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First Equipment Quality
2011 Cadillac DTS CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-426FB1C    W0133-1855047  New

Qty:
$131.63
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • with Heavy Duty Suspension (RPO FE7)
Brand: First Equipment Quality
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Vehicle
2011 - Cadillac DTS
First Equipment Quality
2008 Cadillac DTS CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-426FB1C    W0133-1855047  New

Qty:
$131.63
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Heavy Duty Suspension
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Cadillac DTS
First Equipment Quality
2014 Cadillac CTS CV Axle Assembly 6 Cyl 3.0L First Equipment Quality

P311-4FBA3AB    W0133-1969298  New

Qty:
$147.30
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Cadillac CTS V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 -
First Equipment Quality
2014 Cadillac Escalade ESV CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-07E2ED8    W0133-1985626  New

Qty:
$139.64
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Cadillac Escalade ESV
ACDelco
2014 Cadillac Escalade ESV CV Axle Assembly ACDelco - .

P311-34CDAE0    W0133-1985626  New

Qty:
$649.13
ACDelco CV Axle Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • .
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Cadillac Escalade ESV
First Equipment Quality
2018 Cadillac Escalade ESV CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-2D6797F    W0133-2073169  New

Qty:
$131.53
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2018 - Cadillac Escalade ESV
First Equipment Quality
2018 Cadillac Escalade ESV CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-2D6797F    W0133-2073169  New

Qty:
$131.53
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2018 - Cadillac Escalade ESV
ACDelco
1999 Cadillac Escalade CV Axle Assembly ACDelco

P311-49E56FB    W0133-1686785  New

Qty:
$675.83
ACDelco CV Axle Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Excludes Supplemental Protective Boot
  • Front
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Cadillac Escalade
First Equipment Quality
2005 Cadillac Escalade ESV CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-5171D03    W0133-1686962  New

Qty:
$102.94
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • w/o Supplemental Protective Boot
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Cadillac Escalade ESV
ACDelco
2005 Cadillac Escalade ESV CV Axle Assembly ACDelco

P311-095020C    W0133-1686962  New

Qty:
$758.35
ACDelco CV Axle Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • w/o Supplemental Protective Boot
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Cadillac Escalade ESV
First Equipment Quality
2006 Cadillac Escalade EXT CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-5171D03    W0133-1686962  New

Qty:
$102.94
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Cadillac Escalade EXT
ACDelco
2006 Cadillac Escalade EXT CV Axle Assembly ACDelco

P311-095020C    W0133-1686962  New

Qty:
$758.35
ACDelco CV Axle Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Cadillac Escalade EXT
First Equipment Quality
1993 Cadillac Seville CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-097F76F    W0133-1685619  New

Qty:
$120.76
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1993 - Cadillac Seville STS
First Equipment Quality
1999 Cadillac DeVille CV Axle Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-097F76F    W0133-1685619  New

Qty:
$120.76
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • Except Heavy Duty Suspension
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Cadillac DeVille
First Equipment Quality
2014 Cadillac CTS CV Axle Assembly 6 Cyl 3.0L First Equipment Quality

P311-565CE54    W0133-1763593  New

Qty:
$81.75
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Cadillac CTS V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 -
First Equipment Quality
2014 Cadillac CTS CV Axle Assembly 6 Cyl 3.0L First Equipment Quality

P311-0366752    W0133-1763592  New

Qty:
$129.37
First Equipment Quality CV Axle Assembly
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Cadillac CTS V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 -

Latest Cadillac Repair and Axle Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Torque converter is leaking? Big deal?

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From Tridox76 on Torque converter is leaking? Big deal?

I own a 2000 Cadillac Deville DTS that recently had the transmission light flick on. This car has around 230,000 miles on it. I took it into the mechanic and they told me it wasn't a big problem, as it was just the torque converter leaking. I'm worried he is hoping I'll let it go until it "is" a big problem. Can anyone offer me some more info on a leaking torque converter? Is it a huge deal or can I let it go? I know a bit about cars, but not enough to deal with transmission issues. And how did he know that was the problem?

Response From Discretesignals

What is the trouble code number?

Response From gsferraro Top Rated Answer

Hello,
To determine where this is leaking from, the trans should be cleaned down and reinspected, it was a common issue to leak from the front due to a hair line crack because of high pressure issues, but that problem was resloved around 1996, i dont see much of these car leaking from the front. This is a low point of the trans thats why i would clean it down. Its common for the left side axle to leak, also the harness connector right next to the bell housing is common to leak. A torque converter is a sealed unit, it can leak at the weld, but i dont see this much. I would have it cleaned down and checked correctly. Hows the fluid level? Gary

Response From Tridox76

Hey thanks for the replies. I'm not sure what the code # is, the mechanic just said the torque converter was leaking. So I'll clean the bottom up tonight and try to find where the leak is coming from, but is it a transmission killer to have a leak? Bottom line, its an old car, and I won't be spending $1000 to fix a $1000 car. So should I be looking for another car or will checking anf filling tranny fluid be sufficient? (If leak cant br stopped?) And I know its hard to say until you know where the leak is, so I'll get back to you on that. Thanks.

Response From kev2

you are not understanding the questions...
is it leaking fluid- a puddle under vehicle OR
is there a CODE that was described as converter "leaking" internally...

Response From gsferraro

Hello,
By chance is the code P0741? Gary

Response From Tridox76

Finally! Sorry it took so long, but I was able to pull the code and it is in fact P0741. So is it something that will kill the tranny within a month or will it be ok for awhile?

Response From gsferraro

Hello,
The P0741 code is very common on this trans, what happens is a seal tears inside the transmission causing this code. If you drive local, you may be ok for awhile, this function called Lock-up occurs at highway speeds 40mph and up, to cut down on heat(2 worst things for a transmission are heat and water) The torque converter locks to engine rotation and there is no slip(no slip no extra heat)when it cant lock-up and the converter keeps slipping or the PCM inhibits lock up because of too much slip, it will generate alot of heat which can cause damage to your trans. Do you do highway drivng with this car? Gary

Response From Tridox76

My commute every day is 30 minutes one way of 65 mph speeds. Looking at other people it seems it will be relatively ok. I hope so anyway. The cost to repair the problem is around $300 more than the car is worth.

Response From gsferraro

Hello,
These transmissions are costly to fix. you also may see a decrease in your gas mileage. Gary

Response From Discretesignals



DTC display; 1998-2004 Seville, 2000-2005 Deville and other models with 3 buttons on the RH side of DIC


Use the 3 switches located to the right (LH dribe cars) of the Driver Information Center (DIC) to activate and respond to the OBD prompts on the DIC.

ON/OFF = YES
INFO RESET = NO
INFO DOWN or INFO UP = manual toggle


Ignition ON, acknowledge any warning messages; press ON/OFF and INFO UP together for 2 to 3 seconds. Everything in front of you lights up for 4 or 5 seconds, then you will see:

Display shows "ALL?"

Answering YES will display "ALL CODES?"
Answering YES will run automatic test sequence and display codes, if any. Systems and codes will scroll faster than I am able to read them and write them; not to worry.
"ALL CLEAR CODES?" will display at the end of the automatic test. If you are satisfied you have the information you need, answer YES to clear/erase all error codes.


Answering "ALL?" with INFO DOWN will toggle systems test manually in order.
Answering "ALL?" with INFO UP will toggle system test manually in reverse order.

Press INFO RESET to reset DIC to "ALL?" to start again.

Ignition OFF to exit.

Response From Tridox76

Sorry for the late reply. The leak is internal. The mechanic described it as a faulty transmission light because there wasn't anything more than an internal leak. And after cleaning everything up and waiting, I don't see any external leaks. I don't know the code # though. Could I get it checked at autozone for them to tell me the exact code?

Response From gsferraro

Hello,
If you can get the code, that would be good. Depending on how you drive this car it could be a big deal. Gary

Response From kev2

there are two scenarios very different let us know
1) the trans is leaking fluid -
2) there is a engine code related to transmission or TCC operation

99 Cadillac Steering Issues, Please HELP me save $$

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From nesluopetan on 99 Cadillac Steering Issues, Please HELP me save $$

I have a 99 ETC eldorado 74,000 miles. When you are driving on the freeway, it drives great. nice and straight and does not have lose steering.. When you start to turn around a corner, and the wheel goes more than half way into the turn, you feel a little POP and the wheel jerks back and makes the car shudder and swirve a little. Its very hard to explain.. When you turn the wheel it slowly gets tighter and tighter until the POP happens, then it makes the wheel go lose for a sec then back to normal. It makes it scary as hell to drive on freeway when that happens. This IDENTICAL thing happened on my ford truck, and it was the axle ujoints were shot and once they were fixed, the problem went away.. however I dont think the cadillacs have anything near that of the ford truck. I just paid the dealer 100.00 today to diagnose it for me, and they said it was the power steering pump which is 750.00 to fix.. I do not believe them one bit. the fluid is fine, and it does not whine or make any noises.. it feels like a actual joint is wore out and thats what is causing it.. just not sure which one or how to figure it out. please reply with any help you may have for me. I know its hard to explain so if you drop me a line I can try to elaborate more. Thanks.

Nathan
nesluopetan@hotmail.com

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

Take it to another dealer or independent shop for a second opinion. Yea you’re going to be charged again for the diagnosis but it may be worth the piece of mind.
Things like this need to be seen and tested first hand to diagnose. Being it’s a Cadi the first quote doesn’t sound out of line if it is a pump. You’re driving a Cadi you shouldn’t expect Caviler repair bills; you want to play you got to pay. LOL
I don’t mean that the repair cost should be higher just because of the name on the hood; it’s just that a Cadi has a lot more creature features and that will cost you more to repair. Yes even the steering has extra features such as variable rate steering. That’s so when you’re in a parking lot you can turn the steering with one finger but out on the highway the power assist is reduced to give you more road feel. Is your steering problem in this system; I don’t know?
Even if the features that this car has are not affecting or causing the problem, the technicians have to work around them and most times are in the way of getting to the root cause of the problem.
I would stay off the freeways or better yet stop driving it other then to a repair facility. You know there is a steering issue; get it fixed regardless of the cost or park it. I know you didn’t say that you weren’t going to have it repaired; get the second opinions to confirm the cause and like the Cable Guy says “get her done”. LOL.
Dan.

2003 Sierra Chirping and Clunking when stopping and taking off.

Showing 2 out of 46 Posts | Show 44 Hidden Posts
Question From MarineGrunt on 2003 Sierra Chirping and Clunking when stopping and taking off.

Hope everyone is doing well. I still haven't gotten around to the Venture's transmission but plan on keeping it and getting it rebuilt. It's gonna get put off a little bit longer.

I just bought a 2003 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton ext. cab 4x4. It only has 80k on it. I got one heck of a deal on it. I just wish it had the 5.3 instead of the 4.8. The only issues it has is the service air bag light stays on and a problem with something in the rear drive line. When taking off or stopping there is a loud "chirping" noise. It just chirps once or twice everytime I start or stop. It almost feels like there is some slack in the drive shaft back there. You can just feel it.The guy I bought the truck from said he took it to the dealership and they said the rear wheel bearings were offset. (never heard of that one) They said it was causing the gears in the diff to move or something like that. I just don't see it but I haven't messed with rear ends that much. (I'm sure I'll get some wise cracks over that one) I did come across some info about a nickel plated slip yoke. Has anyone ever done this repair? If so, did it fix the problem? Any other ideas before I start tearing into it?

Thanks in advance for the replies. I don't know what I'd do without this forum!

Response From Hammer Time

Look it over good for any metal on metal grounding out in things like u-joints, trans mount, loose yoke, suspension arms, exhaust movement, etc.

PS, does this have an aluminum driveshaft?

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks for the reply. Yes, it does have an aluminum driveshaft. I'm gonna take it off to my buddy's farm this weekend and put it on the hoist.

I googled the symptoms and there seem to be many others with the exact same thing. For most it ended up being too much slack in the slip yoke. There were some who pulled the driveshaft, put one of.those rubber bouncy balls in the rear slot of the transfer case and then reinstalled the shaft. It fixed their problem! I'd be too afraid of that rubber ball breaking up and ending up with chunks of rubber in the t case. Have you ever heard of anyone doing this? I'm going to fix it right but just curious. The things people.come up with.

Response From Hammer Time

That driveshaft consists of 2 pieces. It has an inner shaft that I have seen become unattached from the outer and make a chirping noise every time it is put in gear.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Watching this and now with HT's note I think this driveshaft is the inner/outer casing with rubber like motor mount or harmonic balancer rubber to dampen shock and vibrations. Can't imagine quite how but they are sold as "reman" shafts - just know the exact length.

If all this then I'm guessing that rubber isolation has let loose and shaft inner and outer can turn but only so far and bet you could see that (careful of course) just shifting forward to back with helper with shaft indexed that it didn't just re-center well or at all such that it would be able to both clunk and give that chirp of rubber squeaking against one of the shaft parts it is still adhered to.

Quick check showed whole replacement was about $300 w new u-joints. The basic idea isn't new. Haven't noted one chirping away or continued clunking if so and all guessing is that would move in your hands, vehicle not even running, in park just twisting on shaft watching??

T

Response From Hammer Time

I've never cut one open to see what is actually inside but I have changed a couple for a chirping noise that we were able to track down to the shaft as the source of the noise.

Response From MarineGrunt

It doesn't chirp when it's put into gear. It only chirps when you stop. It's only one chirp each stop and one chirp each takeoff. So, just one quick chirp. When I say "when you stop" I mean the last split second before the truck comes to a complete stop. It's not when you're slowing down but at about the same time the truck stops. It doesn't chirp at all while moving except right when you take off. It's like you feel the "slack" when you take off and it's followed by one "chirp". It's almost like it chirps when there is, what's the word I'm looking for, torque(?) on the rear components. If I come to a rolling stop and take off a split second before coming to a complete stop it you don't hear the chirp or feel a clunk. You only feel the "slack" when there's "torque". Hope that all makes sense. If it were the rubber inside the driveshaft would it do it more than what was explained above?

I did decide to take it in to the dealership yesterday to have the diagnose the problem. I talked to the mechanic and said it's just normal wear and could be a combination of everything in the rear end causing it. He said not to worry about it and keep driving it. With the "chirping" noise it's making it's hard not to worry about it. He said he dropped the driveshaft where it attaches to the diff and everything feels fine with the driveshaft.

I went ahead and picked up a diff kit that has the pinion and carrier bearings. I also picked up the rear u joint. I figure I'll start there and see what happens. Have to head out of state to see the sister in laws new baby so I'm not sure how soon I will get to it. I've never messed with pinion or carrier bearings. Is it something I should be able to do? The kit also came with shims. I've got a buddy who can give me a hand if you think I'll need some help.

Thanks!

Response From nickwarner

You'll need a pinion depth gauge, a hydraulic press, a dial indicator and a torque wrench that can read in inch pounds as torque is applied to it. Its not a simple swap like a wheel bearing, as the correct pinion depth, pinion bearing preload, carrier bearing preload and backlash (the depth of engagement between the ring and pinion gear teeth) must be correct to the .000 of an inch. If it was a carrier bearing or pinion bearing it would make a growling that would steadily increase with speed and load, and would eventually chew the teeth off your ring and pinion gears (go boom at the worst possible time). I'd leave the guts of the carrier alone. If you want, pop off the rear cover and visually inspect the ring gear for damaged teeth. Just have some black RTV to seal the cover back up with and fresh gear lube to refill the diff.

On the upside things could be much worse. You could be doing the intake on a Venture.

Response From Discretesignals

He already has. Most be getting old and the memory is slipping, Nick.

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/General_Discussions_F5/2002_Venture_Overheating_and_Leaking_Coolant_P111840

Response From nickwarner

I do remember, all 3 pages in fact. Figured it would make this seem better in comparison to all the fun he had on the van.

Response From MarineGrunt

Ha! That does make me feel a little better! I talked to my buddy who's a mechanic for Altorfer Cat and he said he has rebuilt a few diffs so will have him give me a hand. From the sounds of it it seems like something I probably shouldn't tackle on my own especially since I've never really messed with it before. If the gears are in fact worn should I just pick up a used rear end or get a new one? Or, is it best to replace all of he guts?

Response From MarineGrunt

I changed the u joints, poured a little autotrak fluid on the slip yoke, and that took care of the chirp and "slack". I read that sometimes the slip yoke will kinda stick. I guess lubing it will sometimes help the problem for about a month so I should know soon if it was the u joints or the slip yoke.
I then decided to change the diff fluid. After pulling the cover and inspecting one of the gears has some chips on the tip of each tooth. It's the small gear that is on top on the inside of the cylinder deal. (Sorry for the poor explanation, don't know much about diffs) Can the gear be purchased separately or do you have to buy the whole kit? How difficult is it to change? If I replace the gears should I go ahead with carrier and pinion bearings?

Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

Sounds like you're talking about the spider gears. The kind of damage you are describing indicates some serious issues and it likely has extensive damage. Short cutting this would be a big mistake.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks Hammer.....I definitely don't wanna shortcut. Could there be something besides the diff that caused this? What do you recommend? Do you think I should rebuild the diff or buy a used one? I have the kit for the carrier and pinion bearings already so would just have to buy the gears. I saw a kit online for around $250. I do have a buddy who has rebuilt diffs who will be able to help if need be.

This truck only has 80,000 miles and I got it for $4200 so I don't mind putting money into it. Used or rebuilt? What do you think? Any other recommendations? I will take it to a mechanic if that's what you think needs to be done.

Response From Hammer Time

Rebuilt is always better but it depends on what you can afford. I'll let DS take this. He can get more specific than me.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks to both of you....DS....yes, from looking at your picture I would say it does. The gear that has chips was in the area towards the top of the picture where that little squiggly line is but the gear on mine looks different. The teeth are point straight out. My diff looks a little different but i'm guessing the picture was to just show me the governor locking..um...thingy?

Thanks again....really appreciate the help.

Response From MarineGrunt

What do ya think DS? Should it be completely rebuilt or should I pick one up from the junk yard? Any idea what caused the chipped teeth? If I do rebuild is there anything else that should also be replaced at the same time such as wheel bearings, carrier bearings, pinion bearings, etc?

Thank you for your time!

Response From Hammer Time

All the bearings should be automatic in a rebuild.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks Double J...Ya know I read about that nickel plated slip yoke before I took it to the dealership for them to diagnose it. After they looked at the truck they said it was normal where and tear and could be multiple things causing it. I then spoke with the mechanic myself. I mentioned about the aftermarket nickel plated slip yoke and he said "nope, I checked the slip yoke and it was fine". I saw him pull the rear section of the driveshaft so I know he checked it. When I replaces the u joints the other day I also lubed the slip yoke which I've heard that will temporarily take care of it. I almost wish I would've waited on the lube just to see if the u joints took care of it. I kinda think it was the lube. I think after I take care of the diff I'll go ahead and replace the slip yoke so I don't have to worry about it. I heard the lube on the slip yoke only lasts about a month so I guess I could wait and see. I have to get the diff taken care of before I do anything. I'll probably take care of it next weekend.

One more question, how do I know what gears to buy? Is the rear end labeled somewhere?

Thanks!

Response From Double J

Way back in the beginning ,Well after the Big Bang and prior to the nickel plated Yoke,
The 'fix' per the TSB at the time was to lube it.
Mostly all of 'em came back for repeat 'lube jobs'.....(well all the ones under warranty did or ones that had prior repairs under warranty.)
Needless to say there were a lot of angry GM owners ( I'll bet that statement has never been said before,LOL)
Replace the Yoke or it'll be back.


Funny ,when a vehicle is under the parameters of the warranty how people get very angry and demand a fix,yada,yada,yada
But when its out of warranty and they have to pay,they have no problem 'living with it'
That wasnt directed at you

Response From MarineGrunt

Only problem with the pinion gauge is that I have to learn how to use it first!

Definitely getting the nickel plated slip yoke. I wouldn't have any idea about warranty issues due to the fact I've never owned a vehicle with less than 36,000 miles! I wouldn't know what to do with myself if I bought a vehicle that didn't need some sort of work done! It's amazing how much money you can save if you find a vehicle that just needs a few basic things done to it. The few things on this truck ended up being a little more than basic but I can deal with that considering what I paid for it.

Thanks for bringing up that slip yoke Double J...I read about it but then swept that idea under the rug after a GM mechanic told me the slip yoke was fine and it didn't need the nickel plated one. I did wonder if maybe GM mechanics were told to blame the issue on normal wear and tear since there are so many complaints about the chirp and clunk. I'm not one of those big conspiracy theory guys but it did cross my mind.

Response From Double J




I did wonder if maybe GM mechanics were told to blame the issue on normal wear and tear since there are so many complaints about the chirp and clunk. I'm not one of those big conspiracy theory guys but it did cross my mind.




No,not at all.

Contrary to popular belief, Dealers and Dealership mechanics arent out to rip people off,hide warranty info,string it along until its out of warranty.etc,etc.
As a matter of fact ,its quite the opposite.
I worked at GM Dealers,where we took a lot of pride in our work. I've seen GM do their fair share of Goodwill waranty repairs,plenty to those who didn't even have it coming.And not just the small stuff,engines,transmissions,etc.I can aver strongly that they do not instruct their mechanics/techs to do anything other that whats right,period!
They try very hard to keep their customers in that buying circle.
Of course there is always a stray butthole or two but thats certainly not the norm.
Rarely,but it does happen,you'll get a tech that doesnt want to do a particular job so he'll either not say anything or just say,no problem found

I'll tell you what does seem to get dealers a bad rap is they way that service work is dispatched.
The way that i like and seems to work the best is with one centralized dispatcher who deles out the work to all the techs.
One who has the knowledge which tech is the most qualified for a certain job.He also has to know when a job turns into more that the first tech he gave it to can handle ,pull it and get another guy on it

The other way that work gets dispatched is thru each service writer/advisor/consultant or whatever they call them this week.
Each writer has his/her own techs to use and a lot of times due to availability,the wrong guy will definitely get a job that he normally would not have in a properly dispatched shop.

I've worked in Independent shops,owned my own and worked at dealerships.
Over 45 years,never heard of anyone being told cover anything up.

Now GM is also smart with their money and likes to spend theirs they same way we like to spend our own.
But the General does have a heart of gold.

Response From MarineGrunt

That's really comforting to hear that. I've only used the dealership, or any shop, a handful of times and have never had any issues with them. I just kind of figured if little ole me had heard about the nickel plated slip yoke that the tech would've known. I mentioned it to him when I was talking to him afterwards and he kind of looked ag me like he had never heard of it. Like I said tho, I've never had any issues with them and I don't consider my last appointment to be an issue. Heck, maybe the u joints took care of the problem. I guess I'll know once that lube wears off although I might just go ahead and replace it now just so it's done.

Could that slip yoke issue have causes the damage to the diff?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Could that slip yoke issue have causes the damage to the diff?"

Long thread - sorry if already mentioned. Is this slip yoke an ordinary splined shaft just to allow the free length of shaft to adjust some to the assorted loads AND gets stuck/sticky from lube breaking down? If those type things wherever get stuck tight it would put forces on things not intended with assorted potential problems.

If the original fix that was temporary didn't last by just lubing it then I would think the area is way too subject to washing out the lube. If the upgraded parts solve this I think it would be very important. Slipping splined shafts have been in use for light years many had a grease fitting. I was always told now so long ago to NOT overdo greasing the greasable by grease gun types. I've also used insanely expensive Marine (as in boating) grade greases that just don't wash out so easily.

Simply have not had surprise problems even if there was a faulty design perhaps because of that. IDK? I really mean I don't know but haven't had a problem seeming so common with such things and if it was that simple it wouldn't have become apparently such an issue with these.

Sorry to poke my nose in but want to know what the exact permanant solution is and what prevents it and mostly prevent bigger problems.

Keep at it,

T

Response From MarineGrunt

Tom, I changed both u joints and lubed the slip yoke. That seemed to take care of it. After some replies it sounds like it was the lube that took care of it. I am going to replace the slip yoke with the nickel plate one so I will let you know the results. I have read that even with the nickel yoke that the problem sometimes returns. All we can do is try. The only place you can get it is through GM and costs close to $200! Ouch! I knew I was going to have to put some money into this truck so it doesn't hurt as much. It will be one nice truck once I'm finished.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I come from another planet sometimes - smile. With this crap and history of temp solutions and now a part with improved metal to solve it longer term I wonder if some kind of 'electrical galvanic corrosion' (sp??) something is attacking this spot? Does the metal of the differential show that it is grounded when tested with a test light as silly as running a long wire to test light to the metal of it? Test might be ok but might be intermittent ground. All thru vehicles ground straps are placed body to engine, even exhaust to body or frame and all thru as moving parts are frequently isolated by rubber parts, grease seals, mounts or grease itself.

For the waste of a few more bucks I'd consider putting a plain braided ground strap from differential to frame carefully placed out of any harm of heat or moving parts. Just a brain fart reason why this seems to be a common problem

Tom

Response From MarineGrunt

With all of the engineers GM has you would think they could figure it out. I'll tell you what, sometimes a simple brain fart idea and take care of the biggest problems! Once I get the new slip yoke and diff taken care I think I'll try your brain fart idea! You never know.

We are out of town right now and I'm chomping at the bit to get back home to get going on everything. Heck, I just want to get back home so I can figure out which rear end I have so I can start ordering parts!

DS may have already told me this, but I was browsing the net and came across an exploded view of a posi and I think it's the pinion gears that are chipped. Are these also called spider gears? Can all of these be replaced or do you have to buy the whole unit?

Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

The pinion gear is the main shaft attached to the yoke and driveshaft. The spider gears are the small side gears in the cluster.
This picture is not a limited slip but still shows you the gears.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks for the picture HT. Spider gears it is. The gear that I have that is chipped is the smaller one on the right in the picture. I'm assuming that the smaller one right across from it is also chipped.

Response From MarineGrunt

Is there a way to tell what diff I have? I mean I know it's the 3.73 posi but I'm seeing "30 spline 8.5/8.6 inch" or "28 spline 7.5 inch" etc. I also see where some say 10 bolt, 12 bolt, etc. Do I have to pull the cover to count splines, bolt pattern, etc or is there another way to figure that out?

Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

The RPO codes don't get into that much detail. Thew bolt count is just counting the bolts on the back cover. You would have to pull the yoke off to count the splines and you would have to removed the ring gear to measure it.

Maybe DS has a good way to ID it. I don't do a lot of them.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks HT...that definitely helps to get me going in the right direction. I wonder if calling the dealership could help. I just hate to call and ask for information if I'm not going to have them do the work.

Response From Discretesignals

If you buying parts from them, they won't mind.
Did your friend have a look at it yet?

I'm just still curious why you want to overhaul the entire rear end for a chipped spider. The ring and pinion are probably still good if your backlash is within specifications.

You'll have to remove the carrier to get the spiders and you can do your carrier bearing inspection then. If you find you have bearings or races with problems, then you remove the pinion and inspect its races and bearings. If the pinion bearings are bad, they usually make grinding noises while driving that can be pinpointed with a mechanic's stethoscope.

Most of the time ring and pinions go bad from running with no fluid or they just become slap worn out which isn't very common.

If you really want to replace the spider gears or bearings, I suggest you go dealer. I personally ran into a couple of rear end jobs where the aftermarket bearing tolerances where different and threw off the contact pattern with makes it a nightmare because you basically have to set up the rear end from scratch.

Response From Hammer Time

He's doing it because I advised him to. Once those chips and grit start floating around, none of the bearings can be trusted and bearing are all I was referring to when I advised to go through it.

Response From MarineGrunt

I figured it's something that should be done. They are some pretty big chips. I'm not hearing any noises tho and it feels fine while driving. Maybe I'll drop the cover and take some pictures to post so I can see what everyone thinks. I just kind of assumed they needed replaced.

My buddy is out of town for another 3 weeks so if it does need done I'll either have to wait or attempt it myself. I looked at the steps on alldata and it looks like something I could possibly do. I do realize that things always look easier on paper tho.

Hopefully I can get some pictures up tomorrow. I'd appreciate it if you guys would take a look. I trust all the advice I get here and it would make me feel better knowing you see what I see.

Thanks for all the help and advice.

Response From Hammer Time

Do you have a press with all the adapters? All those bearings are pressed.

Response From MarineGrunt

My buddy has a press. I think I'm just gonna wait until he gets home and take care of it all then. I'd assume just rebuild the whole diff and be done with it. I personally can't say for sure but with the way the spider gears look it's just a matter of time. Some of the teeth are missing a whole chunk out of the center so not so sure I should've called them chips. I'll see what kind of pictures I can take. If not tomorrow hopefully Friday.

Thanks Hammer

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's not GM specific but huge as they are they absolutely have made MONSTER errors that some untold # of people signed off as all OK and things got produced by the zillions all wrong. It happens.

I just find that repeat issues with something so freaking basic could easily have something that stupid that all the CAD/CAM pin-heads missed and can't figure out unless a computer warning comes shooting out at them!

I'm in a rust/corrosion capitol of the world with road salts in heavy use and Atlantic Ocean as our boating playground, salt water of course. Tons of salt water boating and marine repair under my belt. Amazing the lengths a boat/yacht goes thru guarding itself from this I'll call it galvanic corrosion when just minor electrical charges get to metals need canceling that effect. Boats routinely use sacrificial zincs all over the place for submerged metals that if not maintained monster yacht or smaller boat's drive and steering gear is at wild risk without paying attention.


Sorry to beat this up but my primary car and all others like it has a factory ground strap at end hanger of tailpipe - all OE. One thing you can count on is that no car maker spends a dime on something you don't see if there wasn't a good reason!

Still out there and noted is simple trailer wiring with a specific ground wire to a metal trailer on a metal ball isn't enough for sustained ground for the simplest lighting for a brush trailer. I see them blinking away as the ball and recieving hitch loses momentary contact not involved with this corrosion lube issue but proves that things need to make the full loop from and back to battery. Silly things get overlooked. Some just break that should be there and still work for testing so don't catch notice so easily.

Stuff happens,

T

Response From Discretesignals

I imagine if the slip yoke was binding and caused pressure to be put onto the pinion flange, it could burn up the outer pinion bearing. I don't see it damaging spider gears though. Then you would think it would also cause transmission problems because it would take the end play out of the transmission internally components.

Ford truck have that problem too. They actually have a TSB that states to put PTFE grease on the splines.

Response From nickwarner

Teamwork is paying off it seems. I think J is onto your chirp fix, and you had another issue about to rear its head that you didn't know about. As HT said, all bearings must go. I do the wheel bearings as well because pieces that have chipped off are suspended in the oil and travel all over, just like in an engine. You've got a friend who does these a lot and will have the right tools. Rebuilding a rear end isn't hard if you know what you're doing, and with your appetite for learning I'm sure you'll be watching him do it and explain it to you. If you get a junkyard rear end you'd be rolling the dice. With a friend helping you its not costing you the labor of a regular shop, nor the parts markup and you'd be better off investing in the rebuild and never worrying about it again. When all is said and done fill it up with a quality synthetic gear lube and drive it. There is no break-in period on a rear end like a rebuilt engine would have.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks Nick....this forum is great! Are all rear ends the same on 2003 Gmc Sierra 1500with ext. Cab 4x4 4.8? Just wondering how to figure out which gear kit I need.

Response From Discretesignals

I'm just surprised that this rear end is worn out enough already to warrant an overhaul. When carrier bearings or pinion bearings go bad, you usually hear grinding or droning noises. How many Dodge Ram Pickups with corporate rear ends have you seen whining going down the road...lol. When ring and pinion gears wear out you get excessive backlash. Excessive backlash causes the clunking noises when you put it into gear. You can check for excessive back lash with a dial indicator. You can also check the tooth contact pattern with persian blue.

When you start replacing ring and pinion sets, you have to set it up using special tools to determine pinion depth. Then there is the hassle of carrier bearing preload and you need special shims because you can't reuse the cast iron ones that come in the rear end from the factory. Setting up rear ends is an art and I don't know too many people that do it correctly.

If it were my rear end, I would definitely make checks to be sure it is worn out. Some differential pinion/side (spider) gear chipping at the edges is normal. if it was a tooth chipped off, heavy scoring, or cracked, it is definitely time for replacement. Has your friend that does rear end work looked it? If you really want to replace pinion and side gears in the differential, I am sure you can order them from the dealer. I personally haven't had a gov lock apart before, but you really should get the service information and review it.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks DS....when driving it feels fine. The clunking and chirping.went away after I replaces.the u joints and lubes the slip yoke. My buddy has not looked at it yet. I called him this morning and he's gonna be out of town for a month for some training. When we get home Tuesday maybe I'll see if I can get a good picture and post it. I'm not so sure you'd call them chips but rather chunks. Maybe 1/8"-3/16" or so. They are not tiny by any means. I do have a pinion depth gauge that I got when my grandpa passed away but never have used it. I think I will take your advice by reviewing the service manual and see if it's something I think I can at least attempt. Worst case scenario is that I'd have to wait for my buddy to get back in town or tow it to a shop. Actually, worst case is I screw something up and I ruin the new gears I put in. I'm always up for a challenge so we will see. Time to do some reviewing.

Hope everyone has a great weekend.

Response From Hammer Time

I do have a pinion depth gauge

Man, I don't even have one of them!!!!!

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

There is a TSB on the noise

Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke) #01-04-17-004B - (Jan 5, 2005)

1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade (Old Style)

2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV

1996-1999 Chevrolet 1500 Series Extended Cab Short Box Pickup (Old Style)

1996-1999 Chevrolet 1500 Series Regular Cab Pickup and Utility Models (Old Style)

1999-2002 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab Short Box (New Style)

1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Series Regular Cab (New Style)

2000-2004 Chevrolet 1500 Series Avalanche, Suburban and Tahoe

2001-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500/3500 Series Regular Cab with Long Bed or Extended Cab (New Style)

2001-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 Series Crew Cab, Short Box (New Style)

1996-1999 GMC 1500 Series Extended Cab Short Box Pickup (Old Style)

1996-1999 GMC 1500 Series Regular Cab Pickup and Utility Models (Old Style)

1999-2002 GMC Sierra Extended Cab Short Box (New Style)

1999-2004 GMC Sierra 1500 Series Regular Cab (New Style)

2000-2004 GMC 1500 Series Yukon, Yukon XL

2001-2004 GMC Sierra 2500/3500 Series Regular Cab with Long Bed or Extended Cab (New Style)

2001-2004 GMC Sierra 2500 Series Crew Cab, Short Box (New Style)

2003-2005 HUMMER H2

with Four Wheel Drive (4WD) or All Wheel Drive (AWD) and One-Piece Propeller Shaft ONLY

This bulletin is being revised to add Cadillac Escalade (Old Style) and HUMMER H2 to the Models section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-17-004A (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).

Condition

Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.

Cause

A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the driveshaft slip yoke may cause this condition.

Diagnostic Tips

There are several resources in the electronic Service Information System which can provide the technician with information on diagnosis and repair of clunk conditions, and fix the customer's vehicle right the first time without unnecessary parts replacement. Some of the documents available in SI include:
• Symptoms - Propeller Shaft (SI Document ID #697266)
• Knock or Clunk Noise (SI Document ID #697290)
• Rear Drive Axle Noises (SI Document ID #700580)
• Launch Shudder/Vibration on Acceleration (Replace Propeller Shaft and Install a New Pinion Flange/Seal), Bulletin #02-04-17-001
• Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise, Bulletin #01-07-30-042
• Driveline Clunk When Stopping (Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Bulletin #03-07-30-028

Correction

Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel-plated slip yoke. See the parts table below.

Parts

12479383 Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (without u-joint) , Nickel Plated. Must Be Ordered With U-Joint Kit P/N 12479126 - 4WD/AWD 1500 Series Suburban, Avalanche, Yukon XL, Escalade EXT, Escalade ESV with AWD (New Style)

12479126 U Joint Kit: 4WD 1500 Series Suburban, Avalanche, Yukon XL) (Escalade EXT, Escalade ESV with AWD (New Style)

Response From Discretesignals

Does this have governor locking differential?

EMISSIONS????

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From JakeM717 on EMISSIONS????

2006 Cadillac Escalade ESV
6.0 Litre V8, AWD
Standard Edition.

Hello: Stopped to refuel a few weeks ago. After refueling, it started kind of rough. Actually had to hit the gas to get it to catch. Finally started and it runs and starts great now, but the "Check Engine" light has come on.

Had to get a Massachusetts Inspection Sticker and was rejected. A friend has a diagnostic computer, hooked it up and said it was the gas cap. Replaced that, reset the codes, drove it for 150 miles, NO sticker,

Had to refuel, again tough start, check engine light came back on. New diagnostic check, says canister purge valve, replaced that. Resete the codes again, drove it for 150 miles, still, no good..

I'm kind of at wits end., anyone have any idea what it might be or what is causing it. I have to believe it's caused by the refueling and starting roughly...

Again, once it starts, it runs great, and starts great, just that initial start right after refueling...

HELP!!!

Response From Discretesignals

The valve you changed in the rear is the canister vent valve. That won't cause that code to show up.

The one you want to check out in the canister purge valve up at the engine. Unplug the electrical connector from the valve. Then remove the hose that goes to the charcoal canister from the valve. Start the engine and feel for vacuum on the end of the valve. If you feel vacuum, replace the purge valve.

If the purge valve is stuck open when your refueling the engine, fuel vapors go into the intake manifold. When you start the engine, it will run extremely rich causing your rough idle.

There are only two things that can cause that code and my guess is the purge valve is faulty. The only other thing that can cause that code is the fuel tank pressure sensor which wouldn't cause the symptoms you get after refueling.

The purge solenoid is located on
top of the intake right behind the throttle body.

Response From JakeM717 Top Rated Answer

Thanks for your input. I'll check it out first thing Monday morning.. Hope it works..
Really tired of shelling out $$$ into this vehicle..

I'll say this, last Caddy I'll ever buy. Nothing but trouble since day 1... Power windows, tranny, wiper motor, rear axle bearing...All covered under warranty when new, but 78,000 for a new vehicle and all those problems. Time for a Navigator L series.. Maybe Ford/Lincoln has it together. Can't be worse than the Caddy...

Response From Discretesignals

What is the trouble code number?

Response From JakeM717

P0496 Says its emissions, purge valve. I replaced the purge valve.

Just found out, there are 2 of them. 1 in the rear, which I changed and 1 under the hood. I'll do that today and let you know how I made out...

Thanks

Jake

Response From Hammer Time

Having a code referring to a specific component does not mean replace the component. It gives you specific details about the problem that require further diagnosis to determine the cause. This code doesn't even name a specific component. the code means "Evaporative emissions flow during non purge"

Response From JakeM717

No argument on what you said Hammer.

So what would your next step be??

I'm doing this stuff in the garage at my house. I don't have access to all the modern technology that some do. Canister purge valves are purchased on line for 25. to 30. Not a huge expense to change them out...

Response From Hammer Time

You can throw parts at it if you want but it will probably be futile. This is not a DIY type diagnosis. You need a scan tool and smoke machine just for starters.

Response From JakeM717

Well I guess I'd rather throw parts at it Hammer. I see your ASE and guessing you work for either a dealer or own your own shop. Either way, I started at the Caddy dealer, after 2 hours at 100 per hour, I got fed up as they still couldn't tell me what the issue was. So for 200. I paid them, I can buy and replace a lot of parts. The wheels on the industry machine keep rolling. Since I was 16 and bought my first car, they've all been GM, I've never owned another make. Actually spent 2 weeks on Caddy Forum prior to this one. Bottom line..
It's time for a Lincoln or Ford, at least they didn't take our money to bail them out, and seem to have a bead on things.
GM, MORONS!!! They still don't get it...