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Hummer H2 with loud clunking noise! (with video)

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Question From jimfromchile on Hummer H2 with loud clunking noise! (with video)

Hello everyone!


Well this started just two days ago... I was driving my 2003 Hummer H2 when all a sudden when turning this horrific loud clunk noise started to occur when I turn, it doesn't matter if I turn right or left it makes this noise. Immediately I thought it was the power steering fluid, so I checked and of course it did not have any... so I refilled it and fixed the leak. But even so it makes that awful noise any ideas on what it can be?

I live in Chile here in south america and also in a small town, going to a dealer is not an option. So please help?

Response From Hammer Time

Is that coming from the rear or the front?

Response From jimfromchile

Its from the front, I can kinda feel a small vibration coming from the center of the engine or underneath center of the dash

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You need to get it u[p in the air and inspected. It sounds like a drive axle binding or hitting something.

Oil is Leaking After CV Axle & Seal replacement

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Question From spins06 on Oil is Leaking After CV Axle & Seal replacement

Hello guys!

I need your advice: I own Sienna 1998 (VIN WUO21575) and after front driver`s side CV Axle and Seal replacement transmission fluid is leaking from the place where Axle goes into Differential. What could be the reason of that problem?


Response From Hammer Time

It means he damaged the seal while installing the axle. Bring it back to them and tell them they need to repair at no charge.

Response From spins06

Probably, I understand what could be a reason. When the first guy took off new axle from differential to replace the seal, he used a fork (like tie rods separator fork) and he damaged space on the axle where the seal installed. Here are the pictures:





You can see very thin like a ring (or nest) on axle where seal goes. Now that ring is bended - I marked it with red.

Could it be the reason of leaking?

Response From Sidom

That area you have mark is more of a dust shield, to keep dirt out of the seal area........The seal for the oil rides on the hub area in front of that marked area....
If a new seal was installed with the axle, I would guess he damaged the seal installing it.....That shield should to be straightened or removed though before installing a new seal.....

Response From spins06 Top Rated Answer

Can you see on picture that Seal has two parts - with small diameter and larger diameter. The part with a small diameter should be completely inside that nest for dust, and that nest push the Seal into differential. But now I think it`s now completely inside and because nest is damaged it doesn`t push the seal to differential.

Is it really easy to damage that Seal, because the rubber is quite thick. And guy installed seal with a special tool for seals (beat with a hummer)

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, it's very easy do damage it when installing it of installing the axle. If the seal is leaking and if the case is not cracked,then the seal is damaged.

Response From spins06

I understand, thanks! Does that damaged nest plays the role?

Could you give me any advices how to take off that axle, because it is very difficult to take it off.

Response From Hammer Time

Why are you trying to take it out? If someone else installed this axle, then it's their problem and if you mess with that, they can refuse to cover it.
That ring is just a sling shield and it prevent road debris from getting into the seal.

Response From spins06

The guy who did it is not very experienced I suppose, he did it in his house. I went to transmission guy yesterday, he tried to take it off but he couldn`t and he was busy, I will have an appointment with him next week.

If the reason is in differential bearing, can I hear the noise or it`s very quite?

Response From Sidom

The reason the seal is leaking is it was more than likely damaged when your guy installed it.....Those type of seals can be tricky to install.....

The ring/nest is just a 2nd seal.......a seal for the seal.....all it does is protects the oil seal from junk getting at it......
The factory correct 100% way to fix this would be to install a new seal and new axle with a new nest......

If it was my car.....I would get a new seal & pop off the nest/ring/shield & run without it.........most axle don't have those anyway

Response From spins06

Thank you for recommendation! I am going to buy new axle and seal.
Interesting detail: after the second guy tried to take the axle off, fluid didn`t leak for about one day, after 25 miles driving.

I am going to buy that axle, could you please tell me if it is Ok that it`s called "Import" axle?

Link deleted ............... not allowed

Response From Sidom

Last 8 of the VIN.....someone is use to calling the dealer for parts.................lol

2003 Sierra Chirping and Clunking when stopping and taking off.

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Question From MarineGrunt on 2003 Sierra Chirping and Clunking when stopping and taking off.

Hope everyone is doing well. I still haven't gotten around to the Venture's transmission but plan on keeping it and getting it rebuilt. It's gonna get put off a little bit longer.

I just bought a 2003 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton ext. cab 4x4. It only has 80k on it. I got one heck of a deal on it. I just wish it had the 5.3 instead of the 4.8. The only issues it has is the service air bag light stays on and a problem with something in the rear drive line. When taking off or stopping there is a loud "chirping" noise. It just chirps once or twice everytime I start or stop. It almost feels like there is some slack in the drive shaft back there. You can just feel it.The guy I bought the truck from said he took it to the dealership and they said the rear wheel bearings were offset. (never heard of that one) They said it was causing the gears in the diff to move or something like that. I just don't see it but I haven't messed with rear ends that much. (I'm sure I'll get some wise cracks over that one) I did come across some info about a nickel plated slip yoke. Has anyone ever done this repair? If so, did it fix the problem? Any other ideas before I start tearing into it?

Thanks in advance for the replies. I don't know what I'd do without this forum!

Response From Hammer Time

Look it over good for any metal on metal grounding out in things like u-joints, trans mount, loose yoke, suspension arms, exhaust movement, etc.

PS, does this have an aluminum driveshaft?

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks for the reply. Yes, it does have an aluminum driveshaft. I'm gonna take it off to my buddy's farm this weekend and put it on the hoist.

I googled the symptoms and there seem to be many others with the exact same thing. For most it ended up being too much slack in the slip yoke. There were some who pulled the driveshaft, put one of.those rubber bouncy balls in the rear slot of the transfer case and then reinstalled the shaft. It fixed their problem! I'd be too afraid of that rubber ball breaking up and ending up with chunks of rubber in the t case. Have you ever heard of anyone doing this? I'm going to fix it right but just curious. The things people.come up with.

Response From Hammer Time

That driveshaft consists of 2 pieces. It has an inner shaft that I have seen become unattached from the outer and make a chirping noise every time it is put in gear.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Watching this and now with HT's note I think this driveshaft is the inner/outer casing with rubber like motor mount or harmonic balancer rubber to dampen shock and vibrations. Can't imagine quite how but they are sold as "reman" shafts - just know the exact length.

If all this then I'm guessing that rubber isolation has let loose and shaft inner and outer can turn but only so far and bet you could see that (careful of course) just shifting forward to back with helper with shaft indexed that it didn't just re-center well or at all such that it would be able to both clunk and give that chirp of rubber squeaking against one of the shaft parts it is still adhered to.

Quick check showed whole replacement was about $300 w new u-joints. The basic idea isn't new. Haven't noted one chirping away or continued clunking if so and all guessing is that would move in your hands, vehicle not even running, in park just twisting on shaft watching??


Response From Hammer Time

I've never cut one open to see what is actually inside but I have changed a couple for a chirping noise that we were able to track down to the shaft as the source of the noise.

Response From MarineGrunt

It doesn't chirp when it's put into gear. It only chirps when you stop. It's only one chirp each stop and one chirp each takeoff. So, just one quick chirp. When I say "when you stop" I mean the last split second before the truck comes to a complete stop. It's not when you're slowing down but at about the same time the truck stops. It doesn't chirp at all while moving except right when you take off. It's like you feel the "slack" when you take off and it's followed by one "chirp". It's almost like it chirps when there is, what's the word I'm looking for, torque(?) on the rear components. If I come to a rolling stop and take off a split second before coming to a complete stop it you don't hear the chirp or feel a clunk. You only feel the "slack" when there's "torque". Hope that all makes sense. If it were the rubber inside the driveshaft would it do it more than what was explained above?

I did decide to take it in to the dealership yesterday to have the diagnose the problem. I talked to the mechanic and said it's just normal wear and could be a combination of everything in the rear end causing it. He said not to worry about it and keep driving it. With the "chirping" noise it's making it's hard not to worry about it. He said he dropped the driveshaft where it attaches to the diff and everything feels fine with the driveshaft.

I went ahead and picked up a diff kit that has the pinion and carrier bearings. I also picked up the rear u joint. I figure I'll start there and see what happens. Have to head out of state to see the sister in laws new baby so I'm not sure how soon I will get to it. I've never messed with pinion or carrier bearings. Is it something I should be able to do? The kit also came with shims. I've got a buddy who can give me a hand if you think I'll need some help.


Response From nickwarner

You'll need a pinion depth gauge, a hydraulic press, a dial indicator and a torque wrench that can read in inch pounds as torque is applied to it. Its not a simple swap like a wheel bearing, as the correct pinion depth, pinion bearing preload, carrier bearing preload and backlash (the depth of engagement between the ring and pinion gear teeth) must be correct to the .000 of an inch. If it was a carrier bearing or pinion bearing it would make a growling that would steadily increase with speed and load, and would eventually chew the teeth off your ring and pinion gears (go boom at the worst possible time). I'd leave the guts of the carrier alone. If you want, pop off the rear cover and visually inspect the ring gear for damaged teeth. Just have some black RTV to seal the cover back up with and fresh gear lube to refill the diff.

On the upside things could be much worse. You could be doing the intake on a Venture.

Response From Discretesignals

He already has. Most be getting old and the memory is slipping, Nick.


Response From nickwarner

I do remember, all 3 pages in fact. Figured it would make this seem better in comparison to all the fun he had on the van.

Response From MarineGrunt

Ha! That does make me feel a little better! I talked to my buddy who's a mechanic for Altorfer Cat and he said he has rebuilt a few diffs so will have him give me a hand. From the sounds of it it seems like something I probably shouldn't tackle on my own especially since I've never really messed with it before. If the gears are in fact worn should I just pick up a used rear end or get a new one? Or, is it best to replace all of he guts?

Response From MarineGrunt

I changed the u joints, poured a little autotrak fluid on the slip yoke, and that took care of the chirp and "slack". I read that sometimes the slip yoke will kinda stick. I guess lubing it will sometimes help the problem for about a month so I should know soon if it was the u joints or the slip yoke.
I then decided to change the diff fluid. After pulling the cover and inspecting one of the gears has some chips on the tip of each tooth. It's the small gear that is on top on the inside of the cylinder deal. (Sorry for the poor explanation, don't know much about diffs) Can the gear be purchased separately or do you have to buy the whole kit? How difficult is it to change? If I replace the gears should I go ahead with carrier and pinion bearings?


Response From Hammer Time

Sounds like you're talking about the spider gears. The kind of damage you are describing indicates some serious issues and it likely has extensive damage. Short cutting this would be a big mistake.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks Hammer.....I definitely don't wanna shortcut. Could there be something besides the diff that caused this? What do you recommend? Do you think I should rebuild the diff or buy a used one? I have the kit for the carrier and pinion bearings already so would just have to buy the gears. I saw a kit online for around $250. I do have a buddy who has rebuilt diffs who will be able to help if need be.

This truck only has 80,000 miles and I got it for $4200 so I don't mind putting money into it. Used or rebuilt? What do you think? Any other recommendations? I will take it to a mechanic if that's what you think needs to be done.

Response From Hammer Time

Rebuilt is always better but it depends on what you can afford. I'll let DS take this. He can get more specific than me.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks to both of you....DS....yes, from looking at your picture I would say it does. The gear that has chips was in the area towards the top of the picture where that little squiggly line is but the gear on mine looks different. The teeth are point straight out. My diff looks a little different but i'm guessing the picture was to just show me the governor locking..um...thingy?

Thanks again....really appreciate the help.

Response From MarineGrunt

What do ya think DS? Should it be completely rebuilt or should I pick one up from the junk yard? Any idea what caused the chipped teeth? If I do rebuild is there anything else that should also be replaced at the same time such as wheel bearings, carrier bearings, pinion bearings, etc?

Thank you for your time!

Response From Hammer Time

All the bearings should be automatic in a rebuild.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks Double J...Ya know I read about that nickel plated slip yoke before I took it to the dealership for them to diagnose it. After they looked at the truck they said it was normal where and tear and could be multiple things causing it. I then spoke with the mechanic myself. I mentioned about the aftermarket nickel plated slip yoke and he said "nope, I checked the slip yoke and it was fine". I saw him pull the rear section of the driveshaft so I know he checked it. When I replaces the u joints the other day I also lubed the slip yoke which I've heard that will temporarily take care of it. I almost wish I would've waited on the lube just to see if the u joints took care of it. I kinda think it was the lube. I think after I take care of the diff I'll go ahead and replace the slip yoke so I don't have to worry about it. I heard the lube on the slip yoke only lasts about a month so I guess I could wait and see. I have to get the diff taken care of before I do anything. I'll probably take care of it next weekend.

One more question, how do I know what gears to buy? Is the rear end labeled somewhere?


Response From Double J

Way back in the beginning ,Well after the Big Bang and prior to the nickel plated Yoke,
The 'fix' per the TSB at the time was to lube it.
Mostly all of 'em came back for repeat 'lube jobs'.....(well all the ones under warranty did or ones that had prior repairs under warranty.)
Needless to say there were a lot of angry GM owners ( I'll bet that statement has never been said before,LOL)
Replace the Yoke or it'll be back.

Funny ,when a vehicle is under the parameters of the warranty how people get very angry and demand a fix,yada,yada,yada
But when its out of warranty and they have to pay,they have no problem 'living with it'
That wasnt directed at you

Response From MarineGrunt

Only problem with the pinion gauge is that I have to learn how to use it first!

Definitely getting the nickel plated slip yoke. I wouldn't have any idea about warranty issues due to the fact I've never owned a vehicle with less than 36,000 miles! I wouldn't know what to do with myself if I bought a vehicle that didn't need some sort of work done! It's amazing how much money you can save if you find a vehicle that just needs a few basic things done to it. The few things on this truck ended up being a little more than basic but I can deal with that considering what I paid for it.

Thanks for bringing up that slip yoke Double J...I read about it but then swept that idea under the rug after a GM mechanic told me the slip yoke was fine and it didn't need the nickel plated one. I did wonder if maybe GM mechanics were told to blame the issue on normal wear and tear since there are so many complaints about the chirp and clunk. I'm not one of those big conspiracy theory guys but it did cross my mind.

Response From Double J

I did wonder if maybe GM mechanics were told to blame the issue on normal wear and tear since there are so many complaints about the chirp and clunk. I'm not one of those big conspiracy theory guys but it did cross my mind.

No,not at all.

Contrary to popular belief, Dealers and Dealership mechanics arent out to rip people off,hide warranty info,string it along until its out of warranty.etc,etc.
As a matter of fact ,its quite the opposite.
I worked at GM Dealers,where we took a lot of pride in our work. I've seen GM do their fair share of Goodwill waranty repairs,plenty to those who didn't even have it coming.And not just the small stuff,engines,transmissions,etc.I can aver strongly that they do not instruct their mechanics/techs to do anything other that whats right,period!
They try very hard to keep their customers in that buying circle.
Of course there is always a stray butthole or two but thats certainly not the norm.
Rarely,but it does happen,you'll get a tech that doesnt want to do a particular job so he'll either not say anything or just say,no problem found

I'll tell you what does seem to get dealers a bad rap is they way that service work is dispatched.
The way that i like and seems to work the best is with one centralized dispatcher who deles out the work to all the techs.
One who has the knowledge which tech is the most qualified for a certain job.He also has to know when a job turns into more that the first tech he gave it to can handle ,pull it and get another guy on it

The other way that work gets dispatched is thru each service writer/advisor/consultant or whatever they call them this week.
Each writer has his/her own techs to use and a lot of times due to availability,the wrong guy will definitely get a job that he normally would not have in a properly dispatched shop.

I've worked in Independent shops,owned my own and worked at dealerships.
Over 45 years,never heard of anyone being told cover anything up.

Now GM is also smart with their money and likes to spend theirs they same way we like to spend our own.
But the General does have a heart of gold.

Response From MarineGrunt

That's really comforting to hear that. I've only used the dealership, or any shop, a handful of times and have never had any issues with them. I just kind of figured if little ole me had heard about the nickel plated slip yoke that the tech would've known. I mentioned it to him when I was talking to him afterwards and he kind of looked ag me like he had never heard of it. Like I said tho, I've never had any issues with them and I don't consider my last appointment to be an issue. Heck, maybe the u joints took care of the problem. I guess I'll know once that lube wears off although I might just go ahead and replace it now just so it's done.

Could that slip yoke issue have causes the damage to the diff?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Could that slip yoke issue have causes the damage to the diff?"

Long thread - sorry if already mentioned. Is this slip yoke an ordinary splined shaft just to allow the free length of shaft to adjust some to the assorted loads AND gets stuck/sticky from lube breaking down? If those type things wherever get stuck tight it would put forces on things not intended with assorted potential problems.

If the original fix that was temporary didn't last by just lubing it then I would think the area is way too subject to washing out the lube. If the upgraded parts solve this I think it would be very important. Slipping splined shafts have been in use for light years many had a grease fitting. I was always told now so long ago to NOT overdo greasing the greasable by grease gun types. I've also used insanely expensive Marine (as in boating) grade greases that just don't wash out so easily.

Simply have not had surprise problems even if there was a faulty design perhaps because of that. IDK? I really mean I don't know but haven't had a problem seeming so common with such things and if it was that simple it wouldn't have become apparently such an issue with these.

Sorry to poke my nose in but want to know what the exact permanant solution is and what prevents it and mostly prevent bigger problems.

Keep at it,


Response From MarineGrunt

Tom, I changed both u joints and lubed the slip yoke. That seemed to take care of it. After some replies it sounds like it was the lube that took care of it. I am going to replace the slip yoke with the nickel plate one so I will let you know the results. I have read that even with the nickel yoke that the problem sometimes returns. All we can do is try. The only place you can get it is through GM and costs close to $200! Ouch! I knew I was going to have to put some money into this truck so it doesn't hurt as much. It will be one nice truck once I'm finished.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I come from another planet sometimes - smile. With this crap and history of temp solutions and now a part with improved metal to solve it longer term I wonder if some kind of 'electrical galvanic corrosion' (sp??) something is attacking this spot? Does the metal of the differential show that it is grounded when tested with a test light as silly as running a long wire to test light to the metal of it? Test might be ok but might be intermittent ground. All thru vehicles ground straps are placed body to engine, even exhaust to body or frame and all thru as moving parts are frequently isolated by rubber parts, grease seals, mounts or grease itself.

For the waste of a few more bucks I'd consider putting a plain braided ground strap from differential to frame carefully placed out of any harm of heat or moving parts. Just a brain fart reason why this seems to be a common problem


Response From MarineGrunt

With all of the engineers GM has you would think they could figure it out. I'll tell you what, sometimes a simple brain fart idea and take care of the biggest problems! Once I get the new slip yoke and diff taken care I think I'll try your brain fart idea! You never know.

We are out of town right now and I'm chomping at the bit to get back home to get going on everything. Heck, I just want to get back home so I can figure out which rear end I have so I can start ordering parts!

DS may have already told me this, but I was browsing the net and came across an exploded view of a posi and I think it's the pinion gears that are chipped. Are these also called spider gears? Can all of these be replaced or do you have to buy the whole unit?


Response From Hammer Time

The pinion gear is the main shaft attached to the yoke and driveshaft. The spider gears are the small side gears in the cluster.
This picture is not a limited slip but still shows you the gears.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks for the picture HT. Spider gears it is. The gear that I have that is chipped is the smaller one on the right in the picture. I'm assuming that the smaller one right across from it is also chipped.

Response From MarineGrunt

Is there a way to tell what diff I have? I mean I know it's the 3.73 posi but I'm seeing "30 spline 8.5/8.6 inch" or "28 spline 7.5 inch" etc. I also see where some say 10 bolt, 12 bolt, etc. Do I have to pull the cover to count splines, bolt pattern, etc or is there another way to figure that out?


Response From Hammer Time

The RPO codes don't get into that much detail. Thew bolt count is just counting the bolts on the back cover. You would have to pull the yoke off to count the splines and you would have to removed the ring gear to measure it.

Maybe DS has a good way to ID it. I don't do a lot of them.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks HT...that definitely helps to get me going in the right direction. I wonder if calling the dealership could help. I just hate to call and ask for information if I'm not going to have them do the work.

Response From Discretesignals

If you buying parts from them, they won't mind.
Did your friend have a look at it yet?

I'm just still curious why you want to overhaul the entire rear end for a chipped spider. The ring and pinion are probably still good if your backlash is within specifications.

You'll have to remove the carrier to get the spiders and you can do your carrier bearing inspection then. If you find you have bearings or races with problems, then you remove the pinion and inspect its races and bearings. If the pinion bearings are bad, they usually make grinding noises while driving that can be pinpointed with a mechanic's stethoscope.

Most of the time ring and pinions go bad from running with no fluid or they just become slap worn out which isn't very common.

If you really want to replace the spider gears or bearings, I suggest you go dealer. I personally ran into a couple of rear end jobs where the aftermarket bearing tolerances where different and threw off the contact pattern with makes it a nightmare because you basically have to set up the rear end from scratch.

Response From Hammer Time

He's doing it because I advised him to. Once those chips and grit start floating around, none of the bearings can be trusted and bearing are all I was referring to when I advised to go through it.

Response From MarineGrunt

I figured it's something that should be done. They are some pretty big chips. I'm not hearing any noises tho and it feels fine while driving. Maybe I'll drop the cover and take some pictures to post so I can see what everyone thinks. I just kind of assumed they needed replaced.

My buddy is out of town for another 3 weeks so if it does need done I'll either have to wait or attempt it myself. I looked at the steps on alldata and it looks like something I could possibly do. I do realize that things always look easier on paper tho.

Hopefully I can get some pictures up tomorrow. I'd appreciate it if you guys would take a look. I trust all the advice I get here and it would make me feel better knowing you see what I see.

Thanks for all the help and advice.

Response From Hammer Time

Do you have a press with all the adapters? All those bearings are pressed.

Response From MarineGrunt

My buddy has a press. I think I'm just gonna wait until he gets home and take care of it all then. I'd assume just rebuild the whole diff and be done with it. I personally can't say for sure but with the way the spider gears look it's just a matter of time. Some of the teeth are missing a whole chunk out of the center so not so sure I should've called them chips. I'll see what kind of pictures I can take. If not tomorrow hopefully Friday.

Thanks Hammer

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's not GM specific but huge as they are they absolutely have made MONSTER errors that some untold # of people signed off as all OK and things got produced by the zillions all wrong. It happens.

I just find that repeat issues with something so freaking basic could easily have something that stupid that all the CAD/CAM pin-heads missed and can't figure out unless a computer warning comes shooting out at them!

I'm in a rust/corrosion capitol of the world with road salts in heavy use and Atlantic Ocean as our boating playground, salt water of course. Tons of salt water boating and marine repair under my belt. Amazing the lengths a boat/yacht goes thru guarding itself from this I'll call it galvanic corrosion when just minor electrical charges get to metals need canceling that effect. Boats routinely use sacrificial zincs all over the place for submerged metals that if not maintained monster yacht or smaller boat's drive and steering gear is at wild risk without paying attention.

Sorry to beat this up but my primary car and all others like it has a factory ground strap at end hanger of tailpipe - all OE. One thing you can count on is that no car maker spends a dime on something you don't see if there wasn't a good reason!

Still out there and noted is simple trailer wiring with a specific ground wire to a metal trailer on a metal ball isn't enough for sustained ground for the simplest lighting for a brush trailer. I see them blinking away as the ball and recieving hitch loses momentary contact not involved with this corrosion lube issue but proves that things need to make the full loop from and back to battery. Silly things get overlooked. Some just break that should be there and still work for testing so don't catch notice so easily.

Stuff happens,


Response From Discretesignals

I imagine if the slip yoke was binding and caused pressure to be put onto the pinion flange, it could burn up the outer pinion bearing. I don't see it damaging spider gears though. Then you would think it would also cause transmission problems because it would take the end play out of the transmission internally components.

Ford truck have that problem too. They actually have a TSB that states to put PTFE grease on the splines.

Response From nickwarner

Teamwork is paying off it seems. I think J is onto your chirp fix, and you had another issue about to rear its head that you didn't know about. As HT said, all bearings must go. I do the wheel bearings as well because pieces that have chipped off are suspended in the oil and travel all over, just like in an engine. You've got a friend who does these a lot and will have the right tools. Rebuilding a rear end isn't hard if you know what you're doing, and with your appetite for learning I'm sure you'll be watching him do it and explain it to you. If you get a junkyard rear end you'd be rolling the dice. With a friend helping you its not costing you the labor of a regular shop, nor the parts markup and you'd be better off investing in the rebuild and never worrying about it again. When all is said and done fill it up with a quality synthetic gear lube and drive it. There is no break-in period on a rear end like a rebuilt engine would have.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks Nick....this forum is great! Are all rear ends the same on 2003 Gmc Sierra 1500with ext. Cab 4x4 4.8? Just wondering how to figure out which gear kit I need.

Response From Discretesignals

I'm just surprised that this rear end is worn out enough already to warrant an overhaul. When carrier bearings or pinion bearings go bad, you usually hear grinding or droning noises. How many Dodge Ram Pickups with corporate rear ends have you seen whining going down the road...lol. When ring and pinion gears wear out you get excessive backlash. Excessive backlash causes the clunking noises when you put it into gear. You can check for excessive back lash with a dial indicator. You can also check the tooth contact pattern with persian blue.

When you start replacing ring and pinion sets, you have to set it up using special tools to determine pinion depth. Then there is the hassle of carrier bearing preload and you need special shims because you can't reuse the cast iron ones that come in the rear end from the factory. Setting up rear ends is an art and I don't know too many people that do it correctly.

If it were my rear end, I would definitely make checks to be sure it is worn out. Some differential pinion/side (spider) gear chipping at the edges is normal. if it was a tooth chipped off, heavy scoring, or cracked, it is definitely time for replacement. Has your friend that does rear end work looked it? If you really want to replace pinion and side gears in the differential, I am sure you can order them from the dealer. I personally haven't had a gov lock apart before, but you really should get the service information and review it.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks DS....when driving it feels fine. The clunking and chirping.went away after I replaces.the u joints and lubes the slip yoke. My buddy has not looked at it yet. I called him this morning and he's gonna be out of town for a month for some training. When we get home Tuesday maybe I'll see if I can get a good picture and post it. I'm not so sure you'd call them chips but rather chunks. Maybe 1/8"-3/16" or so. They are not tiny by any means. I do have a pinion depth gauge that I got when my grandpa passed away but never have used it. I think I will take your advice by reviewing the service manual and see if it's something I think I can at least attempt. Worst case scenario is that I'd have to wait for my buddy to get back in town or tow it to a shop. Actually, worst case is I screw something up and I ruin the new gears I put in. I'm always up for a challenge so we will see. Time to do some reviewing.

Hope everyone has a great weekend.

Response From Hammer Time

I do have a pinion depth gauge

Man, I don't even have one of them!!!!!

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

There is a TSB on the noise

Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke) #01-04-17-004B - (Jan 5, 2005)

1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade (Old Style)

2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV

1996-1999 Chevrolet 1500 Series Extended Cab Short Box Pickup (Old Style)

1996-1999 Chevrolet 1500 Series Regular Cab Pickup and Utility Models (Old Style)

1999-2002 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab Short Box (New Style)

1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Series Regular Cab (New Style)

2000-2004 Chevrolet 1500 Series Avalanche, Suburban and Tahoe

2001-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500/3500 Series Regular Cab with Long Bed or Extended Cab (New Style)

2001-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 Series Crew Cab, Short Box (New Style)

1996-1999 GMC 1500 Series Extended Cab Short Box Pickup (Old Style)

1996-1999 GMC 1500 Series Regular Cab Pickup and Utility Models (Old Style)

1999-2002 GMC Sierra Extended Cab Short Box (New Style)

1999-2004 GMC Sierra 1500 Series Regular Cab (New Style)

2000-2004 GMC 1500 Series Yukon, Yukon XL

2001-2004 GMC Sierra 2500/3500 Series Regular Cab with Long Bed or Extended Cab (New Style)

2001-2004 GMC Sierra 2500 Series Crew Cab, Short Box (New Style)

2003-2005 HUMMER H2

with Four Wheel Drive (4WD) or All Wheel Drive (AWD) and One-Piece Propeller Shaft ONLY

This bulletin is being revised to add Cadillac Escalade (Old Style) and HUMMER H2 to the Models section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-17-004A (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).


Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.


A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the driveshaft slip yoke may cause this condition.

Diagnostic Tips

There are several resources in the electronic Service Information System which can provide the technician with information on diagnosis and repair of clunk conditions, and fix the customer's vehicle right the first time without unnecessary parts replacement. Some of the documents available in SI include:
• Symptoms - Propeller Shaft (SI Document ID #697266)
• Knock or Clunk Noise (SI Document ID #697290)
• Rear Drive Axle Noises (SI Document ID #700580)
• Launch Shudder/Vibration on Acceleration (Replace Propeller Shaft and Install a New Pinion Flange/Seal), Bulletin #02-04-17-001
• Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise, Bulletin #01-07-30-042
• Driveline Clunk When Stopping (Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Bulletin #03-07-30-028


Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel-plated slip yoke. See the parts table below.


12479383 Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (without u-joint) , Nickel Plated. Must Be Ordered With U-Joint Kit P/N 12479126 - 4WD/AWD 1500 Series Suburban, Avalanche, Yukon XL, Escalade EXT, Escalade ESV with AWD (New Style)

12479126 U Joint Kit: 4WD 1500 Series Suburban, Avalanche, Yukon XL) (Escalade EXT, Escalade ESV with AWD (New Style)

Response From Discretesignals

Does this have governor locking differential?

2006 chevy 1500

Showing 2 out of 16 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From alienshadow on 2006 chevy 1500

2006 Chevy 1500 work truck 4.3. engine... I was wondering if anyone could help me out? When I shift my truck from park to drive I hear a loud noise during shift if I go back to reverse it sounds loud to.. But from reverse back to drive it sounds like its going to fall out any ideas?? Thanks..Oh I am not sure what model transmission I have in it.. Also when driving its shifts normal and smooth..

Response From Hammer Time

Is this a loud, tinny SNAP sound?
Do you have an aluminum driveshaft?

Response From alienshadow

Hammer I am not sure.. I have it set to go in the shop in the morning.. I have searched the net for a tsb and found one.. They really just say no issue deal with it.. My problem is it just started today so oh well right? Also I did tow my trailor this weekend but its only a 5x8 and 1 riding mower and a push mower on it thats it no more than 1200 to 1500 lbs tell me for sure this truck can handle that load???? As for hearing the noise I am just pressing the brake and shifting at a stand still... How do I tell if its alumium?

Response From Hammer Time

The driveshaft will be silver in color and wider than usual if it's aluminum. I have seen a few that made a loud snap when shifted and it was due to an inner tube inside the driveshaft that comes loose and slaps against the outer housing when shifted. It's just one idea I've seen before.

Response From alienshadow

Its not alumium I just crawled under it looks a little rusty... Anyway could it possibly be the u joints?? I am sick of car problems I can tell you that that was my whole purpose in buying a newer truck.. I am open for any ideas because I know how these things work inder warranty I want it fixed correctly..

Response From Hammer Time

U-joints aren't known for loud banging noises. They can give a small snap when shifted or a repeating chirping noise when accelerating along with a high pitched vibration whenever accdelering at higher speeds.. It's easy to tell. Crawl under with a good light and get a real close up look and look for any red powder oozing out of any of the caps. If you see any, you have a bad joint. You could also have a broken trans mount or bad pinion bearing too.

Response From alienshadow

Hammer are those easy fixes?? Also me towing wouldnt have caused this would it??

Response From Hammer Time

There are varying degrees of everything. U-joints are a couple hundred bucks if the driveshaft has not been damaged. A pinion bearing has a lot of open doors so that has the potential to get pricey. I doubt you did anything by towing it.

Response From alienshadow

Glad I have a 30 day warranty and I am glad I bought the extended warranty...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Alien - this too shall pass. Glad you bought the warranty on this. It's fairly new in my book and a truck should be able to easily tow the weight mentioned.

I think already said but just grab the driveshaft just sitting there and see if anything moved when jockeying it and twisting it. Tell tale rust dust at the U-joints does mean they are bad. When very bad they show movement. Can crackle and snap putting in gear and vibrate under certain load conditions if it's that at all. If a rear diff issue it could be involved. Not known to me as being a lot of trouble with any of them. I don't know this year well but even a dumb driveshaft has its engineering. It probably has two U-joints and is rubber isolated like a harmonic balancer but not sure on that.

With warranty don't be taking anything apart - let the place deal with it. You can do some checks and taking a driveshaft out is the best way to inspect it and not all that hard but don't.

Last U-joints I did were NOT very expensive to buy - even quality ones. Can't say as by chance not one now for ages??

Been out of doing this as biz since before this truck was made but doubt anyone re-invented the wheel. I do still tend to family and too many of my own. It'll work out,


Response From alienshadow Top Rated Answer

Here is what they said my problem is... Also they did fix my vibration from the exhaust system they put a flex pipe underneath somwhere towards the front side of the muffler any way see below...

Subject: Information on Driveline Clunk Noise When Shifting Between PARK and DRIVE, PARK and REVERSE or DRIVE and REVERSE #99-04-20-002D - (06/08/2006)

Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks

2007 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3

2005-2007 Saab 9-7X


This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-20-002C (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).


Important: The condition described in this bulletin should not be confused with the following previous bulletins:

• Info - Discontinue Flushing and Replacing Transfer Case Fluid Due to Bump/Clunk Concern (Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004A or newer).

• Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke) (Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-17-004B or newer).

Some owners of vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse. Similarly, owners of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released.

Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have.

The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline.

For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline.

In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons:

• Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components.

Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.

• While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Alien - Is this to say they stop at calling this NORMAL? I understand what "lash" is and it's necessary slip joint not to be so dang tight they won't slip as needed in about all vehicles. I'm dismayed that GM has made trucks since forever and all of a sudden goes brain dead as ones from the 60s, 70s, 80s and 90s didn't universally have this issue.

Now I doubt there's a problem with U-joints as you did your homework and found the bulletin you posted. WTF - no wonder they needed a bailout!

I own a 97 C/K 2500 4X4 with 49K now and it doesn't do that at all. It rides like it has NO suspension without a load which is near always but it's not meant to ride like a Cadillac. That I can understand. My fault - I bought something more HD than I needed. This normal lash can be toned down by the way you make the driveshaft. If it's a noise enough that you and others as the bulletin suggests think something is wrong I'm just ticked that GM could let that go as normal.

This if normal could be reduced by dampening the longest driveshaft. If you tap on that one to the rear and it rings it's just making any lash noise sound louder. That's an engineering boo boo. Maybe we should all give up and go back to horses!


Response From alienshadow

Tom Thanks yes I bought the truck from CarMax I cant complain on their service but they will send you away if the TSB says to do so as the one above did.. Like I said drive it until it falls out if that happens and then let them worry about it.. Thats why I bought the extended warranty.. Yes you guys have helped me more than you know...

Response From alienshadow

Just my luck after new tires the same issue then i read this...Man oh Man...

#PIT3009L: Suspension Vibration Or Frame Beaming At 40-60 MPH (64-80 KM/H) - keywords front rear shake shock spring tire - (Dec 3, 2009)

Subject: Suspension Vibration or Frame Beaming at 40-60 mph (64 - 80 km/h)

Models: 1999-2009 Chevrolet Silverado and Silverado Classic

1999-2009 GMC Sierra and Sierra Classic
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Beam shake vibration is usually felt in the seat and occurring at speeds between 40-50 mph (64 - 80 km/h). Hertz readings using an EVA tool are normally between 8-24 Hz. This condition is most common on extended cab and crew cab models but has also been noted in other models.

The severity of beam shake may vary from vehicle to vehicle. To determine if the concern is beam shake, please perform the following:

•Test drive vehicle to confirm the condition. A beam shake condition will usually respond to concrete type pavements more than asphalt, so the vehicle should be driven over both surfaces if possible.
•Place 200-500 pounds in the pickup bed between the closed tailgate and the wheel wells. A beaming condition should dissipate.
Note: Tires with excessive Radial Force Variation (RFV) or out-of-roundness can intensify the frame beaming concern. The following radial force variation numbers should be used as a guide:

P-Metric tires (2wd 1500)
12 lbs or less

P-Metric tires (all others)
24 lbs or less

30 lbs or less

If the concern is determined to be beam shake, this is a characteristic of the vehicle. GM Engineering has released updated body mounts to reducing this concern for the Crew and Extended Cab Models. There will be no changes made to the Regular Cab Models.



New upper and lower mounts should be installed at the left and right rear cab position. The new LOWER mount is a two piece design, meaning there is a rubber mount with a metal washer. Some models may use a one piece lower mount, meaning the rubber mount has a metal washer molded into it. If the vehicle has the one piece lower mount design, washers (PN 15854745, Qty 2) will be needed to be used with the new lower mount.

Note: Some new body mounts may have an oily film covering them. This oily film may be left on the mounts during the assembly process and does not indicate a faulty mount. Do not replace the mount for this issue.

Upper Mount 25791031 Qty 2 (DO NOT USE ON 2009 1500 MODELS WITHOUT RPO Z83, see note above)

Lower Mount 25791032 Qty 2 (DO NOT USE ON 2009 1500 MODELS WITHOUT RPO Z83, see note above)

Washer 15854745 Qty 2 (if needed)

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

Response From alienshadow

Tom you think Roy Rodgers would come back and teach us how to do it? I mean I dont need the inside of my thighs to rub raw on no horse lmao......

But yeah weird how they push the consumer away when there is an issue.. I couldnt believe the tech came at me with this lol oh well I will drive it like it is until it falls out...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote: ">>But yeah weird how they push the consumer away when there is an issue"

Reading between the lines you weren't given this vehicle and bought it from a buisiness. When in biz for whatever if you don't put the customer first then you will lose your reputation and probably go out of biz unless somehow you are a monopoly.

Sears Roebuck & Company pre dates us all. They were the #World retailer with a bold sign over the entrance door saying "Satisfaction Guaranteed" and may have said or your money back.

Sam Walton - the original started Walmart now I think still the world's #1 retailer with the same concepts.

GM is huge and knows how to build vehicles. Why a flaw can get out is beyond my comprehension but it does happen with them and all the others too.

We are a collection of volunteer pretty damn high end techs here - free to use this site. If this is in fact and looks like it, a flaw in engineering that is just annoying but safe than fine. There are other truck makers that would love to have you own theirs.

Never mind the computer and the sites. I bet in the "Owner's Manual" of the truck there's a phone #. I have and would again spoken by chance was about a GM issue. Took a while but did get to department heads of engineering about a flaw I noticed and documented.

If need be call them directly. If they don't care about especially a repeat customer of their products than screw them for your next vehicle if you wish.

It's clear - you've tried on this and other issues at this site. Speaking for myself I'll help you if this still needs to be resolved somehow,