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First Equipment Quality
1996 Geo Metro CV Axle Assembly 3 Cyl 1.0L First Equipment Quality

P311-43265A5    W0133-1692160  New

Qty:
$68.33
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Right
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission BrakeABS Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Geo Metro LSi Manual Non-ABS L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 993
First Equipment Quality
1997 Geo Metro CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-2D44ED4    W0133-1692156  New

Qty:
$68.42
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Left
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission BrakeABS
1997 - Geo Metro Base Manual Non-ABS

Latest Geo Repair and Axle Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

92 Geo Prizm vibrates rough at 1200-1800 Rpms

Showing 9 out of 9 Posts
Question From Big-T on 92 Geo Prizm vibrates rough at 1200-1800 Rpms

Hello all my name is Tony...I am good with my hands but def not a motor head...I can do lots of things on my own when i find the problem that needs to be fixed.I am here today cause i can not even find the problem to fix it, And would like a large range of knowledge to try and steer me in the right direction,Ok i am tring to fix my girl friends car...It's a 1992 Geo Prizm Lsi with 195,000 miles and a 4 cyl 16 valve Fe motor in it(After research its same as a Toyota Corolla)..I am not the driver of this car so i can only go off what she has told me...I know the car ran ok for it's year and miles...But out of no where she has this bad engine vibration that is very bad...I went to the easy things first which were indeed busted to pcs(Engine mounts and trans mounts)..Did not fix the problem..This problem does not require the car to be moving to do this so i scratched off tires/Drive line(Axles)..This accures at somewhere in the range of 1200-1800 rpms,At idle it's fine...and at a higher rpm it's fine....I have pull trans and dropped oil pan and i still do not see nothing that would cause this..I was told a bent piston rod could do this(From A LOCAL SHOP)..But i put all cyl at top dead center and stuck gauge through spark plug hole and not even a slight diffrence(I figured that was enough to take that off the list)..I was wondering if a bad torq conveter could cause this prob..I also notice when i dropped trans it was marked with yellow marker 97 corolla as well as the torq converter(So i know it's either used or a junk yard item)...But it was the one in there since she owed it....Plus i was also told to remove all belts and try to wiggle all pully's up down and back and forth(Still nothing)..I was told the main pulley is a balancer norm made with rubber in it which i could see,But no noteable damage....If anyone has heard of this or could give me simple things to try i would love to soak in the info and give it a shot...Also while the car is running and in park could something inside trans cause this...?.....Thanks for your time and i will be checking back daily....She has my car and i want it back(Smile)...

Response From dmac0923

you seemed to have covered the basics pretty well.

my recommendations would have been

motor mounts
trans mount
axles
transmission input bearing

you may be onto something with the harmonic balancer. I have heard of harmonic balancers 'shifting" meaning the rubber and the metal are no longer one piece and is taking the motor rotating assembly out of balance ever so slightly

Response From Big-T

Well yes as i stated i am good with my hands and try alot before i ask questions.I am a suspension mech for cars and rigs just not a daily motor guy....Again i have trans out and oil Pan down as of today and am lost on whats the issue here ...Trans has leaks so i wanted to seal it anyhow so i figured i could look to see if the prob was there somewhere and while it's down and out i will do rear main seal...The problem here is many things can be done while i have it apart but i hate to do all this and find out that i can't solve the problem i am here asking about just to turn around and junk the car....Grrrrr

Response From Big-T

Ok...Does anyone know if this car that i posted about in first post have a balanced cam in it (16 valve Dohc Fe model Motor)

Response From DanD

I had a look through the service bulletins that I have and found nothing directly concerning engine or trans vibrations. There was one article on the torque converter’s clutch coming apart causing a shudder but I’m not sure if this would address your concerns?
If you don’t physically find anything, put the car back together and try starting the engine with the torque converter left undone, from the engine. If your vibration is gone, you’ll know what you’ll be doing again; it always comes apart easier the second time. LOL
Sorry I don’t mean to make fun of but that’s the joy of searching for something that doesn’t want to give up its secrets.
I don’t think this engine uses an internal balance shaft?
When you checked the harmonic balancer did you try running the engine with the belts off? I’ve had water pumps or AC clutches not make a sound but the bearings be all but destroyed?

Dan.

Response From Big-T Top Rated Answer

Well no worries about poking fun,I have torn stuff apart many times just to find the problem and your right second time is always easier..(Smiles)...So back to the topic,I spoke with a local trans guy that has been in bizz for many years here local and explained the issues.. And thats who said he was not sure of this motor But has heard of the balance cam chain or something to that matter would get wacked and cause a shake/Vibration...He also noted to me about unbolting torq converter as well as you noted start motor and see if i still had it(I didn't know i could do that duh!!) So i am going to reseal the whole trans and rear main seal and throw it in and see what i have....I also was told by the trans guy that the main pulley may not wobble, And by hand could not tell if the rubber was bad but it could spin inside itself to throw it out of balance,So...1st i would like to thank you for looking that up for me cause i neither couldn't find anything about a balance cam for this car.....And thanks for your thought about the other pulleys,But if you was here you would know for a fact it was not no water pump pulley(lol)...This is a crazy vibration...But be sure i will check them all before i put belts back on,Also i checked the main pulley while belts were off(No tension)....I will do what i stated and keep yah posted on progress and or help if i need more...Thank's Tony...Any advice while i am getting to this i will soak in to my thoughts....

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Tony; If you haven't reinstalled the trans already, check the flex plate very carefully for cracks. Between the torque converter, flex plate, and harmonic balancer, sounds like you are on the right track. And, with your attitude, I'm pretty comfortable in saying that you'll succeed in finding the problem. Good luck.

Response From Big-T

Well i am on hold do to going to my girls this weekend,But i will be back at it after the weekend and need to get it out of my shop where i work...(Kinda taking up a bay from my boss(Not Good lol)...When you say flexplate do you me Flywheel..?...again not a motor head so words and terms my get me by surprise...Thank you all once again...Tony

Response From Big-T

Ok my online friends/Helpers...I had time to return to this project and here is my results....

If you rem i had removed trans to get a further look.....Well trans turned out ok.....Flywheel was ok.....so i resealed rear of motor and reseal the whole trans/and new filter...I put it together enough to start it with out torq converter connected........(No vibration)....Then i bolted torq verter back up....(Still no vibration)......So i installled all the belts and replace a cv boot ..Lowered the car and took for a drive and still ..(No vibration)....So i ask myself...What and where did the vibration go....And what caused it....Am i happy it's gone...Yes....Am i bothered i didn't do crap that should have fixed it, Of course.....I would have like to knowN what fixed this issue....Grrr....I didn't even get to change the main crank pulley ,Vibration was gone before i got that far......Hummmm i am puzzled... Tony

Mounting repair bills on my 2 older cars

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From billy245Q on Mounting repair bills on my 2 older cars

2003 Hyundai Sonata paid $2300- 2 1/2 years ago // 1996 Buick Park Avenue just bought one month ago for $2000- I lived in New York City so I never needed a car. When I moved here I thought it would be cheaper to buy 2 used cars from my mechanic rather than have a new car with a big down payment and big monthly payment for 6 years. Also, if one car was in the shop, I would never be w/out a car. However I'm finding the repair bills are adding up and it almost seems like it might be cheaper to just sell these 2 cars and use the $ for a down payment. I saw at least six well rated 2012-13 cars priced in the 13K range with only 10,000 miles on them getting 26/39 mpg. A 5 year loan would be approx. $175/mo. My 1996 Buick will probably need a lot of repairs moving forward. Maybe my mechanic is not my "friend" -- he sells me cheap cars knowing he'll make $ as well as the regular $300 repair bills. Right now the Sonata has a pending $400 front axle repair needed. The Buick which I just bought already has a temp. programmer control problem which will run at least $300. If this were you, what would you do? My question is should I keep these 2 cars or just buy a new car?

Response From Hammer Time

Sounds like he's not too friendly with the pricing either. You can get axles installed for under $200 in many places. You always want to get a used car checked out by an impartial mechanic, not the guy you are buying them from.

Response From billy245Q

Thank you but what I'm trying to determine is whether to keep these 2 cars or just buy a new one. You may say this is a repair site...

Response From kev2

2012-2013 are used vehicles, I would ask what is the transfer warranty- would check with MANUFACTURER not the seller unless that is the authorized dealer of the brand in question.... ie an authorized ford dealer selling a used ford.

What is your yearly mileage you put on a vehicle- maybe a lease ?

Neither of those current 2 vehicles- are what I would call desirable especially without DIYer skills as they are OLD.
300$ is NOT a very high repair......... labor and parts adds up fast, think this its a bargain - a visit to your physician a blood test and a prescription - 300$ sounds good after that thought

Not NYC anymore - where are you now , might helo us understand what you need- vermont vs florida situation.


PS - put NO faith or creditability in the MPG ratings. NONE

Response From billy245Q Top Rated Answer

Yes, an authorized dealer. I considered leasing but ran the numbers and over the longer period, owning would be cheaper. I live in a suburb of Cleveland,Ohio - putting well under 10k a year, retired. Last year I had a 1996 Geo prism and it died, That's why I bought the Buick - to replace it. I paid out at least $1500 in repair bills last year That $300 was one of several repair jobs - 2 brake jobs, struts,mufflers,tires etc., Remember, I'm paying out repairs on 2 older cars.What I'm getting at is the multiple repair bills vs. a lower monthly new car payment and not worrying about what will go next...and my cars sitting on my mechanics lot for a week at a time. I wouldn't put any faith in my current mpg either - the Buick is something like 17/24mpg at best.

Response From Hammer Time

Thank you. What I'm trying to determine is whether I should sell these 2 cars and just buy a new one. You may say this is just a repair site...

My answer would still be that you need to have the car checked out by an impartial mechanic. You need to know what kind of shape these cars are in now. All cars will requires some maintenance. The question is, would it be cheaper to pay all the new car expenses or maintain the old ones.

Response From billy245Q

Ok - I think I'm half way there in terms of an answer. I left out a useful piece of info. The Sonata has 129k miles on it and the Buick has 119k miles. I can easily figure out the total cost of the new car for say 6 years. I have another well respected mechanic that I can have check out both cars. However the Buick is almost 20 years old. Even if he said its in ok shape, it still would start to fall apart because of its age and I would encounter one repair bill after the next hoping it wouldn't be $5-6-700- or more. Same with the Sonata. he could say its in ok shape but no mechanic would say , hey in the next 5 years your repair bills should be minimal, you know what I'm saying. They can't predict a major repair won't pop up.Like you said, these are old cars and they aren't good ones either.

Response From billy245Q

Thank you. What I'm trying to determine is whether I should sell these 2 cars and just buy a new one. You may say this is just a repair site...