Each Motor Is 100% Tested. Testing Includes Loading The Motor On A Simulated Window Fixture To Verify Speed And Strength Of The Motor
Every Motor Has Its Internal Components Inspected And Gauged. Bushings Are Gauged And Re-impregnated With Lubricating Oil, Ball Bearings Are Replaced With New And Armatures Are Fully Tested To Ensure Insulation
Every Remanufactured Motor Is Assembled With The Precise Amount Of Lubricant To Ensure Quiet Operation And Long Life
Every Remanufactured Motor Is Fully Compatible With The O.e. Mounting And Regulator
For Motors Which Have An Auto Up / Down Feature, Output Signals And Pulse Counts Are Matched To The Vehicle Application And Motors Are Shipped In The ‘full Up Position’
Internal Gears Are Gauged, Inspected And Renewed For Reuse Or Replaced If Out Of Spec. Replacement Gears Are Redesigned With A Stronger, Less Brittle Material Than O.e. To Prevent Premature Wear, Stripping And Breakage
Motor Magnets Are 100% Recharged, Guaranteeing Efficiency And Reliability
CARDONE® Remanufactured Window Lift Motors are direct-fit O.E. replacements that began as Original Equipment cores. Each unit is re-engineered, renewed and tested to match O.E. performance. For nearly half a century, CARDONE Remanufactured Window Lift Motors have provided rock-solid reliability that you can trust for the long haul.
Latest Bmw 318is Repair Guides & Installation Advice
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Question From Josh2k44 on Overheating issue
Hey guys, my car is slowly overheating. It's a 1997 BMW 318is.
- Thermostat & Housing
- All hoses and coolant fittings
- Water pump that has metal impellers
- Permaseal Head gasket (Block and head shaved - head pressure and crack tested all OK)
- Electric fan
I've also tried bleeding on huge hills and tried several different methods. The normal running temp of the engine is 95 degrees or 203Â°F. My car will hit 97 and take 10 minutes to reach 98 then another 10 to reach 99. At 99 I have to turn it off as I don't want to risk wasting all the money/effort.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated as I'm seriously out of options. Thanks guys
Response From Tom Greenleaf☆☆☆☆☆Top Rated Answer
Many engine operate at close to the Fahrenheit boiling point. Please use at least a "F" or "C" so it's clear. 98C or 99C depending on where you are checking and accuracy is about right is it not?
If the car's gauge doesn't agree with actual temps at the sensor on engine pursue fixing that. This could be just a thermostat just a couple degrees off but please re-explain what scale you meant and where you checked and how,