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First Equipment Quality
2005 Mazda 3 CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-508B9B8    W0133-2237096  New

Qty:
$83.98
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Production: 01/05/2005-
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission Prod. Date Range
2005 - Mazda 3 i Automatic Fr:01-05-05
First Equipment Quality
2006 Mazda 3 CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-508B9B8    W0133-2237096  New

Qty:
$83.98
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission
2006 - Mazda 3 i Automatic
First Equipment Quality
2004 Mazda 3 CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-041B39F    W0133-2034098  New

Qty:
$85.20
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Front - Left
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission
2004 - Mazda 3 GS Manual
First Equipment Quality
2004 Mazda 3 CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-041B39F    W0133-2034098  New

Qty:
$85.20
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • with Early Design, Axle Bolt
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission
2004 - Mazda 3 i Manual
First Equipment Quality
2004 Mazda 3 CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-041B39F    W0133-2034098  New

Qty:
$85.20
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission
2004 - Mazda 3 i Manual
First Equipment Quality
2005 Mazda 3 CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-041B39F    W0133-2034098  New

Qty:
$85.20
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Production: -01/05/2005
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission Prod. Date Range
2005 - Mazda 3 i Manual To:01-05-05
First Equipment Quality
2005 Mazda 3 CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-2356603    W0133-2090292  New

Qty:
$84.88
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Production: 01/05/2005-
  • with Late Design, Axle Nut
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission Prod. Date Range
2005 - Mazda 3 SP23 Automatic Fr:01-05-05
First Equipment Quality
2006 Mazda 5 CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality - OBJ retained by nut.

P311-314852E    W0133-2237100  New

Qty:
$109.34
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Production: -12/2005
  • OBJ retained by nut.
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Prod. Date Range
2006 - Mazda 5 Manual To:12-00-05
First Equipment Quality
2006 Mazda 5 CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality - OBJ retained by nut.

P311-314852E    W0133-2237100  New

Qty:
$109.34
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Production: 01/2006-
  • OBJ retained by nut.
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Prod. Date Range
2006 - Mazda 5 Manual Fr:01-00-06
First Equipment Quality
2009 Mazda 3 CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality - OBJ retained by nut.

P311-314852E    W0133-2237100  New

Qty:
$109.34
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • OBJ retained by nut.
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission
2009 - Mazda 3 i Manual

Latest Mazda Repair and Axle Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

97 Mazda Protege LX: Tip of CV Axle Shaft broken off inside transaxle

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From dhuber37 on 97 Mazda Protege LX: Tip of CV Axle Shaft broken off inside transaxle

I have a 1997 Mazda Protege LX, 1.5 engine, 187,000 miles, with manual transmission. A few weeks after replacing the driver's side cv axle, my car broke down on the road. The tip of the inner shaft of the new cv axle sheared off into the transaxle. This piece of metal is about 1/4" thick and is sitting at the bottom of the transaxle casing right next to the drain plug. It's right where I can see it! The only problem is that the piece of metal is too big to fit through the drain.

I'm looking for an option that lets me remove the piece through the drain. Anyone have experience with this? I would like to find a tool or some other way of breaking or snipping the piece in half so it can be pulled out without removing the whole transmission and taking it apart.

My step-father recommended drilling out the drain hole to make it wider and tapping it with new threads and a wider plug. I don't know what this could do to the casing (maybe crack it?) considering the drain is alongside a seam in the casing. His other option was replacing the entire transmission with a used one he found for $250.

Response From Sidom

Why not just get a flexable magnet or a pair of mechaniclal fingers & just take the piece out the output shaft hole?

You don't want to drillout the hole, that's not even an option

Response From Discretesignals

Yes, you need to get that out of there. Even if that means you would have to dismantle the transmission to get at it. If that piece gets into the final drive while your driving, you'll be in big trouble.

Response From chickenhouse

I wonder if it would hurt anything if left in there? Let's hear from some trans guys!

Response From dhuber37 Top Rated Answer

I was wondering about that as well. I replaced the old drain plug with one of those magnetic plugs with the hope that the metal piece would stay put. What I noticed though, was that the gears inside seem fairly close to the drain. There may not be enough clearance between the gears and the inner walls of the transaxle so that the metal doesn't get pulled into the gears. The transmission fluid may make it worse causing the piece to slide around.

scary metal popping sound from rear axle area

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From vieques on scary metal popping sound from rear axle area

1997
Mazda
B3000
3.0; manual transmission
150K+

it began as a slight metalic pop when I would make a left turn; the sound seemed to be located near the rear driver side axle area. In my journey to town and back home the popping became progressively worse, especially when slowly driving uphill and to the left, but by the end of the drive, even a slight turn or shift would result in some popping. By the time I had returned home, the popping was inhibiting my pickup from advancing forward, a violent jerking back and forth action until I was through the turn, driving forward, and fully engaged in 1st gear. The last turn was nothing short of terrifying. I felt lucky to be back home without something in the backend being destroyed or dragging.

I've looked under the pickup and see nothing cracked or broken, but it's not everyday that I inspect the rear axle.

I live on a small island with less than 10K people and probably less than 10 mechanics. Many rough roads, plenty of wear and tear on suspension system. A functioning vehicle is worth more than gold here.

-ARC drive axle?
-CVU/CV axle?
-rear differential?

I am a novice that needs help. Please let me know if there is any other info that I could include that would help troubleshoot.

Your help would be greatly appreciated.

Sincerely,
Ryan

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Ryan; Your description sounds like an internal differential problem. At first, I was thinking u-joint or axle bearing, but as I read further.......
If it is an internal diff. problem, this can be dangerous if it locks up on you at even low speeds. I must say, though, I don't think I've ever run into a Mazda diff. problem before. Have it inspected right away. You may even want to have it towed, just to be safe.

Response From vieques

Many thanks Loren. I had contemplated getting towed to the shop and will definitely do so now. I'll will let you know how all turns out for future reference, especially if this is uncommon for mazda pickups.

best regards,
ryan

Pinging

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From milling machine on Pinging

I have a 2000 nissan maxima it has slight pinging only when going up the steepest hills other than that it runs excellent. This same problem happened about 4 or 5 yrs ago and changing the MAF solved the problem

I get only about 2 volts on snap throttle using the scope I think I should get something close to 4 volts but I am not sure--also the factory service manual says the MAF should be putting out about 14.1 gm/sec at about 3,000 rpm on the scanner the best I can get is about 10 gm/sec--Do you think changing the MAF again would solve the problem--the only other thing that is wrong with it is that it seems to have high fuel pressure the manual says-- 34 psi at idle and about 43 with the regulator hose off
I get about 48 psi at idle and about 56 psi with the regulator hose off but I do not think this would be related to the pinging problem anyways--it is probably a bad pressure regulator

Response From nickwarner

Are you running a K&N filter or any other type of oiled filter? Have you tried cleaning the MAF? Have you verified with certainty that there are no rips or leaks in the air ducting post-MAF and the engine doesn't have any vac leaks?

Response From milling machine

I have not cleaned the egr passages but I will have to also it just uses the normal air filter I will have to double check for vacuum leaks although I do not think there are any-the fuel pressure gauge is correct I know the pressures do seem strange but that is what they are.
Also the vehicle has over a 165,000 miles on it-it might possibly be carboned up pistons I will have to check for high compression

I have not tried to clean the MAF sensor I will tomorrow and put it back on the scope to see if it makes a difference

Response From milling machine

I went and checked the ducting like one of you suggested and found the large black ducting after the MAF sensor to be all cracked up
it was difficult to tell until you pulled on it then you could easily see the cracks-it must have been allowing un-metered air in

Response From nickwarner

Glad you found it. EGR flow is worth checking on too, as HT had suggested. Loss of EGR flow will cause pinging under load.

Did fixing the ducting get rid of the issue?

Response From milling machine

I will check it tomorrow with the scope and see if changing the ducting made a difference-I am sure it will because the ducting was completely cracked all around--but I now have another problem while changing the brakes I discovered a broken boot on the cv joint

It is the driver side joint--the service manual says you cannot remove it unless you first remove the right side one--does anyone know if it is possible to remove the driver side cv axle without taking out the right side one--this is a 2000 nissan maxima automatic trans

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

It shouldn't be a problem.......Some cars getting a good spot to pop the left axle out is limited but you should have any trouble with this.

For real tight ones s/o makes a tool to help remove those that requires the r axle to be removed but the only ones I've ever needed to do that on were Mazdas & Ford Escorts (with the same Mazda design)...

I'm not sure what route you are going but I would go with a new axle,,,,the prices on the axles have really come down & it makes the job a lot easier and both joints are new with new boots

Response From milling machine

Thanks for the answers

Response From Sidom

No problem.....I'm sure/hope you read thru my typo..........you shouldn't have any trouble with this......

Response From milling machine

Yes I understood your typo--also I said I would report on how the repair came out
the maf improved from about 10gm/sec to about 13gm/sec by just changing the maf boot but the scope reading stayed the same on snap throttle at about 2 volts the factor service manual says it should get to about 3.8 volts but this might be for a new one--the pinging seems to have went away though--also I do not think this maxima has a maf burn off system but I am not sure

Response From Hammer Time

No, you shouldn't have to remove the other side for anything.

Response From Hammer Time

Are you sure your fuel pressure gauge is right. That is very uncommon.

Check you EGR system carefully and make sure the passage isn't restricting flow.

1990 mazda miata

Showing 2 out of 20 Posts | Show 18 Hidden Posts
Question From doanuts on 1990 mazda miata

I need help. My 1990 mazda miata check engine light comes on while driving then when i let off the gas it goes away

Response From Sidom

Have codes read & come back & post the numbers.....Most parts stores will do this for free

Response From doanuts

The engine light doesnt stay on will it still show a code if the lights not on? It only comes on while driving. But i let off on the gas pedal and the engine light turns off. This happens time to time and sometimes multiple times while driving. Iv never owned a miata and jus bought this one a couple days ago. The speedo says 390,xxxmiles but the engine dont look like thats on it or even the car itself

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, the code should be stored in memory but you may have to pay a shop to do that one since it's OBD1.

Response From doanuts

Ok sweet thanks ill get back with the codes if they dont kno what it is.. do you know what the ticking noise in the top end might be? It isnt always there is comes and goes too

Response From Hammer Time

You'll have to make it louder. I can't hear it.

Response From Discretesignals

That one you can retrieve trouble codes without a scan tool. There is a diagnostic connector under the hood. Jumper TEN and GND together in the terminal and turn the ignition on. The check engine light will flash the code(s) in two digit format.



Ticking noise could be from the valve train. The hydraulic lash adjusters (HLA) are supposed to take up the play in the valve train as things wear. With the mileage the valve train is probably worn out or you could have HLA problems. Change the oil and make sure you use the correct viscosity (10W-30) to see if that helps.

Response From Discretesignals

Code 12 means the engine computer detected an open or short in the throttle position sensor circuit.

This means you need to monitor the throttle position sensor voltage to see if you have a defective TPS, a wiring problem, or a computer issue.

To check the throttle position sensor, you need to use a volt/ohm meter.

This video goes over TPS diagnosing. The TPS operation is the same on most vehicles.


Response From doanuts

I wud like to know if fuel injector number four, cracked and flooding piston four, would also make piston number 2 not work

Response From Discretesignals

You have too many threads open on this vehicle for the same problem. We are telling you what to test and your not giving us any feedback. With the other threads, your making it confusing and leaving other hanging in the wind. Please keep it in the same thread.

Link to another open thread:

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Engine_Troubles_F16/Re%3A_1990_mazda_miata_P104227/gforum.cgi?do=post_unstick;redo=post_view_flat;so=ASC;sb=post_latest_reply;root_id=104035;post=104035;t=search_engine

Response From doanuts

Sorry m jus getting use to this site and m kida comfused myself.. i dont have access to an ohmeter can u use one in autozone? Sorry fer the comfusion i jus bought this car m jus tryn ta figure out what is goi. O. With it. And need to learn this site better. Thank you for your help if u have an answer to the last question ill only post on this one link. Can u delete one after youve posted it?

Response From Discretesignals

Is that what happened? You have a leaking injector on #4? Did you see if the regulator is leaking?

Is #2 cylinder flooded also?

Response From doanuts

I did test with tube from intake manifold off nothing squirted anywher from the regulator. Yes i pulled all plugs and plug 2and 4 wer wet with gas the others were dry. When i pulled all the injectors out the one for piston/plug 4 was cracked on the end. Injector 2 had a scratch idk if its a crack. So 2/4 are getting flooded 1/3 are fine and still igniting. I checked for spark from the coil pack and it was good.

Response From Discretesignals

I don't think that a cracked injector in #4 would flood out #2, so it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace them both.

In fact, if you have the money, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace all four injectors just in case #1 & 3 let loose later.

If the injectors were leaking fuel into the cylinders, its possible that those two cylinder could be washed out. That means they may have no compression, so you'll have to squirt a little bit of oil in those cylinders to get the compression to come back up while cranking the engine with the plugs removed, all injector connectors unplugged, and coil unplugged.

You don't want gas or spark going on while your trying to restore compression while cranking the engine.

Response From doanuts

Yes hopefully this is the only problem i had ordered some racing injectors all four

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Shane: I suggest staying OE for replacement parts or could confuse the fix - not certain but may open Pandora's box requiring other alterations to accommodate doing that. Yes it's now an old car but not old enough IMO to fool with things aftermarket, performance or other things,

T

Response From doanuts

Hey guys i have two questions..1 is when i put cold air intake what happens with the mas air flow sensor plug thats pluged into the stock intake box? What do i do with it and with it not pluged in what will it do?.....2nd i need new wheel bearings in front my car is the 1990 base model, does it have ABS? the bearings i found come together with lugnut bolt hub assembly i need to know wether my car has abs or not....thank you!!

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

You need the MAF sensor, the engine won't right without it....If that kit is for that model, there should be a way to mount it in to your new system. That part can't be eliminated.

For your wheel bearing, just look at the dash. There should be an ABS light that comes on for a few seconds & then goes out when the car is started..... Or you could just look at the hub assembly, see it there is a sensor with a wire going to it, also there should be an tone ring on the axle....

If you have any issues with the bearing start a new thread......

So what was the final outcome with the running problem??? Did you get it fixed??? What did you do???

Response From doanuts

Thank you. Ther was a cracked fuel injector and the wire harness for the fuel injectors was bad. As for the white smoke i had changed the oil and put the 5 litter oil change jug into the engine when the engine only takes 3.2 litters off oil. Changed oil again runs great. Still havent figured out the check engine. It blinks once then twice im taking that as a 12 but anywhere i go they cant figure out what it is.

Response From doanuts

I did the thkng and it blinked once then twiceso m guessin thats a 12 and the book at auto zone said it doesnt apply to my car

97 Mazda B4000 4wd Issue

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From dmelvin on 97 Mazda B4000 4wd Issue

Greetings,
So this winter I discovered to my dismay that my 4wd would only randomly work on my Mazda truck. Off and on I would turn the switch to the 4wd position and it would the vast majority of the time have the vehicle remain in 2wd. Any input on this issue would be vastly appreciated; my initial thoughts go towards a leak in the vacuum line.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I believe that your truck doesn't use vacuum to engage the front end. The Ford Ranger and Mazda of that year had the automatic locking hub system that would engage the front axles to the hubs when the transfer case applied torque to the front drive shaft. Often times on those the locking hub on one side would grind or not engage causing no four wheel drive.

Does your transfer case lock the front drive shaft to the rear drive shaft when the four wheel drive doesn't work?

If the transfer case motor runs and the transfer case locks the front and rear drive shafts together, but you still don't have 4wd, you need to inspect the hubs.

If the drive shaft doesn't lock, you either have a mechanical problem in the transfer case or an electrical problem with the transfer case shift system. The GEM controls the functions of the 4wd and does store codes if there is a problem in the system. You may need to have the GEM scanned if you find that you have an electrical issue.

Response From dmelvin

Okay Ill try to check tomorrow and get back to you on your questions, thanks for the initial input