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CTR
2001 Acura CL Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-4A3D91C    W0133-1856331  New

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CTR Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front suspension.
Brand: CTR
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2001 - Acura CL
CTR
2009 Acura TL Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-4A3D91C    W0133-1856331  New

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CTR Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: CTR
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2009 - Acura TL
CTR
2004 Acura TSX Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-36C08B6    W0133-1804852  New

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$36.77
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front suspension. The Honda dealer offers this component only at a much higher cost as part of the complete upper control arm assembly.
  • The Honda dealer offers this component only as part of the complete upper control arm assembly.
Brand: CTR
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2004 - Acura TSX
CTR
2003 Acura EL Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-317C8D3    W0133-1842442  New

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$25.36
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
  • The Honda dealer offers this component only as part of the complete suspension knuckle assembly.
Brand: CTR
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2003 - Acura EL
CTR
2004 Acura EL Suspension Ball Joint CTR

P311-317C8D3    W0133-1842442  New

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$25.36
CTR Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: CTR
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2004 - Acura EL
TRW
2001 Acura CL Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-27D7B65    W0133-1968255  New

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$62.54
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Non-Adjustable
Brand: TRW
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2001 - Acura CL
TRW
1997 Acura CL Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-1D940E9    W0133-1969433  New

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$120.63
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Adjustable for camber.
Brand: TRW
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1997 - Acura CL
Sankei 555
2004 Acura TSX Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-27340B1    W0133-1979030  New

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$35.32
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Sankei 555
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2004 - Acura TSX
TRW
2004 Acura TSX Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-168B2B6    W0133-1979030  New

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TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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2004 - Acura TSX
Genuine
2004 Acura TSX Suspension Ball Joint Genuine

P311-26E0B2F    W0133-1979030  New

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$93.62
Genuine Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
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2004 - Acura TSX
TRW
1992 Acura Integra Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-0D2728F    W0133-1615175  New

Qty:
$23.37
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: TRW
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Vehicle
1992 - Acura Integra
Karlyn
1992 Acura Integra Suspension Ball Joint Karlyn

P311-2DD9D61    W0133-1615175  New

Qty:
$26.19
Karlyn Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: Karlyn
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1992 - Acura Integra
TRW
1993 Acura Integra Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-0D2728F    W0133-1615175  New

Qty:
$23.37
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: TRW
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1993 - Acura Integra
Karlyn
1991 Acura Legend Suspension Ball Joint Karlyn

P311-3512176    W0133-1614601  New

Qty:
$24.31
Karlyn Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: Karlyn
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1991 - Acura Legend
Sankei 555
1991 Acura Legend Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-34BD5BF    W0133-1614601  New

Qty:
$41.28
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front - Lower
Brand: Sankei 555
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Vehicle
1991 - Acura Legend
TRW
1991 Acura Legend Suspension Ball Joint TRW

P311-5E4B5B9    W0133-1614601  New

Qty:
$71.35
TRW Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
1991 - Acura Legend
Karlyn
1992 Acura Legend Suspension Ball Joint Karlyn

P311-3512176    W0133-1614601  New

Qty:
$24.31
Karlyn Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: Karlyn
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Vehicle
1992 - Acura Legend
Sankei 555
1992 Acura Legend Suspension Ball Joint Sankei 555

P311-34BD5BF    W0133-1614601  New

Qty:
$41.28
Sankei 555 Suspension Ball Joint
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Sankei 555
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Acura Legend
First Equipment Quality
2007 Acura RDX Suspension Ball Joint First Equipment Quality

P311-2720FB2    W0133-1843715  New

Qty:
$15.71
First Equipment Quality Suspension Ball Joint
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
2007 - Acura RDX
Karlyn
1999 Acura Integra Suspension Ball Joint Karlyn

P311-4645E7E    W0133-1635443  New

Qty:
$29.81
Karlyn Suspension Ball Joint
  • Front - Lower
Brand: Karlyn
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Vehicle
1999 - Acura Integra

Latest Acura Repair and Ball Joint Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Knocking in rear of 2002 Acura EL

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From madmax0527 on Knocking in rear of 2002 Acura EL

I have a 2002 Acura EL 1.7L. with 225,000kms. that makes knocking noises when going over any kind of bumps. I replaced the struts but the noise is still there. I checked to make sure spare was tight as well. but I'm still not sure where the knocking is originating. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Response From Hammer Time

Something is loose and it just needs to be inspected a little closer. Could be stabilizer bar, exhaust system, worn steering components , etc.

Response From madmax0527 Top Rated Answer

Could it be ball joints or suspension?

Response From Hammer Time

Sure, it could be any number of things. Inspecting it on a lift is the only way you are going to find out

Response From madmax0527

Thanks, appreciate the help.

Power steering problem? please help.

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From riderjot on Power steering problem? please help.

Recently whenever I turn the steering wheel it seems there is a pump around the engine that sounds like it's accelerating.

Wondering if this could be a problem? the power steering fluid is full.

Also, on the driver side, there seems to be some sort of creaking noise, it doesn't happen when I'm driving straight, sometimes over bumps, sometimes when I steer.

Anyone know what these symptoms sounds like? would it be expensive to fix?

Make: 2000 Acura TL 3.2

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

The creaking could be a ball joint or something. You need to have it inspected by a competent shop.

2006 Acura Shaking, Stuttering, and Dying at Idle

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Jessika on 2006 Acura Shaking, Stuttering, and Dying at Idle

2006 Acura TL
3.2 L V6
42,000 Miles

I have around 42,000 miles on my 2006 Acura TL with a 6-speed manual transmission. It has been a few days since I last drove my car and today I started noticing mild difficultly accelerating in first gear, it was like there was a drag on the car, similar to taking off with the parking brake still engaged. It seemed like the car just did not want to move starting out in first gear, it was like pressing on the gas and getting a 1/4 of the response. The drag was not very noticeable in the other gears while accelerating, mostly just first gear when I was starting from a stop or near stop with the clutch pushed in at idle. There were also weird rpm drops when I pressed in the clutch. It seems the tach dropped lower than I remember it typically dropping for idle as well as hanging/bouncing at different rpm levels that I have not seen before. Usually there is only one hang I notice which I believe is done for rev matching.

I also noticed a mild rough abnormal idle which proceeded to get really bad....all within about 20 miles of mainly city driving. As I pulled into my driveway my car was idling really rough, loud, sputtering, shaking, and on the verge of dying (dash lights going on and off). The only thing that helped me get up my driveway in first gear was pressing in the clutch and revving a little for a higher rpm, then releasing. My car was sputtering, and dying, then coming back alive with the application of gas in neutral (clutch depressed). The very loud idle sounded almost like when the engine turns over but won't start. At a higher rpm around 3,000 - 4,000 the rough idle dissipated and the car seemed *almost* normal. It died several times and I kept restarting it and giving a little gas to keep the rpm up high enough to limp it into the garage. At higher rpm such as driving on the freeway, and in gears other than first it seemed okay but I can't be sure because it was finally at its absolute worst as I arrived home. I also noticed an egg odor after I exited the freeway that I believe came from my car, but I have smelled that before so it may not be relevant.

It seems that the low rpm, which is running lower than usual at idle is causing my car to die. However, I have no clue why this is happening and why my engine sounds like it is going to blow up. It truly sounds awful.

I don't drive my car hard...sometimes a little spirited, but mostly average and I have never hit a wrong gear i.e. aiming for 4th and hitting 2nd.

I also use premium fuel, 91 octane here in California as required/recommended by Acura.

Edited to add:

I have only done the maintenance required according to the driver information system. I have not changed spark plugs or timing belt. I believe I had the air filters changed and I have had all of the oil changes completed at the appropriate intervals.

I have had the clutch master cylinder and battery replaced under warranty.


Thank you for any help and information!

Response From Abbass

This could be more of a problem than balancing. You should still have a warranty use it, and let the dealer correct it. Rack & Pinion is a consideration upper and lower control arms, ball joints. Who knows. The dealer knows let him eat it.

____________________
(Links not allowed)

Response From Jessika Top Rated Answer


This could be more of a problem than balancing. You should still have a warranty use it, and let the dealer correct it. Rack & Pinion is a consideration upper and lower control arms, ball joints. Who knows. The dealer knows let him eat it.

____________________
(links not allowed)
Thanks for the response but my warranty is over....4 years or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first. I am kicking myself in the butt for not driving the full 50,000 within the first 4 years as I believe many, but not all, issues are more mileage than time related (other than time spent idling). However, it is definitely not a steering or balancing issue...I'm positive it was engine, electrical, or fuel system related....or something along those lines.

As an update I couldn't help but start my car back up again.... there were no lights (don't remember seeing any when the problem occured either) and everything was running normally....I don't get it. There was definitely something seriously wrong earlier and I am sure it will be back. I didn't actually drive it so I will do that tomorrow and see if the problem comes on gradually again like before. Hopefully I will get a few more responses as to what the problem could be.

Also, now that I think about it the sound was something between a severe knock (sputtering) and the sound of an engine trying to turn over.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Abbass : Site is open to comment or suggest but please read the posts first. WTF would front end parts have to do with a stumbling engine? First day you start advertising - wrong and stop that at once!

__________________________________________

Jessika: If you can, get codes read. Anytime engine isn't running properly they should be in storage. Tons of around town driving if constant may be a factor never warming up fully perhaps many times?

That egg smell that you said you smelled before could be and probably is your car. That could be an overworked catalytic converter up to it being an exhaust restriction now and if so very well could be sending misinformation to engine controls hence the stumbling, idle changes, and more.

You may get a code for a catalytic converter but more likely that it is the result of another fault not the source problem but still could be damaged/plugged up.

Do you plan on fixing this yourself? Still for now I suggest a diagnosis done professionally and decide from there. If no MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) is lit when running it should be by your description. Just with key on run the bulbs should light as a bulb check and some cars need that light to work or crazy things happen.

More: Does this car have its original battery? If so that pushing the limit of its useful life and may be a factor. Door jam should show date/month it was made which could be 2005 to mid to late 2006.

Targeting the problem areas via diagnosis with high end scanning tools should go a long way to save tossing unneeded parts and be worth it,

Tom

Response From Jessika

Thank you for your response.....very late update.....I ordered a code reader, no codes, took it to Honda, no codes. Problem disappeared shortly after it started, maybe bad gas? Car requires premium fuel, which is not very popular so perhaps there was some contaminant in the gas. The egg smell is slight only at full throttle, like redlining every gear, which I rarely do, and the smell seems to be the norm for this car and the last Honda I had. The car battery was replaced under warranty once around mid 2008. Battery will die and car will not start if I sit (car off) with navigation screen on, so I avoid that. A battery charger seems to work if that occurs though. Anyways, thanks to everyone who responded and I'm sorry this thread couldn't serve as a future reference to anyone else with the same car and same issue.

Steering wheel problem 07 Mazda 3 iSport

Showing 2 out of 20 Posts | Show 18 Hidden Posts
Question From shadow69playa on Steering wheel problem 07 Mazda 3 iSport

Hi im new here and have no where else to turn as i bought a new (used car) and the auto dealer claims there is nothing wrong with my car, and i need help :(

MY CAR:
2007 Mazda 3i Sport
96k miles
4door
Stock everything on it


What my car is doing: (its 2 problems possibly related)

1st when im in park and reverse to get out of parking spot, i stop put my car in drive. When i start to move from that stop i hear a thud and feel it in my feet. This also happens when stopping hard, (like at a stoplight) and then start driving again. 1 simple thud felt under my feet. It also does this when stopping on a up hill stop, then beginning to drive uphill again i hear and feel thud beneath my feet.

2nd when my car hits bumps , of any size my steering wheel shakes from 12 to 11 and also from 12 to 1 . I tried to test it and hit a bump with just my left front tire, and got the shake, it also happens when hitting a bump with just my right tire. (at any speed)
-Id like to note when going highway speed and hitting bumps with either tire my steering wheel shakes then a slight vibration is felt in front end for about 1-2 seconds afterward.

Id like to note i did get an alignment and everything is straight and fine in that aspect, and when i do hit bumps i do NOT lose control it just shakes my steering wheel it doesn't SEEM to effect my direction im driving at all.

I thought initally it was my tie rods or ball joints or berings. so i took it in , the auto dealer has a shop built in and says nothing is wrong with my car. So i took it home and jacked it up on my stock tire jack (1 side at a time)

-I lifted my right front tire only (as if i was changing my tire) and did a 12-6 and 3-9 shake test..
12-6 shake NOTHING ABNORMAL
3-9 shake I HeAR THUD THUD THUD at every shake. ( IT WAS MY STEERING WHEEL TURNING! and hitting the steering wheel lock i guess)

Now please keep in mind the only tire off ground was the right front (the one i was testing) I looked under to watch as my brother did it and didnt see any abnormal movement other then my inner tire rod Very slightly going in (guess due to the steering wheel turning?)


I did the exact same thing to just the left front and the exact same outcome 12-6 nothing, 3-9 THUD THUD THUD from the steering wheel turning and hitting the lock. ( by lock i mean the stop or something that makes ur steering wheel unable to turn when the car key isnt in or the car is off.)


Other then that i did hear a little noise when attempting to spin the wheel (it only spun like 1/5 of a turn (each tire) while lifted) it didnt sound bad but it did make a sound)


Please help me :( thank you for all your time.

Response From nickwarner

Check your motor mounts for wear. A deteriorated mount will allow the powertrain to move too far and too quickly when you apply power, giving you a thud.

It may be worth having a different shop check this, as you can get a written diagnosis from them and it will give you some firm ground to stand on if you choose to take this up with the car dealer. This is a 6 year old car, and I'm sure it was bought as-is with no warranty. Was this doing this at the time you bought it? If so, why did you buy it? If it didn't do it until you had the car for a bit, you likely are on your own to pay for this. If it was right away after buying it and you can show them what is wrong, you may convince them to repair it at a free or reduced rate but with a used car that has no warranty they aren't required to do so. A little tact with them will help get it resolved.

Response From shadow69playa

I bought it 2 months ago, i have full warranty on all suspension, engine, and mechanical including motor mounts and labor until 150k miles. i made it a point to pay the extra money to get all warranty possible when buying the car. so Yes it IS covered. (with a 200 dollar deductible) and No i did not notice this happening until 30 days after buying it.

I will be taking this to another place, but im weighing my options on paying the deductible or trying to fix it myself, i am aware of basic suspension stuff, but this one baffles me.

The thing that bothers me most is i KNOW FOR SURE something is wrong, yet the dealer says they checked my suspension and nothing is wrong with it. And i have a feeling in my fine print of warranty (which ill check later) i must take it to them to fix. and if they say nothings wrong, im in a bind. So im thinking if i can figure out the exact problem, hold there hand and walk them through what is wrong with it they will see it. Because initially i simply told them the problem and said i think its tie rods or ball joints but im not a mechanic and not sure.

And yes tomorrow after work ill do a thorough check on my motor mounts. (which after changing my pontiac's i will NOT be changing these myself lol)

Response From nickwarner

They wouldn't be checking motor mounts if they are just checking the suspension, so maybe this is being overlooked by them. I'm guessing you did the lower motor mount on a Pontiac, like a Grand Prix maybe? You're right, its not the most fun in the world. Give the mounts a good check with someone torqueing the motor for you so you can see the total movement, and it will be easier to explain it to this dealer what is wrong and be on the road again happily.

Response From shadow69playa

Definitely i will , thank you!

well part 1 has a possible solution, now how bout the steering wheel thing? could that be related to the mounts as well? Or a totally different problem?

(id like to note although i can change mounts, tie rods etc. its only because i watched videos on youtube how to do the stuff, trial and error'ed it on my old vehicle and learned it hands on, other then that i have no knowledge of vehicles)

So if thats a stupid question, sorry ahead of time.


-The biggest thing i think im baffled by (regarding the steering wheel) is because i was under the assumption that both tires were connected with 1 bar with inner tie rod followed by outer then to tire, so if 1 tire turned the other had to turn as well. but if 1 is stationary (as explained in 1st post) how is moving just the single tire (right or left) able to turn the steering wheel at all?

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

if the drivetrain is moving around, it will certainly make the whole car feel different. You may possibly even have a tire causing your vibration. An easy trick would be to rotate the tires and see if the symptoms either go away or go to the rear. If so, you have confirmed it.

This site is here to help people like you. After all, if you knew a lot about cars you probably wouldn't need to be here, right? You won't learn anything if you don't ask any questions. Since you're learning a lot from You Tube, you should go to ericthecarguy.com too. He has a lot of vids on youtube but he has all of them for free on his site. He tends to work mostly on Japanese cars too as he used to be an Acura tech. If you come across videos by Scotty Kilmer, don't watch them unless you want to wreck your car by taking his advice. Trust me on that. I cringe when he puts out a new vid. We've had people post on here that dumped a bottle of paint thinner in their gas tank and tried to clean a catalyst with laundry detergent because he said it was a good idea. Its not.

Response From shadow69playa

Id like to specify something before it gets lost in posts. For the 2nd part (about the steering wheel) , when i say shaking , i need to be more specific in my description:

When hitting bumps my steering wheel TURNS from left to right about 1 hour (if my steering wheel was a clock).

The shaking (vibration) is only felt at high speeds AFTER the turns *from hitting the bumps, have started.

Example:

1-40 mph - I hit bump/crack etc. in road. steering wheel turns rapidly from 11 to 1 and back (more or less depending on how deep/high the bump crack in road is)

40 and up mph - The steering wheel turns so rapidly from 11 to 1 and back and forth its a shaky vibration. .

It almost feels like my wheels like u stated above, and going left and right very very fast and then straightening themselves out again as i continue driving.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry if I missed it but have you checked the motor mounts yet as Nick first suggested? No telling what can bump what if it moves too much,

T

Response From shadow69playa

Ok update i checked the mounts ( they appear fine, and no big movement in motor when revving it up and etc.)

i did go under car again to look at something i overlooked the 1st time. The sound my wheel made when i rotated it and the source of the sound.

heres a video of me turning the tire while the car is jacked up and the noise it makes, (in the video i show only the right front tire. but both tires make this same sound and it originates from directly below the steering wheel. (where the steering wheel connects to this bar)

http://v6.tinypic.com/player.swf?file=10e58ht&s=6


and heres the source of the noise



Both tires make that sound and i put my hand on the (COLORED RED ROD) in picture, it seems to originate from directly under the steering wheel, wherever this bar connects too. ( i couldnt see it becuase then entire bottom of the car has a huge plastic over on it.


the left of the image is my tire, this is connected to the center of the tire, then goes across to the other tire. I also was able to push this in with my hand (when i gripped it i was able to push it into itself and it moved about a 1/2 inch) not sure what this rod even is? CV joint? and should i be able to move it by gripping it and pushing it towards the other tire) (if looking at image i pushed it to the right (towards the motor the direction of rod and it moved)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I can't make that video play but not matter. Since this originates from putting it in gear motor mounts are most suspect to me. You need to know how to check them not just rev it up,

T

Response From shadow69playa

the car makes the thud from a stop to a go or from a stop on a uphill and a start going again, it even has done it without switching gears.

i was driving uphill, a steep hill while holding it in 2nd gear the whole time. i accelerated to speed up and it goes thud, and as soon as my car bogs down from high rpm it thuds again until i press on the gas again. almost like a broken bolt or something shifting direction based on the momentum of the car. btw this is just a random guess i have no idea whats going on.


Is there another way to check the mounts?


The video is showing the 2nd problem listed involving the steering wheel turning and the bumps causing vibration. i was just curious if that noise was some indicator of something . my next post will be a youtube link to the video maybe that will work.

Response From Hammer Time

There should be something very obvious under the car there. It could be suspension or it could be a loose caliper. Someone is going to have to watch from underneath. A drive on lift would be best.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Finally saw video. Just moving wheel forward and back with a clunk suggests a bad CV joint to me but like Hammer just said watching it from underside you could better nail exactly what is making that noise. CV joint usually "crackle" on turns more than this behaviour. Without the right look at parts as HT said you still are guessing,

T

Response From Hammer Time

That's definitely not a C/V joint but could be a control arm or anything else in the suspension> C/V joints don't get play like that and still drive.

Response From shadow69playa

the sound in the video, the (semi grinding sound or whatever it is) its originating from directly below the steering wheel. So whatever that thing is i circled in the picture, it goes all the way under my car and connects to the steering wheel, that part is the part thats making the noise. when it makes that noise it vibrates the whole rod, as well as the circled part. and could that effect the 1st problem? when i hit bumps the steering wheel turns and vibrates?

Response From shadow69playa

i looked it up to be able to say where the noise is originating, its the inner cv joint area or whatever it connects too.

Response From Hammer Time

An inner C'V joint will make a noise like that if the tripod has come apart. Look and see if the axle shaft moves at all without the outside housing mimicking it.

Response From shadow69playa

Ok ive came to the conclusion that it MAY be my cv joints. now i give up on this stupid car lol. im going to take it in. and i just read through my warranty of covered parts on my car, but i have a question.

I do not see CV joints listed in my warranty :( But it does list some things like this , can you please verify if any of these are cv joints



Front wheel drive:
-Final drive housing, all internal parts including :carrier case, gear sets, chain and sprockets, berings, bushings, axle shafts, universal joints, front hub berings, locking hub assembly, drive shaft support and all fastners for the componets listed above.

Theres also and Engine and transmission section. my main question is are universal joints cv joints? i looked at the image when i googled it and they look the same?

I also was fortunate enough to purchase the extended warrenty, which includes many many (4 pages) of things also covered in addition to this warranty. So if these are not cv joints, what other names do they go by, and what should i be looking for in the list of covered stuff.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Axle shafts - that's what I would call the items that include CV joints. Back a bit. From your video of the noise a CV joint that bad should have totally failed as in broken up if it could have play in the manner.

A CV (constant velocity) joint is in place of where a plain "U" joint could be but they are far for adaptive to turning sharper so widely used in most everything FWD.

Pointless to discuss but the very old way for RWD was to use two "U" joints centered by a spring ball also referred to as a constant velocity idea for those.

Your repair should be covered if your warranty company is playing fair,

T

Response From shadow69playa


this is the youtube link hopefully this works better then my 1st attempt