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Showing 1 - 10 of 12,285 Products.

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Textar
2004 Audi A6 Quattro Disc Brake Pad Set Textar - with Shims

P311-2612136    W0133-1821052  New

Qty:
$31.45
Textar Disc Brake Pad Set
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • with Shims
Brand: Textar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Audi A6 Quattro
Bosal
Qty:
$360.00
Bosal Catalytic Converter  Right
  • VW/audi 98-02 2.8 v6 right w/o gaskets
  • Bosal Federal Direct-Fit Standard Load OBDII Catalytic Converter
Brand: Bosal
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Position
2001 - Audi A6 Quattro Automatic Right
Bosal
Qty:
$307.19
Bosal Exhaust Muffler Assembly  Center
  • Audi A6 00-01
  • Central Silencer
  • Bosal Direct-Fit Exhaust Muffler Assembly
Brand: Bosal
Position: Center
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Audi A6 Quattro Center V 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2671
Bosal
Qty:
$307.19
Bosal Exhaust Muffler Assembly  Center
  • Audi A6 00-01
  • Bosal Direct-Fit Exhaust Muffler Assembly
Brand: Bosal
Position: Center
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Audi A6 Quattro Center V 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2671
Elth
2004 Audi A6 Quattro Engine Coolant Temperature Sender Elth - with O-Ring

P311-1A6B10E    W0133-1623711  New

Qty:
$14.31
Elth Engine Coolant Temperature Sender
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 4-Pin - Green - 20mm - Dual Temperature Sender / Auxiliary Fan Switch.
  • with O-Ring
Brand: Elth
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Audi A6 Quattro
Elth
1999 Audi A6 Quattro Engine Coolant Temperature Sender Elth - with O-Ring

P311-1A6B10E    W0133-1623711  New

Qty:
$14.31
Elth Engine Coolant Temperature Sender
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Chas: 200001-, 4-Pin - Green - 20mm - Dual Temperature Sender / Auxiliary Fan Switch.
  • with O-Ring
Brand: Elth
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Chassis Range
1999 - Audi A6 Quattro 200001 and up
Elth
1999 Audi A6 Quattro Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Elth - with O-Ring

P311-1A6B10E    W0133-1623711  New

Qty:
$14.31
Elth Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Chas: 200001-, 4-Pin - Green - 20mm - Dual Temperature Sender / Auxiliary Fan Switch.
  • with O-Ring
Brand: Elth
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Chassis Range
1999 - Audi A6 Quattro 200001 and up
Elth
2004 Audi A6 Quattro Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Elth - with O-Ring

P311-1A6B10E    W0133-1623711  New

Qty:
$14.31
Elth Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 4-Pin - Green - 20mm - Dual Temperature Sender / Auxiliary Fan Switch.
  • with O-Ring
Brand: Elth
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Audi A6 Quattro
Elring
2014 Audi A6 Quattro Engine Expansion Plug Elring

P311-57479C2    W0133-1915637  New

Qty:
$8.14
Elring Engine Expansion Plug
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Location-Cylinder Head, 26mm
Brand: Elring
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2014 - Audi A6 Quattro Supercharged
HJS
2017 Audi A6 Quattro Exhaust Clamp 6 Cyl 3.0L HJS

P311-25F982D    W0133-1843621  New

Qty:
$26.76
HJS Exhaust Clamp
  • Dual Clip Type 60x95mm
Brand: HJS
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2017 - Audi A6 Quattro V 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2995

Showing 1 - 10 of 12,285 Products.


Latest Audi A6 Quattro Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Audi Exhaust Fix help

Showing 8 out of 8 Posts
Question From whiskeywarden on Audi Exhaust Fix help

My 1995 A6 Quattro wagon the part of the flange that is part of the pipe has rotted so it can not be reused. Instead of replacing the pipe ($$) I thought I would cut the flange off as well as the lip on the other pipe and replace it with an exhaust clamp or sleeve with c-clamps.

Any pros or con thoughts on this?



1995 Audi A6 Quattro Wagon 180k miles2.8L

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The old soup can repair. Wont last but could (maybe) could be fixed by an exhaust specialty shop and put the new right parts welded on. At best it's still a patch job but would/should cost less than the whole parts it should get but don't expect even that to last too long either.

Just my 2 cents and probably others,

T

Response From Discretesignals

Which flange do you mean? The one between the muffler and resonator or one of the flanges after the catalytic converters?

If the pipe isn't all rotted out, a muffler shop should be able to fix that for you.

Response From whiskeywarden

It is the one right after the cats. Plus there is a cap that has blown apart on the cat that I have to replace.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I'm looking at the diagram of the stock exhaust. I don't know which cat has the broken flange, but as you stated there is a pipe with two clamps where the resonator pipe and pipe after the converter go together.

If the pipe broke off right at the converter can, your going to have to replace the cat and pipe. You should still swing into a muffler shop and have them evaluate what could be done safely and cost effectively to resolve your problem.

Response From whiskeywarden

Here are the attached pictures of my issue

The part needing to be replaced is over $300. In newer models the connections are connected with the exhaust clamps. They are a sleeve with 2 screw downs on the top. (hard to explain) It just seems easy to cut the flange right out and cover the connection with a sleeve.
Reduced 69% 314 x 235 (29.48K) Reduced 69% 314 x 235 (32.66K) Reduced 69% 314 x 235 (29.31K)

Response From Discretesignals

Are those pictures of the flange before one of the converters? The pictures are very small and don't render too much detail, but it looks like the studs are broken. You can torch those out and use bolts and nuts to hold the flange together.

Response From whiskeywarden

The replacement part is $345 (it's an Audi). I saw that other model Audi's have these exhaust clamps that slide over the two pipes and just clamps down over it with 2 screws. That part is about $4.00.

I know it is just a patch but the car has 180k and was given to me free.

1997 Audi electrical problems

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From abann on 1997 Audi electrical problems

I have a 1997 all wheel drive 2.8 liter Audi A6 Quattro with 140,000 miles and i am having some electrical problems. I had some codes pulled up that told me that the Engine/transmission electrical connect 2 open circut was short with power. My power supply terminal voltage was too low. My brake light switch front not plausable signal. Also my check engine light does not come on. There are more smaller things that are wrong electrical like my headlight flicker and click, the heat and air controls black out, my door locks in the back dont work, only the driver side seat warmer works. The biggest problem that Im facing now is that the transmission shifts very hard and doesnt shift gears when climbing hills. This problem happens on and off but its been like this for a few weeks now. Nothing leads up to these problems the car will be running fine and the next time you start it up these things can start happening. Before then it had been a couple months before it happened which makes me think it is electrical. Please give me some advice on what I nned fixed the most or if it is a big problem or an easy fix. Thank You, Aaron

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

From what you've posted it really sounds like you have some ground problems going on. Not the easiest stuff to trace down.

What you can do would be to test the battery and while it's out clean the terminals really good. Check all the body grounds, make sure there are no ground straps hanging loose or broken.

After that the best thing to do would be to write ALL the problems and codes down and go over some wiring diagrams and see if there is any common ground or even power supplies to most or all of the problems and that is the area I would start looking...

Now this is a 13 year old car so it's very possible there is 2 or more things going on but my gut tells me a lot of these problems are tied into one bad ground or shorted circuit....