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The Following brands are available based on your search.

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    Centric
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    Karlyn
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Best Selling Genuine Nissan Ball Joints

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We stock Ball Joint parts for most Nissan models, including 300ZX, 350Z, Altima, Armada, D21, Frontier, Leaf, Maxima, Murano, Pathfinder, Pickup, Quest, Rogue, Sentra, Titan, Versa, Xterra.

Moog
2012 Nissan Titan Suspension Ball Joint - Front Upper Moog

P311-1D1ACF8    K80994  New

Qty:
$42.07
Moog Suspension Ball Joint  Front Upper
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1: Problem Solver Powdered Metal Gusher Bearing Design Enables Grease To Flow Through The Bearing To The Stud For Reduced Friction And Enhanced Strength And Stability.
    • Feature 2: Problem Solver Patented Cover Plate Design Allows For Tighter Tolerances Vs Traditional Cover Plate Designs, Providing A More Durable And Extended Life Part.
    • Feature 3: Full Ball Metal Stud Provides 360 Degrees Of Smooth, Consistent, Rotational Movement Resulting In More Responsive Steering.
    • Feature 4: Belleville Washer Preload Provides Lower Torque And Stud Articulation With Minimal Axial Clearance.
    • Feature 5: An Enlarged Ball Joint Receptacle In The Control Arm Can Cause A Loose Ball Joint Fit. Moog Problem Solver Design Includes An Oversized Housing For A More Secure Fit.
    • Feature 6: Greaseable Socket Design Allows New Lubricant To Flush Contaminants From The Assembly, Reducing Corrosion And Wear.
    • Greasable: Yes
    • Mount Type: Press-in Type
  • MOOG Problem Solver products incorporate proven design and engineering features for like new steering, ease of installation and longer life. MOOG is the preferred steering and suspension brand of professional technicians and NASCAR Crew Chiefs.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Moog
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2012 - Nissan Titan Front Upper
CTR
1996 Nissan Maxima Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-45D64AE    W0133-1888780  New

Qty:
$32.43
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: CTR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Nissan Maxima
CTR
1999 Nissan Maxima Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-45D64AE    W0133-1888780  New

Qty:
$32.43
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
  • Production: -03/1999
Brand: CTR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Nissan Maxima
CTR
1995 Nissan Maxima Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-45D64AE    W0133-1888780  New

Qty:
$32.43
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
  • Production: 02/01/1994-
Brand: CTR
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Nissan Maxima
Sankei 555
1989 Nissan Pathfinder Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-5472EDE    W0133-1838774  New

Qty:
$61.54
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 11/1988-08/1989
Brand: Sankei 555
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Nissan Pathfinder
TRW
1989 Nissan Pathfinder Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-1C82B04    W0133-1838774  New

Qty:
$66.37
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Production: 11/1988-08/1989
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Nissan Pathfinder
Sankei 555
1990 Nissan Pathfinder Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-5472EDE    W0133-1838774  New

Qty:
$61.54
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 09/1989-
Brand: Sankei 555
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Nissan Pathfinder
TRW
1990 Nissan Pathfinder Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-1C82B04    W0133-1838774  New

Qty:
$66.37
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Production: 09/1989-
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Nissan Pathfinder
Sankei 555
1991 Nissan Pathfinder Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-5472EDE    W0133-1838774  New

Qty:
$61.54
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Sankei 555
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Nissan Pathfinder
TRW
1991 Nissan Pathfinder Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-1C82B04    W0133-1838774  New

Qty:
$66.37
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Nissan Pathfinder
Sankei 555
1987 Nissan Pathfinder Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-5472EDE    W0133-1838774  New

Qty:
$61.54
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/1986-
Brand: Sankei 555
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Nissan Pathfinder
TRW
1987 Nissan Pathfinder Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-1C82B04    W0133-1838774  New

Qty:
$66.37
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Production: 07/1986-
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Nissan Pathfinder
Sankei 555
1986 Nissan D21 Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-5472EDE    W0133-1838774  New

Qty:
$61.54
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 11/1985-
Brand: Sankei 555
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Nissan D21
TRW
1986 Nissan D21 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-1C82B04    W0133-1838774  New

Qty:
$66.37
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Production: 11/1985-
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Nissan D21
Sankei 555
1989 Nissan D21 Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-5472EDE    W0133-1838774  New

Qty:
$61.54
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -08/1989
Brand: Sankei 555
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Nissan D21
TRW
1989 Nissan D21 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-1C82B04    W0133-1838774  New

Qty:
$66.37
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Production: -08/1989
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Nissan D21
Sankei 555
1981 Nissan 720 Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-5472EDE    W0133-1838774  New

Qty:
$61.54
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 03/1981-
Brand: Sankei 555
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1981 - Nissan 720
TRW
1981 Nissan 720 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-1C82B04    W0133-1838774  New

Qty:
$66.37
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Production: 03/1981-
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1981 - Nissan 720
Sankei 555
1983 Nissan 720 Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-5472EDE    W0133-1838774  New

Qty:
$61.54
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -12/1982
Brand: Sankei 555
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1983 - Nissan 720
TRW
1983 Nissan 720 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-1C82B04    W0133-1838774  New

Qty:
$66.37
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Production: -12/1982
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1983 - Nissan 720

Latest Nissan Repair and Ball Joint Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1997 Nissan 200SX sec 2.0 can't remove dr side cv axle

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From mrc55 on 1997 Nissan 200SX sec 2.0 can't remove dr side cv axle

1997 Nissan 200 SX sec, 99,000 miles
needs axle replacement and I am not able to get the drivers side axle out. The passenger side slid right out, but the driver's side to stuck. Any ideas? Downloaded a manual but the drive train/suspension chapter won't open on my computer.
Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

It is locked in and has to be pried out with a very large pry bar.

Response From mrc55 Top Rated Answer

Thank you! That worked. Now we are working on the lower ball joint. Top clip is off but ball joint not moving. Any ideas about how to get this out?

Response From Hammer Time

That may not come apart easily. Can't you remove the top bolts on the strut instead?

Response From mrc55

It is only connected to the lower control arm.

Response From Hammer Time

No, the top of the knuckle is bolted to the strut.


Response From mrc55

Thank you!! We got it! Here's hoping the installation is easier :)

Response From Hammer Time

Make sure it's fully seated and locked into the trans.

Response From mrc55

I was afraid you might say something like that :) Ok, thanks!!

Making a Right Turn

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on Making a Right Turn

1998 Nissan Altima - Making a right turn is difficult and it also make a noise - Struggle when making the right turn

Response From dmac0923 Top Rated Answer

bad/binding CV joint on the half axle.

bad ball joints.

bad tie rod ends.

possibly something is bent on the suspension from a hard pot hole hit or something

2006 NISSAN MURANO power steering noise.

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From maxauto on 2006 NISSAN MURANO power steering noise.

2006 NISSAN MURANO AWD 3.5 125000km.

Power steering noise on turns. Happens when steering left or right. Strut mounts, struts, ball joint and tie rod were checked and seem fine. U-joints between the steering column and the rack are OK.

Power steering pump and ruck/pinion were changed with ABSOLUTELY NO RESULT.


What could be the reason?

Any help greatly appreciated!
Thank you.

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

To give an accurate answer I would have to hear the noise...

One suggestion would be to check all the idler pulleys & other accessories.

Using the p/s puts enough of a strain on the system that bearing going bad in other areas can actually get louder....

knocking sound when i turn the wheel

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From lizyp042004 on knocking sound when i turn the wheel

I have a 1987 nissan sentra and starting today every time I turn the wheel I hear a knocking or clanking sound. It sounded like it was the passenger side front wheel but then when I gave it gas on one turn I could feel the knock while I had my foot on the gas and it felt like it was in the middle of the car. Anybody ever had this problem? Help please.

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

Checking the cv joints is a good place to start. Also, while you're under there and the vehicle is an 87, make sure you check the lower ball joints, stabilizer bushings, and strut mounts. These can all give you creaks on turns. Body mounts on this vehicle I believe was a problem also.

Steve

Response From Sidom

Sounds like you may have a bad CV joint on your axle. Look underneath the car and see if the boot on the outer joint is torn.

is this a bad wheel bearing?

Showing 3 out of 13 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From dmac0923 on is this a bad wheel bearing?

2002 nissan sentra SE-R Spec V 67,000 miles

im starting to think i need wheel bearings. for some time now ive been hearing a rolling noise when coming to a stop. for a while i sucked it up to road/tire noise due to the low profile tires.

recently i can hear a metal to metal scrapping noise coming from my front passenger wheel while driving and turning to the right only. braking or not doesnt make a difference in the sound.

turning to the left is quiet.
brakes are relatively new and look in good shape,
tires have nice even tread wear.
tire pressure is good.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Double check the brake - even take it apart to look for marks of it rubbing with some hardware or something. Metal to metal scraping noise is possible with brake or bearing but more likely brake. With brake retracted you should be able to feel something with the bearing when hoisted off ground. Noise is usually on the side you think it's coming from. Sometimes a bearing goan/growl when turning can be the opposite side from what you would think while driving it so check and compare both sides.

IMO - a bearing failure on one side does NOT mean both are bad or need replacing,

T

Response From dmac0923

to be honest, it sorta sounds like a brake noise. almost like the splash shield was rubbing the rotor. i didnt disassemble the brake, but i visually inspected the pads and the splash shield was fine. the thing that was weird was that braking is quiet and cruising straight ahead or turning left is quiet as well.

now if i jack up the car to wiggle the wheel to check for play. wouldnt new tight ball joints mask any slack in the bearing?

guide me if im wrong her but front end check involves

tie rod ends- with car on ground, lightly wiggle steering wheel and watch TRE for movement

ball joints/bearings- car suspended in air, grab wheel at 12 and 6 and push pull. have partner watch for movement.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Not sure of the layout of this front end. Probably uses a bearing hub instead of "inner-outer" bearings so it's one bearing and no freeplay is allowed. Bad bearings frequently don't show up as freeplay but sure can on their last legs!

Checking front end parts is like you said for the most part. Supporting wheel by lower control arms in most set ups reveals the lower ball joint's condition. You need to look for where forces are as if under a force freeplay won't be noted. TREs are eyeballed for motion. Nothing for freeplay is really allowed if found.

If you dismantle brake you may see the metal to metal shiny spot(s) where something is wrong. A tiny spot can make quite a ruckus. Even if new or good looking check the hardware, pads, anti-rattle stuff and the like for anything out of order,

T

Response From dmac0923

yea i believe the bearing is the entire hub assembly. ill try double checking the suspension and disassembling the brakes my next days off.

Response From dmac0923

just an update,

i pulled the wheel and brakes apart on the suspected wheel today and found that one of the caliper anchor slide pins was completely seized into the caliper mounting bracket thus cocking the caliper assembly.

what i think was happening was that since the caliper was cockeyed the metal brake pad slides were shifted agaings the rotor making the noise.

i was unable to remove the anchor pin from the bracket so once i get the parts and rebuild ill post another update

Response From Tom Greenleaf

dmac - They should have complete calipers with the bracket for this. If you destroy the old bracket you'll pay a "core" charge for that so try to just take the whole mess off as a unit and consider BOTH sides.

When these type slides used in many applications get water/dirt past the seals they really do get as stuck as welded sometimes. Put it on your periodic maint list to just pull calipers and lube them up with real brake grease (usually a silicone) which is remarkably water resistant.

Note for readers: This is a common problem a few months AFTER a vehicle is driven thru deeper water than prudent which IMO is no higher than just below the center of the hub no matter what type vehicle it is. It can happen anyway but note that they call seals around vehicles "DUST" seals as most aren't WATERPROOF as folks think,

T

Response From dmac0923

Tom like you said, they only sold it as the whole caliper assembly.

so that said i replaced the whole caliper assembly on the suspected side. bled the brakes...and went for a spin.........you guessed it.....

THE NOISE IS STILL THERE!!!

i cant really be angry since the caliper assembly needed to be replaced anyways. but i have to admit a few curse words did escape when i heard the noise again.

any ideas?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Seems like that caliper had to go anyway as you said. It may still have a bearing problem at that wheel or the other side?? You saw the brake wear - bearing may or may not show play or a funny feeling without a load on it till it's wicked bad.

Is it the exact same noise? New pads on old rotor might contact in slightly different spot and make a feel more than noise but possible. If it has an outer rust ring they cause issues with pad only replacements.

Do remember one side can make noise and sound exactly like it's from the other side and fool you. Anything else there that can rub? Dust shield - bad anti-rattle stuff?

T

Response From dmac0923

yea its the exact same noise as before.


the caliper assembly didnt come with pads just the hardware. so they are the same pads/rotor as before. the pads are still like new and there is only a very minor rust ring on the rotor. the brakes were done not too long ago.

i cant replicate the noise with the car jacked up and spinning the wheel by hand. it seems to only do it when its loaded on the ground.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Back to first post "noise turning right - braking or not" so now that brake is not the issue that still leaves bearing(s) and may be that side or not. Just spinning them may not show up the problem and may need the weight of vehicle on it to make that noise.

The wear on the pads while caliper was known frozen does still concern me even if newer but I wouldn't expect the exact same noise with that fixed?? Bearing in question. May show filing dust inside or not??

T

Response From dmac0923

yea i dont even know why i didnt take the drivers side wheel off to take a look. i guess because i was so set on it being the pass side. ill pop the wheel off the other side and see.

the wear on the pad is minimal otherwise i would have done a brake job just enough to put the pieces of the puzzle together. pad still had an even matting surface to the rotor.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes - certainly check and also lube up other side so it doesn't happen there with the pin also - later - it's preventable.

The bearing check. Try to just nudge brake pads such that they aren't touching at all and with wheel back on turn/spin them with just the speed you can hang on torqueing them and try to feel any flaw. They should be glassy, silent smooth - no exceptions and without some load may not show. Got one coming in a couple hours right here that won't express itself well sitting still but does driving. Usually when off and in hand you can feel something. Of course when they are really trashed there's no doubt.

The pads may have had a slight bevel and when cocked and working put a sharp leading edge (?) on the pad which could pull a "finger nail on chaukboard" type sound now which I would think would go away. Turning rotors or replacing them takes all that out of course and I know you aren't doing all that for this job.

I don't know what the anti-rattle hardware looks like without seeing it myself but look to see if it's all in proper postion and not touching also. Also make sure the wear sensor if used is in proper position. I've seen them bent and touch when not worn pads!

Good luck,

T