Shop Land Rover Lr2 Blower Motor Resistors

Thanks!...the blower motor never seemed to be going bad? just the fan speeds would go out one at a time so the resistor seemed the logical choice. But I did just replace the resistor and did nothing...No fan?

Unless there's something else I may take it to a local auto repair shop so they can find it and then go from there.

Thanks for the help so far.

Right...I'll have it tested. I already have the glove box removed, replacing the resistor was a pain getting and removing the two 7mm screws, I can see the blower housing well enough. I'll do that next and test it. I'll let you guys know what I come up with.

Thanks for the advice!

I think same dash as one a year newer? Not the worst to do blower. BUT! - At age some of the plastic parts will have sealer that once was pliable and my not be now. If a problem sealing it back up tight (it helps) try some "removable caulking" as it's heat tolerant, like a putty and stays removable for ages so you could try something else if back again or a crack or failure needed ever be done.


Did I say I hate doing under dashcrap yet? Well I do,


T

Well..I took the truck to Meineke today, turns out it was a burned out connection plug behind the radio. They had to pull back half the dash to reach it. They also had to order the connector, will be in next week...going to have it fixed next Saturday. They didn't even charge me yet for the digonostic and labor so far. Pretty good out fit, the total cost will be around $200 but will be worth it to have a working heater in the truck again.

Hmmmm. Good find on their part. Now I would be curious if a plug/connector got hot enough to fail is why. Ask them too if they think blower motor itself is drawing too much current and or might take it out anyway for a look or possibly just toss it while there if cheap enough and might be now that it's probably even easier while waiting and mostly apart.


Just a thought,


T

Thanks Tom...good advice, when I asked about what caused it to fail they said mostly the resistor, but will also bring up what you said. Hate for the problem to rear it's ugly head again a few days or weeks down the road.

On a side note I explained to the CSR that my truck doesn't get good traction when it's wet or snowy because it's light in the back. He suggested buy cement bags and placing them over the rear wheels in the truck bed, then they will cure and give the extra weigh needed. So I did that, only cost 12 bucks for 4 cement bags, it should help anyway...quick and simple fix.

More I think about it I'd just do the motor but think it might test well and or would have blown the resistor first before the harness? I have this in a 1997 2500 stripped down 4X4 so far so good with dash anything but no miles on the thing either.


About weight in back:
Traction stinks in empty back on pick ups in general. Think about the cement if it breaks open or gets wet you could have real trouble. I've tried very heavily wrapped sand, marble landscape chips also in heavy plastic bags. The real reason for the thing at all is snow plowing so think with the 800+ lbs out front of front bumper it's lifting the back up even lighter. Open back vs withOUT a cap so can see better and fit tall crap in it as needed.


Problem with added weight for me is whole back fills with snow/ice so I really can't shovel it out with anything in it and if it broke bags of whatever what to do never mind cement - yikes. Plow only on for a storm then right off as it suks driving with it no surprise.


Try and I did long ago just cut a 2X4 board behind wheel wells then you can load whatever for weight and it wont slide forward. I kinda need it open so can't leave anything in back if snow/ice coming and must clear that out even if just snow it melts down to a wishbone of ice that melts at the edges and slides around and can't get that out unless you bust it up allowed that once was enough now clear it out right away AFTER any snow gets in it.


You may not have troubles or a cover with cement but think about those going solid on you for your situation. At any rate the sand or rock chips bagged aren't expensive either and can use, give away or something. Solid cement I doubt anyone wants.


It's a strong point that traction suks with rear drive only and must on non snowed or icy roadways or the type I have binds horribly to turn + not meant to drive along with 4X4 on.


Back to the dash stuff. Haven't had the pleasure and long done much of any vehicle work. Same dash essentially as the Suburbans, Tahoe and similar. I think whole dash can be dropped down tilted by lowering steering column first with just some trim and the "U" bolts that hold it so told not so bad and don't want to find out either - too old for this crap in general plus alone some silly things are near impossible.


Good luck with the heater. I'm actually surprised you/they can find the wiring plug pig-tail new and can't imagine most used ones would be bad if a perfect match so it isn't all hacked up to splice in,


T
(edit to say "without" a cap, hence fills with snow is what I meant)

Okay...problem solved with a new connector in the harness. I have heat again!

When I left the shop I could smell a burned wire smell, but I figured it was because they just got through installing the harness connectors and the smell quickly went away.

Anyway, for an old truck it will work, I can make it through the winter.

Now next.....tires for the pick up so the back end will not slip & slide in wet conditions, the wheels are 15" so might be hard to find a good all weather tire to fit the thing? I've got Cooper Cobra's 50's on the back and they get no traction.

Thanks for the input guys!

Sounds good. Odor might be solder and shrink wrap job with the wires to connector - hope it was done that well!


Tires! Flucking (excuse me) "Flintones" best snows and couldn't get over a speed bump with two flakes of snow without a running start damn flucking things! Were NG new and NG now. Nice and smooth on highway which it about never sees


Good luck with your fix and hope it lasts,


T

Brand bashing deleted.


By the way, as to your blower motor, you really should have someone test it first. It probably was pulling to much amperage. The one in my Nissan just blew the fuse, and was tested pulling much too much amperage when cold. We have cold weather here now and when cold, the freakin blower wouldn't more no how.

Blower motors don't last forever and when they get weak, replace them. By the way, the replacement motor cost $269.00, minus labor one hour to install. The days of $50. blower motors are long ver in this Country!!!