802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Ball Joint

Choose a Year for your Mazda 's Ball Joint

  • 2014
  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2011
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1987
  • 1986
  • 1985
  • 1984
  • 1983
  • 1982
  • 1981
  • 1980
  • 1979
  • 1978
  • 1977
  • 1976
  • 1975
  • 1974
  • 1972
Show More Years

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Beck Arnley
    Beck Arnley
  • CTR
    CTR
  • Centric
    Centric
  • Delphi
    Delphi
  • Dorman
    Dorman
  • First Equipment Quality
    First Equipment Quality
  • Lemfoerder
    Lemfoerder
  • Mevotech
    Mevotech
  • Moog
    Moog
  • Sankei 555
    Sankei 555
  • TRW
    TRW
  • Vaico
    Vaico

Best Selling Genuine Mazda Ball Joints

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including CTR, TRW, Sankei 555, First Equipment Quality, Mevotech, Moog
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Mazda Replacement Ball Joint Parts

We stock Ball Joint parts for most Mazda models, including B2200, B2300, B2600, B3000, CX7, CX9, MPV, MX6, Miata, Millenia, Protege, RX7, Tribute, 3, 5, 6, 626.

CTR
2005 Mazda Miata Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-46D4459    W0133-1755245  New

Qty:
$46.30
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
  • Lower - Front
Brand: CTR
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Mazda Miata
TRW
1992 Mazda Navajo Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-5A5F302    W0133-1761021  New

Qty:
$66.42
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • Front - Lower
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
1992 - Mazda Navajo 4WD
Sankei 555
2007 Mazda 3 Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-337F177    W0133-1814131  New

Qty:
$26.15
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Ball Joint and Snap Ring - FYI: Mazda markets complete Control Arm only. - 18mm
Brand: Sankei 555
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2007 - Mazda 3 i
First Equipment Quality
1993 Mazda MX-3 Suspension Ball Joint 4 Cyl 1.6L First Equipment Quality

P311-346B413    W0133-1755472  New

Qty:
$32.96
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Chas: 227697-
  • Lower - Front
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Chassis Range
1993 - Mazda MX-3 L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1597 227697 and up
First Equipment Quality
1995 Mazda MX-3 Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-346B413    W0133-1755472  New

Qty:
$32.96
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1995 - Mazda MX-3 Base
First Equipment Quality
1994 Mazda Protege Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-346B413    W0133-1755472  New

Qty:
$32.96
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Chas: 630912-
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Chassis Range
1994 - Mazda Protege 630912 and up
Mevotech
2011 Mazda Tribute Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Mevotech

P311-464BC30    MK80107  New

BJ65005 , TK80107 , FA2195 , JBJ864 , EC0134350J , BJ65235 , 5051293 , 2L8Z3079AA , K80107 , XK80107 , 104331 , 2601555 , 2L8Z3078AA , 45D2293 , EC0134300J , IK80107 , MK80107

Qty:
$28.71
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bearing Type: Sintered Metal
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Over-built With Sintered Metal-to-metal Technology For Added Endurance And Durability.
    • Features & Benefits 2: Sae Grease Fitting Is Included For Serviceability.
    • Features & Benefits 3: Added Knurling Provides A Tighter Grip Between The Control Arm/knuckle And Ball Joint Housing To Compensate For Any Distortion Or Corrosion.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Mounting Type: Press In
    • Product Feature: Corrosion Resistant Surface Treatment Prevents The Build Up Of Rust For Longer Service Life.
    • Product Feature 2: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Stud Type: Grooved
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2011 - Mazda Tribute Front Lower
Mevotech
2007 Mazda B3000 Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Mevotech

P311-4A69CAF    MK8695T  New

101-5771 , K8695T , MCSOE1 , FA2100 , TK8695T , JBJ7026 , ZZP034550C , 45D2281 , BJ86375 , B8695 , MK8695T , FA2180E , BJ86375XL , XK8695 , 7L5Z3050A , K8695 , K80013 , K80771 , MCF2233 , YL2Z3050AA , 46D2281A , 2L3Z3050AA , FA2180 , BL5Z3050A , 45D2221 , BJ86345 , F57Z3050BB , BJ85345 , TK80771 , FA2100XL , IK80771 , IK8695T

Qty:
$25.85
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bearing Type: Sintered Metal
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Over-built With Sintered Metal-to-metal Technology For Added Endurance And Durability.
    • Features & Benefits 2: Sae Grease Fitting Is Included For Serviceability.
    • Features & Benefits 3: Added Knurling Provides A Tighter Grip Between The Control Arm/knuckle And Ball Joint Housing To Compensate For Any Distortion Or Corrosion.
    • Features & Benefits 4: Circlip Included, Provides Supplementary Retention To The Ball Joint Housing, Securing It In Place.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Mounting Type: Press In
    • Product Feature: Corrosion Resistant Surface Treatment Prevents The Build Up Of Rust For Longer Service Life.
    • Product Feature 2: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Stud Type: Threaded
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Mazda B3000 Front Lower
Mevotech
2007 Mazda B3000 Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Mevotech

P311-4D1AFE0    TXK8695T  New

BL5Z3050A , MCSOE1 , 260-1540 , MCF2233 , 7L5Z3050A

Qty:
$36.31
Mevotech Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bearing Type: Sintered Metal
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Over-built Using Patented Sintered Metal-to-metal Technology Providing Added Endurance And Durability.
    • Features & Benefits 2: Integri-boot Design Is Built Into The Ball Joint Assembly Providing A Superior Seal Against Moisture And Contaminants.
    • Features & Benefits 3: Repel-tek™ Surface Treatment Eliminates The Build Up Of Rust And Corrosion Providing Longer Service Life.
    • Features & Benefits 4: Easysnap Self-locking Cotter Pin Provides Quick And Easy Installation.
    • Features & Benefits 5: Sae Grease Fitting Is Included For Serviceability.
    • Features & Benefits 6: Iso Grade 12 Hardware With Pre-applied Nylok Adhesive For Fastener Retention.
    • Finish: Repel-tek™
    • Mounting Type: Press In
    • Stud Type: Threaded
  • ULTIMATE ENGINEERING. Our most innovative, longest lasting designs.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Mazda B3000 Front Lower
Moog
2000 Mazda B4000 Suspension Ball Joint - Front Lower Moog

P311-2493269    K8695T  New

FA2100 , F6TZ-3078GA , F65Z-3078FE , 101-6769 , F5TZ-3078A , F57Z3050BB , FA2180 , 45D2281 , B8695 , F65Z-3079FE , MK80013 , 505-1281 , MK8695T , 260-1540 , F6TZ-3079GA , F5TZ-3079A , FA2180E , 104222 , FA2100E , 260-1460 , 02-85019 , 45D2221 , 505-1221 , F65Z-3078EJ , F67Z-3079GA , F65Z-3079EJ , F67Z-3078GA , F87A3395BA

Qty:
$32.34
Moog Suspension Ball Joint  Front Lower
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1:
      • Designed For Oe Fit And Function
      • Hardened Ball Stud Made Of Oe Equivalent Or Better Materials To Withstand Higher Loads
    • Feature 2:
      • Patent Pending Dust Boot With Encapsulated Belleville Washer Help Control Axial And Radial Movement
      • Premium Boot Keeps Out Contaminants
    • Feature 3:
      • Powdered Metal Gusher Bearing Design Enables Grease To Flow Through Bearing To Stud For Reduced Friction And Enhanced Strength
      • Replacement Helps Restore Vehicle Handling
    • Feature 4:
      • Heavy Duty Gauge Steel Construction For Strength And Durability
      • Premium Forged Housing With Increased Cross Section Of Up To 52% More Material In Key Areas
    • Feature 5: Larger Grease Reservoir And Easy-to-install Pre-tapped Grease Fitting Hole For Improved Maintenance
    • Feature 6: Greaseable Socket Reduces Corrosion And Wear By Allowing New Lubricant To Flush Contaminants
    • Mounting Type: Press-in
    • Suspension Grade Type: Standard
  • QuickSteer chassis parts are designed and tested to restore steering and handling to their original performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Moog
Position: Front Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Mazda B4000 Front Lower

Latest Mazda Repair and Ball Joint Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

98 Mazda protege strut replacement error.

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From AndrewSE on 98 Mazda protege strut replacement error.

Hello,

New to the forums and could use some advise :)

I made a real bone head move when taking my front drivers side strut apart. I forgot to mark the position for the upper rubber spring seat.

Needless to say I messed out my mount it is all warped and I ordered a replacement.

What do I do now to make sure it's lined up correctly with the new replacement ?

Thank you

Response From Hammer Time

Why is it a problem? It rotates for steering.

Response From AndrewSE Top Rated Answer

Thank you for your reply !

The shop manual and other references mention you have to mark it to make sure it's aligned correctly, which is why they suggest you mark the spring plate with the mount plate.

I'm confused :) When I put it all back together the strut was making a horrible clicking and clinging sound on bumps. I ripped her all apart again and noticed the mount plate was all wrapped and tilted. I can't get the center screw off now on the strut.

Long story short, I was changing my lower ball joint and decided to remove the strut so I can get the new ball joint connected to the control arm and hub. I removed the center screw first (yeah I know ..stupid :) ) Got a spring suppressor and attached the spring to the strut again. So I've now ordered a new mount and strut to fix my stupid error..

Lesson learned... Now I just want to fix my poor Mazda :)

The marking the plates has me concerned.

Response From Hammer Time

The front tires turn to steer so the plate have to rotate for that reason. You have to line the spring up correctly with the seat though if it's recessed for the end of the spring.

clonking knocking sound when braking (??)

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From golfs_18 on clonking knocking sound when braking (??)

Hello, im at my wits end and i stumbled accross this great website offering help and advice and boy, do i need some!

I recently bought a 1999 mazda 323f 1.8 16v 5 door hatch, its the newer shape, anyway, although when i bought it, it came with 12months mot and history with peace of mind and knowing mazda generally had good reputation ect ect, anyway long story short, it developed this knock knock sound which seems to be coming from front of car only when i "BRAKE" it seems to knock on rotation which means faster i am driving to come to brake the knocking sounds faster, when i slow down it follows suit (?) if you know what i mean.

yesterday i took it to my local garage and said all my pads were worn all round as i got discs all round with abs ect i took there advice and they did the work, costing me £100 for the privalige, and you guessed it, it still knocks upon braking so instead of forking out more money, any help or advice what problem could be? i thought ball joint but that wont explain why its constant knock when i only brake and stops when i cruise, anyway thanks for any postings on this topic!!
gary

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hi Gary,

Knocking both before and after new brake parts does suggest it's NOT those parts that are now new. By nature, describing a noise is tricky but I'll say that a wheel bearing is a possibility. Usually those make more of a rough road feel but a cracked race could be the sound you hear. Certainly rule out all safety items such as tie rod ends, ball joints, CV joints - anything to do with suspension or that rotates. It could be a tire, rim or hubcap too. If that's suspect - rotate wheels and see if noise follows a wheel.

Bearing race issues can be elusive. See pic of a generic flawed one..........




OK: You no doubt have a sealed bearing so can't just see this. Another basic pic of a bearing shows inner and outer races ....



OK: It's rare but the flaw could be such that the load of the vehicle's weight isn't right on the flaw until forces change when braking.

As said - a bit rare to fail this way but they can. Will take careful inspection of suspect wheel AND the other side as well as a noise can transfer and make you swear it's one one side but is generated from the other - don't ask how that can do that??

Know this much - If a worn, failed part it won't get better and could cause a big surprise or quick failure so it has to be resolved asap.

Good luck with the fix and please tell us what was found,

T

Response From golfs_18

Thanks for the posts re my braking problem, i have just put the car in another garage and i am awaiting there review of the situation.
I will let you know what the mechanics say.
cheers.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

From across the pond as they say - good luck with an accurate diagnosis. The cracked race is tough as said to be certain of. Allow trusted techs to drive it and hear and feel this for them selves.

Hey - IMO - if that's what is found it's nobody's fault just sh*t luck,

T

masda mx6 makes banging sound while moving and turning

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Bind on masda mx6 makes banging sound while moving and turning

1990 Mazda MX6
4 cyl
Front Wheel Drive
Automatic
98,000 miles

What is causing a banging sound in the front left wheel area, but only occurrs while moving and is exacerbated the tighter you turn the wheel - if i make less tight turns in wide radiuses the sound doesnt happen as frequently.

additionally, after it makes the sound, the car will pull either right or left like its out of alignment, but this only occurrs after a turn and the sound. Seemingly at random it picks either right or left to pull to- I can be driving , make a turn, and it will make the sound and pull left - go a little biut, make another turn, the sound, and it will pull right.

thanks in advance

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Can only be guessing so you need to check everything about what holds the wheel(s) in place and check both sides as noise can travel and fool you as to where the source is.

Things to rule out include:
*Wheel lugs nuts properly tight.
*Wheel bearing that doesn't have in or outward lash.
*Ball Joint
*Strut
*inner and outer tie rod ends.
*Control arm bushings.

In that it can pull either way also suggests that something is very wrong with the rack and pinion steering rack itself just doesn't want to return properly to center again after turning??

Hoisting vehicle and turning wheels (steering them) by hand might help reveal the source problem,

T

sideshift

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From arkansasdave on sideshift

Hello, everyone I am new to this forum and what helped me find it is my car is acting different. I do my own mechanic work I have been working on cars for about 30 years. This kind of has me unsure I think it may be the tires or the trans mount. It is a 2006 Mazda 3 2.0 automatic with 67,000 miles when it shifts it pulls hard to the right you have to keep a good grip on the wheel it is like torque steer when you hit some nitrous. It didn't do this before. I found it had a bad passenger engine mount and changed it out but that didn't fix it. My tires are wearing on the inside like the caster/camber is off I am going to have that re checked I had a 4 wheel laser alignment done at the dealer last year when I put on new tires. anyway if someone has any ideas I would appreciate it I am just trying to narrow it down it also pops when I hit rough spots which it wasn't doing before that sounds to me like the sway bar by the metallic sound it has I am going to check that today.

thanks,
AD

Response From Discretesignals

Does it only pull on acceleration? Does it pull on braking? Inspect the lower control arm bushings.

Response From arkansasdave

It doesn't pull as bad on acceleration and not at all on braking that I have noticed. But I did see a small string of rubber hanging from the control arm bushing and I looked at it close but didn't see anything else wrong, it had the whole control arm replaced last fall with a new strut right before I bought it due to a tow truck driver putting his tie down on the control arm and tightening it too much. That bushing might be bad though. I did spray some silicone on it the other day when I noticed the piece of shaved rubber sticking out.

thanks,
AD

Response From Discretesignals

Get a pry bar and pry on the control arm to see if the bushings are loose.

Response From arkansasdave

Ok, I'll check it out and let you know what I find.


thanks,
AD

Response From arkansasdave

That was it! I sure appreciate the advice I hadn't thought about the bushing because it looked like it was brand new last fall. That thing move the tire and control arm about 1/4 to a 1/2 inch. The other side didn't move at all. Thanks again Oh and that is the sound it was making because I remember where I heard that noise before on cars I had with worn out control arm bushings.

AD

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"That thing move the tire and control arm about 1/4 to a 1/2 inch" Yikes! Back to get an alignment too and seriously check out all steering and suspension items. That tow must have be a real dousy!

T

Response From arkansasdave Top Rated Answer

Ordered me a RayB proffesional series complete control arm with bushings and ball joint. I figured that way everything would be new and hopefully make it align real good before I put on the new tires. Thanks for all the info.

AD

found the problem now what?

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From arkansasdave on found the problem now what?

I finally found the source of my front end noise that my car has been making for about two months. I did change the lower control arm that had bad bushings and now that is new and a new ball joint. But Aug of 2011 the day I bought my 2006 Mazda 3 they put on a new strut on the front drivers side. The noise sounds like it is coming from the drivers side. I pulled off the wheel today for the 3rd time and went into detective mode I am tired of the noise and what I found was at the top of the strut under the hood where it meets the body where the bushing usually is which looked to be there but the nut is off center compared to the other side and there are metal shaving all under the opening like it is moving around and it is not sitting square in the hole so it must be. It did not make this noise for the first year though and the bolts were all tight when I checked except one turned about an 1/8 of a turn. Do I just need to jack it up and recenter the strut in the opening where it is seated right or could the bushing in there be shot or ????? thanks for any info.



Arkansas Dave

Response From Sidom

Sounds like your are describing the strut mount.....If the strut shaft is "offcenter" in the mount & you can see metal shavings.......The mount will need to be replaced......To do the job correctly you would want to change both mounts & struts.......

To change the mount, the strut would need to be disassembled and you don't want to do all that work & reuse old struts...

Response From arkansasdave Top Rated Answer

I took the strut loose and sure enough the guy had left the bolts just loose enough that the strut could move around and had enlarged the hole in the body. So until I can weld the hole back to normal size I moved the strut back as close to the original holes as possible and the top plate back on the outline where it had originally been and torqued the fool out of it enough that it wouldn't move. Until I can repair it and get it realigned. I took it for a drive and problem solved no more noise it was great. Thanks for the advice I appreciate it.


AD

Response From Sidom

Glad you got it quieted down......

I was thinking of the strut center shaft nut in the center of the mount & not the plate mounting nuts.....

Oblonged holes aren't good but as long as the studs aren't damaged then you may not have to replace the mounting plate........