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ContiTech
2008 Mini Cooper Accessory Drive Belt ContiTech

P311-13AFE31    W0133-1820036  New

Qty:
$22.42
ContiTech Accessory Drive Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Multi-Rib Serpentine Belt
  • For vehicles originally equipped with John Cooper Works kit
Brand: ContiTech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Aspiration
2008 - Mini Cooper Convertible Supercharged
ContiTech
2006 Mini Cooper Accessory Drive Belt ContiTech

P311-13AFE31    W0133-1820036  New

Qty:
$22.42
ContiTech Accessory Drive Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Multi-Rib Serpentine Belt
  • with John Cooper Works Kit (S3ALA)
Brand: ContiTech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2006 - Mini Cooper Supercharged
ContiTech
2008 Mini Cooper Accessory Drive Belt ContiTech

P311-13AFE31    W0133-1820036  New

Qty:
$22.42
ContiTech Accessory Drive Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • For vehicles originally equipped with John Cooper Works kit
Brand: ContiTech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Aspiration
2008 - Mini Cooper Convertible Supercharged
ContiTech
2006 Mini Cooper Accessory Drive Belt ContiTech

P311-13AFE31    W0133-1820036  New

Qty:
$22.42
ContiTech Accessory Drive Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with John Cooper Works Kit (S3ALA)
Brand: ContiTech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2006 - Mini Cooper Supercharged

Latest Mini Repair and Belt Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

93 Chrysler MiniVan Alternator replacement & Belt

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From Dean L S on 93 Chrysler MiniVan Alternator replacement & Belt

I have a 1993 Chrysler Town & Country MiniVan with a 3.3L eng. I need to replace the alternator and it's been a few years since I've done this, the last time my car had the old "V" belt around the alternator but this has a flat belt. The alt. looks easy enough but how do you handle the belt?? How do your loosen it & then tighten it back. A diagram would help.

Thank You
Roger

Response From Dean L S

Is there a special tool or trick that is needed to get the lower bolt off the alternator. It set's next to the fire wall & I can't even get a socket on the bolt head. You have to approach it from the drivers side & you can't even see the bolt head.

Thank You

Response From re-tired Top Rated Answer

It's best reached from under the van . Best done with a floor jack and a good set of jackstands . If your going to be a DiY'er, it's the price you pay .As your skills increase so will your tool and equipment collection . Before you know it you will be almost brought to tears when your wife gives you a 3/8 drive triple chrome plated 30' offset fine tooth ratchet costing two days pay for an anniversary gift.

Response From chickenhouse

This is the serpentine belt system, 1 belt runs everything. There is a diagram on the core support or thereabouts showing the proper routing of the belt if you take it completly off. There is 1 pully that is a belt tensioner, it has a bolt in the middle of it (usually) that you put a wrench on and it will move up, allowing freeplay on the belt. Slide the belt off the alternator pulley and release the tension from the idler pulley. Then you can R&R the alt. Of course the battery has been disconnected, same way as the V-belt engines.

mini or regulaur spray gun or both?

Showing 4 out of 6 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From stevenn21 on mini or regulaur spray gun or both?

i am buying a compressor and spray gun to mod some pc and xbox cases should i get a mini gun or a regular one or both?

at first i will be painting xbox 360 cases im looking at this compressor:
BURISCH Air Compressor 3HP 90L Belt Drive Twin 14CFM Twin Cylinder

s this compressor overkill for spraying cases?


and i want a decent gun after reading a thread on this forum i have decided i want either the SHARPE FINEX FX1000 MINI HVLP or the Sata Jet Spray Gun 3000 HVLP digital

the sharpe is a mini and the sata isnt which would be the best option the mini or the regular?

thanks in advance guys

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

Since you're just painting a few small things get a mini. Less waste of paint and finer control on small parts. If you are just planning to paint these few things it might work out cheaper to just have your local paint supply store mix up the color you want in an aerosal can. If you're careful and do your prep right you can make it come out alright.

I think the compressor is way overkill for what you are trying to do, but if you have other uses for it it may be a good thing to get.

Response From stevenn21

thanks for the reply i dont have any other uses for the the compressor i dont even have a workshop just a 6ft shed to store it.
can you recommend a more appropriate compressor for this task?

im in the uk

this is a link to the information i have read regarding the specification of the compressor i should buy:

link deleted ............ not allowed

Response From nickwarner

I wouldn't even know what brands are sold over in the UK. What I noted in the specs of the one you mentioned was it was a 14CFM pump. Thats pretty heavy flow if thats not a metric measurement. I prefer belt drive to direct drive, but they do cost a bit more upfront. I have found they last longer and they definately run a ton quieter. You aren't going to be spraying a large gun for a long time, so a big compressor isn't needed. Also, with just a small shed to work out of it would kill off a lot of usable space. I would look at something with maybe an 8 or ten gallon tank and belt drive. It should supply your air needs for this gun easily.

An important thing to not forget about is to mount a regulator, filter and moisture collector on the port coming out of the tank. Make sure you use the drain on the bottom of the tank before each time you paint to drain any condensed moisture. You would also want a small filter mounted at the inlet of your spray gun which can be found in packs at your paint supply store. You need to set the regulator to the pressure recommended by the maker of your gun, and you must make sure the air coming through the gun is clean and dry. I would keep a hose just for painting and cap it off when you aren't using it to keep dust out. It takes very little dust or moisture to wreck a paint job no matter how well prepped or sprayed. With painting plastic like xbox cases you will also want to make sure you spray it with some adhesion promoter first or the paint can fall right off later. Make sure the promoter is compatible with the paint and clearcoat you are using too. The salesman at the paint shop can make sure you are getting the right stuff. I once saw a guy work for a week doing the fine touches on a Camaro, got the color on right and then used the wrong clearcoat. Looked fine until about an hour later when it looked like a snake shedding its skin. He had to redo the whole thing and was not pleased.

Response From stevenn21

thanks for the info about keeping the air quality high and paint compatibility thats a great help i will be getting a belt driven one.
i will be using a mini hvlp spray gun.

i think the lowest tank size i will consider is 50l just in case i decide to use it for other things in the future.

but it looks like the ones sold on ebay are not much cheaper than the 90l ones.

the 6ft shed is only for storing the compressor i actually have a 4m x 5m heavy duty marquee to spray in its got a 9ft american pool table in it which i will cover prior to painting.

Response From nickwarner

Look around farther than just Ebay for compressors. You have all sorts of hardware and home improvement centers that carry them, tool stores, etc. Might even score a nice used one in the classifieds. I think you guys have craigslist listings around you too. I've bought some decent used equipment from people on that before. Just have to make sure you test it first so you don't get burned. Knowing what it costs new helps to make sure you don't pay near or over retail cost on something used. If you look at a used one, undo the tank drain and look at what comes out. If its just a bit of water no big deal, thats normal as the humidity in the air will condense in the tank. But if you see oil thats a sign the compressor is wearing out and bypassing its own lube. You definately don't want that.

replacing the timing belt

Showing 5 out of 7 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From indy4192 on replacing the timing belt

2002 Kia Sorento Mini van
134,000 miles
6 cylinder

I have been told it would be wise to replace the timing belt on this mini van i just purchased. My question is how difficult for a trained mechanic is this to do? I have found that the belt itself runs about $95, what kind of labor costs am I looking at to have this repair done.

Response From Sidom

This isn't the most difficult job to do but not the easiest either. Book time you are looking around 5hrs labor to install the belt.

You might what to double check the year on that, I'm showing 03 as the 1st year for the Sorento. If it's 4WD the labor will be higher.....

You would be very wise to change the timing belt if you just purchased the van. They recommend the belt every 60k, so this van should be on it's 2nd belt overdue for the 3rd unless it has been changed already, then you would be good.....

These are interference engines so unless you are 100% positive it's been changed, change it. It's not worth the gamble...

Response From indy4192


This isn't the most difficult job to do but not the easiest either. Book time you are looking around 5hrs labor to install the belt.

You might what to double check the year on that, I'm showing 03 as the 1st year for the Sorento. If it's 4WD the labor will be higher.....

You would be very wise to change the timing belt if you just purchased the van. They recommend the belt every 60k, so this van should be on it's 2nd belt overdue for the 3rd unless it has been changed already, then you would be good.....

These are interference engines so unless you are 100% positive it's been changed, change it. It's not worth the gamble... I apologize it's a Sedona mini van, not the Sorento. As for beign 4 wd that I do not know. It seems that the previous owner did keep up basic maintenance, but not sure if the timeing belt was changed out. I am finding I am looking at about $450 minimum which means it may be a few months till I can save up the monies to have it done.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Butting in

Indy - many of these cars came with 10yr/100K drivetrain warranties from new at least around me. Since it voided that warranty if you didn't do the suggested maintenance you can guess it was done at about 60K and now at 130+ it may have been skipped.

Find out! $450 is money but you are risking your engine! 1-2-3 Big Bang!

T

Response From indy4192


Butting in

Indy - many of these cars came with 10yr/100K drivetrain warranties from new at least around me. Since it voided that warranty if you didn't do the suggested maintenance you can guess it was done at about 60K and now at 130+ it may have been skipped.

Find out! $450 is money but you are risking your engine! 1-2-3 Big Bang!

T



That is kinda what I figured, but I checked with the Dealership where the original owner bought the car and had some other work done and no record of the timing belt being changed out, in fact their last record of doing work was 34,000 miles. I would be surprised if they took it to another Kia dealership since they lived close to that one. I know getting it done is important, but it is going to take me a couple of months to come up with the $450 to get it done, so we won't be gunning the engine or such and just hope it hangs in there.

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

You know, in maintenance manual there is a footnote that in CA it's 105k not 60K. While very unlikely it's the original belt, it's not totally impossible... If you can get to one of the top cam gear covers, take the bolts out and pull it back far enough to see the belt you may want to do this...

Normally you can't "look" at a timing belt to tell if it's bad or not but I've changed some that were way over due and these belts were so cracked I don't see how the engine was still running...... If yours looks cracked to the eye.....I would seriously not drive this van until you have the money to change the belt.....Kia's are very bad about "gernading" engines when the belts go.......... and it can happen at any speed.....

Response From indy4192

From looking at the van overall it looks like it was very well maintained. From the info i have been able to get it looks like the previous owners were an older couple that I kinda feel took good care of the van during the time they owned it. I am going to try and have it checked here soon, i am in a situation of where I will have to just hope and pray it's in decent condition and doesn't go, because I have to have the car to get to and from work.