Shop Discount Axles

Dan and I must have been replying at the same time. He had some great pics/diagrams and had I seen his post would have left it alone as that was great info.

Good luck with the fix,

T

Finding the cause of the wobble like this, is a process of elimination. First make sure that the tire has not become deformed due to a belt separation. If a steel belt inside the tire has torn it will cause the tire to warp and not run true.
If the tire is ok, check that the steel wheel (rim) is not bent. Here at the shop we would put the tire and rim on our balancing machine to check if they were running true. You could just switch the wheel left to right and see if the wobble follows the wheel to the other side.
The next thing to check would be for a bent axle shaft; the portion of the axle where the wheel would attach (hub) is not turning true to the shaft portion that attaches to the differential.
With the wheel & brake drum removed; spin the hub and see if it’s running (turning) true (strait). 1/32 of an inch wobble at the hub could easily add up to an inch of wobble at the wheel.
The red box in the picture is the hub portion of the axle; the blue oval is where they would usually bend. There really isn’t a repair for a bent axle; it usually means replacing.

Dan.

Rule out the obvious first. Wheel tight? Put wheel on a known good one and spin it to see if wheel itself is the issue.

It would take a pretty hard side slam into the wheel and IMO the wheel would be the weak link but if it did bend the flange end of the axle you would have to replace it. If this has a VERY rusted brake drum, sometimes rust flakes will fall down if wheel is even removed for any reason such that the drum can no longer sit flush on the hub of the axle. Common her in RustoChusetts!

At the age if it is the axle you can probably get a used one. I'd bring old one to match it up. Pretty sure this axle removes from taking cover off (gear oil will spill out) look for holding bolt and when pushed a tad towards center (the axle) it will reveal a "C" shaped retainer that locks it in. IF YOU GO THERE - DON'T TURN ANYTHING with axle removed - JUST CAREFULLY REMOVE AXLE!

I think the axle is the bearing race for the vintage. Can't be sure if just mentioned is correct or not as a wagon, loaded up with toys like that could have a special order rear differential for towing, limited slip and not be typical to most so bring old one and if I'm right about axle being the race for bearing the replacement needs to be perfectly clean and clear or you'll be back again,

T

Thank you very much for your reply, and you understood my problem even without the pictures. I didn't have a slide hammer (but I now at least know what one is :) ), but I ended up getting it out with some persistence with the pry bar and a hammer. Your reply told me I wasn't necessarily doing anything wrong....just needed to try some additional ways of applying force. Now got the new one in (that was kind of difficult to fit in also, but I managed) and the vibrations that prompted this repair are gone.

I really appreciate your help, this is actually the first repair I've done myself and am amazed I got it done!

Something that often makes it come out easier is to use 2 pry bars at the same time, one on each side. That make it come out straighter with less binding or jamming of the lock clip.

Thanks for the info, it's just that im prying so hard that its chipping the tranny and dinging it up preaty good with out any luck in coming out, is there a better tool then a crowbar thanks.

Just a hard, steady, pry won't do it. You'll end up breaking the alluminum transmission housing. Give it a hard, quick, snap. May take several tries. There is a tool that is designed to go up, and behind, the hub that you can attach a slide hammer to, but a bit expensive for the DIYer. Might be cheaper in the long run to pay someone to do it.

tHANKS I'LL TRY THAT