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Best Selling Genuine Replacement Belt Idler Pulleys

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Gates
2001 Mazda Tribute Drive Belt Idler Pulley Gates

P311-52F99A8    New

Qty:
$22.58
Gates Drive Belt Idler Pulley
  • Also used as tensioner pulley in many applications
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Mazda Tribute
Gates
1994 Mazda 929 Drive Belt Idler Pulley Gates

P311-3851CA7    New

Qty:
$33.10
Gates Drive Belt Idler Pulley
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Mazda 929
Gates
2001 Mazda Miata Drive Belt Idler Pulley Gates

P311-3851CA7    New

Qty:
$33.10
Gates Drive Belt Idler Pulley
  • with A/C
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Mazda Miata
APA/URO Parts
2003 Jaguar S-Type Drive Belt Idler Pulley APA/URO Parts

P311-55AABED    New

Qty:
$63.67
APA/URO Parts Drive Belt Idler Pulley
Brand: APA/URO Parts
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
2003 - Jaguar S-Type
APA/URO Parts
2006 Jaguar XK8 Drive Belt Idler Pulley APA/URO Parts

P311-55AABED    New

Qty:
$63.67
APA/URO Parts Drive Belt Idler Pulley
  • Chas: -B17758
Brand: APA/URO Parts
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Jaguar XK8
Gates
2006 Jaguar XK8 Drive Belt Idler Pulley Gates

P311-13C8530    New

Qty:
$43.76
Gates Drive Belt Idler Pulley
  • Chas: A45175-, Fits opposite acc. belt tensioner assembly
Brand: Gates
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Jaguar XK8
Gates
2007 Jaguar XK Drive Belt Idler Pulley Gates

P311-13C8530    New

Qty:
$43.76
Gates Drive Belt Idler Pulley
  • Fits opposite acc. belt tensioner assembly
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Jaguar XK
Gates
2006 Jaguar XKR Drive Belt Idler Pulley Gates

P311-13C8530    New

Qty:
$43.76
Gates Drive Belt Idler Pulley
  • Chas: A45175-, Fits opposite acc. belt tensioner assembly
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Jaguar XKR
Gates
2009 Jaguar XJ8 Drive Belt Idler Pulley Gates

P311-13C8530    New

Qty:
$43.76
Gates Drive Belt Idler Pulley
  • Located: On Alternator Bracket
Brand: Gates
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Jaguar XJ8
Genuine
2002 Jaguar X-Type Drive Belt Idler Pulley Genuine

P311-1DD9C32    New

Qty:
$98.18
Genuine Drive Belt Idler Pulley
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Smooth Pulley
Brand: Genuine
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Jaguar X-Type
Gates
2002 Jaguar X-Type Drive Belt Idler Pulley Gates

P311-13FD3A0    New

Qty:
$99.16
Gates Drive Belt Idler Pulley
  • Smooth Pulley
  • Upper
Brand: Gates
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Jaguar X-Type
Genuine
2003 Jaguar S-Type Drive Belt Idler Pulley Genuine

P311-2FC8B08    New

Qty:
$124.69
Genuine Drive Belt Idler Pulley
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Updated Metal Version - Requires the use of C2C 37057 Drive Belt Tensioner, C2C 37055 Supercharger Drive Belt and C2C 37056 Idler Mounting Bracket.
Brand: Genuine
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Vehicle
2003 - Jaguar S-Type
Genuine
2007 Jaguar Super V8 Drive Belt Idler Pulley Genuine

P311-2FC8B08    New

Qty:
$124.69
Genuine Drive Belt Idler Pulley
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Chas: H17573-
  • Updated Metal Version - Requires the use of C2C 37057 Drive Belt Tensioner, C2C 37055 Supercharger Drive Belt and C2C 37056 Idler Mounting Bracket.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Jaguar Super V8
Genuine
2010 Jaguar XFR Drive Belt Idler Pulley Genuine

P311-2FC8B08    New

Qty:
$124.69
Genuine Drive Belt Idler Pulley
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • For Supercharger Belt

    Left Side of Tensioner - Below Supercharger Pulley
  • Updated Metal Version - Requires the use of C2C 37057 Drive Belt Tensioner, C2C 37055 Supercharger Drive Belt and C2C 37056 Idler Mounting Bracket.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Jaguar XFR
Genuine
2011 Jaguar XJ Drive Belt Idler Pulley Genuine

P311-2FC8B08    New

Qty:
$124.69
Genuine Drive Belt Idler Pulley
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Left Side of Tensioner - Below Supercharger Pulley
  • Updated Metal Version - Requires the use of C2C 37057 Drive Belt Tensioner, C2C 37055 Supercharger Drive Belt and C2C 37056 Idler Mounting Bracket.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Jaguar XJ
Genuine
2013 Jaguar XF Drive Belt Idler Pulley Genuine

P311-2FC8B08    New

Qty:
$124.69
Genuine Drive Belt Idler Pulley
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • For Supercharger Belt, Grooved
  • Updated Metal Version - Requires the use of C2C 37057 Drive Belt Tensioner, C2C 37055 Supercharger Drive Belt and C2C 37056 Idler Mounting Bracket.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - Jaguar XF
Genuine
2014 Jaguar XKR Drive Belt Idler Pulley Genuine

P311-2FC8B08    New

Qty:
$124.69
Genuine Drive Belt Idler Pulley
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • For Supercharger Belt
  • Updated Metal Version - Requires the use of C2C 37057 Drive Belt Tensioner, C2C 37055 Supercharger Drive Belt and C2C 37056 Idler Mounting Bracket.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Jaguar XKR
Genuine
2014 Jaguar XJR Drive Belt Idler Pulley Genuine

P311-2FC8B08    New

Qty:
$124.69
Genuine Drive Belt Idler Pulley
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • To Chassis/VIN V39426, For Supercharger Belt
  • Updated Metal Version - Requires the use of C2C 37057 Drive Belt Tensioner, C2C 37055 Supercharger Drive Belt and C2C 37056 Idler Mounting Bracket.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Jaguar XJR
Genuine
1995 Jaguar XJR Drive Belt Idler Pulley Genuine

P311-25CDF91    New

Qty:
$34.61
Genuine Drive Belt Idler Pulley
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Supercharger - with Rib Belt
Brand: Genuine
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Jaguar XJR
Genuine
1995 Jaguar XJR Drive Belt Idler Pulley Genuine

P311-515D0BD    New

Qty:
$34.61
Genuine Drive Belt Idler Pulley
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Supercharger - with Flat Belt
Brand: Genuine
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Jaguar XJR

Latest Belt Idler Pulley Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2002 chrysler intrepid loud whining noise when accelerating

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From burns.aidan on 2002 chrysler intrepid loud whining noise when accelerating

2002 chrysler intrepid.... Car makes a loud whining noise. In park. Neautral reverse. Drive. Doesnt matter what gear. Aslong as im applying acceleration. Sounds like it is coming from the engine. I checked out the pulleys on the belt. Idler pulleys r shot... They wobble. I will b replacing these anyway but would this b the reason it whines??

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Hey - you know you need some pulleys so check all belt driven items while there too,

T

Weird purring type noise when car is stopped

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Weird purring type noise when car is stopped

I have a 2004 Chevy Malibu with a 4 cylinder engine and around 68.000 miles. I know it needs new breaks as well as an oil change which I have an appointment already to get. Lately, when I am stopped like at a stop sign or red light, it makes a weird purring type sound. Does anyone know what could cause this? It almost sounds like it wants to turn off. Also, sometimes when I am stopped and I go to hit the gas to go again, it hesitates.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Are any of your neighbors missing a cat? Sorry, just couldn't resist. When you take it in for the brakes and oil change, mention the noise to the techs. Hopefully, it'll be doing it when you are there. I can't think what'd make a 'purring' noise. Growling, yes. (that'd be my wife)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hey! I can't find Kitty!



T

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

The same thing happened to me and it turned out my serpentine belt was loose. I had to take it in and get the belt, idler pulley, and tensioner replaced. Hope this helps

1990 Subi Legacy EJ22 SOHC overheating

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From subisnacks on 1990 Subi Legacy EJ22 SOHC overheating

Hi, I have a 1990 Subaru Legacy wagon with EJ22 SOHC engine. It has been overheating, mechanic told me it was the water pump. So I had a car project weekend & here's what all I fixed: new water pump, new thermostat, new timing belt & idler pulleys, new valve cover gaskets, new oil filter & oil change, new coolant, new radiator hoses & clamps, new alternator belt. After all that work its still overheating, it starts up & temp starts to go up, but it doesn't stop at operating temp it just continues to go up & up & in about 15 minutes the temp is thru the roof (either at idle or while driving, driving seems to get it there faster). So I'm thinking clogged radiator? Any other ideas?

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

You could have a plugged radiator, could've put the thermostat in backwards, could have blown a head gasket or may be as simple as you haven't gotten the air bed out of the system yet. Double check your work.

99 ford explorer squeaking/chirping sound

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From nashay on 99 ford explorer squeaking/chirping sound

I have a 99 ford explorer that started having a squeaking/chirping noise form under the hood about a month ago.

I have had it checked out by 2 different certified mechanics the first was convinced it was the serp belt and/or the idler and tension. all three have since been replace. the noise stopped completely for 1 night.

The second mechanic isn't quite sure what the noise is he pulled out a stethoscope looking object and stuck it in various parts of the engine to try to find the source of the noise. Nothing. He now recommends I come in for a $50 "in-depth" inspection.

A bit about the history of the car.
-it has been owned by my partners family since it was about 4 years old, has been very well maintained, overhauled in 2014, thermostat replaced about 3 months ago due to it failing, serp belt, idler pulley, and tension pulley all been replaced in an attempt to silence the noise.

Lastly it has been suggested that the noise may be related to the water pump, thinking it might have been damaged by the thermostat failing

I am at a loss and so is everyone I have spoken to, does anyone have any idea what might be causing this noise?

Response From Hammer Time

What engine does this have? Need the 8th digit of the VIN.

Response From nashay


it is a 4.0 and x

Response From Hammer Time

I'm betting your problem is the Camshaft sensor synchronizer which is the unit that the cam sensor is mounted on.


Response From GC

With HT, and my $.02. DO NOT IGNORE THIS, if it is the cam synchro, if it comes apart, it can take out your engine. Also if the noise goes away, its not a good thing. Have that checked out immediately.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Ditto on the syncro, especially if you take the belt off and it is still there.

When they chirp they sound like this one:

Clack Clack

Showing 3 out of 8 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From MrEscort on Clack Clack

Hey guys, I'm new here but I've been creeping around for awhile. I figured I'd finally start posting and I've got a sound diagnosis video for you.

This car is a 2000 Ford Escort, the zx2 model with the 2.0 DOHC and VCT. I just bought it (very cheaply) as a parts car... but managed to get it running again when I found all that was wrong was a timing belt idler pulley had let go. Now that I've got it running... I've got what I fear may be some Rod Knock happening.

This car is an ATX as well and I've heard that a cracked or loose flex plate can make similar sounds to bad lower ends. I've also noticed excessive carbon build up on the #1 Cyl Spark Plug.

The knock starts immediately at start-up and continues as long as the car is running. It never really goes away. It doesn't get better or worse as the car warms up, it stays pretty consistent. Also, I forgot to rev the car in the video, but the knock does follow the revs... it will knock "faster" as you rev the engine up until around the 3.5-4k mark where it gets pretty much drowned out by other engine noise.

Link to Vid:



So whatcha think? Stuck Valve? Flex Plate? Or straight up rebuild/engine swap?

Thanks in advance for any info/insight!

Response From Discretesignals

What you could do is rev the engine to around 2000 rpm and disable each injector one at a time. See if the noise changes pitch on any particular cylinder just to confirm it isn't a rod bearing. You can also use a mechanic's stethoscope around the valve cover to get an idea where the noise is loudest.

A stuck valve would probably cause the engine to skip. A cracked flex plate would probably change noise frequency as you put the transmission in and out of gear and it would be really loud around the bell housing area.

Response From Discretesignals

You need to make a video of the noise while revving the engine. The more I listen to it the more it sounds like rod noise.

Response From MrEscort Top Rated Answer

I do what I can for you tomorrow. I can tell it you it doesn't get any worse (louder, more "clunky") with revs... it's just the same sound sped up to match revs.

Thanks for your input thus far... I was prepared for the worst but was hoping that maybe there was a possibility it could be something else.

Response From MrEscort

quick update... just pulled wires and disabled injectors one by one... no difference in sound... taking it to my uncles now to get it up in ramps and check underneath... should have a rev vid and any info about loose tranny components when I get back.

Response From MrEscort



There's the second vid with Revs. I hauled out a big screw driver and listened for noise around the engine.

Normal at Oil Pan
Normal at Lower Block
Normal at Left Valve Cover (where VCT resides)
More pronounced and "resonant" at right side Valve Cover

Constant Tick Tick Tick from Trans Bell housing...

Maybe, just maybe....

Response From zmame

There are special tools you need too in order to put a new belt on these cars. TDC timing peg and CAM allignment tool.. They are basically a flat steel plate and a long metal peg to hold the crank.

I would make sure that is in order first befor diaging any further.
________________________________________________________

Ford Instructions

Timing Drive Components — Timing Belt
Special Tool(s)
Crankshaft TDC Timing Peg
303-574 (T97P-6000-A) /pubs/auxf/%7EWS-V-B/1627/ST1903A.gif Camshaft Alignment Timing Tool
303-465 (T94P-6256-CH)
Removal

  1. Grasp the spark plug boot firmly and with a twisting pulling motion, disconnect the spark plug wires from the spark plugs.

  1. NOTE: If an original spark plug is reused, install it in the same cylinder from which it was removed. New spark plugs can be used in any cylinder.
    NOTE: Use compressed air to remove any foreign material from the spark plug well before removing the spark plugs.Remove the spark plugs.

  1. Remove the valve cover. For additional information, refer to Valve Cover in this section.
  1. Disconnect the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.
  1. Remove the timing belt covers. For additional information, refer to Timing Drive Components — Timing Belt Covers in this section.
  1. Remove the catalytic converter. For additional information, refer to Section 309-00.

  1. NOTE: Cylinder No. 1 is at top dead center (TDC) when the keyway is in the 12 o'clock position.Position cylinder No. 1 just prior to TDC.
  1. Remove the stud bolt.
  1. Install the crankshaft TDC timing peg.
  1. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise against the timing peg.

  1. /pubs/auxf/%7EWS-V-B/3836/ani_caut.gif CAUTION: If the camshaft timing belt is to be reused, mark the direction of the camshaft timing belt to the rotation of the camshaft prior to removal, or premature wear or failure may occur.Relieve the tension on the timing belt tensioner pulley.
  2. Loosen the tensioner pulley bolt.
  3. Release the tension on the timing belt by disconnecting the tensioner tab from the timing cover back plate.
  1. Remove the timing belt.
  2. Slide the timing belt off the camshaft sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket.
  1. Inspect the timing belt for wear. Install a new timing belt as required.

Installation

  1. /pubs/auxf/%7EWS-V-B/3836/ani_caut.gif CAUTION: The camshaft must be held stationary at the hexagons with locking pliers. Do not use the alignment tool to hold the camshaft in position or damage to the camshaft may occur.
    NOTE: To loosen the camshaft pulleys, hold the camshafts by the hexagon.Loosen the camshaft pulleys.
    1. Remove the blanking plug from the exhaust camshaft pulley.
    1. Loosen the exhaust camshaft pulley bolt.
    1. Loosen the intake camshaft pulley bolt.


  1. NOTE: Rotate the camshafts clockwise as necessary.Install the camshaft alignment timing tool on the back of the camshafts.

  1. NOTE: Cylinder No. 1 is at top dead center (TDC) when the keyway is in the 12 o'clock position.Confirm the crankshaft position is at TDC (No. 1 cylinder) by rotating it clockwise against the alignment peg.

  1. /pubs/auxf/%7EWS-V-B/3836/ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Do not rotate the crankshaft; as necessary check that it is still resting against the timing pin.
    NOTE: The lug of the belt tensioner should not be hooked in the sheet metal cover during timing belt installation.Position a new timing belt in place.
  2. Starting from the crankshaft timing belt pulley and working counterclockwise, position the timing belt in place while keeping it under tension.


  1. NOTE: Incorrect timing belt tension will cause incorrect valve timing.Pretension the timing belt.
    1. Rotate the tensioner locating tab counterclockwise and insert the locating tab into the slot in the rear timing cover.
    1. Position the hex key slot in the tensioner adjusting washer to the 4 o'clock position.
    1. Tighten the attaching bolt enough to seat the tensioner firmly against the rear timing cover, but still allow the tensioner adjusting washer to be rotated using a 6 mm (0.23 in) hex key.


  1. /pubs/auxf/%7EWS-V-B/3836/ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Tension the timing belt, working counterclockwise.Using the hex key, rotate the adjusting washer counterclockwise until the notch in the pointer is centered over the index line on the locating tab (the pointer will move clockwise during adjustment).

  1. While holding the adjusting washer in position, tighten the bolt.

  1. /pubs/auxf/%7EWS-V-B/3836/ani_caut.gif CAUTION: The camshaft must be held stationary at the hexagons with locking pliers. Do not use the alignment tool to hold the camshaft in position or damage to the camshaft may occur.Tighten the bolt on the intake camshaft sprocket.

  1. /pubs/auxf/%7EWS-V-B/3836/ani_caut.gif CAUTION: The camshaft must be held stationary at the hexagons with locking pliers. Do not use the alignment tool to hold the camshaft in position or damage to the camshaft may occur.Tighten the bolt on the exhaust camshaft sprocket in three stages.
  2. Stage 1: Tighten the bolt to 50 Nm (36 lb-ft).
  3. Stage 2: Remove the TDC peg and the camshaft alignment timing tool.
  4. Stage 3: Tighten the bolt to 115-125 Nm (85-92 lb-ft).

  1. NOTE: Install a new oil plug seal.Screw in the new oil plug on the variable camshaft timing assembly.


  1. NOTE: Turn the engine two turns in the normal direction of rotation by the crankshaft.Check the valve timing by inserting the special tools and correct the alignment as necessary.
  2. Screw in special tool 303-574 and make sure that the crankshaft is resting against the special tool.
  3. Insert special tool 303-465 into the camshafts. If necessary loosen the timing pulleys and correct the camshaft alignment.
  4. Remove the special tools.
  1. Install the stud bolt.
  1. Install the catalytic converter. For additional information, refer to Section 309-00.
  1. Install the timing belt covers. For additional information, refer to Timing Drive Components — Timing Belt Covers in this section.
  1. Install the valve cover. For additional information, refer to Valve Cover in this section.
  1. Connect the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.
  1. Install the spark plugs.

  1. NOTE: Whenever an ignition wire is reinstalled, or a new wire is installed, apply dielectric compound to the interior surface of the spark plug wire boot.Connect the ignition wires to the spark plugs.

Response From Discretesignals

That really sounds like rod knock. My little laptop speakers don't hold a candle to larger speakers.

You could pull the oil pan off and check for play in big end of the rods. While you are there you'll be able to see the flex plate, so you can check for cracks. The oil pan isn't that hard to remove. You just have to remove the catalytic converter and the bolts holding the pan on.