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Beck Arnley
2013 Nissan Leaf HVAC Blower Motor Resistor Beck Arnley

P311-40B98E6    204-0129  New

Beck Arnley HVAC Blower Motor Resistor
  • Product Attributes:
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
2013 - Nissan Leaf

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2001 dakota blower motor resistor

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From graybear1 on 2001 dakota blower motor resistor

where is the resistor fan only works on max

Response From Double J

The blower motor resistor is mounted to the HVAC unit inside the passenger compartment. It can be accessed from the passenger foot well area.


Response From graybear1 Top Rated Answer


AC/heater blower motor resistor

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From CarAf on AC/heater blower motor resistor

The blower only works on high in 1998 Nissan Altima. From what I've read, it's probably the resistor. Ain't cheap. I saw another post that their new one got blown out again. I wanna make sure that this is what's needed.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

If you want to prevent it from blowing again, change the blower motor too. High current draw is what makes them fail.

Response From kev2

with DVOM check for power to resistor and then check across resistor, also check blower motor amp draw...
google "98 nissan altima blower motor resistor "

PS- expensive? - here aftermarket is acceptable - @20$

blower motor resistor problem 95 chevy pick up

Showing 7 out of 17 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From 8track on blower motor resistor problem 95 chevy pick up

Hey....I have a 1995 c/k 1500 chevy pick up..My blower motor won't work, the fan control slowly stopped working one speed at a time like they are known for it's the resistor right? Well I replaced the resistor and still the fan won't work??

I checked the fuses and the 25amp fuse is fine. Why won't a new resistor fix the blower motor fan from working ?

Could the brand new resistor be bad?...surely not.



Response From Hammer Time

You first need to test for both power and ground arriving at the motor to determine which one is missing. If neither is missing, you have a bad motor. The resister and switch supply the ground side.

Response From 8track

Thanks!...the blower motor never seemed to be going bad? just the fan speeds would go out one at a time so the resistor seemed the logical choice. But I did just replace the resistor and did nothing...No fan?

Unless there's something else I may take it to a local auto repair shop so they can find it and then go from there.

Thanks for the help so far.

Response From Hammer Time

Thanks!...the blower motor never seemed to be going bad?

You don't know that. High current draw from a failing motor is usually what takes out the resister.

Response From 8track

That makes sense...because something was causing the resistor to fail over time. If it is the blower motor will it be a major pain to replace that? or could it be fairly simple? *fingers crossed* and how much would I be looking at for a new motor?

Thanks, hammer

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

The blower motor is no big deal. You may have to remove the glove box to get it out though. The aren't that expensive, sometimes under $50
You still need to do some testing. Nobody is telling you to replace the motor to cure this issue.

Response From 8track

Right...I'll have it tested. I already have the glove box removed, replacing the resistor was a pain getting and removing the two 7mm screws, I can see the blower housing well enough. I'll do that next and test it. I'll let you guys know what I come up with.

Thanks for the advice!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I think same dash as one a year newer? Not the worst to do blower. BUT! - At age some of the plastic parts will have sealer that once was pliable and my not be now. If a problem sealing it back up tight (it helps) try some "removable caulking" as it's heat tolerant, like a putty and stays removable for ages so you could try something else if back again or a crack or failure needed ever be done.

Did I say I hate doing under dashcrap yet? Well I do,


Response From Hammer Time

This is a blower motor. It comes with a new rubber gasket. Just bolt it on. Don't put any kind of sealer on it. That is never done to a blower motor. All it will do is make an unnecessary mess.

Response From 8track

Well..I took the truck to Meineke today, turns out it was a burned out connection plug behind the radio. They had to pull back half the dash to reach it. They also had to order the connector, will be in next week...going to have it fixed next Saturday. They didn't even charge me yet for the digonostic and labor so far. Pretty good out fit, the total cost will be around $200 but will be worth it to have a working heater in the truck again.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmmm. Good find on their part. Now I would be curious if a plug/connector got hot enough to fail is why. Ask them too if they think blower motor itself is drawing too much current and or might take it out anyway for a look or possibly just toss it while there if cheap enough and might be now that it's probably even easier while waiting and mostly apart.

Just a thought,


Response From 8track

Thanks Tom...good advice, when I asked about what caused it to fail they said mostly the resistor, but will also bring up what you said. Hate for the problem to rear it's ugly head again a few days or weeks down the road.

On a side note I explained to the CSR that my truck doesn't get good traction when it's wet or snowy because it's light in the back. He suggested buy cement bags and placing them over the rear wheels in the truck bed, then they will cure and give the extra weigh needed. So I did that, only cost 12 bucks for 4 cement bags, it should help anyway...quick and simple fix.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

More I think about it I'd just do the motor but think it might test well and or would have blown the resistor first before the harness? I have this in a 1997 2500 stripped down 4X4 so far so good with dash anything but no miles on the thing either.

About weight in back:
Traction stinks in empty back on pick ups in general. Think about the cement if it breaks open or gets wet you could have real trouble. I've tried very heavily wrapped sand, marble landscape chips also in heavy plastic bags. The real reason for the thing at all is snow plowing so think with the 800+ lbs out front of front bumper it's lifting the back up even lighter. Open back vs withOUT a cap so can see better and fit tall crap in it as needed.

Problem with added weight for me is whole back fills with snow/ice so I really can't shovel it out with anything in it and if it broke bags of whatever what to do never mind cement - yikes. Plow only on for a storm then right off as it suks driving with it no surprise.

Try and I did long ago just cut a 2X4 board behind wheel wells then you can load whatever for weight and it wont slide forward. I kinda need it open so can't leave anything in back if snow/ice coming and must clear that out even if just snow it melts down to a wishbone of ice that melts at the edges and slides around and can't get that out unless you bust it up allowed that once was enough now clear it out right away AFTER any snow gets in it.

You may not have troubles or a cover with cement but think about those going solid on you for your situation. At any rate the sand or rock chips bagged aren't expensive either and can use, give away or something. Solid cement I doubt anyone wants.

It's a strong point that traction suks with rear drive only and must on non snowed or icy roadways or the type I have binds horribly to turn + not meant to drive along with 4X4 on.

Back to the dash stuff. Haven't had the pleasure and long done much of any vehicle work. Same dash essentially as the Suburbans, Tahoe and similar. I think whole dash can be dropped down tilted by lowering steering column first with just some trim and the "U" bolts that hold it so told not so bad and don't want to find out either - too old for this crap in general plus alone some silly things are near impossible.

Good luck with the heater. I'm actually surprised you/they can find the wiring plug pig-tail new and can't imagine most used ones would be bad if a perfect match so it isn't all hacked up to splice in,

(edit to say "without" a cap, hence fills with snow is what I meant)

Response From 8track

Okay...problem solved with a new connector in the harness. I have heat again!

When I left the shop I could smell a burned wire smell, but I figured it was because they just got through installing the harness connectors and the smell quickly went away.

Anyway, for an old truck it will work, I can make it through the winter.

Now for the pick up so the back end will not slip & slide in wet conditions, the wheels are 15" so might be hard to find a good all weather tire to fit the thing? I've got Cooper Cobra's 50's on the back and they get no traction.

Thanks for the input guys!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sounds good. Odor might be solder and shrink wrap job with the wires to connector - hope it was done that well!

Tires! Flucking (excuse me) "Flintones" best snows and couldn't get over a speed bump with two flakes of snow without a running start damn flucking things! Were NG new and NG now. Nice and smooth on highway which it about never sees

Good luck with your fix and hope it lasts,


Response From gezeichnet

Brand bashing deleted.

By the way, as to your blower motor, you really should have someone test it first. It probably was pulling to much amperage. The one in my Nissan just blew the fuse, and was tested pulling much too much amperage when cold. We have cold weather here now and when cold, the freakin blower wouldn't more no how.

Blower motors don't last forever and when they get weak, replace them. By the way, the replacement motor cost $269.00, minus labor one hour to install. The days of $50. blower motors are long ver in this Country!!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This thread is done and wasn't yours to begin with so locking it unless original person would like it re-opened by any moderator,