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First Equipment Quality
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First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
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2002 - Lincoln Blackwood
TRW
2002 Lincoln Blackwood Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-47C067F    New

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TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Standard Version
Brand: TRW
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2002 - Lincoln Blackwood
Motorcraft
2002 Lincoln Blackwood Suspension Ball Joint Motorcraft

P311-3E3FFD1    New

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Motorcraft Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
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Vehicle
2002 - Lincoln Blackwood
TRW
1993 Lincoln Mark VIII Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-2BDD0A8    New

Qty:
$45.08
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1993 - Lincoln Mark VIII
First Equipment Quality
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$28.67
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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1993 - Lincoln Mark VIII
First Equipment Quality
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First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Upper/Left
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
1993 - Lincoln Town Car
TRW
1993 Lincoln Town Car Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-259AAB0    New

Qty:
$117.01
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Upper/Left
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1993 - Lincoln Town Car
First Equipment Quality
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$16.19
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
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1994 - Lincoln Town Car
First Equipment Quality
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First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Upper/Right
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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1993 - Lincoln Town Car
TRW
1990 Lincoln Town Car Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-56051E3    New

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$71.43
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front Lower
Brand: TRW
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1990 - Lincoln Town Car
TRW
1996 Lincoln Town Car Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-2271F12    New

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$87.93
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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1996 - Lincoln Town Car
Lemfoerder
1996 Lincoln Town Car Suspension Ball Joint Lemfoerder

P311-0B40253    New

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Lemfoerder Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: Lemfoerder
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1996 - Lincoln Town Car
TRW
1995 Lincoln Town Car Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-13A08CD    New

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$79.90
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: TRW
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1995 - Lincoln Town Car
TRW
1996 Lincoln Town Car Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-13A08CD    New

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$79.90
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1996 - Lincoln Town Car
TRW
1998 Lincoln Town Car Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-13A08CD    New

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$79.90
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • w/o Zerk Fitting
    (Not Greasable)
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1998 - Lincoln Town Car
TRW
2000 Lincoln LS Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-01E718D    New

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$76.54
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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2000 - Lincoln LS
TRW
2002 Lincoln Blackwood Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-25C09E1    New

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$73.20
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Service replacement for Aftermarket control arm; Will not fit TRW control arm.
Brand: TRW
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2002 - Lincoln Blackwood
TRW
2003 Lincoln Aviator Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-228D074    New

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$48.45
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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2003 - Lincoln Aviator
First Equipment Quality
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$29.28
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
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2003 - Lincoln Navigator
TRW
2003 Lincoln Navigator Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-0B8521F    New

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$35.88
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
2003 - Lincoln Navigator

Latest Lincoln Repair and Ball Joint Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Lincoln struts/airbag

Showing 2 out of 19 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From dave284 on Lincoln struts/airbag

Hey Tom, How hard would it be to to install air bags for the suspention on a 95 Lincoln mark Vlll? I haven't done one before. I know this is your kind of car. BTW still sick but feeling better

Response From dave284

Yea,my heart lies with the older 70s 455 wildcats it could over heat 3 times before any damage would result, the engine / head pure steel not like the cars today( beer cans on wheels) I know the 90s car backfire onetime every thing on it goes to heck I was kinda a buick man back then

Response From Lando10101

Hi guys them set ups are extremely expensive to replace. I have an account with arnott industries . Look them up for future issues they have very Well Priced conversion kits . come complete and easy to install . I dont work for them but I have used em and my experience was great .

Response From dave284

Tom, never mind the air bags , installing conversion kit no-air. The guy who has this car also wants to change the front brakes from shoes to pads on 63 Lincoln convertable, I wouldn't know way before my time,any suggestions.?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Get the air out is a great idea! I avoid those like the plague! I don't think you can on the Continentals but the Mark should be more like a T-Bird or Cougar around then.

The 63 I'm pretty sure is drum front brakes. Bearings in the drum, inner/outer and would look familiar with I think just one wheel cylinder on top. The early discs I think started in 64 and not sure which if any Lincolns. T-Bird had disc in all 64s up - those were a pill to rebuild calipers.
For the 63 you can get about everything new. If stuck the one stop shop is Baker's Auto, Putnam, CT -WWW.BakersAuto.com or email Sales@BakersAuto.com - tell Steve O. I said HI!

Funny About Lincolns: Town Car was just a trim package name just once in the 50s and once in the 60s. They were Continentals (full size), Mark was a different bird. 1980 was the first Town Car only as a body/chassis name for the car itself. Continental was once a Grenada, and a Taurus platform! Go figure??

T

Response From dave284

Tom, feeling better by the hour. The guy haven't towed it here yet ,but waiting to see it one repair at a time, my glass is already overfilled.I have just got a front grill for the 95 lincoln $150 from savage yard and the owner delivered the strut conversion kit. When I start on the 63 let you know.


THANKS TOM

Response From Tom Greenleaf

http://www.arnottindustries.com/part_LINCOLN_Air_Suspension_Parts_yid2.html

That Arnott site is clickable above. Worth archiving on this thread as the air bag suspension will be an ongoing headache for these and other cars.............

T

Response From dave284

Tell me about it. I've had worked on 6 cads past 2 months

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just FYI: Air level has been around since at least the 60s. Just air shocks and rods to sense height at diff and an air pump/pressure release. Two Conts 89+90 failed with the air strut - no spring and hit so low it chewed up the rear tires!! Nice idea Ford! A Town car came here with them blown out - guy with zero bucks and you couldn't roll a golf ball under the thing!

There are features good and bad with every vehicle - I just wish someone would put them all in one vehicle!

Love the slogans over the years..........

GM "Keep your GM car all GM" Jay Leno ---- Why! GM couldn't do it right - why not let someone else's parts try??

Ford has a better idea! --- I'm still waiting!

A fav.... "This is not your Father's Oldsmobile" Me- damn tootin because your Father's Oldsmobile could suck that peice of crap thru the air cleaner and spit it out the exhaust and not cough!! ( I owned a boring 98 with HO 455 W-30 ((special order request -365bhp)) package that blew the doors off almost everything)

LOL,

T

Response From Double J

Hey Tom / everybody...

I owned a few 98's in my time....
MAN... When you put a boot in their a**...they would flat out sh** and git.....

Here's another fav...." Chevrolet ..." The Heartbeat of America"... good slogan if it was used back in the 50's,60's or early 70's but not in the 90's...lol....they changed it in the 90's to " Genuine Chevrolet"...lol...genuine what? crap?
I hope my heart beats a lot better than that.

Thanks for the laugh....

Response From dave284

EYE CANDY!

Response From Tom Greenleaf



Did I hear "Wildcat?"

T

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

I was removing the front struts and notice the upper ball joints shot. Can these be pressed out or do I have to replace the whole control arm? I want to make sure before I remove them. BTW since I'm installing these non-air struts is there a way to disable the ride control service display warning?

Response From dave284

Tom I'm in the same boat, theres not much that I know about the ride control system on this one, the sensors looks the same as on a cad. and if the system is intergrated with the engine speed ,thats another kick in the @ss. I wonder if the people that sold the owner the struts would have any info. ?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Duralast / Ball Joint - Upper
Warranty - LLT FA4071 $73.99 Application: Driver side Note: Arm & joint

Dave - Unless I clicked around wrong this is one piece and not so expensive to try to do just the joint. I don't really know the best way to get rid of the dash light and bet the bulb is hard to get at.........not sure but sometimes best to keep a blown bulb in the socket on some things,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Right - It might need to be plugged in - once again don't know for sure. Before any of these cars I knew a couple people who really did take a screwdriver and hammer it in thru the dash to put out the damn lights! Ahhhh - don't do that

Didn't this car come with a feature that lowered the whole car an inch at a certain speed? That could be in conjuction with other adjustment and I'm full of "I don't know for sure on that" and it might not be a separate module,


T

Response From dave284

Thats the part, I had a feeling it would be a one piece. And for the warning light it appears as words just like the ones on the cadillacs , I'm thinking this vehicle would have a ride control module. If so ,by disconnecting it would it stop the messages comming on?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Tidbit on this: I test drove one in 1993 brand new (was that first year for this?) with and for a customer and recall that this car lowered 1" at about 50-55 mph (thought that was slow at the time) for reduced wind resistance and may also have had a setting for "firm" vs "norm" handling control (Some T-Birds did) and we did have to go to the nearest interstate to even drive at any speed and dealer allowed us to.

He drove the car. I never noticed the lowering thing and he was a nut and took the sucker up over 100mph and held it there - no problem and I clearly recall with all vents, radio and things off the car was silent inside!!

None-the-less it almost certainly routed vehicle speed thru some control module for this crap. I serviced his cars for years and he didn't buy this one or I'd have known more about the things. For practical purposes cars just don't need to sustain speeds over 80 mph anywhere in the US that I know of so it's kind of stupid and expensive to design them for that for the US market.

Hey - even Kitty doesn't need that kind of speed. She leaves that to her relatives - "the Jaguars"


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I have to plead dunno for sure - never worked on any of those for anything. Is this an air spring or an air bagged strut set up? I just tried to get a pic of what they look like and fell short too?? The air spring should be straight forward and the air struts on at least the Continental set up was catastrophically EXPENSIVE!! These should be the same as most regular springs or struts for replacement. Ones that don't use a coil spring at all drop like a kittie dragging butt whey the blow out - I know that! Perhaps way2old or DanD has a procedure for this or have done them.

Hey - get well soon!

T

Creaking noise while driving 98 Navi

Showing 5 out of 7 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From hammaway on Creaking noise while driving 98 Navi

I have a 1998 Lincoln Navigator 4WD 5.4L V8 with 156,000 miles. When I am driving down the road it will creak especially if the road is bumpy. It also creaks when I turn and the car is beggining to wobble while I drive. I'm guessing the problem is the ball joints, but I'm not really sure what the problem could be. Any help or info would be appreciated. Thanks!

Response From Sidom

That is kind of what I was thinking......See a lot of Fords with noisy BJs. If you can duplicate the noise while it's standing still by bouncing the frt end or turning the wheels, get under it and see if you tell by listening where the noise is coming from. Sometimes grabbing the con arms, springs or pieces that is close to the noise helps by being able to feel the vibration

Response From hammaway

yeah it makes the same noise when i get in or out or push the front left side of the car up and down.

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

That'll make it easier to find. Seen alot with bad BJ's or tie rod ends. Just have someone turn the wheel & carefully feel around, you'll feel the vibration when you get close to the bad part...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just to add a note on the creaking - Fords more than others in my experience. Certainly rule out truly worn parts but some from chassis Fords and others can too get a rubber to shiny metal creak/squeek as the bushings for control arms and body mounts to move some. Worse after a salty wet drive when it dries out. I've used WD-40 with luck to correct and redo when wheels are off or there again for some reason. Rubber products don't want real petroleum based lubes. WD-40 isn't perfect for this but not too hard on rubber. Silicone spray if this is the problem works too but I find it doesn't last as long.

The bushings aren't bearings but rely on torquing of the rubber so there is some friction. Generic pic below..........



T

Response From hammaway

Thanks for your input. So pretty much I should try spraying that stuff with WD-40 before I try getting all new parts for it? Should I try getting a lube job too? It wobbles when i drive faster and I'm not sure if thats because of the ball joint problem or because my tires are getting worn out. My navigator also has another problem of filling up the shocks at random times so maybe thats causing it to be imbalenced.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The wobble wouldn't be the noise. That needs to be found - wheel, tire, a brake issue, bearing or whatever. By itself a worn part front end part generally won't cause any wobble/shake etc., but makes it worse. It all needs checking out. U-Joints, CV joints and a real bad bearing could - again not so much the front end steering parts,

T

2000 Lincoln Towncar - Feels like going over rumble strips

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From bfrost on 2000 Lincoln Towncar - Feels like going over rumble strips

Sporadically feels like I am going over rumble strips. We had a loose lower ball joint and replaced it but it didn't fix the problem. It happens at various speeds from 25 mph to 70 mph. 80,000 miles, new tires and aligned. Was told that it could possible be the transmission. It feels like the vibration is under the drivers seat. Any input would be appreciated.

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

How long since last tune up? If you have a small engine misfire, it will do the same thing. It is possible that you have what is called torque converter shudder. This can be eliminated by either flushing the transmission fluid and changing the filter. Or, as a stop gap measure, you can buy a can of anti-shudder that will stop the shudders. Just remember the additive is a band-aid fix.

Response From bfrost

Thank you. I've not had it tuned up because it says 100,000 miles and I have 80,000. Should I take it and have the transmission flushed?

Response From way2old

I would do a tune up first. The 100,000 mile claim is ususlly never reached. The plugs will last that long as long as everything else is perfect. We have to tune ours anywhere from 40,000 and up. You may want to have the transmission serviced. Maybe not a complete flush, but a filter and fluid change will not hurt anything.

2002 Lincoln Town car, rubbing/grinding sound when steering

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Juche on 2002 Lincoln Town car, rubbing/grinding sound when steering

I own a 2002 town car, has about 101k miles on it. It didn't really have any problems with the suspension (I don't think at least) until I ran over a concrete divider at about 15mph last week. I was driving at night and after pulling out of a stop light, turned left and hit the divider (I believe it was a ramped divider, it wasn't a curb that was perpendicular to the road).

Ever since then I have had a rubbing and grinding sound that seems to come from the front left of my car. I believe it has gotten worse just over the last week.

The day it happened I did the shock absorption test.



On the day it happened, I didn't get any creaking sound from the front left wheel. But now I do when I do it. So whatever it is I fear it is degenerating fast. I don't even think it made any creaking sounds until a day or two after I hit the divider. I hit it it on wednesday, and the sound (I think) started on Friday.

I took it to a mechanic and they told me it was the ball joints (upper and lower) as well as the idler arm.

But as I was driving home from work today a guy in the parking lot of my apartment complex who was working on his cousins car (his cousins car had been in a front end accident and he was repairing it, so I assume he knows a bit about cars to be able to do that) stopped me and told me it was the bearings. I can't get to my preferred mechanic (a guy I trust and have worked with for years) because he is 60 miles away and I'm having trouble fitting it in my work schedule. So I'd like a second opinion.

I am a car novice. I have no idea if it is the bearing, ball joint, idler arm or something totally different.

As far as the sound the car makes, if I do the shock absorption test and put weight on the corners it makes a creaking sound when I do the front left wheel, but not the other 3 wheels. When I steer the car I get a rubbing and creaking sound. When I drive straight I get the sound too (but it is worse when steering) and it may sound worse when I am driving slow instead of fast.

The power steering fluid levels are fine (I was told to check that, but that is within range).

Does anyone have any ideas?

I was also told that this could lead to catastrophic failure where the wheel comes off while driving. How big is the risk of this over the next couple of weeks? I would prefer to buy my own parts and have my mechanic fix it (whatever it is, I am going to try to get to him this week sometime). Would something like this be safe to not deal with for the next 2 weeks (by that I mean it may take 2 weeks to get a proper diagnosis, buy the parts and set up an appointment with my mechanic to fix it)? The people at the auto repair shop I went to implied it would probably be fine, but there was still a risk of catastrophic failure.

No matter what it is, would I need to replace parts for both front wheels or just the front left? If I needed new ball joints (as an example, if that is what it is) would I need them on both sides or just the front left side?

Response From Juche Top Rated Answer

Alrighty, I'll respond. Had a second mechanic check it out (a guy I trust). He said the ball joints were fine but the idler arm was damaged. He replaced the arm and greased up the joints. It no longer makes the rubbing sound. Total cost, about $85 in parts and labor (much better than the 1k I was being quoted by the first mechanic who wanted to replace the idler arm as well as the upper and lower ball joints on both sides). I still need an alignment, that is about $80-90 but meh.

So of the 3 people who checked the car (the first mechanic, the guy in the parking lot, the second mechanic) the second mechanic was right. The ball joints and bearings were fine, just the idler arm needed work.

Response From Discretesignals

You sure the only thing that needed replacement was the idler arm. Done many Mercury GM, Crown Vics, Town car and Continentals ball joints and sway bar links because the dust boot were ripped which allowed dirt and water into the joints.

Response From Juche

You sure the only thing that needed replacement was the idler arm. Done many Mercury GM, Crown Vics, Town car and Continentals ball joints and sway bar links because the dust boot were ripped which allowed dirt and water into the joints.

Apparently not. My mechanic back home looked at it and said the ball joints were fine, but I just took it into Sears for an alignment and they said the ball joint was loose and needed to be replaced.

So I'm going to have to get that looked at. I'm not sure if the upper and lower ball joints (as well as the idler arm) are the end of it or not. But I hope so.