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Centric
Qty:
$18.24
Centric Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Centric Premium Ball Joint
  • Premium Steering and Suspension
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Premium Ball Joints deliver exceptional performance and wear resistance due to a number of unique engineering advantages. Centric ball joints feature Micro-Polished Balls Studs for greater impact durability and enhance wear resistance. Low friction polymer inserts restore and improve original ride and NVH characteristics. "Best in Class" lubrication flow paths reduce wear for high concentrated loads.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Nissan Sentra Front Lower
Centric
Qty:
$11.73
Centric Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Centric Premium Ball Joint
  • Premium Steering and Suspension
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Premium Ball Joints deliver exceptional performance and wear resistance due to a number of unique engineering advantages. Centric ball joints feature Micro-Polished Balls Studs for greater impact durability and enhance wear resistance. Low friction polymer inserts restore and improve original ride and NVH characteristics. "Best in Class" lubrication flow paths reduce wear for high concentrated loads.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1990 - Nissan Sentra Front Lower
Centric
Qty:
$11.73
Centric Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Centric Premium Ball Joint
  • From 1/1/86 Japan Built
  • Premium Steering and Suspension
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • Centric Premium Ball Joints deliver exceptional performance and wear resistance due to a number of unique engineering advantages. Centric ball joints feature Micro-Polished Balls Studs for greater impact durability and enhance wear resistance. Low friction polymer inserts restore and improve original ride and NVH characteristics. "Best in Class" lubrication flow paths reduce wear for high concentrated loads.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1986 - Nissan Sentra Front Lower
Centric
1985 Nissan Sentra Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Centric - C-TEK Standard

P311-24828A3    611.42002  New

Qty:
$11.89
  • C-Tek Standard Ball Joint
  • C-TEK Standard
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • C-TEK Standard Ball Joints deliver exceptional performance and wear resistance due to a number of unique engineering advantages. Centric ball joints feature Polished Balls Studs for greater impact durability and enhance wear resistance. Polymer inserts restore and improve original ride and NVH characteristics. Lubrication flow paths reduce wear for high concentrated loads.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1985 - Nissan Sentra Front Lower
Centric
1990 Nissan Sentra Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Centric - C-TEK Standard

P311-2B84534    611.42018  New

Qty:
$8.92
Centric Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • C-Tek Standard Ball Joint
  • C-TEK Standard
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • C-TEK Standard Ball Joints deliver exceptional performance and wear resistance due to a number of unique engineering advantages. Centric ball joints feature Polished Balls Studs for greater impact durability and enhance wear resistance. Polymer inserts restore and improve original ride and NVH characteristics. Lubrication flow paths reduce wear for high concentrated loads.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1990 - Nissan Sentra Front Lower
Centric
1986 Nissan Sentra Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Centric - C-TEK Standard

P311-2B84534    611.42018  New

Qty:
$8.92
Centric Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • C-Tek Standard Ball Joint
  • From 1/1/86 Japan Built
  • C-TEK Standard
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • C-TEK Standard Ball Joints deliver exceptional performance and wear resistance due to a number of unique engineering advantages. Centric ball joints feature Polished Balls Studs for greater impact durability and enhance wear resistance. Polymer inserts restore and improve original ride and NVH characteristics. Lubrication flow paths reduce wear for high concentrated loads.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1986 - Nissan Sentra Front Lower
Centric
1986 Nissan Sentra Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Centric - C-TEK Standard

P311-24828A3    611.42002  New

Qty:
$11.89
  • C-Tek Standard Ball Joint
  • To 4/1/86
  • C-TEK Standard
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm
  • C-TEK Standard Ball Joints deliver exceptional performance and wear resistance due to a number of unique engineering advantages. Centric ball joints feature Polished Balls Studs for greater impact durability and enhance wear resistance. Polymer inserts restore and improve original ride and NVH characteristics. Lubrication flow paths reduce wear for high concentrated loads.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Centric
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1986 - Nissan Sentra Front Lower
Mevotech
1999 Nissan Sentra Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Mevotech

P311-1E5C8E9    MK9449  New

5450052Y10 , JBJ181 , 5450052Y70 , BJ69285 , 610.42006 , K9449 , IK9449 , 45D2194 , TC1858 , XK9449 , BJ69285XL , MK9449 , B9449 , 46D2194A , TK9449 , FA2082

Qty:
$20.31
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Mounting Type: Press In
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Nissan Sentra Front Lower
Mevotech
1990 Nissan Sentra Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Mevotech

P311-5112BD8    MK9633  New

610.42018 , 45D2165 , K9633 , IK9633 , MK9633 , TK9633 , 36-16 010 0006 , XK9633 , 101-4126 , FA1782 , 5450050A00 , TC435 , JBJ182 , B9633

Qty:
$13.78
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Mounting Type: Press In
    • Stud Type: Threaded
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1990 - Nissan Sentra Front Lower
Mevotech
1986 Nissan Sentra Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Mevotech

P311-3B2D751    MK9153  New

251002 , B9153 , 5051097 , 610.42002 , FA1472 , IK9153 , 2601262 , 5051097B , 67263 , 101-3625 , 4016001A25 , TK9153 , FA1472GL , JBJ178 , 45D2097 , 1010717 , K9153 , 10420

Qty:
$12.82
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Mounting Type: Bolt In
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1986 - Nissan Sentra Front Lower
Mevotech
1992 Nissan Sentra Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Mevotech

P311-1E5C8E9    MK9449  New

5450052Y10 , JBJ181 , 5450052Y70 , BJ69285 , 610.42006 , K9449 , IK9449 , 45D2194 , TC1858 , XK9449 , BJ69285XL , MK9449 , B9449 , 46D2194A , TK9449 , FA2082

Qty:
$20.31
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Except Manufactured In Canada
  • Product Attributes:
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Mounting Type: Press In
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1992 - Nissan Sentra Front Lower
Mevotech
2006 Nissan Sentra Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Mevotech

P311-3167DB4    MK90434  New

2601581 , FA2216 , TK90434 , 5051312 , IK90434 , K90434 , JBJ938 , XK90434 , MK90434 , 5051312B , 5651303 , 545005M000 , 104322 , 54500F4600 , B90434

Qty:
$22.59
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bearing Type: Sintered Metal
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Mounting Type: Press In
    • Stud Type: Threaded
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2006 - Nissan Sentra Front Lower
Mevotech
1999 Nissan Sentra Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Mevotech

P311-02875A2    GK9449  New

Qty:
$11.43
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Finish: Paint
    • Mounting Type: Press In
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Nissan Sentra Front Lower
Moog
2003 Nissan Sentra Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower 4 Cyl 2.5L Moog

P311-4FE6680    K90434  New

MK90434 , 260-1581 , 45D2312 , 54500F4600 , 539-088 , 545014Z011 , FA2216 , 401604M400 , 505-1312 , B90434 , 545005M000 , 610.42013 , 104322

Qty:
$23.87
  • Ball Joint
  • QuickSteerâ„¢ chassis parts are designed and tested to restore steering and handling to their original performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Moog
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Nissan Sentra Limited Edition Front Lower L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488
Moog
1999 Nissan Sentra Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Moog

P311-32D3911    K9449  New

610.42006 , 104196 , FA2082 , 4016050Y02 , 101-4237 , 4016060Y00 , 5450152Y60 , MS3062 , 531-435 , 54501-4B000 , 4016069Y00 , 02-51020 , 4016052Y00 , BJ69285 , B9449 , MK9449 , MS3061 , MS3056 , 54500-52Y10 , 54500-4B000 , MS3055 , 505-1194 , 45D2194 , 54501-52Y10 , 40160-50Y00 , 260-1425 , 101-4236

Qty:
$29.78
  • Ball Joint
  • QuickSteerâ„¢ chassis parts are designed and tested to restore steering and handling to their original performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Moog
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Nissan Sentra Front Lower
Moog
1990 Nissan Sentra Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Moog

P311-2B1EE70    K9633  New

801-10740 , 54500-86M00 , 545002B010 , 505-1165 , 45D2165 , 260-1357 , 31447 , 5450150A00 , MS3053 , 101-4126 , 801-10739 , 40160-50A00 , 610.42018 , 5450050A00 , 801-31111 , 545012B000 , 104145 , 54500-2B025 , B9633 , FA1782 , 02-51000 , 545012B010 , MS3054 , FA1539 , 54501-86M00 , MK9633 , 536-968

Qty:
$18.36
  • Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Maximum Outside Diameter: 1.770
  • QuickSteerâ„¢ chassis parts are designed and tested to restore steering and handling to their original performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Moog
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1990 - Nissan Sentra Front Lower
TRW
1999 Nissan Sentra Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-214EF4E    W0133-1971302  New

Qty:
$92.89
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • 3/36 Warranty
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Nissan Sentra
Sankei 555
1988 Nissan Sentra Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-4219785    W0133-1630786  New

Qty:
$45.83
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Lower
Brand: Sankei 555
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - Nissan Sentra
Sankei 555
1987 Nissan Sentra Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-4219785    W0133-1630786  New

Qty:
$45.83
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/01/1986-
  • Lower
Brand: Sankei 555
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1987 - Nissan Sentra Fr:01-01-86
Sankei 555
1990 Nissan Sentra Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-4219785    W0133-1630786  New

Qty:
$45.83
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -07/31/1990
  • Lower
Brand: Sankei 555
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1990 - Nissan Sentra To:07-31-90

Latest Nissan Sentra Repair and Ball Joint Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

knocking sound when i turn the wheel

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From lizyp042004 on knocking sound when i turn the wheel

I have a 1987 nissan sentra and starting today every time I turn the wheel I hear a knocking or clanking sound. It sounded like it was the passenger side front wheel but then when I gave it gas on one turn I could feel the knock while I had my foot on the gas and it felt like it was in the middle of the car. Anybody ever had this problem? Help please.

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

Checking the cv joints is a good place to start. Also, while you're under there and the vehicle is an 87, make sure you check the lower ball joints, stabilizer bushings, and strut mounts. These can all give you creaks on turns. Body mounts on this vehicle I believe was a problem also.

Steve

Response From Sidom

Sounds like you may have a bad CV joint on your axle. Look underneath the car and see if the boot on the outer joint is torn.

is this a bad wheel bearing?

Showing 3 out of 13 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From dmac0923 on is this a bad wheel bearing?

2002 nissan sentra SE-R Spec V 67,000 miles

im starting to think i need wheel bearings. for some time now ive been hearing a rolling noise when coming to a stop. for a while i sucked it up to road/tire noise due to the low profile tires.

recently i can hear a metal to metal scrapping noise coming from my front passenger wheel while driving and turning to the right only. braking or not doesnt make a difference in the sound.

turning to the left is quiet.
brakes are relatively new and look in good shape,
tires have nice even tread wear.
tire pressure is good.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Double check the brake - even take it apart to look for marks of it rubbing with some hardware or something. Metal to metal scraping noise is possible with brake or bearing but more likely brake. With brake retracted you should be able to feel something with the bearing when hoisted off ground. Noise is usually on the side you think it's coming from. Sometimes a bearing goan/growl when turning can be the opposite side from what you would think while driving it so check and compare both sides.

IMO - a bearing failure on one side does NOT mean both are bad or need replacing,

T

Response From dmac0923

to be honest, it sorta sounds like a brake noise. almost like the splash shield was rubbing the rotor. i didnt disassemble the brake, but i visually inspected the pads and the splash shield was fine. the thing that was weird was that braking is quiet and cruising straight ahead or turning left is quiet as well.

now if i jack up the car to wiggle the wheel to check for play. wouldnt new tight ball joints mask any slack in the bearing?

guide me if im wrong her but front end check involves

tie rod ends- with car on ground, lightly wiggle steering wheel and watch TRE for movement

ball joints/bearings- car suspended in air, grab wheel at 12 and 6 and push pull. have partner watch for movement.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Not sure of the layout of this front end. Probably uses a bearing hub instead of "inner-outer" bearings so it's one bearing and no freeplay is allowed. Bad bearings frequently don't show up as freeplay but sure can on their last legs!

Checking front end parts is like you said for the most part. Supporting wheel by lower control arms in most set ups reveals the lower ball joint's condition. You need to look for where forces are as if under a force freeplay won't be noted. TREs are eyeballed for motion. Nothing for freeplay is really allowed if found.

If you dismantle brake you may see the metal to metal shiny spot(s) where something is wrong. A tiny spot can make quite a ruckus. Even if new or good looking check the hardware, pads, anti-rattle stuff and the like for anything out of order,

T

Response From dmac0923

yea i believe the bearing is the entire hub assembly. ill try double checking the suspension and disassembling the brakes my next days off.

Response From dmac0923

just an update,

i pulled the wheel and brakes apart on the suspected wheel today and found that one of the caliper anchor slide pins was completely seized into the caliper mounting bracket thus cocking the caliper assembly.

what i think was happening was that since the caliper was cockeyed the metal brake pad slides were shifted agaings the rotor making the noise.

i was unable to remove the anchor pin from the bracket so once i get the parts and rebuild ill post another update

Response From Tom Greenleaf

dmac - They should have complete calipers with the bracket for this. If you destroy the old bracket you'll pay a "core" charge for that so try to just take the whole mess off as a unit and consider BOTH sides.

When these type slides used in many applications get water/dirt past the seals they really do get as stuck as welded sometimes. Put it on your periodic maint list to just pull calipers and lube them up with real brake grease (usually a silicone) which is remarkably water resistant.

Note for readers: This is a common problem a few months AFTER a vehicle is driven thru deeper water than prudent which IMO is no higher than just below the center of the hub no matter what type vehicle it is. It can happen anyway but note that they call seals around vehicles "DUST" seals as most aren't WATERPROOF as folks think,

T

Response From dmac0923

Tom like you said, they only sold it as the whole caliper assembly.

so that said i replaced the whole caliper assembly on the suspected side. bled the brakes...and went for a spin.........you guessed it.....

THE NOISE IS STILL THERE!!!

i cant really be angry since the caliper assembly needed to be replaced anyways. but i have to admit a few curse words did escape when i heard the noise again.

any ideas?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Seems like that caliper had to go anyway as you said. It may still have a bearing problem at that wheel or the other side?? You saw the brake wear - bearing may or may not show play or a funny feeling without a load on it till it's wicked bad.

Is it the exact same noise? New pads on old rotor might contact in slightly different spot and make a feel more than noise but possible. If it has an outer rust ring they cause issues with pad only replacements.

Do remember one side can make noise and sound exactly like it's from the other side and fool you. Anything else there that can rub? Dust shield - bad anti-rattle stuff?

T

Response From dmac0923

yea its the exact same noise as before.


the caliper assembly didnt come with pads just the hardware. so they are the same pads/rotor as before. the pads are still like new and there is only a very minor rust ring on the rotor. the brakes were done not too long ago.

i cant replicate the noise with the car jacked up and spinning the wheel by hand. it seems to only do it when its loaded on the ground.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Back to first post "noise turning right - braking or not" so now that brake is not the issue that still leaves bearing(s) and may be that side or not. Just spinning them may not show up the problem and may need the weight of vehicle on it to make that noise.

The wear on the pads while caliper was known frozen does still concern me even if newer but I wouldn't expect the exact same noise with that fixed?? Bearing in question. May show filing dust inside or not??

T

Response From dmac0923

yea i dont even know why i didnt take the drivers side wheel off to take a look. i guess because i was so set on it being the pass side. ill pop the wheel off the other side and see.

the wear on the pad is minimal otherwise i would have done a brake job just enough to put the pieces of the puzzle together. pad still had an even matting surface to the rotor.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes - certainly check and also lube up other side so it doesn't happen there with the pin also - later - it's preventable.

The bearing check. Try to just nudge brake pads such that they aren't touching at all and with wheel back on turn/spin them with just the speed you can hang on torqueing them and try to feel any flaw. They should be glassy, silent smooth - no exceptions and without some load may not show. Got one coming in a couple hours right here that won't express itself well sitting still but does driving. Usually when off and in hand you can feel something. Of course when they are really trashed there's no doubt.

The pads may have had a slight bevel and when cocked and working put a sharp leading edge (?) on the pad which could pull a "finger nail on chaukboard" type sound now which I would think would go away. Turning rotors or replacing them takes all that out of course and I know you aren't doing all that for this job.

I don't know what the anti-rattle hardware looks like without seeing it myself but look to see if it's all in proper postion and not touching also. Also make sure the wear sensor if used is in proper position. I've seen them bent and touch when not worn pads!

Good luck,

T

interpreting tire wear

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From dmac0923 on interpreting tire wear

2002 nissan sentra 2.5lt 4cyl
85,000 miles

looking at my tires yesterday. all four are pretty much down the wear bars. the fronts are more worn then the rears. i noticed looking more closely at the front tires that the inboard half/sholder of the tire is showing more wear then the outer halves. to break it down even more so the front passenger side inner half is more severely worn then the drivers side.

i didnt note the actual mileage when these tires were installed but i would guestimate at approximately 20-25 thousand miles on them. i know its low but they are a sticky summer performance tire and i cant expect much mileage from them.
ball joints/controll arms replaced at 45,000 miles
tie rod ends replaced at 70,000
struts are original.

car doesnt drift, stays straight on in lane. wheel is perfectly centered.

i just want to tackle any repairs before throwing new tires on and experience accelerated wear

Response From Hammer Time

That's most likely alignment wear but you would have to check for worn parts before attempting to align it. It may have some negative camber but most likely it is toe'd out too much. As far as one tire worm more than the other, you can usually attribute that to one have more air than the other so one does more scrubbing and the other has more grip.

Response From dmac0923

Yea while I had it up in the air I checked the lower ball joints/wheel bearings and everything is good n tight.
I tried to match up the wear pattern on a google search and it seems to kinda match the camber like u said.
I've been starting to question how much life I have in the original stuts. And was wondering if maybe I have a bad upper strut bearing cause to excessive camber.

And as I'm writing this reply I'm recalling that I have a slight knocking noise on the front passenger side with the bad tire. I was thinking it was a halfshaft going or maybe that upper mount.

Not sure how to really check/test either tho

Response From Hammer Time

It's possible but not real likely. It is far more likely to be a toe in problem rather than camber. Camber is a very slow wearing process but toe has a scrubbing action that wears the tire much faster. It's highly likely if the car has been driven over numerous speed bumps. They tend to spread the front tires.

Response From dmac0923 Top Rated Answer

ok no biggy.

its common practice for me to take the car to a quality alignment shop whenever i put new rubber on.

do you have any suggestions as to test the struts & upper bearing mounts? beside the push down on the bumper method?


also if ya could hear me out on this noise coming from the front passenger suspension

there is a slight knock when taking off in 1st and sometimes 2nd gear depending on the torque load of the engine at the time.

the best way to describe it is that it sounds like as the car's suspension flexes up with the torque of driving from a stop, it sounds like a suspension part is rocking with it and banging.

other then that theres not a rattle, clunk or squeak coming from the suspension. only the little knock on take off from the one side.


naturally my attention is drawn to the strut assembly since thats the only original, oldest part left in the front suspension. i tried to get some movement out of the strut with the load off the suspension but cant seem to get anything.


i thought the old rule of thumb was about 75,000 miles for struts? is that still valid?

Response From Hammer Time

Sidom has covered things pretty well here. You can check a few more things on the strut if you check it with the suspension hanging. You will be able to check the ball joint and upper plate a little easier. As far as your noise is concerned, it could be the spring moving in the saddle, the upper strut mounts, strut rod bushings, motor mounts, etc. It just needs to be inspected real closely.

The one thing I might disagree with is the idea of buying the packaged alignments. They are done for one reason and one reason only, to get you back on their lift more frequently and sell you something. The bigger problem with this system is that since there is no money coming in for the so called alignments, they can't give them to the quality techs. they end up letting the low end guys do it which means most of them do not know what they are doing and have been taught how to set toe and that's it. Lots of shops are doing alignments but very few are actually doing alignments if you know what I mean. A good alignment tech will be very helpful in finding the cause of your tire wear.

Response From Sidom

A couple of real critical areas are rotating & pressure checks..... It's a must to rotate every 5k and keep the pressure up...

With struts it best just to drive the car and see how it handles & goes into & returning from corners... With alignments ride height is pretty important as well......Monroe has some strut assemblies that come with new springs, mounts & bearings..... More spendy but they do get you back to specs..... 75 k is not a bad time to think about it. You've got a strut with valves & seals & other moving parts and they do get worn over time and by the time you see the evidence on the tires, its too late for that set of tires.

Another thing some people aren't aware of is side impact.......They do good missing potholes & such in the road but will bump curb without thinking twiece about it..... Frt suspensions are designed to absorb (to a certain degree) frt impact, it's just a way of life and having a suspension that wouldn't hold an alignment wouldn't go well for a manufacter over time...... But they aren't designed to take side or rear impact so slightly hitting a curb or hitting a parking block with the rear wheels while backing into a parking stall is actually worse on the alignment than hitting a pothole going forward.

It sounds like you may have a negative camber problem from what you described. Camber will usually wear smooth & toe wear will feather, you can feel toe wear pretty easily with your hand, rub one way & it feels smooth, go back other way & you can feel the rubber grabbing your hand.... Toe is the most critical setting. Toe being out of specs can shred a tire in no time......

Some shops offer package prices on alignments.....Either so many or for so long for a certain price..... It always sounds high but most if you use it 3 or 4 times pays for itself.........The thing is, that shop can do the best alignment it the world and the next day if you hit a huge pothole going to fast or hit a curb, that alignment is out the window, like they never did anything to it at all.....


How's the new place coming along???? Got your garage setup how you want it yet??

Power Steering Problem?

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Question From Streetcleaner on Power Steering Problem?

2001 Nissan Sentra GXE, 1.8 liter

I have a problem with my power steering… There is a slight whining sound coming from the pump and the sounds gets louder the further the wheels are turned to either side. Also, when driving the car the steering feels slightly stiff and awkward, plus the steering wheel doesn’t return to center after making a turn. The belt is tight, and there are no leaks, the fluid level has not lowered any since I last checked and marked it during my last oil change in December, there are no puddles under the car either… Just wondering if anyone can assure me that it’s the pump that needs to be replaced, or if the problem could be in the rack… any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated, Thanks.

Response From zmame Top Rated Answer

Check the condition of your P/S fluid. Get a clean glass cup take a some p/s fluid put it in the cup see if there are metal filing, dark, dis-colored, separation(after sitting) or water contamination(milky color).

If your fluid has any of the conditions above have it flushed and take it to get a P/S pressure test done on the pump to confirm it is a weak pump.

As for your wheel not going back to center it may be related or it may also be suspension related such as seized strut mount, tie rod end, ball joints, steering joints and yes it may even be in the rack.