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2002 chrysler intrepid.... Car makes a loud whining noise. In park. Neautral reverse. Drive. Doesnt matter what gear. Aslong as im applying acceleration. Sounds like it is coming from the engine. I checked out the pulleys on the belt. Idler pulleys r shot... They wobble. I will b replacing these anyway but would this b the reason it whines??
Hey - you know you need some pulleys so check all belt driven items while there too,
I have a 2004 Chevy Malibu with a 4 cylinder engine and around 68.000 miles. I know it needs new breaks as well as an oil change which I have an appointment already to get. Lately, when I am stopped like at a stop sign or red light, it makes a weird purring type sound. Does anyone know what could cause this? It almost sounds like it wants to turn off. Also, sometimes when I am stopped and I go to hit the gas to go again, it hesitates.
Are any of your neighbors missing a cat? Sorry, just couldn't resist. When you take it in for the brakes and oil change, mention the noise to the techs. Hopefully, it'll be doing it when you are there. I can't think what'd make a 'purring' noise. Growling, yes. (that'd be my wife)
The same thing happened to me and it turned out my serpentine belt was loose. I had to take it in and get the belt, idler pulley, and tensioner replaced. Hope this helps
Hi, I have a 1990 Subaru Legacy wagon with EJ22 SOHC engine. It has been overheating, mechanic told me it was the water pump. So I had a car project weekend & here's what all I fixed: new water pump, new thermostat, new timing belt & idler pulleys, new valve cover gaskets, new oil filter & oil change, new coolant, new radiator hoses & clamps, new alternator belt. After all that work its still overheating, it starts up & temp starts to go up, but it doesn't stop at operating temp it just continues to go up & up & in about 15 minutes the temp is thru the roof (either at idle or while driving, driving seems to get it there faster). So I'm thinking clogged radiator? Any other ideas?
You could have a plugged radiator, could've put the thermostat in backwards, could have blown a head gasket or may be as simple as you haven't gotten the air bed out of the system yet. Double check your work.
I have a 99 ford explorer that started having a squeaking/chirping noise form under the hood about a month ago.
I have had it checked out by 2 different certified mechanics the first was convinced it was the serp belt and/or the idler and tension. all three have since been replace. the noise stopped completely for 1 night.
The second mechanic isn't quite sure what the noise is he pulled out a stethoscope looking object and stuck it in various parts of the engine to try to find the source of the noise. Nothing. He now recommends I come in for a $50 "in-depth" inspection.
A bit about the history of the car.
-it has been owned by my partners family since it was about 4 years old, has been very well maintained, overhauled in 2014, thermostat replaced about 3 months ago due to it failing, serp belt, idler pulley, and tension pulley all been replaced in an attempt to silence the noise.
Lastly it has been suggested that the noise may be related to the water pump, thinking it might have been damaged by the thermostat failing
I am at a loss and so is everyone I have spoken to, does anyone have any idea what might be causing this noise?
What engine does this have? Need the 8th digit of the VIN.
it is a 4.0 and x
With HT, and my $.02. DO NOT IGNORE THIS, if it is the cam synchro, if it comes apart, it can take out your engine. Also if the noise goes away, its not a good thing. Have that checked out immediately.
Ditto on the syncro, especially if you take the belt off and it is still there.
When they chirp they sound like this one:
Hey guys, I'm new here but I've been creeping around for awhile. I figured I'd finally start posting and I've got a sound diagnosis video for you.
This car is a 2000 Ford Escort, the zx2 model with the 2.0 DOHC and VCT. I just bought it (very cheaply) as a parts car... but managed to get it running again when I found all that was wrong was a timing belt idler pulley had let go. Now that I've got it running... I've got what I fear may be some Rod Knock happening.
This car is an ATX as well and I've heard that a cracked or loose flex plate can make similar sounds to bad lower ends. I've also noticed excessive carbon build up on the #1 Cyl Spark Plug.
The knock starts immediately at start-up and continues as long as the car is running. It never really goes away. It doesn't get better or worse as the car warms up, it stays pretty consistent. Also, I forgot to rev the car in the video, but the knock does follow the revs... it will knock "faster" as you rev the engine up until around the 3.5-4k mark where it gets pretty much drowned out by other engine noise.
Link to Vid:
So whatcha think? Stuck Valve? Flex Plate? Or straight up rebuild/engine swap?
Thanks in advance for any info/insight!
What you could do is rev the engine to around 2000 rpm and disable each injector one at a time. See if the noise changes pitch on any particular cylinder just to confirm it isn't a rod bearing. You can also use a mechanic's stethoscope around the valve cover to get an idea where the noise is loudest.
A stuck valve would probably cause the engine to skip. A cracked flex plate would probably change noise frequency as you put the transmission in and out of gear and it would be really loud around the bell housing area.
You need to make a video of the noise while revving the engine. The more I listen to it the more it sounds like rod noise.
I do what I can for you tomorrow. I can tell it you it doesn't get any worse (louder, more "clunky") with revs... it's just the same sound sped up to match revs.
Thanks for your input thus far... I was prepared for the worst but was hoping that maybe there was a possibility it could be something else.
quick update... just pulled wires and disabled injectors one by one... no difference in sound... taking it to my uncles now to get it up in ramps and check underneath... should have a rev vid and any info about loose tranny components when I get back.
There's the second vid with Revs. I hauled out a big screw driver and listened for noise around the engine.
Normal at Oil Pan
Normal at Lower Block
Normal at Left Valve Cover (where VCT resides)
More pronounced and "resonant" at right side Valve Cover
Constant Tick Tick Tick from Trans Bell housing...
Maybe, just maybe....
There are special tools you need too in order to put a new belt on these cars. TDC timing peg and CAM allignment tool.. They are basically a flat steel plate and a long metal peg to hold the crank.
I would make sure that is in order first befor diaging any further.
Timing Drive Components â€” Timing Belt
Crankshaft TDC Timing Peg
303-574 (T97P-6000-A) /pubs/auxf/%7EWS-V-B/1627/ST1903A.gif Camshaft Alignment Timing Tool
That really sounds like rod knock. My little laptop speakers don't hold a candle to larger speakers.
You could pull the oil pan off and check for play in big end of the rods. While you are there you'll be able to see the flex plate, so you can check for cracks. The oil pan isn't that hard to remove. You just have to remove the catalytic converter and the bolts holding the pan on.