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First Equipment Quality
2008 Pontiac G5 CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-3E436F5    W0133-1775149  New

Qty:
$73.91
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission
2008 - Pontiac G5 SE Automatic
First Equipment Quality
2010 Pontiac G6 CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-3719E36    W0133-1843630  New

Qty:
$80.22
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2010 - Pontiac G6 GT
First Equipment Quality
2008 Pontiac G6 CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-3719E36    W0133-1843630  New

Qty:
$80.22
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • ; Except Enhanced Electronic Shifting
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2008 - Pontiac G6 SE
First Equipment Quality
2008 Pontiac Torrent CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-1A6BFEA    W0133-1855045  New

Qty:
$84.72
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Front Left
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2008 - Pontiac Torrent GT
First Equipment Quality
2008 Pontiac Torrent CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-3FDB9F0    W0133-1855046  New

Qty:
$83.92
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Front Right
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2008 - Pontiac Torrent GT
First Equipment Quality
2009 Pontiac Vibe CV Axle Assembly 4 Cyl 1.8L First Equipment Quality

P311-4F51F34    W0133-2267546  New

Qty:
$133.85
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • ; Production: 08/01/2008-
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2009 - Pontiac Vibe L 4 Cyl 1.8L 110 1798 Fr:08-01-08
First Equipment Quality
2009 Pontiac Vibe CV Axle Assembly 4 Cyl 1.8L First Equipment Quality

P311-4F51F34    W0133-2267546  New

Qty:
$133.85
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • ; Production: -07/31/2008
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2009 - Pontiac Vibe L 4 Cyl 1.8L 110 1798 To:07-31-08
First Equipment Quality
2010 Pontiac Vibe CV Axle Assembly 4 Cyl 1.8L First Equipment Quality

P311-4F51F34    W0133-2267546  New

Qty:
$133.85
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Pontiac Vibe Manual L 4 Cyl 1.8L 110 1798
First Equipment Quality
2003 Pontiac Grand Prix CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-4E6AAF3    W0133-2204412  New

Qty:
$100.80
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2003 - Pontiac Grand Prix GTP
First Equipment Quality
2009 Pontiac Montana CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-3DB50B2    W0133-1957204  New

Qty:
$88.30
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Pontiac Montana
First Equipment Quality
2005 Pontiac Aztek CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-416138E    W0133-1957206  New

Qty:
$88.20
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • ; Passenger Side
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
2005 - Pontiac Aztek FWD
First Equipment Quality
2009 Pontiac Montana CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-416138E    W0133-1957206  New

Qty:
$88.20
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Pontiac Montana
First Equipment Quality
2005 Pontiac Aztek CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-2C6A136    W0133-1963330  New

Qty:
$86.71
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • ; Passenger Side
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
2005 - Pontiac Aztek AWD
First Equipment Quality
2008 Pontiac G6 CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-23F7EC8    W0133-1921107  New

Qty:
$90.96
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • ; with Enhanced Electronic Shifting (RPO M15)
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2008 - Pontiac G6 SE
First Equipment Quality
2006 Pontiac Torrent CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-458E9CD    W0133-1772439  New

Qty:
$104.91
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Front Right
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Pontiac Torrent
ACDelco
2008 Pontiac G6 CV Axle Assembly ACDelco

P311-24C5513    W0133-1957052  New

Qty:
$459.87
ACDelco CV Axle Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2008 - Pontiac G6 GXP
ACDelco
2008 Pontiac G6 CV Axle Assembly ACDelco

P311-12150D5    W0133-1957051  New

Qty:
$450.41
ACDelco CV Axle Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2008 - Pontiac G6 GXP
First Equipment Quality
2008 Pontiac Torrent CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-4D65637    W0133-1855116  New

Qty:
$82.46
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Front Right
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2008 - Pontiac Torrent GXP
First Equipment Quality
1998 Pontiac Trans Sport CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-5D681EE    W0133-1682900  New

Qty:
$83.19
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Right
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Pontiac Trans Sport

Latest Pontiac Repair and Axle Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Kone on 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP

2002
Pontiac
Grand Prix GTP Supercharged
3800 V-6

My car was jumping and it seemed like the passenger side front wheel was wobbling. So i replaced the cv joint but when i put the new one in, I notice it still had alot of play once inside the transmission.. Could it be the gears??? All assistance is needed Or is this be or is there anyway i could possibly get a diagram??

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

What kind of play? You verify you have the correct axle? Always compare your old axle input shaft to the transmission to your new one. I had one Friday that looked the same but the axle input shaft had a smaller diameter.

Did you check hub bearing for looseness? Axle shafts usually don't cause the wheel to wobble. That is usually a worn out tie rod, control arm bushing, ball joint, or wheel bearing that causes that.

Very important to be sure that your axle nut is tightened to specification (159 ft lbs) because that preloads the hub bearing.

Pontiac Vibe Wheel bearing replacement

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From Roger2561 on Pontiac Vibe Wheel bearing replacement

Hi everyone. I'm new here. I need help with my 2006 Pontiac Vibe AWD 1.8L motor with 61,000 miles on it. The drivers side rear wheel bearing needs replacing. I've worked on many trucks in the past and the brakes usually came apart rather simple. However, I'm having trouble removing the brake drum so I can continue the disassembly process. On the trucks there is a "window" where a special tool is inserted to release the auto adjusting unit. However, I cannot seem to release the auto adjust so i can remove the drum. Any tool I have is for pickup trucks and they simply too big to fit in the access hole. Presumably I'll need a smaller one to fit the car. Once I have the drum off, I'm assuming the brake shoes and associated hardware removes the same as the pick up trucks. Any and all assistance will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help. Roger

Response From Hammer Time

Unless your brake drums are grooved, the drum should slide right off. Sometimes rotating the drum will help. If you have to back off the adjuster, you will have to make a tool to lift the adjusting lever off the teeth to be able to rotate it backwards.It works like a ratchet and only tightens unless the lever is lifted off of it.

Response From Discretesignals


Response From Roger2561

Hammer and Discretesignals; Thanks for the reply.

Hammer - Unfortunately, they do not simply pull off. I have tried to pull them like I did on my pickups but without any luck. I'm assuming I'll have to purchase some kind of tool to fit through the access hole in the backing plate to back off the auto adjuster. I'll check with my parts guy this evening.

Discretesignal; The diagram you provided is a huge help. It shows a slot through which a couple of screwdrivers are placed to manually loosen the auto adjuster. On the Vibe it only has a small hole not much larger than the finger nail on my index finger. I did not find a slot as shown in the diagram. Perhaps I didn't look close enough. I'll have another look this evening.

Gentlemen - If you had your choice of repair manuals to purchase, which would you use? The Haynes or Chilten (I think that's the other one) manuals?

Thanks for your expertise and assistance.

Roger

Response From Discretesignals

If you had your choice of repair manuals to purchase, which would you use? The Haynes or Chilten (I think that's the other one) manuals?

Knowing what I know now, neither. They both are about the same when it comes to content. They are usually vague and have horrible wiring schematics. I'm not a saleman, but if you want good service information subscribe to Alldata DIY and warm up the printer.

Response From Hammer Time

Yep, Alldata all the way.

Response From Roger2561

Okay, I signed on to Alldata DIY and it appears to be a great source of information. Thanks for the tip.

Looking at the description for removal of the rear wheel hub and bearing, it says first to remove the knuckle. Is this the only way to remove the hub or can the hub be removed without removing the knuckle? I understand the ease it provides by removing the knuckle, I'm just curious if it can be done without removing the knuckle. Thanks for your help guys. I appreciate it. Roger

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Maybe this job isn't for you.

You have an AWD vehicle which means there is an axle going through that hub and the hub bolts from the rear. How do you propose you are going to get those bolts out with the axle in place?

Response From Roger2561

Hammer - It's not that I can't do the job - it's rather simple compared to some of the repairs I did on my trucks - I was just curiosity, thats all. Plus, this is a challenge because compared to the trucks, everything on the car is micro so locating things is a bit different. Once I found what I was looking for, the brake drum removed without any effort whatsoever. In the trucks, I was able to sit upright inside the wheel well and have a great view of everything behind the backing plate. That can't be done with the car so I have to adjust. This is my first car I have ever owned, so it's a learning curve for me. Plus, I never turn away from a challenge.

Thanks for the concern and for the help. I appreciate it. Roger

Response From Roger2561

Update - The new rear wheel bearing/hub assembly is in place. It went in much easier than the one that came out. All that remains to be done is re-install the brakes, bleed the system and go for a test ride. That'll happen in the morning.

I want to thank you guys for the assistance with this project. I couldn't have done it without you. Thanks again. Roger

Response From Hammer Time

Glad it worked out.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If need be just get some cheap flat head screw drivers such that two fit in that small hole, bend one to act as a brake spoon for star adjuster and another small one so it can move the lever away (unseen really) such that adjuster can retract instead of only going in ratcheting direction to tighten it more.

If drum is free from hub. If not get that and drum should wiggle but not come off if shoes too tight against a rust ring or area not worn from the shoes.

Avoid plain prying or pullers as backing plate isn't as strong as you might think and can be damaged,

T

Pontiac sunfire knock during accelartion

Showing 8 out of 25 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From jarret83 on Pontiac sunfire knock during accelartion

1995
pontiac
sufire
2.2l (from a 94 cavalier)
about 130k


so me and my grandpa have had a trip with this car. i got it for gas mileage but the original motor was locked up. so we bought a 1994 cavalier and pulled the motor from it. (the sunfire had a nicer body and interior). so for about 3 months i learned alot about changing motors and cuss words haha any way, we used the the cavalier engine and transmission.

after about the first month of driving it, it started knocking to a terrible extent. So we changed the front left cv axle with one from the cavalier(we saved most parts) so that care of it a little so the mext weekend we changed the other one. the knocking is still there. how ever, my grandpa did put 15w 40 oil in and generic spark plugs because it was all free. i have no idea what else could cause it to knock. it only knocks when im accelrating ex: passing someone on the highway, or speeding up in town. but it doesnt knock when im in park or in neutral. only when im in gear. any help would be greatly appreciated, im beginning to stress over this problem, thank you!!!

Response From Hammer Time

and generic spark plugs because it was all free

What is a "generic" spark plug?

Response From jarret83

I should've explained it, like he got them from work for free, he didn't check if they were made for my engine

Response From Hammer Time

WHOOOOO................... big problem. Get them out right away and get the correct Delco plugs and hope they haven't already damaged a piston.

Response From jarret83

That's what I was trying to tell him! Haha but he's my grandpa so ya know, can't argue much

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Spring for the right plugs as just said. No telling what else might be causing "knock" till those unknowns are out. Once warmed up the heavy oil probably isn't the up front issue but that should go too,

T

Response From Discretesignals

I should've explained it, like he got them from work for free, he didn't check if they were made for my engine

"Grandpa, tell me about the good ole days...the day we blew up the engine with the wrong plugs in the drive wayyyyy...Grandpa, my car is making a knocking noise...it sounds like a piston is about to deploy.. Grandpaaaaa tell me about the good oleee dayssssss....

Response From jarret83

Haha I should've added tht my check oil light is on as well

Response From Hammer Time

You gotta be kidding. You forgot to mention that you were driving it with the oil light on?

You need to go back to your bicycle.

Response From jarret83

I'm here for help not for ridicule sir, it just slipped my mind, I've checked the oil and its at operating range

Response From Hammer Time

The omission in your question was your minor screw up. Driving a car with the oil light on is just plain stupid. That is not an oil level light. It's an oil pressure light. Compare oil pressure to your own heartbeat. You can't live without it and neither can your engine. That light is red for a reason. It means immediately stop.

Response From jarret83

Mine isn't red? It says check oil and is orange sometimes it will appear other times will not

Response From Hammer Time

And you're sure it is wrong?

Response From jarret83

Sure what is wrong?

Response From Hammer Time

The light says the car needs oil and you say it does not. Are you sure the light is malfunctioning?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Don't trust those light that mean "check oil" usually amber. I've purposely done oil changes with a quart low and they didn't' work till it was TOO low or not at all!

If (probably) this uses some oil know how many miles and check it by dipstick often AND have the oil with you. The icon (it this uses that) of an oil can means your next ride will be in a tow truck. Shut down at once if that is seen! Oil to an engine is NOT a game!

T

Response From jarret83

this is just a thought but could i possibly have a broken/ incorrectly installed motor mount putting to much stress on the left side cv axle?? i'll attach of photo of how the enginge sits https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui=2&ik=61b8728617&view=att&th=13d41d99d9b02a0c&attid=0.1&disp=thd&zw notice how it leans down toward the left wheel, is this normal??? thank you

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

There is no picture there.

Does this noise only occur when the car is moving?

Response From jarret83

yes it only does it when i moveC:\Users\Leah\Desktop\photo.JPG

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, it could be the axles hitting something.

Your pictures are not coming out. You have to upload them to a photo hosting site like Photobucket and they will supply a link to post here that will make the picture appear.

Response From jarret83

i think i got it now lol

Response From Hammer Time

That motor definitely fell down. You need to have the motor mounts checked and find out what is hitting.

Response From jarret83

thats what i thought! i think the bracket on the transmisson connecting it to a mount is making it fall like that hitting the axle

Response From speed

15w40 is pretty heavy oil especially for such a small motor, try an oil change with 5w30 or 10w30 and inspect the oil you drain for metal shavings, i suspect whats happening is in park or neutral theres significantly less load on the engine ut when your accelerating theres enough load that the oil pump cannot pump the oil where it needs to be because kt is so thick, you may have already done enough damage that changing the oil wont fix it as well.

Response From jarret83

even if i have done damage thank you so much for the help/ reply!!! it is extremely appreciated if this fixes i will reply back again. thanks again!!

Pontiac Montana 2001 automatic shift speed sensor

Showing 2 out of 16 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From Floodbar on Pontiac Montana 2001 automatic shift speed sensor

Pontiac Montana
Year 2001
I don't know the size of the engine


The other day my speedometer started to bounce all over the place. Did some research and found that the vehicle speed control sensor needed to be replaced. Easy enough, its right behind the passenger side tire. Well the problem didn't go away. Checked back with the auto store and they said there was another sensor that could cause this. I had them give me the new sensor and replace the vehicle speed control sensor to be sure it wasn't bad. My issue is i cannot find where the automatic shift speed sensor goes. I even took it to a local shop here and we all looked for an hour and couldn't find it. Does any one know or have a picture of where it goes?

Response From Discretesignals



The vehicle speed sensor (10) is in the transaxle's final drive cover on the passenger's side.


Response From Floodbar

Thank you for the pic. Do you k ow the best way to get to that sensor? From the front of the car, from under the car, or where? I went out and looked for the front of the transmission and didn't see it. Is it an external piece or do i have to remove some of the transmission to get to it? I appreciate any assistance.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

You should be able to get to it from the wheel well on the passengers side after you remove the panel. Follow the right side CV axle to where it plugs into the transaxle and that is the final drive case. It is located near the top of the cover. It is in a tight spot and it held into the final drive case with one bolt.

Response From Floodbar

That souns like the vehicle speed control sensor. I have found that one and now able to replace it quickly. I am trying to replace the automatic shift speed sensor. In the pc above it appears to be part 440 but it looks like it would be on the drivers side on the top of the transmission. However, looking on the car i cannot find it. I may be wrong as i am a computer tech not a car guy. So please forgive me for my ignorance if it is in the spot you say.

Response From Discretesignals

(440) is the input speed sensor. It is inside the transaxle. The engine controller uses the input speed sensor for calculating gear ratio and TCC slip speed. It has nothing to do with the speedometer.

The VSS (10) is the sensor that sends a vehicle speed signal to the engine controller. The engine controller communicates with the instrument cluster module (IPM) over a data bus. The PCM sends vehicle speed information over the bus to the IPM. The IPM uses this information to operate the speedometer motor.

Usually if you have a speed sensor problem, the check engine light will come on because the PCM isn't seeing the speed sensor signal or a corrupted signal, so it sets a vehicle speed sensor trouble code.

Response From Floodbar

Makes since. So only the vehicle control sensor would cause the issue with a speedometer all over the place? By all over the place i mean i am doing 70 mph and the speedometer says i am doing 30 then 70 then 48. It just bounces and will not let me use the cruise and from what i have read the abs is also out. I replaced that sensor twice and orielys sold me the automatic shift speed sensor and told me that could also cause the issue. Looks about as easy to replace as the other one i replaced. It has one wire harness attach and one bolt that hold it in. Any ideals? Or just take back the sensor?

Response From Floodbar

I don't know if this will help any but the receipt from orielys says its part number bwd s8204 transmission speed sensor. I only assumed that part 440 was the one i needed because its the only sensor that looks close to the one i have in the picture above but it doesn't look exactly like that.

Response From Discretesignals

It is possible the speed sensor isn't the culprit. Just because you read somewhere that a speed sensor replacement solved a problem, doesn't necessary mean it will solve your problem.

To be able to diagnose and fix this problem without chasing a bunch of ghosts you need some data. You have a few options.

(1) You get hold of an enhanced scan tool and monitor the datastream for the PCM and the IPM. Watch the VSS PID and see if data is showing correctly for the vehicle's speed. Also check for any trouble codes that may be stored and are related to your problem. If you have bidirectional control at the IPM, you can do a gauge sweep test to be sure the processor is controlling the gauge motors.

(2) Grab a graphing multimeter or labscope and wiring diagram and measure the signal from the speed sensor at the PCM connector. That would tell you if the signal is good from the sensor, but you wouldn't be able to see what happens after the PCM because it becomes digitized and sent over a data bus unless you know how to interpret data bus transmissions.

(3) Take it to a shop that has the equipment, information, and knowledge to diagnose a problem like that. Pay a tech to diag it, then you have the choice of resolving the problem yourself or letting the shop handle it.

Response From Floodbar

Thank for your help discretesignals. I will most likely take it to a shop. Someone said that their were two sensors that could cause my problem. Was able to find one was just trying to replace the other as well. Sometimes cheaper. To marinegrunt, not much of a forum user so i am unsure how to post a pic.

Response From Hammer Time

As you were already informed, the input speed sensor has absolutely nothing to do with the speedometer. Just because some kid behind a parts counter wanted to sell something, doesn't make him right.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Pic posting: Use something site like Photobucket or find the exact pic and just copy and paste. If for just a part try a popular parts place/chain and copy that pic................ T

Response From Floodbar

I took the car in to the shop today. 20 minutes and 10 dollars later my car is fixed. Turned out the sensor that i had replaced did fix the car but it needed the codes cleared. So one more trip to orielys to take back the mystery sensor. I thank you all for your help.

Response From Discretesignals

Good to read that your problem is resolved. Interesting a trouble codes set would stop the speedo from working. Have to remember that. Thanks for the follow up.

Closed as solved. Can be reopened upon request by the OP.

Response From MarineGrunt

My local GM dealership will diagnose a problem for $45. Of course, they try and talk you into having them repair it right there and say it will only take then a half hour but as DS said, it's your choice. From what I've heard, $45 is pretty cheap so it may not be the same price in your area. It's normally cheaper if you stay away from the dealerships. I just took it there because I thought $45 was a very fair price.

Not saying I'm right because I'm usually not but the first thing that popped in my head was a bad instrument cluster. You can't go guessing on parts though because you end up spending 10 times as much as if you just took it to a shop.

For future reference, in order to post a picture, you have to use a photo hosting site such as photobucket. You create an account, upload the picture, and then click on the image code. You will see where it says image code on the bottom right of the page. When you click on it it will copy it. You then come on here and starting typing your reply. When you are ready to post your picture you right click and then click paste. That copies the image code on your post and it will then show up when you submit your post.

Response From MarineGrunt

Can you take a picture of the sensor you have and post it?