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Gates
2012 Ram C/V Accessory Drive Belt Gates

P311-18892FA    W0133-1920897  New

Qty:
$32.61
Gates Accessory Drive Belt
  • Century Micro V Ribbed Belt
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Ram C/V
Gates
2014 Ram C/V Accessory Drive Belt Gates

P311-18892FA    W0133-1920897  New

Qty:
$32.61
Gates Accessory Drive Belt
  • Century Micro V Ribbed Belt
  • Routing:Crk,Tens,Wp,Alt,Idler,Ps,Comp
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Ram C/V
Gates
2015 Ram C/V Accessory Drive Belt Gates

P311-18892FA    W0133-1920897  New

Qty:
$32.61
Gates Accessory Drive Belt
  • Century Micro V Ribbed Belt
  • Routing:Crk, Tens, Wp, Alt, Idler, Ps, Comp
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2015 - Ram C/V
Gates
2012 Ram 5500 Accessory Drive Belt Gates

P311-13A67EF    W0133-1940405  New

Qty:
$63.11
Gates Accessory Drive Belt
  • Century Micro V Ribbed Belt
  • with Air Conditioning
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Ram 5500
Gates
2012 Ram 2500 Accessory Drive Belt 6 Cyl 6.7L Gates

P311-13A67EF    W0133-1940405  New

Qty:
$63.11
Gates Accessory Drive Belt
  • Century Micro V Ribbed Belt
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Ram 2500 L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -
Mopar
2012 Ram C/V Accessory Drive Belt Mopar

P311-3894E23    W0133-1920897  New

Qty:
$51.16
Mopar Accessory Drive Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Ram C/V
Mopar
2014 Ram C/V Accessory Drive Belt Mopar

P311-3894E23    W0133-1920897  New

Qty:
$51.16
Mopar Accessory Drive Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Routing:Crk,Tens,Wp,Alt,Idler,Ps,Comp
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Ram C/V
Mopar
2015 Ram C/V Accessory Drive Belt Mopar

P311-3894E23    W0133-1920897  New

Qty:
$51.16
Mopar Accessory Drive Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Routing:Crk, Tens, Wp, Alt, Idler, Ps, Comp
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2015 - Ram C/V

Latest Ram Repair and Belt Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

car noise

Showing 4 out of 22 Posts | Show 18 Hidden Posts
Question From RichardGilpin on car noise

2006 dodge ram 2500 w/ cummins deisel engine. i hear a high pitch noise like a loose belt when I accelerate. never did this before until after i changed the transmission filter and fluid.

Response From kensoncustom

did the filter look the same as the one you took out they have a deep pan filter and a short pan filter.do you have gasket instaled properly?sounds a restriction

Response From RichardGilpin

yes, I compared the old filter to the new one, and they matched. the gasket installed correctly. I was thinking about changing the filter again.

Response From nickwarner

Did you change the fluid as routine maintenance or was this acting up a bit and you thought a fluid change would help?

Response From RichardGilpin

I changed the filter as routine maintanence, and also because it felt like the transmission was slipping when I turn a corner and accelerated, like maybe it was low on fluid.

Response From Sidom

It probably would've been a good idea to check the fluid level before you did the service just to verify if this was a low fluid problem or something more serious.

Tranny services like any other service is to be done as maintenance and not to correct a problem. With transmissions, if you let the maintenance go to a point where you are getting shifting issues. You've done serious damage to the tranny and it doesn't have long to live, even if the service has seemed to "help".

Now if it was just low, that would actually be a better thing but the leak would definitely need to be fix......

Response From mmiigu Top Rated Answer

hii iam new user

Response From Hammer Time

NOOOOOO...... you are an ex-spammer and gone

Response From RichardGilpin

no I did not change the oil cooler filter, only the transmission filter. there were no signs of any leaks. I was overseas for about a year and the truck stayed parked in the driveway. I had a family member start my truck about once a week and let it run for awhile just to keep the battires charged. when i returned from overseas and started driving again thats is when it felt like it was slipping when i turned a corner and accelerated. it would not slip from a normal stop and go, only when cornering.

Response From Sidom

Sitting can be very hard on a vehicle. It's good you were having it started but it's still not the same as driving it....
I'm guessing that you weren't way over on the mileage for the service and it may just be a seal getting hard and no sealing correctly. 1 year isn't a killer & hopefully the service & driving it again will take care of the shifting issue....

Is the noise still there? You may want to see if you can duplicate the noise while the truck is sitting still so you can trace down where it is coming from....It very well could be a belt. Rubber parts & the exhaust take sitting the hardest...

Response From Discretesignals

Sorry I made a boo boo post earlier. 48RE doesn't use an oil cooler filter even though the TSBs in the 48RE section were for the 45RFE / 545RFE.

Response From RichardGilpin

cant say for sure what type of transmission I have, but I was thinking it was the 44RE. the truck is a 2006 dodge ram 2500 mega-cab with the cummins diesel.

Response From Discretesignals

It's definitely not the 44RE. It's a 48RE.

Response From Discretesignals

If your brake torquing it and it is making the noise, you could have a torque converter problem if the noise is coming from the transmission. I'd run it to a transmission shop and let them have a listen.

Response From RichardGilpin

sounds like the logical thing to do at this point. Thanks for your input.

Response From Discretesignals

Let us know how things go.

Response From RichardGilpin

ok

Response From RichardGilpin

yes the noise is still there. it will not make the noise when it is sitting still. i have revved up the engine in park and also in nuetral but it does not make the noise. it only makes the noise when i aacelerate, especially if i go to get on the freeway. it does not slip only makes that high pitch noise

Response From Discretesignals

Does it make the noise if you brake torque it?

Response From RichardGilpin

yes it does. it almost sounds like a dry bearing in the turbo.

Response From Discretesignals

Did you use ATF+4 fluid? Fluid level has to be checked with the fluid warmed up and the transmission in neutral with the engine running.

Response From RichardGilpin

yes, i used the atf+4 synthetic that it calls for.

2000 Ram 1500 heater

Showing 7 out of 9 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From mattc on 2000 Ram 1500 heater

Hi - new visitor here - thanks for the opportunity. I took my 2000 Ram to the shop yesterday for a new water pump and belt. All of this went fine but now I have no heat. I've checked all of the vacuum lines I can find, I can feel the heater core behind the glove box and it's hot and the blower is working fine. The shop is closed and I need to have my truck at work Monday. Could it be air blend and if so is it electric or vacuum? Is there any way to "rig" this into the correct position until I can fix it? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Response From jj

under hood pass. side should be a black vacuum line by dryer follow it to engine checking it for breaks and still hooked up

Response From Jeff Norfolk

jj, I think the blend door actuator is electric per the previous posts from 2 month ago.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

jj: Appeciate any help and comments. Look at the dates or the original posts - some are just archives,

T

Response From Double J

Mode Door = vacuum motor
Blend Air Door = electric actuator
Fresh/Recirc = vacuum motor

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Nice find JIM. With this recent water pump job and this problem right away I suspect it might not be properly filled with coolant - even hot air will make the core hot to the touch but not transfer heat worth a damn. Check level at radiator cap and then adjust level at recovery tank,

T

Response From mattc

Thanks guys, the coolant level is good and flowing. I'm really suspecting the air blend but I'm having a hard time believing the coincedence of timing. The last time I had the truck fixed there it was the air conditioning and I lost the cruise control. It seems a bit of a chore to get that far into the dash - any diagnostic suggestions before I drop another $1000 on the truck? Thanks again.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The coincidence is uncanny?? JIM found that the blend door is an electric actuator. Perhaps you can get a peek or hand on it going up from under passenger's side lower dash or thru the glove box. I don't know but it might be electrically controlling a lever that you could get at. Do the other functions of the control head work?

T

Response From mattc Top Rated Answer

Found the actuator - thanks - unfortunately there isn't anything exposed enough to get a tool on. Yes, everything else works. I can't dismantle anything either due to proximity to the floor. It sounds like I should brace for another bill huh?

96 Dodge Intrepid AC belt

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From pipedreams on 96 Dodge Intrepid AC belt

I need to replace the AC belt on a friends intrepid, but I can't see where or how it adjusts? The belt goes from the pully to the compressor down to what LOOKS like what might be a tensioner...but I can't see how to loosen it to get the belt on?

Suggestions?

Thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'll give this a shot. Hard without seeing it and it's not that hard to do. I think it uses a spring loaded tentioner pulley that you retract buy wrench, or socket or some a square hole that may hold a standard flex bar without the socket. If you see a threaded bolt by the front at the front by the alternator it's NOT self tentioned and you would then loosen that up. There should be a diagram for how to string the new belt in on a sticker under the hood.

If the retractable tentioner type just be careful of the tool(s) used that they don't hit anything important with the old belt off!

Tricks are to use a bungee cord if alone to hold the new belt or a helper if fussy till it's back on. Double check that it is exactly in the right track on the pulleys or you will see it fly off in a minute and need yet another or worse it break something else. If no routing diagram take a picture before you start. The routing is nasty to figure out and the job should be able to do in minutes, Good luck, T

Response From pipedreams

I think we're talking about different belts. The main belt that runs the alternator is a serpentine belt that has a tensioner..........that one has to come off to put the Compressor belt on.The compressor has it's own, non serpentine belt that only runs between the front pully, the compress or and that "unknown" pulley below it. It looks like an idler pully, ecept it's the only place that belt could be tensioned..........the compressor can't move...and of course the front pully can't either.............I just can't see any way to move that bottom......tensioner/pully........??

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry - This is a case where my not seeing it is screwing me up. I really thought almost all cars used just one belt by 1996 but never say never. Dan here may come by and be able to post a diagram showing it and I can't with any software I have, Hang in there, T

Response From pipedreams Top Rated Answer

Many thanks! I thought the same thing myself.........I have a 96 Ram V10 and it has one belt for everything.....If everything else with the A/C didn't look factory I would think this was aftermarket, but it's not.......just a strange transition time maybe........