Shop Nissan Blower Motor Resistors

You first need to test for both power and ground arriving at the motor to determine which one is missing. If neither is missing, you have a bad motor. The resister and switch supply the ground side.

Thanks!...the blower motor never seemed to be going bad? just the fan speeds would go out one at a time so the resistor seemed the logical choice. But I did just replace the resistor and did nothing...No fan?

Unless there's something else I may take it to a local auto repair shop so they can find it and then go from there.

Thanks for the help so far.

Thanks!...the blower motor never seemed to be going bad?

You don't know that. High current draw from a failing motor is usually what takes out the resister.

That makes sense...because something was causing the resistor to fail over time. If it is the blower motor will it be a major pain to replace that? or could it be fairly simple? *fingers crossed* and how much would I be looking at for a new motor?

Thanks, hammer

The blower motor is no big deal. You may have to remove the glove box to get it out though. The aren't that expensive, sometimes under $50
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You still need to do some testing. Nobody is telling you to replace the motor to cure this issue.

Right...I'll have it tested. I already have the glove box removed, replacing the resistor was a pain getting and removing the two 7mm screws, I can see the blower housing well enough. I'll do that next and test it. I'll let you guys know what I come up with.

Thanks for the advice!

I think same dash as one a year newer? Not the worst to do blower. BUT! - At age some of the plastic parts will have sealer that once was pliable and my not be now. If a problem sealing it back up tight (it helps) try some "removable caulking" as it's heat tolerant, like a putty and stays removable for ages so you could try something else if back again or a crack or failure needed ever be done.


Did I say I hate doing under dashcrap yet? Well I do,


T

This is a blower motor. It comes with a new rubber gasket. Just bolt it on. Don't put any kind of sealer on it. That is never done to a blower motor. All it will do is make an unnecessary mess.

Well..I took the truck to Meineke today, turns out it was a burned out connection plug behind the radio. They had to pull back half the dash to reach it. They also had to order the connector, will be in next week...going to have it fixed next Saturday. They didn't even charge me yet for the digonostic and labor so far. Pretty good out fit, the total cost will be around $200 but will be worth it to have a working heater in the truck again.

Hmmmm. Good find on their part. Now I would be curious if a plug/connector got hot enough to fail is why. Ask them too if they think blower motor itself is drawing too much current and or might take it out anyway for a look or possibly just toss it while there if cheap enough and might be now that it's probably even easier while waiting and mostly apart.


Just a thought,


T

Thanks Tom...good advice, when I asked about what caused it to fail they said mostly the resistor, but will also bring up what you said. Hate for the problem to rear it's ugly head again a few days or weeks down the road.

On a side note I explained to the CSR that my truck doesn't get good traction when it's wet or snowy because it's light in the back. He suggested buy cement bags and placing them over the rear wheels in the truck bed, then they will cure and give the extra weigh needed. So I did that, only cost 12 bucks for 4 cement bags, it should help anyway...quick and simple fix.

More I think about it I'd just do the motor but think it might test well and or would have blown the resistor first before the harness? I have this in a 1997 2500 stripped down 4X4 so far so good with dash anything but no miles on the thing either.


About weight in back:
Traction stinks in empty back on pick ups in general. Think about the cement if it breaks open or gets wet you could have real trouble. I've tried very heavily wrapped sand, marble landscape chips also in heavy plastic bags. The real reason for the thing at all is snow plowing so think with the 800+ lbs out front of front bumper it's lifting the back up even lighter. Open back vs withOUT a cap so can see better and fit tall crap in it as needed.


Problem with added weight for me is whole back fills with snow/ice so I really can't shovel it out with anything in it and if it broke bags of whatever what to do never mind cement - yikes. Plow only on for a storm then right off as it suks driving with it no surprise.


Try and I did long ago just cut a 2X4 board behind wheel wells then you can load whatever for weight and it wont slide forward. I kinda need it open so can't leave anything in back if snow/ice coming and must clear that out even if just snow it melts down to a wishbone of ice that melts at the edges and slides around and can't get that out unless you bust it up allowed that once was enough now clear it out right away AFTER any snow gets in it.


You may not have troubles or a cover with cement but think about those going solid on you for your situation. At any rate the sand or rock chips bagged aren't expensive either and can use, give away or something. Solid cement I doubt anyone wants.


It's a strong point that traction suks with rear drive only and must on non snowed or icy roadways or the type I have binds horribly to turn + not meant to drive along with 4X4 on.


Back to the dash stuff. Haven't had the pleasure and long done much of any vehicle work. Same dash essentially as the Suburbans, Tahoe and similar. I think whole dash can be dropped down tilted by lowering steering column first with just some trim and the "U" bolts that hold it so told not so bad and don't want to find out either - too old for this crap in general plus alone some silly things are near impossible.


Good luck with the heater. I'm actually surprised you/they can find the wiring plug pig-tail new and can't imagine most used ones would be bad if a perfect match so it isn't all hacked up to splice in,


T
(edit to say "without" a cap, hence fills with snow is what I meant)

Okay...problem solved with a new connector in the harness. I have heat again!

When I left the shop I could smell a burned wire smell, but I figured it was because they just got through installing the harness connectors and the smell quickly went away.

Anyway, for an old truck it will work, I can make it through the winter.

Now next.....tires for the pick up so the back end will not slip & slide in wet conditions, the wheels are 15" so might be hard to find a good all weather tire to fit the thing? I've got Cooper Cobra's 50's on the back and they get no traction.

Thanks for the input guys!

Sounds good. Odor might be solder and shrink wrap job with the wires to connector - hope it was done that well!


Tires! Flucking (excuse me) "Flintones" best snows and couldn't get over a speed bump with two flakes of snow without a running start damn flucking things! Were NG new and NG now. Nice and smooth on highway which it about never sees


Good luck with your fix and hope it lasts,


T

This thread is done and wasn't yours to begin with so locking it unless original person would like it re-opened by any moderator,


T

I think you have a couple issues going on. blower should work with engine off, key on and probably a resistor issue. I think which is now a separate issue. The rest suggests low coolant level so would be checking that out first and if found low find out why!


T

Hey thanks!

From what I've seen so far, I can replace the resistor behind the glove compartment, right?

The radiator's full to the top, and the reservoir is about 1/4 full when cold.

You probably loosened the latch striker and now it's out of adjustment. Loosen the striker and pull it forward a little and re-tighten it.

If they don't know what a blower motor resister is, then you are just dealing with the guy that cleans the bathroom because they all should know what that is. It's quite common.

! You ask for the part and did know the name of it so if a parts outlet can't even look it up THEY are in trouble.
Sport - get the glovebox back together and find out what's wrong with the thermostat if there or not and that stuff first. You may have some serious work to do before fan speed is the primary problem,


T

First if using videos use the right ones. If you messed up your glovebox for just removing and replacing 4 screws this may not be for you. At least take the light bulb out (if equipped) so you don't kill the battery,


T
(type fixed)

Missing thermostat Maybe?

The temp gauge seems to go up only slightly at slow speeds; doesn't move at all at highway speeds.

If thermostat is missing then WHY? Some people think it will cover up a problem but it doesn't.


Varying temps at speed or idling/stopped. Front drive and cars with electric fans will creep up at low speeds or still and fan will kick on when it senses it's warm enough. At speed the air thru the grille is enough for most.


OK - If thermostat is missing the hole is way too big and coolant would rush to just that end of the engine. Temp gauge might be reading safely NOT overheating but it's causing problem up to damage to engine to do that,


T

? I'd love to witness this or these characteristics. Blower motor speed really should be on it's own not to do with temp output or slow warm ups. Didn't look it up but most are on top of heater box you usually can get to thru glove box removed or lowered.


This slow warm up and unstable temp output NOW WITH APPARENTLY FULL AT RADIATOR AND AT LEAST SOME IN RESERVIOR NEEDS MORE DIAGNOSING.
So - see if upper radiator hose feels slightly warm early as if thermostat isn't closed fully. By rights it should stay pretty cold near radiator till thermostat opens and stay at a normal temp rather exactly while moving along. They can bump up some and back within norms sitting still or driving slow and be normal.
Guess I'd still pressure test cooling system, feel for heat at that radiator hose and hoses at the heater core too. Might be time for a flush and new mix of coolant plus a new thermostat. If quite dirty it usually would be too hot and possibly for heater to never blow warm enough?


Almost certain this car DOES NOT wait for a fully warmed up engine to deliver heat......... meaning some cars usually with climate control will not blow cold air at you but will blow if full fan is requested. Even those if you asked for defroster or vent would blow at the assorted speeds normally not wait to rule that feature out - again doubt this car but check as that could explain the problems all caused by one thing.
Remember is you change, flush coolant and do thermostat to use correct temp rating, 50/50 mix of coolant and be real sure to really have it full at radiator not just recovery tank. Some can be quite a pest. Several cycles of thermostat open, engine warmed up and cooled down again radiator should show full. Always be careful not to open a pressure cap with a system having pressure as felt by same upper hose or more safely fully cooled down again,


T