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First Equipment Quality
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First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
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2007 - Lincoln Navigator
First Equipment Quality
2010 Ford F-150 CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-40E20A5    New

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$90.56
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • w/o Hill Descent Control
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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2010 - Ford F-150
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$92.50
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
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2007 - Lincoln Navigator
First Equipment Quality
2010 Ford F-150 CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-4CC8FF3    New

Qty:
$92.50
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • w/o Hill Descent Control
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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2010 - Ford F-150
First Equipment Quality
2008 Ford Taurus CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-2E4D64F    New

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$98.06
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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2008 - Ford Taurus
First Equipment Quality
2014 Ford Taurus CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-2E4D64F    New

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First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • To 01/22/2014
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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2014 - Ford Taurus
First Equipment Quality
2009 Ford Flex CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-2E4D64F    New

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$98.06
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • Production: -08/03/2008
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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2009 - Ford Flex
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$82.85
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • Axle is complete with shaft since often times the axle and shaft adhere to each end and are difficult to separate.
  • Front - Right
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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2002 - Jaguar X-Type
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$66.70
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • Axle is complete with shaft since often times the axle and shaft adhere to each end and are difficult to separate.
  • Front - Left
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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2002 - Jaguar X-Type
First Equipment Quality
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$58.21
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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1999 - Mazda Protege
First Equipment Quality
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First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • Front - Right
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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2000 - Mazda Protege
First Equipment Quality
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$73.36
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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1999 - Mazda Protege
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First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • Front - Left
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1999 - Mazda Protege
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First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • Left
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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1994 - Mazda Protege
First Equipment Quality
2002 Mazda MPV CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-566BCA2    New

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First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • Front Left
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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2002 - Mazda MPV
First Equipment Quality
1992 Mazda MX-3 CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-0CCD0FF    New

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$59.07
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • Right
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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1992 - Mazda MX-3
EMPI/Empire
1992 Mazda MX-3 CV Axle Assembly EMPI/Empire

P311-5C86D5B    New

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$85.51
EMPI/Empire CV Axle Assembly
  • Right
Brand: EMPI/Empire
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1992 - Mazda MX-3
First Equipment Quality
1993 Mazda MX-3 CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-0CCD0FF    New

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First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
1993 - Mazda MX-3
First Equipment Quality
Qty:
$59.07
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • Federal - w/o Intermediate Shaft = 36"
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
1997 - Mazda Protege
EMPI/Empire
1997 Mazda Protege CV Axle Assembly EMPI/Empire

P311-5C86D5B    New

Qty:
$85.51
EMPI/Empire CV Axle Assembly
  • Federal - w/o Intermediate Shaft = 36"
  • Right
Brand: EMPI/Empire
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1997 - Mazda Protege

Latest Axle Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

camero axles

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From Guest on camero axles

can you run 1975 camero axles on a 1975 nova, (even though they are 1/2" longer)?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Stretching my memory but I think GM used the axle as the race for the bearing and that would be a stopper right there. That would have to be perfect, T

Response From Guest

no those axles will not work

'83 caprice classic rear axle

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From 67eleanor on '83 caprice classic rear axle

Hey,
I own 1983 CHEVROLET CAPRICE CLASSIC 4DEstateWagon V8-305ci 5.0L 4 BBL Vin H #3165, 4speed automatic over drive transmission 350.
My rear axle passenger side, spin in a bent shape, when the car in park the tire is in straight shape, but when i drive my car its spin in curve shape like image below, why its spin like this.
I want to rebuild it and see what the problem, if there is any book with pictures tips or a computer program can help me, please tell me about it.

Response From 67eleanor Top Rated Answer

Thank you Tom Greenleaf u the one answer my questions and thank u 2 DanD .
My wheel and rim are good the problem is from the axle, there is some picture with more details in how I remove the old axle and install the new one, its first time I do this thing.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Dan and I must have been replying at the same time. He had some great pics/diagrams and had I seen his post would have left it alone as that was great info.

Good luck with the fix,

T

Response From DanD

Finding the cause of the wobble like this, is a process of elimination. First make sure that the tire has not become deformed due to a belt separation. If a steel belt inside the tire has torn it will cause the tire to warp and not run true.
If the tire is ok, check that the steel wheel (rim) is not bent. Here at the shop we would put the tire and rim on our balancing machine to check if they were running true. You could just switch the wheel left to right and see if the wobble follows the wheel to the other side.
The next thing to check would be for a bent axle shaft; the portion of the axle where the wheel would attach (hub) is not turning true to the shaft portion that attaches to the differential.
With the wheel & brake drum removed; spin the hub and see if it’s running (turning) true (strait). 1/32 of an inch wobble at the hub could easily add up to an inch of wobble at the wheel.
The red box in the picture is the hub portion of the axle; the blue oval is where they would usually bend. There really isn’t a repair for a bent axle; it usually means replacing.

Dan.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Rule out the obvious first. Wheel tight? Put wheel on a known good one and spin it to see if wheel itself is the issue.

It would take a pretty hard side slam into the wheel and IMO the wheel would be the weak link but if it did bend the flange end of the axle you would have to replace it. If this has a VERY rusted brake drum, sometimes rust flakes will fall down if wheel is even removed for any reason such that the drum can no longer sit flush on the hub of the axle. Common her in RustoChusetts!

At the age if it is the axle you can probably get a used one. I'd bring old one to match it up. Pretty sure this axle removes from taking cover off (gear oil will spill out) look for holding bolt and when pushed a tad towards center (the axle) it will reveal a "C" shaped retainer that locks it in. IF YOU GO THERE - DON'T TURN ANYTHING with axle removed - JUST CAREFULLY REMOVE AXLE!

I think the axle is the bearing race for the vintage. Can't be sure if just mentioned is correct or not as a wagon, loaded up with toys like that could have a special order rear differential for towing, limited slip and not be typical to most so bring old one and if I'm right about axle being the race for bearing the replacement needs to be perfectly clean and clear or you'll be back again,

T

2004 subaru forester cv axle

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From lesliemw on 2004 subaru forester cv axle

I am trying to replace the front passenger side CV axle on 2004 subaru forester. The old one broke while I was removing it, and there is a piece remaining in the car where the axle enters the engine. I'm not sure how to get it out, and this is what I need help with. I have the new one and I can see the piece that is stuck is held in with a retaining clip....it's a thin c-shaped ring that fits into a groove at the end of the axle. I'm attached pictures of the piece I'm having trouble removing. One pic shows from wheel level looking in; the other shows from top down through the hood. I've tried using a pry bar between the piece and the engine, but it's not working.

Any advice on how to remove this piece?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Can't see your pic. Do you mean the inboard CV axle housing is still plugged into the transmission? If that is so, you must have removed the rest of the axle shaft and joint.

I've had success getting those stubborn ones out by clamping a set of big vise grips onto the edge of the housing. Then take a slide hammer with a hook on the end and connect it over the vise grip jaws. The housing should pop right off with a slap of the slide hammer.


Response From lesliemw

Thank you very much for your reply, and you understood my problem even without the pictures. I didn't have a slide hammer (but I now at least know what one is :) ), but I ended up getting it out with some persistence with the pry bar and a hammer. Your reply told me I wasn't necessarily doing anything wrong....just needed to try some additional ways of applying force. Now got the new one in (that was kind of difficult to fit in also, but I managed) and the vibrations that prompted this repair are gone.

I really appreciate your help, this is actually the first repair I've done myself and am amazed I got it done!

Response From Hammer Time

Something that often makes it come out easier is to use 2 pry bars at the same time, one on each side. That make it come out straighter with less binding or jamming of the lock clip.

1994 kea front axle wont come out

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From hicup on 1994 kea front axle wont come out

ive been looking to try and find info on how to take the axle out can anyone help me i heard it just snaps in and out but ive been prying on it and its not coming out anyhelp will be great thanks 1994 kia front left axle

Response From dmac0923 Top Rated Answer

Im assuming that youve seperated the axle from the hub assemble first right???? other wise yes once the axle/hub assembly are separated, the axle will just pop out of the transmission. its held in there by a snap/retaining ring in a grove on the axle itself.

Response From hicup

Thanks for the info, it's just that im prying so hard that its chipping the tranny and dinging it up preaty good with out any luck in coming out, is there a better tool then a crowbar thanks.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Just a hard, steady, pry won't do it. You'll end up breaking the alluminum transmission housing. Give it a hard, quick, snap. May take several tries. There is a tool that is designed to go up, and behind, the hub that you can attach a slide hammer to, but a bit expensive for the DIYer. Might be cheaper in the long run to pay someone to do it.

Response From Guest

tHANKS I'LL TRY THAT

Axle removal

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From sdbout on Axle removal

Have a 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 - 4WD with positraction, I need to remove rear axle and want to know if I need to take the pin from the differential or can I just use a puller to pull axle off? Any help would be appreciated.
Scott

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

You need to remove the pin from the carrier. There is a C clip that holds the axle in place. You need to push the axle in toward the middle to remove the clip.