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First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$24.53
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Chas: 227697-
  • Lower - Front
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
1993 - Mazda MX-3
TRW
1993 Mazda MX-3 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-0C012B3    New

Qty:
$61.15
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Chas: 227697-
  • Lower - Front
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1993 - Mazda MX-3
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$24.53
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1994 - Mazda MX-3
TRW
1994 Mazda MX-3 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-0C012B3    New

Qty:
$61.15
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Lower - Front
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Mazda MX-3
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$24.53
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Chas: 630912-
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Mazda Protege
TRW
1993 Mazda Protege Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-0C012B3    New

Qty:
$61.15
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Chas: 630912-
  • Lower - Front
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Mazda Protege
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$24.53
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Chas: 227697-
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Mazda MX-3
TRW
1986 Mazda 323 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-52A7FD6    New

Qty:
$29.28
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: TRW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Mazda 323
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$24.35
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1992 - Mazda Protege
TRW
1992 Mazda Protege Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-17BD215    New

Qty:
$34.52
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: TRW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Mazda Protege
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$24.35
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Chas: -630911
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Mazda Protege
TRW
1993 Mazda Protege Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-17BD215    New

Qty:
$34.52
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Chas: -630911
  • Front - Lower
Brand: TRW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Mazda Protege
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$24.35
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Mazda Protege
CTR
1993 Mazda MX-6 Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-56D6598    New

Qty:
$34.79
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
  • Lower
Brand: CTR
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Vehicle
1993 - Mazda MX-6
Sankei 555
1983 Mazda 626 Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-0563A87    New

Qty:
$11.82
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Ball joint only
  • Lower
Brand: Sankei 555
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1983 - Mazda 626
Sankei 555
1984 Mazda 626 Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-0563A87    New

Qty:
$11.82
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Ball joint only
Brand: Sankei 555
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1984 - Mazda 626
TRW
2005 Mazda B4000 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-596AA38    New

Qty:
$64.15
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • with Aftermarket Control Arm
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
2005 - Mazda B4000
TRW
2001 Mazda B2300 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-03AC03C    New

Qty:
$96.01
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Mazda B2300
TRW
1995 Mazda B2300 Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-1FC77EC    New

Qty:
$48.82
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Mazda B2300
TRW
1993 Mazda Navajo Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-1FC77EC    New

Qty:
$48.82
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Production: 01/11/1993-
Brand: TRW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Mazda Navajo

Latest Mazda Repair and Ball Joint Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

98 Mazda protege strut replacement error.

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From AndrewSE on 98 Mazda protege strut replacement error.

Hello,

New to the forums and could use some advise :)

I made a real bone head move when taking my front drivers side strut apart. I forgot to mark the position for the upper rubber spring seat.

Needless to say I messed out my mount it is all warped and I ordered a replacement.

What do I do now to make sure it's lined up correctly with the new replacement ?

Thank you

Response From Hammer Time

Why is it a problem? It rotates for steering.

Response From AndrewSE Top Rated Answer

Thank you for your reply !

The shop manual and other references mention you have to mark it to make sure it's aligned correctly, which is why they suggest you mark the spring plate with the mount plate.

I'm confused :) When I put it all back together the strut was making a horrible clicking and clinging sound on bumps. I ripped her all apart again and noticed the mount plate was all wrapped and tilted. I can't get the center screw off now on the strut.

Long story short, I was changing my lower ball joint and decided to remove the strut so I can get the new ball joint connected to the control arm and hub. I removed the center screw first (yeah I know ..stupid :) ) Got a spring suppressor and attached the spring to the strut again. So I've now ordered a new mount and strut to fix my stupid error..

Lesson learned... Now I just want to fix my poor Mazda :)

The marking the plates has me concerned.

Response From Hammer Time

The front tires turn to steer so the plate have to rotate for that reason. You have to line the spring up correctly with the seat though if it's recessed for the end of the spring.

clonking knocking sound when braking (??)

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From golfs_18 on clonking knocking sound when braking (??)

Hello, im at my wits end and i stumbled accross this great website offering help and advice and boy, do i need some!

I recently bought a 1999 mazda 323f 1.8 16v 5 door hatch, its the newer shape, anyway, although when i bought it, it came with 12months mot and history with peace of mind and knowing mazda generally had good reputation ect ect, anyway long story short, it developed this knock knock sound which seems to be coming from front of car only when i "BRAKE" it seems to knock on rotation which means faster i am driving to come to brake the knocking sounds faster, when i slow down it follows suit (?) if you know what i mean.

yesterday i took it to my local garage and said all my pads were worn all round as i got discs all round with abs ect i took there advice and they did the work, costing me £100 for the privalige, and you guessed it, it still knocks upon braking so instead of forking out more money, any help or advice what problem could be? i thought ball joint but that wont explain why its constant knock when i only brake and stops when i cruise, anyway thanks for any postings on this topic!!
gary

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hi Gary,

Knocking both before and after new brake parts does suggest it's NOT those parts that are now new. By nature, describing a noise is tricky but I'll say that a wheel bearing is a possibility. Usually those make more of a rough road feel but a cracked race could be the sound you hear. Certainly rule out all safety items such as tie rod ends, ball joints, CV joints - anything to do with suspension or that rotates. It could be a tire, rim or hubcap too. If that's suspect - rotate wheels and see if noise follows a wheel.

Bearing race issues can be elusive. See pic of a generic flawed one..........




OK: You no doubt have a sealed bearing so can't just see this. Another basic pic of a bearing shows inner and outer races ....



OK: It's rare but the flaw could be such that the load of the vehicle's weight isn't right on the flaw until forces change when braking.

As said - a bit rare to fail this way but they can. Will take careful inspection of suspect wheel AND the other side as well as a noise can transfer and make you swear it's one one side but is generated from the other - don't ask how that can do that??

Know this much - If a worn, failed part it won't get better and could cause a big surprise or quick failure so it has to be resolved asap.

Good luck with the fix and please tell us what was found,

T

Response From golfs_18

Thanks for the posts re my braking problem, i have just put the car in another garage and i am awaiting there review of the situation.
I will let you know what the mechanics say.
cheers.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

From across the pond as they say - good luck with an accurate diagnosis. The cracked race is tough as said to be certain of. Allow trusted techs to drive it and hear and feel this for them selves.

Hey - IMO - if that's what is found it's nobody's fault just sh*t luck,

T

masda mx6 makes banging sound while moving and turning

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Bind on masda mx6 makes banging sound while moving and turning

1990 Mazda MX6
4 cyl
Front Wheel Drive
Automatic
98,000 miles

What is causing a banging sound in the front left wheel area, but only occurrs while moving and is exacerbated the tighter you turn the wheel - if i make less tight turns in wide radiuses the sound doesnt happen as frequently.

additionally, after it makes the sound, the car will pull either right or left like its out of alignment, but this only occurrs after a turn and the sound. Seemingly at random it picks either right or left to pull to- I can be driving , make a turn, and it will make the sound and pull left - go a little biut, make another turn, the sound, and it will pull right.

thanks in advance

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Can only be guessing so you need to check everything about what holds the wheel(s) in place and check both sides as noise can travel and fool you as to where the source is.

Things to rule out include:
*Wheel lugs nuts properly tight.
*Wheel bearing that doesn't have in or outward lash.
*Ball Joint
*Strut
*inner and outer tie rod ends.
*Control arm bushings.

In that it can pull either way also suggests that something is very wrong with the rack and pinion steering rack itself just doesn't want to return properly to center again after turning??

Hoisting vehicle and turning wheels (steering them) by hand might help reveal the source problem,

T

sideshift

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From arkansasdave on sideshift

Hello, everyone I am new to this forum and what helped me find it is my car is acting different. I do my own mechanic work I have been working on cars for about 30 years. This kind of has me unsure I think it may be the tires or the trans mount. It is a 2006 Mazda 3 2.0 automatic with 67,000 miles when it shifts it pulls hard to the right you have to keep a good grip on the wheel it is like torque steer when you hit some nitrous. It didn't do this before. I found it had a bad passenger engine mount and changed it out but that didn't fix it. My tires are wearing on the inside like the caster/camber is off I am going to have that re checked I had a 4 wheel laser alignment done at the dealer last year when I put on new tires. anyway if someone has any ideas I would appreciate it I am just trying to narrow it down it also pops when I hit rough spots which it wasn't doing before that sounds to me like the sway bar by the metallic sound it has I am going to check that today.

thanks,
AD

Response From Discretesignals

Get a pry bar and pry on the control arm to see if the bushings are loose.

Response From Discretesignals

Does it only pull on acceleration? Does it pull on braking? Inspect the lower control arm bushings.

Response From arkansasdave

It doesn't pull as bad on acceleration and not at all on braking that I have noticed. But I did see a small string of rubber hanging from the control arm bushing and I looked at it close but didn't see anything else wrong, it had the whole control arm replaced last fall with a new strut right before I bought it due to a tow truck driver putting his tie down on the control arm and tightening it too much. That bushing might be bad though. I did spray some silicone on it the other day when I noticed the piece of shaved rubber sticking out.

thanks,
AD

Response From arkansasdave

Ok, I'll check it out and let you know what I find.


thanks,
AD

Response From arkansasdave

That was it! I sure appreciate the advice I hadn't thought about the bushing because it looked like it was brand new last fall. That thing move the tire and control arm about 1/4 to a 1/2 inch. The other side didn't move at all. Thanks again Oh and that is the sound it was making because I remember where I heard that noise before on cars I had with worn out control arm bushings.

AD

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"That thing move the tire and control arm about 1/4 to a 1/2 inch" Yikes! Back to get an alignment too and seriously check out all steering and suspension items. That tow must have be a real dousy!

T

Response From arkansasdave Top Rated Answer

Ordered me a RayB proffesional series complete control arm with bushings and ball joint. I figured that way everything would be new and hopefully make it align real good before I put on the new tires. Thanks for all the info.

AD

found the problem now what?

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From arkansasdave on found the problem now what?

I finally found the source of my front end noise that my car has been making for about two months. I did change the lower control arm that had bad bushings and now that is new and a new ball joint. But Aug of 2011 the day I bought my 2006 Mazda 3 they put on a new strut on the front drivers side. The noise sounds like it is coming from the drivers side. I pulled off the wheel today for the 3rd time and went into detective mode I am tired of the noise and what I found was at the top of the strut under the hood where it meets the body where the bushing usually is which looked to be there but the nut is off center compared to the other side and there are metal shaving all under the opening like it is moving around and it is not sitting square in the hole so it must be. It did not make this noise for the first year though and the bolts were all tight when I checked except one turned about an 1/8 of a turn. Do I just need to jack it up and recenter the strut in the opening where it is seated right or could the bushing in there be shot or ????? thanks for any info.



Arkansas Dave

Response From Sidom

Sounds like your are describing the strut mount.....If the strut shaft is "offcenter" in the mount & you can see metal shavings.......The mount will need to be replaced......To do the job correctly you would want to change both mounts & struts.......

To change the mount, the strut would need to be disassembled and you don't want to do all that work & reuse old struts...

Response From arkansasdave

I took the strut loose and sure enough the guy had left the bolts just loose enough that the strut could move around and had enlarged the hole in the body. So until I can weld the hole back to normal size I moved the strut back as close to the original holes as possible and the top plate back on the outline where it had originally been and torqued the fool out of it enough that it wouldn't move. Until I can repair it and get it realigned. I took it for a drive and problem solved no more noise it was great. Thanks for the advice I appreciate it.


AD

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

Glad you got it quieted down......

I was thinking of the strut center shaft nut in the center of the mount & not the plate mounting nuts.....

Oblonged holes aren't good but as long as the studs aren't damaged then you may not have to replace the mounting plate........