to provide a more durable part then the original unit. Every unit is remanufactured to meet or exceed OEM performance, providing a quality product both you and your vehicle rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Cadillac Escalade EXT
Cardone
2002 Cadillac Escalade EXT Power Brake Booster Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder

P311-085F3E7    54-74818  Remanufactured

18042073 , 178642 , 18060777 , 18040258

Qty:
$20.70 $114.58
Cardone Power Brake Booster
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • Diaphragm Diameter (in): 11.06
    • Diaphragm Diameter (mm): 280.80
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% O.e. Quality Seals, Diaphragms And Check Valves Are Installed On Every Unit For Like-new Performance And Reliability
      • All Units Are 100% Tested To Ensure Reliable Performance
      • Exclusive Rust-prohibitive Finishing Process Extends Unit Life
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Master Cylinder Output Rods Are Pre-adjusted (when Included) For Easier And Faster Installation
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m Performance
      • New Mounting Nuts And Washers Ensure Proper, Hassle-free Installation
    • Master Cylinder Stud Thread Size: M10 X 1.5
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Brake Boosters, Hydro-Vac Boosters, and Hydraulic Boosters, offer your vehicle reliable stopping performance, every time. Each unit is reverse engineered, based off 40 years of CARDONE Engineering expertise, where original design weaknesses are identified, corrected and where applicable upgraded to provide a more durable part then the original unit. Every unit is remanufactured to meet or exceed OEM performance, providing a quality product both you and your vehicle rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Cadillac Escalade EXT
Cardone
2002 Cadillac Escalade EXT Power Brake Booster Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Hydraulic Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder

P311-48BD2BB    52-7359  Remanufactured

15757280 , 15706056

Qty:
$43.20 $131.18
Cardone Power Brake Booster
  • Remanufactured Hydraulic Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Hydraulic Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% O.e. Quality Seals, Diaphragms And Check Valves Are Installed On Every Unit For Like-new Performance And Reliability
      • All Units Are 100% Tested To Ensure Reliable Performance
      • Exclusive Rust-prohibitive Finishing Process Extends Unit Life
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Master Cylinder Output Rods Are Pre-adjusted (when Included) For Easier And Faster Installation
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m Performance
      • New Mounting Nuts And Washers Ensure Proper, Hassle-free Installation
    • Master Cylinder Stud Thread Size: M10 X 1.50
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Brake Boosters, Hydro-Vac Boosters, and Hydraulic Boosters, offer your vehicle reliable stopping performance, every time. Each unit is reverse engineered, based off 40 years of CARDONE Engineering expertise, where original design weaknesses are identified, corrected and where applicable upgraded to provide a more durable part then the original unit. Every unit is remanufactured to meet or exceed OEM performance, providing a quality product both you and your vehicle rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Cadillac Escalade EXT
Cardone
1999 Cadillac Escalade Power Brake Booster Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder

P311-43A68E5    54-71085  Remanufactured

18047682 , 18029874 , 18029873

Qty:
$26.10 $89.79
Cardone Power Brake Booster
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Power Brake Booster w/o Master Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • Diaphragm Diameter (in): 10.81
    • Diaphragm Diameter (mm): 274.62
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% O.e. Quality Seals, Diaphragms And Check Valves Are Installed On Every Unit For Like-new Performance And Reliability
      • All Units Are 100% Tested To Ensure Reliable Performance
      • Exclusive Rust-prohibitive Finishing Process Extends Unit Life
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Master Cylinder Output Rods Are Pre-adjusted (when Included) For Easier And Faster Installation
      • Meets Or Exceeds O.e.m Performance
      • New Mounting Nuts And Washers Ensure Proper, Hassle-free Installation
    • Master Cylinder Stud Thread Size: M10 X 1.5
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Brake Boosters, Hydro-Vac Boosters, and Hydraulic Boosters, offer your vehicle reliable stopping performance, every time. Each unit is reverse engineered, based off 40 years of CARDONE Engineering expertise, where original design weaknesses are identified, corrected and where applicable upgraded to provide a more durable part then the original unit. Every unit is remanufactured to meet or exceed OEM performance, providing a quality product both you and your vehicle rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Cadillac Escalade
Cardone
2004 Cadillac Escalade EXT Power Brake Booster Cardone - w/o Master Cylinder

P311-4680558    W0133-1975666  New

Qty:
$21.00 $447.00
Cardone Power Brake Booster
  • Remanufactured
  • with Hydraulic Brake Booster
  • w/o Master Cylinder
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Cadillac Escalade EXT
ACDelco
2017 Cadillac Escalade ESV Power Brake Booster ACDelco

P311-1D3682A    W0133-2053346  New

Qty:
$185.28
ACDelco Power Brake Booster
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2017 - Cadillac Escalade ESV
ACDelco
2008 Cadillac Escalade EXT Power Brake Booster ACDelco

P311-1A184DB    W0133-2788050  New

Qty:
$382.91
ACDelco Power Brake Booster
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Cadillac Escalade EXT

Latest Cadillac Repair and Brake Booster Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1976 Cadillac Eldorado Brake Problems

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From lcmtvbreath4 on 1976 Cadillac Eldorado Brake Problems

Hello everyone, first the stats.
1976
Cadillac
Eldorado
500ci
20,000 miles

I have been working on this car for a few days now. The brakes felt really strange and spongy, so I began process of elimination (the brake light never went on through this whole process till the very end). There was no brake fluid puddles under the car. I put it on my lift and had a buddy stomp on the brake pedal while i checked all the lines and not a drop from anywhere. I could see the brake fluid cap on the master cylinder reservoir was leaking, so I go a new cap. I tested it out and the calipers all locked up, so I replaced them all and the hoses and bled all the lines. Still no visible leaks, pressure is a little better, yet the brake pedal still loses pressure (you have to pump it to stop and sometimes when stopped at a light you have to pump to stay stopped.) I'm wondering whether it's 1. the master cylinder (i have one on hand) or 2. maybe the brake booster? I'm great at reverse engineering so I know I can do the job, I just wanted to see if anyone had a suggestion as to what's causing my problem. I was just driving it now and the brake light finally came on. It's worth noting the lines going to what I believe is the brake booster are HOT HOT HOT. (when I say brake booster I'm referring to the device the master cylinder is bolted into with i believe 2 large diameter brake line style hoses going to it. Whether I'm calling it the right thing is up for debate, but I looked on a few auto parts websites for a picture of a 76 eldo brake booster, and it looks like it from the pic...) Any help would be great. Thanks Everyone!


-Chuck

Response From Hammer Time


I tested it out and the calipers all locked up, so I replaced them all and the hoses

And that didn't work? What a surprise.

You didn't really think it had 4 bad calipers, did you?

I think you may be well over your head here. It sounds like you have a hydro-boost system which uses the power steering to boost the brakes. The symptoms sound like the system may be contaminated and if that is true, you are fixing to ruin 4 calipers and hoses. I would change the master ASAP and flush the system thoroughly. Make sure the master has free play in the push rod so it's not pumping up that way.

Response From lcmtvbreath4 Top Rated Answer

Thanks for the advice, however, I have to mention something. You are incredibly judgmental aren't you? You said "You didn't really think it had 4 bad calipers did you?" As a matter of fact, yes, it did. I took them off and the pistons would hardly depress, so yeah, it did need calipers, so of course I thought it needed them, because it did. Now that I've said that let me explain something. My Grandfather ordered this car in 1976 from the factory with the intention of willing it to his first Grandson. That's me. The car was sitting (garaged) for 10 + years. So one, don't get on my case for replacing things that you didn't know HAD to be replaced, especially when replacing them will do no harm. Not to mention that I like to replace my calipers in pairs, and I figured for such a nice old car, why the hell not replace all of them. Secondly, I'm very good at repair work, HOWEVER, not when I know nothing about the car. What you described about the hydro boost sounds EXACTLY like what's there. So instead of taking the time to type your wise cracks, why didn't you immediately tell me about the hydro boost system and oh, I don't know... Maybe tell me WHAT exactly you think might be contaminating the system, and what exactly you mean about the master cylinder "Not pumping that way."? Not pumping what way? And when you say flush the system do you mean the brake system or power steering? I flushed the brake fluid when I did the calipers.

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, I tell it like I see it. Unless you do have contamination and it has already made it to all 4 wheels, you did not have 4 frozen calipers. I've been in the business for over 45 years and i have yet to see a car with 4 bad calipers. The rear calipers aren't even supposed to push in. The parking brake is built into them. You just need to get this car to a brake specialist before it gets much worse

Response From lcmtvbreath4

The rear calipers aren't supposed to push in? I'm sorry, but that just sounds retarded, because if they didn't push in they wouldn't stop the car. I guess in your world only the front tires should stop your car. You're neither good at auto advice or describing what it is you mean to say.

Response From Hammer Time

OK, I've had enough.

After I say this I'm locking this question and you can take your car to a tech that actually knows what he is doing so you won't kill somebody on the highway with your back yard nonsense. You obviously have no knowledge whatsoever of brake systems.

Just for the record........... The rear caliper have the parking brake mechanism built in and the piston ratchets out ans the pads wear down. It requires a special tool that threads the piston back into the caliper and if you try to force it back in, all you will do is break the caliper.

Hi, new here - 66 Cadillac Hearse

Showing 2 out of 37 Posts | Show 35 Hidden Posts
Question From Lydia_Robinvale on Hi, new here - 66 Cadillac Hearse

Hi everyone! I'm new here. My name is Lydia and I live in LA, in the san fernando valley. I own a 1966 Cadillac S&S Victoria hearse. I am here to get advice and teach myself how to fix her up, since I don't have a lot of money to pay a mechanic. I'm hoping to learn all I can because to me fixing it (correctly) yourself is much more satisfying (and costs less) than taking it to someone else! I think since I am female and due to my lack of knowledge I have been ripped off by more than one mechanic and was actually informed of that once I joined my hearse club, so I'm looking to curtail that too. Anyway, here's me and my baby. Her name is Dusty and she looks like hell, but she is my prized possession!


Response From nickwarner

I like it hon. Hot Rod had a similar hearse to your that got customized like crazy a few months back.

We can help you as issues come up to work with it. One thing you might look at is taking a class at a local tech school this summer. Lot of them have an intro course about car maintenance and basic repairs geared towards people at your experience level.

I'm jealous of you CA people. In WI those cars rusted into nothing long ago.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

1966 - no rust!

Lydia - There's plenty you can do with short bucks but you want to know if this is basically sound so you don't over-invest in it to find a nasty expense later.

I really don't know what might be all different than a regular Cadillac for parts? TKK, only one engine for any regular cars by Cadillac then anyway. Old as it is stuff still available quite easily for many Cadillacs and you are in the right state for good used stuff if needed.............

T

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

Hi and thanks for the replies. As far as the rust...I have had her for almost 2 years now and I have spent way too much money for any sane person to consider, but for me it's a little bit more than just a car. But her chassis is sound and shes in ok shape as far as that goes. But she needs SO much work, thats why I am trying to cut down cost by doing as much as I can myself. The problem is, I am not like my friend Nik, who can basically do anything ever without having ever done it before haha! I'm trying though. I am extremely attached to her and regardless of how much money it is going to cost me to restore, I really don't care. I love my hearse and I could never just give up, even if the engine gave out. Why? I have no idea, it just is I guess! In the coming days I will post some photos and questions that will probably sound really stupid heh..but you've got to start somewhere right?

As far as I know everything mechanical is stock caddy, but everything pretty much from the dash back is hearse, specifically S&S which is why I can't screw up the trim when I take it off because it would be really hard to source more. Also all the windows are hearse specific because they are curved glass/commercial glass, and have to be salvaged from another 66 or similar year. Fortunately I have a source for the glass, which can be some of the most expensive parts to replace. I believe the engine is a 429. She was built somewhere in the midwest, where all hearses were built at one time...Ohio or something. But she was in service for a German funeral home in san francisco, and the original custom buily plate still exists on the wheel well under the hood. I dont think the funeral home exists anymore.

As it stands, her whole front end needs rebuilding except the centerlink which I replaced a year ago, something is up with the tranny, she has chattering valves (I think), some pinging going on, new tires, she overheats slowly at idle, she needs a rebuilt carb, needs the suspension looked at possibly...and lord knows what else is up inside her engine. As I said though, I dont care about the cost. And I'm not even talking how she looks, as she needs complete restoration outside and in. Its a labour of love :)

I have another hearse thats a cadillac s&s as well, but is an 84. It has intermittent wiring issues. It died in the middle of me driving it a few weeks ago and has been parked ever since. His name is Orwell (yes, I name my cars), and he will start up if we jump him, so theres a newly developed power drain coming from somewhere, but I dont have and dont even know which tools I need to test that stuff. I'm starting from the ground up.

If you look on statigram and type in #hearse, you'll see tons of photos of Orwell. His license plate is LIFENDS. Dusty's is DST2DST. We're freaks :)

Here's a photo of Dusty gettin it on with Orwell (because Orwell's battery was dead)



ETA: I forgot, the over investment and nasty surprise later? I've already gone through that several times. Haha..lady told me there was no bondo on the car, too. Turns out, the whole damn car is bondo! Well, not really..but there is a lot of bondo. And they conveniently forgot to mention the flinstones style hole in the passenger side floor.. I mean it is HUGE. I cover it with cardboard hahaha...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If you are driving this regularly you do need the front end parts and suspension parts all good as well as brakes brakes of course.

The bondo and rusted floor could get expensive to fix.

The pinging you think is transmission could easily be engine knock/ping as it should have been a premium fuel engine and you can't find that octane anymore I know of. Plain tune up especially points and timing set. Could also have too high of compression from carbon build up. Note that as the points wear the bumper to cam in distributor the timing advances till it doesn't run properly and can ping.

If you find compression too high there might be an additive that will help. Can also just make carb eat tons of carb cleaner.

Overheat! Take care of that. I think this has a fan clutch which don't last forever to pull enough air and it needs to. Could be several things causing it to run hot - radiator bad or needing a good flush.

Hey - of course it's old enough to need plenty of things. Gotta make it safe at least first. You should be able to look inside radiator for the overheating to see basic junk that might be in it. If need be there used to radiator shops that could acid boil them or replace just the fins of the core it end the tanks are any good.

Find what makes it ping as if engine as strong as things were could be damaged by that alone.

One more for now. You can tell roughly how much "Bondo" was used with a magnet. If that was to fix rust it wouldn't last well and someday if you painted it the Bondo will not hold paint as well.

If worried, let a body shop take a look. I know you love it but might be a better parts car for another??

T

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

Ooooh the bondo... Well, I personally haw sanded the entire vehicle and I have completely redone the bondo in a lot of places. Some wingnut didn't mix the bondo properly and the stud was somehow still wet underneath after all that time! There are many cracks going on too straight down from the metal. So I've had to take it down to the metal in some spots...

The good news is I honed my bodywork skills doing his. I'm still not perfect and I don't know how to pull dents or use bodywork hammers yet, but she doesn't really need any of that anyway. Her front left panel and light housing was bashed in by the previous owner and is crooked so that the bezel doesn't fit anymore and is held on by bondo. I will have to have that fixed professionally.

I had the timing and points and things adjusted but that was per a year ago now. I had brand new brakes put in, new shoes, etc.. But whoever did it screwed it up. I had the radiator fixed as it had 5 leaks in it but I need a flush because its real rusty in there now. I Donno. Dustys a mess but I'd never use her for parts

I asked some questions about noises she was malign in a separate thread, but I guess I'm not supposed to have more than one thread about the same car, so I've got a few issues I need to take care of regarding those. I have more research to do, and I know the clunk in the front which I didn't mention is due to a rotted rubber thing pushing itself all the way out, I'm not sure what to called but I will take a photo I suppose and post it..

Response From nickwarner

With the age of this, I don't think Alldata will have any specs available. I'd be checking on EBay to see if you can find a factory manual for this one. That would be a gold mine for info for you.

I've had holes in the floor like you do on 13 year old trucks. WI salt eats cars apart.

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

What manual would I look for? 66 Cadillac I'm assuming but I don't know anything about manuals, they don't include how to take panels and pieces like the bumper off do they? Because a lot of the car is hearse specific and I'm pretty sure S&S didn't make manuals lol..

I managed to figure out how to take the bumper off should I need to replace the tail lights, though. My right red lens is smashed so I will need a new one soon, it caused a wiring meltdown last year being exposed :(

Eta: I'm confused as to whether its a Cadillac fleetwood or series 75 and I want to figure out the difference between the two regardless. All I know is it is a commercial chassis and the hearse club throws around the word fleetwood a lot but also deville....?

Response From Double J

Cadillac had different series vehicles.

The Fleetwood series included the Eldorado, 60 Special, Fleetwood Brougham, 75 sedan and Limos
The Deville series included Coup de Ville, Sedan de Villes, both hardtops and convertibles
The Calais Series included Calais Coup, Hardtop Sedan and Sedan

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

A hearse is most like a limo, in length anyhow. I know it's a commercial chassis, so I'm assuming I would go with the fleet wood series. I'll have a look around and see what I can drum up. A wiring diagram would be super useful too for when I replace the instrument panel. I scavenged one from a regular 66 that was sitting in a junkyard last year.

Response From Double J

In 1981, Superior Coaches acquired the Sayers & Scovill funeral coach business, better known as The S&S Coach Company. At that time, all S&S Coach designs, dies, fixtures and manufacturing techniques were merged into the Lima operation and the Company name became S&S/Superior of Ohio.



I deleted these pictures to make this thread readable again.

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

What a great post! Thank you for that info and picture.

I really wish I had some money so I could do more/take her to be looked at. I feel like I have a sick pet!

Response From Double J

Click Here

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

There is currently a thread in the car troubleshooting section called "tranny noise". This issue is the exact one dusty has. I'm afraid it's time to rebuild her transmission, because the people who owned it before me never serviced it. It's made the noise ever since I got the car, but has become much worse. I figured the lunging forward and backward when shifting into drive/reverse was tranny related but it might be bad u-joints if I'm understanding what I'm reading online correctly. Regardless, do you guys think its time? I dont really have $700 but will find it if I have to..

Response From Tom Greenleaf

$700 for a trans job? No - lots more. The driveshaft on this may be all different. These and others used a CV joint made of u-joints.

Lunging isn't really the symptom when those went bad, noise and vibrations more likely,

T

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

Dusty is making a new noise and pop banging on startup after sitting for a while. I turn it off, try again and it doesn't do it.

Actually my friend has a 64 combo ambulance and a place near me did his for $550. They don't like hearses he said so they get them in an out as fast as possible. He said he has has no issues.

She started idling really high util I press the gas a little. If not u joints, why is she lunging forward and backward?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Any vehicle old or new an automatic will be confused about how to behave if engine isn't running properly. Lunging depending what you mean probably isn't caused by trans or u-joints/driveshaft.

You pricing is all wet - sorry. If somehow this is trans itself and an overhaul is in order you really don't know what it will need till it's apart. You can look up what a kit cost for a normal just worn common parts but that's only valid if hard parts are usable. Newer vehicles some trans shops will just dump yours and rebuid a good "core" which will be VERY hard to find and probably nobody or junkyard is going to know it that one is any good.

Why not spend a couple bucks and have a professionals check out making a list with estimates of what this will need mechanically in general? Then a quick guess by a body shop (you'll need that and harder + more expensive because it's already bondoed up.

Now if this popping and banging when sitting for a while could be nasty expensive up to redoing the engine and it may be too far gone. Just a carb redo if possible can cost several hundred and still not be done.

Perhaps join a Cadillac club that may have major parts available. Already said I think - HemmingsMotorNews.com is the old to much older car place for both parts, whole cars, and people that will work on them. I think they still sell the paper magazine which at least was like a phone book of adds and no doubt now with websites. My guess is many parts will be from So. Cal. or at least Southwest US.

This stuff is tough when you have all the tools and place to do it AND THE KNOW HOW,

T

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

Man, that sounds tough! I understand what you're saying though.

We have a friend in the funeral business who sells drivetrains, trannie and engines complete package salvaged from old limos nobody wants anymore. I'll hit him up and see what he says. Rumor has it he comes down on his prices if you take him out to dinner LOL

as far as putting it in, I have a friend who can do it, with cherry picker and all. Right now he's done both a 70s hearse ad is working on his 58 as well as a 59. Ill be damned if I can ever get him when he isn't busy though!

When I get a few bucks I'll take her in to have her properly looked at. Hopefully that won't be too long from now. I'll keep this updated with stuff as I find it. She didn't do the popping today. Maybe she just needs to be driven more? I checked the oil as transmission fluid. All is good.. Her noises seem to quiet down the more I drive her but come back when it's cold.

All in all when it's warmed up it runs alright for an old engine. But as a person who knows next to nothing about that stuff, I can't really say either way.

Response From Discretesignals

Maybe you could start by seeing what kind of mechanical condition the engine is in. If the engine is worn out and can't make good manifold vacuum you'd be wasting time messing with everything else.

Pick up a compression gauge and run a compression check on all the cylinders. There is loads of information on the internet and youtube on how to perform that test.

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

Compression gauge. Gotcha. I will have a look..

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

Right, so just to update, I have some new job prospects so I may have extra money in the coming couple of weeks to do some work on her! Finally.

In other news, the exhaust leak from under the hoo somewhere has become so terrible that I can't dive her for linger periods than 29 minutes because it starts to make me physically ill. I'm assuming that's bad.

The first thing I have to do is take care of her parking tickets. As soon as I'm able to do that, I wi sart going through her systems and figuring out what needs to be done. I've enlisted the help of an independent mechanic in my area who is interested in helping me for a very modest fee. Mostly diagnostic help. So I wi keep you guys updated..

We decided to try and sell the other hearse. We have a possible buyer but if we doesn't want it and no one else does we may keep him, but probably not. I will be sad to see him go.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Lydia - all fun and joking aside you can't drive that anymore until fixed or you'll get a ride in the back of one. Carbon monoxide can cause headaches, red skin, but leaves no odor on its own and is deadly! STOP DRIVING IT AT ALL TILL THAT IS FIXED NO MATTER WHAT ELSE IS WRONG WITH THE THING! You may not care but how about if you pass out while driving and hurt or kill someone? C'mon girl!

T

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

I agree totally. I never drive in er alone, but last night was really scary. I started getting dizzy and feeling really yuck.. Headache and such. I'm only going to drive her to move her to the other side of the street when the street sweeper comes (or else I'll get another ticket!) and that will be it.

I'm happy I will be able to give her attention now though. We have a buyer who may be interested in Orwell and she's coming to see it on the 12th. They run a hearse tour business in Arizona. I'm afrai she won't want him though, but I'll put him on Craigslist if I have to.

What could cause such a horrible leak? It smells terrible too so the whole no odor thing is moot.. She smells like poo-poo lol

Response From nickwarner

There should be black soot marks where the exhaust leak is. Could be an exhaust manifold, the gasket to hold it to the block, or anywhere along the pipe that could get the raw exhaust into the car. Need to get a good look at it. The noise itself should give you an area to look. I usually get my hand near it while running (not too close or you get burned) to feel for the puffs of air escaping through the leak.

The carbon monoxide is odorless. The rest of the crap in raw exhaust isn't. You'll get hurt trying to drive it more than to move to the other side of the street.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

TOO IMPORTANT LYDIA! THE DEADLY STUFF YOU CAN'T SMELL AS WE'VE SAID! EXHAUST ODOR YOU CAN. HEY! YOU HAVE A HOLE IN THE FLOOR TOO. THE HEADACHE IS THE FIRST CLUE I THINK. IF LIGHT SKINNED YOU MAY TURN RED AND NOT HAVE THE SENSE TO NOTICE ANYWAY!

DON'T THINK DRIVING IT MORE THAN TO MOVE IT WHERE YOU CAN FIND THE LEAK IS SAFE. EVEN OPEN WINDOWS MAY NOT WORK. NOT GOOD. ESPECIALLY A NON SMOGGED VEHICLE HAS LOTS OF CARBON MONOXIDE AND WOULDN'T TAKE LONG. PLEASE - DON'T FOOL AROUND WITH THIS,

Tom

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

Thanks for all your concern everyone.

Don't worry, I'm not going to drive her anymore except to move it. The leak is much, much worse than I remember it. So, after I get home from Maine next week I am going to wait a week or so till I have some $$ and take her in for a total rundown.

Am I supposed to feel puffs of air when the engine is running when I remove the orange oil cap? I read somewhere that that designates blowback, which is an indication of engine health, but I could be looking in the wrong place. If it is true though, I may as well replace the engine because its basically a steady stream of blowing air, and not just "puffs". I'm probably doing it wrong though.

As I said, I'm excited to finally be able to sort out her problems. I just hope I don't run into anything crazy serious along the way. I will scrimp and save If I have to rebuild the engine, tranny.. Whatever. Nothing but the best for Dusty :)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Exhaust issues first! You can get in trouble without hearing leaks never mind this.

"Am I supposed to feel puffs of air when the engine is running when I remove the orange oil cap?" I think '66 models used vented oil caps with a steel wool inside to help return any oil rather than make a mess. There is some "normal" blow-by in an engine but when excessive indicates a tired, worn engine, usually too much gets by rings but it wouldn't be just rings to solve. Make sure PCV valve and hose are working and have suction - it does have a PCV valve in 1966. Think that started in 1964 on all vehicles.

You can fake it for a good while with a worn engine of the vintage but want to hear the exhaust is done first and we can take on that.

You'll love Maine if you've never been. Great weather here lately and best month IMO. Pre Memorial Day is great. Brace for cold nights!

T

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

Oh ok .. Don't know why pcv valve and hose are but will look those up.

I was born and raised in Maine actually :) I'm visiting my parents.

One of the mechanics the hearse club uses is way expensive but he does the best work around. I'm going to have him take a look at it when I get back. Is there perhaps a checklist of things you think I should ask him definitely? I suppose I should just make a list, I'll just forget if I don't :P

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

PCV = "Positive Crankcase Ventilation" which is a little metal (might be a plastic now) valve to suck the fumes out of the air in all the places above sitting oil in the oil pan that includes the valve covers. Some went right into oil cap, more were into a rubber grommet on valve cover. It will be a larger rubber hose that ends up at base of carb not the one that goes to the brake booster. If you pulled that out you should feel suction. If not clean out with carb cleaner, replace hose clean or replace valve till it rattles in your hand. Pretty basic thing. Those were the first and only emission control for a while.

Maine! Where from? I've been all over it and two siblings there now - to retire there too. I can be at the Piscataqua bridge in about 1.2 hours from here which is the ME/NH border for readers when heading North on I-95 from MA where I am. Great state,

T

Response From nickwarner

Tom, this is a 66 and as I recall they used the oil fill area with a little screen on it for PCV.

If you're getting a lot of air coming out of that when running, then you have a lot of blowby. What it is it combustion gasses getting past your piston rings into the crankcase. Even a healthy engine will have a small amount, but a lot of blowby indicates a worn out engine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Remember these cars new. Crankcase venting was just a stink tube to the ground before PCV idea. I think all sold had to use one and not that pipe. It was oil filler caps that many just pushed on and would spit some thru the steel wool to catch it. Soon after that they closed that up too for sealed PCV.

Some other mandated changes by model year for all was seat belts, 1964. Owned cars with none and cars without padded dash boards even. All metal.

Right at oil Embargo of 1973 emissions got more serious exactly when gas prices doubled and the first non war gas lines were common. 1972? - or close Iraq instantly stopped selling crude to the US all at once. Pres. Nixon put national speed limit to 50 MPH not long later to be national 55 as truckers really complained.

I used to know when some total change year was for what and only know some. 5MPH bumper law for all cars (not trucks) in 1973. Meant the car had to sustain hitting a cement wall at 5 MPH with no damage. That only lasted till about 1979 models or so. Not sure but was 2.5 MPH to lighten the cars.

Not sure if a Hearse or Limo had to comply with everything either so some unknowns?? Trucks were exempt from lots of things till much later as there was a day a truck was specifically to work with not multitask as plain transportation too.

For now if a removed oil cap on a 66 blows out noticeably it isn't a good sign,

Tom

Response From re-tired

It would really,really,be a good idea to take a automotive shop course at a local community college. Often they will use a students car for hands on trining . With the knowledge you will gain you will be able to do more and more. And what you do have to outsource you will be able to talk the talk and spot rip offs. You have the desire and drive ,a little knowledge will go a long way. As far as $$$$ to do thiis .Talk to a admisssions /financial aid (loans & grants)person.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Manual: Is the company that made it still in biz? Find them if so. Some silly things may be unique to this vs a regular 66 Caddy. A lot of custom cars like it, limos, even ambulances would be different in some areas. Engine and trans probably the same. Ebay out an old "pro" edition of a Chiltons - all American cars were in one big book. They were expensive books back when not the junk paperback stuff you might find.

Back then those books covered 9 model years. Must be the "pro" editions as some stuff really is useless otherwise,

T

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

I think I remember looking for a chiltons but not finding one. Let me ask my club people which manual I should get.. I know that year has shop manuals, is that maybe something to try? The cd version was $30. S&S was bought out by Supeior I think, another coach company but they still use S&S as a name, but I could be wrong. As far as coach builder specific manuals, every hearse owner would have them if they existed. I could attempt to contact S&S.

If I had loads of money I could send her back to S&S to be redone by the actual coach builder, but alas.. I haven't yet a money tree :)

Oh and Tom, carbon buildup.. How do I clean that out? I know it needs a flush but what kind of stuff do I need to get the carbon out or is it even possible?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'd bet a used paper manual would cost more to ship than the price. I have a 1961-1969 one that is awesome. Specs, drawings, pics, wiring diagrams. I'm talking about a dark green book with almost a cloth covered hard cover. Sorry to say but another was better by the early 1970s than those were,

T

Response From Lydia_Robinvale

Do you know who the manual is by? Just the manufacturer? I'm wondering if I can get my hands on one maybe on eBay but these things seem so rare now

Response From nickwarner

Look for one by Motor or Cadillac itself. Try Amazon too, they are great for used book sales. Another source which you should look into is Hemmings. They are they authority on classic cars like this one, and they cover things clear back to the brass era. Look them up, they have a on of vendors that can get you what you need.

Brake problem.

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From Carl Alcon on Brake problem.

1968 Chevy El Camino
327 CID
100000 plus on chassis
Replaced master cylinder, brake booster, all four wheel cylinders, and brake distribution block. Pedal still fades.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

When you say "fades" do you mean brake pedal slowly travels even all the way to the floor or change in power assist feel?


Pretty basic brakes on this vintage.
Why did you replace what you called a "distribution box?" That should be a multifunction proportioning valve specific to the vehicle but wouldn't cause fade unless it leaked.
The new item mentioned do NOT mean they are good. At a glance suggests bad master cylinder if it loses pedal to floor.
Erratic power assist is a vacuum issue w vacuum stored in booster and locked in booster indefinitely even with engine off should be holding vacuum inside and proven by at least one power assisted brake pedal push with engine off for a while. Faults include bad booster, check valve right where hose goes into it and the grommet.


Just FYI on the proportioning valve: It's job is to direct pressure/braking force for the vehicle it was installed on or meant for. Trucks are generally intended to apply more force earlier to rear brakes and you have a mix of truck and car style. At the vintage many auto makers would or wouldn't offer OE power assist at all or option of front disc brakes for certain powertrain options.
I'm never going to find what would be OE for the chassis on this what was originally offered. Doesn't all matter as brakes fading if sitting still isn't correct but could be confused with changing vacuum assist.


You would know that by shutting engine off, apply brakes till all vacuum is used up and brake pedal feels harder. Then hold brake and start engine you should feel pedal drop some with now vacuum assisting when it wasn't before. If not or erratic with stable engine speed there's probably a vacuum source and sealing problem with anything about it - engine itself on thru all items including the booster,


T

Response From Carl Alcon

It's not slowly, it's pretty much to the floor right away. It's almost like I'm not getting any break assist. The reason I replaced the distribution block was because after I replaced the master cylinder/booster, I pressure tested the system and wasn't getting anything out of the port that feeds the rear. It is not a proportioning valve. The OPGI part number is CH26980 if you want to see what it is. The intake manifold is pulling vacuum. This is the second master cylinder/booster that I have replaced. Unless I got 2 in a row that were bad.


C

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? OK, whatever distribution box replaced is fine. It has a proportioning valve then also that slides inside to direct fluid pressure AND if off center meant to lock off leaking or unequal pressures plus on a 1968 get a red brake warning light. When those are far enough off center they won't bleed out fluid unless centered again by releasing pressure from the one end that works the shaft inside moves to allow flow to both front and rear in this case. A good one self centers by leaving it alone so you don't hear much about them.


Now you say you feel like you have no power assist possibly due to lack of vacuum or ability to hold it. Vacuum source is intake manifold actual vacuum on this via a usually a rubber hose that will not collapse and stay on ports snugly from below carb itself on to a plastic check valve at the booster. It can fail anywhere it leaks or if not locked in check meaning vacuum only travels one way thru a check valve. One would think booster would come with a new grommet but might not be correct? It just that silly rubber thing leaked your brakes would lose power assist - that simple.


Some guess work: I would bet master cylinder has an adjustable rod to booster. If wrong that would leak out vacuum without touching anything as if you were pushing the brake pedal just a bit. Specs for that or jus know that by feel of parts.
Multiple bad parts. IDK - by the second bad part you have to seriously question if you wrecked it or some other reason is wrong. No question bad parts exist new or plain wrong parts.
This is 99% a Chevelle as HT said NOT based on a truck chassis. Changes known OE of a chassis include which engine, body style as to whether it gets disc front brakes (not sure for 1968 on this) or drums on front, proportioning valve, size of brakes. If those matched and were all wrong you would still have brakes just not what it was designed for.


Side note if you find this the or part of the problem. Shaft adjustment to the master cylinder from the brake pedal I think is under the dash above brake pedal. A thing you never needed to touch unless altered or damaged.


Also: If this isn't bench bled properly you can end up with air you'll never get out without starting over or pressure bleed system.
Air in system make a variety of odd behavior also even small amounts very temperature sensitive as the air will expand with a running engine and can lose all brake feel that might come back some when cold,


T

Response From Carl Alcon

Thanks for your response. I went and bought a hand pump and bled it out again. When I was trying to figure this out, I blew out the lines. The hand pump worked.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Whatever tool you bought to bleed out brakes if it worked and all is well now can't argue with that. Open for now but thread should probably get locked up for archives soon as a solved issue,


T

Response From fredm

You said that you replaced "all 4 wheel cylinders", so I am assuming that you have drum brakes on all 4 wheels. But if you have discs on the front and you actually replaced the front calipers instead of cylinders, then make sure that you didn't reverse the calipers left to right. Either caliper will fit on either wheel, but if you get them on the wrong side then the bleed valve is positioned on the bottom of the caliper instead of the top - in that case you'll never get the air properly bled out.

Response From Hammer Time

Disc brakes were not standard until 1971 This is a '68.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm going with drum brakes around till stated otherwise. OP - Master cylinder would be different if for a disc brake vehicle. Larger reservoir towards booster the clue, if same size it's correct.


Where parts new or rebuilt - master cyl + or wheel cylinders? Matters. Rebuilt had/has high failure rate. Wheel cyl (rare for this) could draw air back and not leak with pressure.


Notes for drum brake musts: Shoes correct and star adjusted at bottom to slightest drag or drag then back off to none. Do not adjust parking brake (rear only) until shoes and all parts are exactly correct and adjusted. If wrong service brake will never work right either spongy or burn up by themselves. Some could blow a piston out of wheel cylinder - most can't but never feel right.


Adjustment in order of events must be first before bleeding.


Note: Drum brakes look intimidating with springs and things + double as parking brake well if right. If confused Google out pics as they are still made now for other use (trailers etc.) No fundamental changes in principle operation for ~60 years!


Any hydraulic items using rubber if dry will tear up rubber and fail almost right away might be part of repeat problems?


Know parts (most) at wheels are for "towards front or rear" or for "left side right side" can be installed opposite and fail but not total loss of pressure feel sitting still,
T

Response From Hammer Time

Sounds to me like you just don't know how to bleed it properly. You probably need to have it pressure bled.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Ditto HT - Twas long ago but I recall that many GMs the master cylinder was at almost a 45 degree angle as bolted to booster was a b*tch sometimes.


Tricks of the time: Floor jack hoist driver's side of car much higher than passenger's first. Vacuum pull out some fluid out of bleeders then thru a clear line so you could see it then proceed.
I'm almost certain NOT for GM anything but Fords you had to push a red rubber button on proportioning valve or it was stuck on either front or rear only! That centered it if spring inside (they all were fine then) could move. If rusted from old fluid maybe fuss with it or find another - very difficult to get right proportion of pressure delivered.


Other: I don't think GM put disc brakes on anything but Corvettes in 1968 except for experimental by special order on some Oldsmobiles - owned one - 4 piston Vetter brakes really nothing special. Cadillac didn't offer disc brakes in 1968 TMK on anything!


T

Response From Hammer Time

This vehicle isn't a truck. It is a Chevelle chassis with the back cut off.

If you have 4 wheel drum brakes and the pedal drops after initially having a good pedal and it has no external leaks, the problem can only be the master cylinder.
Just make sure you are confusing the symptom with just a spongy pedal due to air in the system.

HELP brakes locking up

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From captainmurphy on HELP brakes locking up

i just bought a 91 honda civic si hatchback with 170,000 miles. everything was going fine for a couple weeks and then as i was driving the car began to slow on it's own and unable to move, completely locked up. the rotors were glowing orange. the people who gave me the car helped me replace the rotors, calipers, master cylinder, lines, pads and brake booster. everything seemed to go well but on the way home the car did the same thing slowing down to a stop and unable to move for about an hour or so. only difference is that the rotors weren't glowing this time. it seems to definitely do it faster when it's hot outside, but either way i'm unable to drive more than a mile or two before the problem starts. could there possibly be a problem with the calipers i bought? also the brake light will sometimes stay lit but doesn't appear to be stuck, just barely lifting it a tiny bit with my toe will make them turn off. any help would be greatly appreciated as i am a student who works full time and can barely afford to feed and pay for my rent as it is. cars just aren't my strong point not even close. Thank You

Response From Hammer Time

You system could be contaminated with an oil based product or the push rod for the master cylinder could be adjusted with no free play.

Response From captainmurphy

push rod could be adjusted for no free play? not sure what that means. also i was reading about the brakelight switch on the brake pedal. mine has it's rubber stopper gone and has been replaced with a bolt bye the previous owner. the bolt head sticks out about 1/4 to 1/3 inch from the hole where the stopper used to be. i've never seen it before. is that about the right size or is it maybe too big and leaving a little of pressure on the brakes causing them to heat up..Thanks for any help, it's really been sort of a nightmare to deal with considering my low level of mechanic skills. thanks again

Response From Hammer Time

All master cylinders have to keep a small amount of free play in the pushrod to insure complete release. If the master doesn't completely return to it's stops, it will build pressure in the system. You can test this theory the next time the brakes lock up by loosening the hold down bolts for the master and pulling it 1/4" away from booster. If this release brakes, that is your problem.

Response From captainmurphy

i will try this in a few hours, definitely sounds like it may be the problem. how would i go about readjusting the free play or is it something that should be done by a professional? your help is much appreciated.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Captain: As Hammer suggested this smacks of little to no good freeplay and seems like you said it has been messed with? It must have that to return fluid pressure back to master cylinder. Even when this happens brakes may behave cold and just engine heat will expand the fluid even without touching the brakes to expand it so basically it's applying its brakes whether you do or not.

Can you fix this? You tell us your mechanical skills to put this back to specifications or send it out if worried at all. Glowing brake parts is not part of what I will say they can tolerate without damage even after a fix hate to say it. That much heat could even damage wheel bearings or more IMO,

T

Response From captainmurphy

where exactly are the hold down bolts? is it the two bolts that attach the master cylinder to the brake booster?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes - and they should be exactly as manufacturer intended,

T

Response From captainmurphy

okay, so i am going to try and ride around my yard until the brakes clamp down on me again i am going to loosen the hold down bolts that connect the master cylinder to the brake booster (do i loosen all the way or just a little)? and then pull the master cylinder about a 1/4 inch and see if it releases the brakes am i correct?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Just the 1/4 but DON'T LOSE THE THING - IT STILL NEEDS TO BE IN PLACE.

I don't like fooling with brakes. If that's been rigged up before I don't suggest rigging it again but get correct good parts in place and those that are adjustable adjust for pedal free play.
____________________

Side note on this: Was a '92 Cadillac that clearly needed a new master cyl. Installed while customer waited (easy one) and tested it just a mile perhaps and done - customer heads home. OMG - it started doing just what you are going thru. Told lady not to drive it and went over myself and it had cooled down. Was fine??!!

Try to be concise but it did it again and I drove it back to my shop and didn't even touch the service brake and it started on me!

The story ended up that one parts maker didn't drill the centering hole on just one plant deep enough and all made there for a period of time had the same issue - bad part! That's not the case here but the symptoms are the dead on same and yours you said had been rigged up to hold the thing so no telling as I'm not there just how messed up that is??

T