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FAG
1984 Audi 5000 Wheel Bearing Kit FAG

P311-026AA8F    W0133-1620657  New

Qty:
$65.21
FAG Wheel Bearing Kit
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 75mm Diameter
  • 75mm Diameter
Brand: FAG
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1984 - Audi 5000 Base
FAG
1985 Audi 5000 Wheel Bearing Kit FAG

P311-026AA8F    W0133-1620657  New

Qty:
$65.21
FAG Wheel Bearing Kit
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Chas: -033 840, 75mm Diameter
  • 75mm Diameter
Brand: FAG
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Chassis Range
1985 - Audi 5000 Base up to 033 840
Premium Vision
1983 Audi 5000 Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Right Premium Vision - Pronto Standard - All Seasons

P311-353C180    PR-18  New

XV18

Qty:
$3.68
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Right
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 3
  • Pronto Standard - All Seasons
  • 18
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1983 - Audi 5000 Front Right
Premium Vision
1983 Audi 5000 Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Left Premium Vision - Pronto Standard - All Seasons

P311-353C180    PR-18  New

XV18

Qty:
$3.68
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Left
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 3
  • Pronto Standard - All Seasons
  • 18
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1983 - Audi 5000 Front Left
Premium Vision
1988 Audi 5000 Windshield Wiper Blade - Rear Premium Vision - Pronto Standard - All Seasons

P311-353C180    PR-18  New

XV18

Qty:
$3.68
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Rear
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • With Short Tang Hook Hook 9 X 3
  • Pronto Standard - All Seasons
  • 18
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1988 - Audi 5000 Rear
Premium Vision
1983 Audi 5000 Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Right Premium Vision - Conventional Wiper Blade

P311-353C180    PR-18  New

XV18

Qty:
$3.68
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Right
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 3
  • Conventional Wiper Blade
  • 18
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1983 - Audi 5000 Front Right
Premium Vision
1983 Audi 5000 Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Left Premium Vision - Conventional Wiper Blade

P311-353C180    PR-18  New

XV18

Qty:
$3.68
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Left
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 3
  • Conventional Wiper Blade
  • 18
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1983 - Audi 5000 Front Left
Premium Vision
1986 Audi 5000 Windshield Wiper Blade - Rear Premium Vision - Conventional Wiper Blade

P311-353C180    PR-18  New

XV18

Qty:
$3.68
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Rear
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 3
  • Conventional Wiper Blade
  • 18
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1986 - Audi 5000 Rear
CRP
1988 Audi 5000 Engine Oil Drain Plug Gasket CRP

P311-0AF200F    W0133-1644359  New

Qty:
$3.03
CRP Engine Oil Drain Plug Gasket
  • 14 X 20 Copper
  • 14x20mm Copper
Brand: CRP
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - Audi 5000
Eberspaecher
1985 Audi 5000 Exhaust Clamp Eberspaecher - 50mm x 90mm

P311-0C7F59F    W0133-1634113  New

Qty:
$17.14
Eberspaecher Exhaust Clamp
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Chas: -081 485, Dual Clip Type - 50mm - Resonator to Center Muffler
  • 50mm x 90mm
Brand: Eberspaecher
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Chassis Range
1985 - Audi 5000 DIESEL up to 081 485

Showing 1 - 10 of 2,728 Products.


Latest Audi 5000 Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Audi 5000 cooler fan starts / stops

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From JohnAudi5000s on Audi 5000 cooler fan starts / stops

1987 Audi 5000 S Quattro, 2.3Liter fuel injected 5 cyl - 67,000 miles

Radiator fan starts, then shuts down 5-10 seconds later. Not overheating, but should it cycle on off that quick?

Also, does anyone know where I can get a fuse box cover for this? Or other similar covers?

Response From steve01832

John, does the fan cycle off and on all the time, hot, cold, with the defroster on? Need a little more info please.

Steve

Response From JohnAudi5000s Top Rated Answer

I've only had it running for 45 minutes now, and the radiator fan only turns on at midway point on the temp gauge, then shuts off after 5-10 seconds. As for where the defroster setting is, haven't noticed yet. I don't hear it running at all when I was driving, but I don't think going down the road is a problem, the air flow cools it.

87 Audi 5000 S white smoke as it warms up

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From JohnAudi5000s on 87 Audi 5000 S white smoke as it warms up

1987 Audi 5000 S Quattro, 2.3Liter fuel injected 5 cyl - 67,000 miles
Just got it, it has been sitting for 3 years, ran when parked, and I've had to replace the fuel pump, and it now starts fine, but the problem is after idling for 4 - 5 minutes and warms up white smoke starts coming from behind/ to the rear and below the intake manifold. Starts out as a thin stream, then builds up to a lot of smoke. Then idles rougher.

Response From Hammer Time

Is it consuming any coolant over time?

Response From JohnAudi5000s

Don't know yet; it has been sitting for 3 years, and I've only run it for 10 minutes. Friend suggested could be the seals dried out, but wanted more input.

Response From Hammer Time

Your first step is to pressure test the cooling system to determine if you have any leaks.

Response From JohnAudi5000s Top Rated Answer

I've been pulling all the pine needles out of the engine compartment, and washed it out with a hose, ran it for 45 minutes, and the last of the oil / grass / pine needles / spiderwebs smoked & burned out, and now it seems fine.

I'm so sorry to have been this stupid.

Now I just need to get some new tires, and run a tank of good gas with some fuel injector cleaner thru it, and I should be ready to drive.

Response From Hammer Time

LOL, no problem. Just road test it thoroughly locally before going on any long trips and inspect the tires closely for cracking and dry rot.

Response From chickenhouse

Does it have an odor? Smell like antifreeze or a wire burning?

P0171 and P0174

Showing 2 out of 18 Posts | Show 16 Hidden Posts
Question From highplainsdox on P0171 and P0174

2005 Ford Taurus SE
3.0L V6 - nothing fancy, just the "base" 3.0
Just under 90,000 mi.

I've been getting P0171 and P0174 pretty regularly. It only takes a few drive cycles for the codes to come back in again. My symptoms are: it's "cold blooded" to where I have to "nurse" it when the engine's cold, intermittent rough running at idle, and occasionally (but not often) rough running traveling city streets - up to 45-50 mph. I don't really notice anything at all at highway speeds. This weekend, I found that it was going into Closed Loop long before it should have - IMO. Here is the info at the moment loop status changed from OL-1 to CL-1:

Baro Press: 91 kPa (26.87" Hg)
Ambient Temp: +2 deg C
Cat Temp: 106 deg both banks.
Engine Temp: 120 deg
RPM: 1166
Relative Throttle: 0%
Throttle Pos. Angle: 17.3%
Ctrl Module Voltage: 14008
Fuel Rail Press, Relative to Man Vac: 3531 (pretty constant while running - 353.1 kPa(?) or 51 psi)
Long Term Fuel Trim, both banks: 0% (stayed there throughout the 80-second scan)
Short Term Fuel Trim, both banks: 5.5% (Increased to 66.4% within 15 seconds, stayed there for 6 seconds, then wildly variable. Fluctuates normally after
140 deg engine temp 67 seconds into scan - coincides with beginning to drive at 66 seconds into scan.)
MAF: 1.197 lb/min (appears to respond to changes normally when charting values)

I use AutoTap USB 3.10 with the basic parameters for Ford. Any idea what's going on here?

Thanks in advance,
-Dale

Response From techforfree

Aggggggggggggg...the dreaded ford with the 171/174 codes....does it sound as if theres a vacuum leak when its idling ?If so pay close attn to the intake manifold tuning valve There is an 0ring for a seal and it becomes hard and sucks air and will give you these dreaded codes..but also a faulty pcv valve can cause it,don't rule out manifold gaskets,this is a big problem on a lot of fords but honestly havn't seen it much og the 3.0 engine...Good luck

Response From highplainsdox


Aggggggggggggg...the dreaded ford with the 171/174 codes....does it sound as if theres a vacuum leak when its idling ?If so pay close attn to the intake manifold tuning valve There is an 0ring for a seal and it becomes hard and sucks air and will give you these dreaded codes..but also a faulty pcv valve can cause it,don't rule out manifold gaskets,this is a big problem on a lot of fords but honestly havn't seen it much og the 3.0 engine...Good luck

...as I found out, it was the IMT O-ring. See my follow-up post #15 in this thread. Thanks!

Response From techforfree

the auto manufacturers want all vehicles to go into closed loop as fast as possable,thats the reason for heated 02 sensors..honestly no such thing as to fast.

Response From Sidom

A fuel injected engine with no problems should actually go into closed loop rather quickly. The time you posted is normal. There is no way it's going to wait until the engine is at operating tempature, that would take too long. In open loop the PCM is ignoring the O2 signal and using a base calculation so the emissions would be way too dirty for too long waiting for a 195° coolant temp. You should be getting some good crosscounts so I'm not sure I trust your data (plus the scaling looks wrong for the O2s). If I was getting counts like that with no O2 performance codes, I would probably hook a scope up to the signal wire and get a reading right off the O2.

You can google "criteria for closed loop" and "fuel trims" and should get some good info to read on those subjects.

As for your lean banks 1 & 2, HT posted the common problems for those and that really needs to be looked at 1st. The easiest thing to do is pop the hood and listen for a hissing noise. Find a big vacuum leak and there is your problem. No vacuum leaks and then it gets a little harder.
With these codes pretty much ANYTHING can cause them. The 1st thing you need to narrow down is the cause. Is it too much air, false air or too little fuel?
This is where freeze frame data and your fuel trims come in handy. Freeze frame date is just some basic info the computer saves at the time of the failure. It's there so the tech can see what was going on at the time the code was set and try to duplicate the conditions to get the same failure.

On this one the main PIDs you are going to be looking at is vehicle speed and engine load. A vacuum leak will have it's biggest effect on the trims at idle and almost no effect at high rpm and engine load. Lack of fuel will have its biggest effect on the trims at high rpm and engine load and almost no effect at idle. So in at nutshell, how fast was the car going when the codes set?

If you can't access freeze frame then get a driver, get in the passenger seat, hook up your scanner and go for a spin. You are going to be looking at the LTFT PID and while I haven't found an exact number, with Fords, once the the LTFT gets up over +25%, you are going to set a lean code. On the reverse, when the LTFT goes -25% you are going to get rich codes...

One other common problem on Fords is under reporting MAF sensors. One clue is the baro reading being skewed (there is no baro sensor on this car it's a calculation from the MAF). I'm at sea level so am use to seeing readings of 29.9 or 30.0 ". 26 & under is a red flag and at 1st thought yours was skewed but I see you are close to 4000' where you are at so this is probably a normal reading.

Look for the obvious stuff 1st, if nothing jumps out then you are going to want to narrow it down to air or fuel.

Response From highplainsdox

Thanks, Sidom. Good info there. I will go after the vacuum leak(s). I've got some high freq loss in my hearing, so may have to get someone with better ears to help.

The LTFT is around 3% - 8.6% at about 55 mph. Symptoms I mention are at the low end of the speedometer - less than 30mph or so. No freeze frame data shows up, but it does have the capability to show FF. No crosscounts available. (That info is in the "enhanced" parameters. I just have the basic stuff for Ford.) The data I furnished was during warmup while sitting still. Yes, I am at about 3600'.

At 56 mph and 70% TPS, Absolute Load is 71% and Calculated Load is 97%.

Here's a section of a chart from a recent session to illustrate.



Thanks again for your help.
-Dale

Response From Hammer Time


The LTFT is around 3% - 8.6% at about 55 mph.

I have to wonder about some of this data. The codes you are getting are by definition telling you that the trims have reached their limits during at least some point in history. I would really wonder why I am getting normal trim readings while also getting PO171 and PO174 codes being set.

PS: see if you can reduce the size of your images a little bit so they won't make the page so wide. It's really hard to scroll left to right to read and it's because of the oversized image.

Response From highplainsdox

My readings seem to coincide with what Sidom was saying above with respect to a vacuum leak. You guys are on the same page. All I need to do now is get out there and try to hunt it down. :)

I'll remember to resize my charts in the future. Thanks, HT.

Response From Sidom

Out of all the data you've posted, I really haven't seen any of the PIDs I would really be looking at for lean or rich codes. If you are limited to 4 PIDs, the ones I would be looking at would be STFT, LTFT, ENGINE LOAD, RPM/vehicle speed.

Until you can see your LTFTs go in to the 20% range you aren't in the problem area. I haven't see a Ford yet that will code in the teens. This is where freeze frame data can be so helpful. Right now you having to try this condition and that one to find the area. With FF you can see temp, speed, load, etc. 1/2 the battle is finding out when it's failing after that, then its "what hell is causing this"..

I haven't had a problem with the Taurus but the 4.0 Explorers had a plenum issue with gaskets and bolt and would only code after a cold soak (sat all night). After they warmed up, everything expanded, sealed and the trims would come in line for the rest of the day. So you'd think, I'll just look at the trims after a cold soak and that will tell me.....

That would be too easy.....

On Fords, part of their cold start strategy the is trims go high, real high for a little bit, which makes sense, this means the PCM is adding fuel which you want when it's cold so if you go that route you have to be real familiar with what normal high trims look like and what trims that are too high for too long and will set a code look like. Honestly in these cases where FF is pointing to a cold soak problem, I just smoke the manifold after it's sat all night. Its much quicker and more accurate (unless an installer does me a favor and warms the car up for me before I get there....that's always a fun phone call for the SA ).

So 1st I'm assuming you already followed HTs original advise and looked for the obvious leaks, looking at the PCV hose very carefully and making sure then snorkel was hooked up to the throttle body with no cracks or splits, no obvious exhaust leaks....the basics... If all the is done then you have to find the spot where the LTFTs go over 20% until you do that, you're in the wrong area and chasing ghosts......

I did see a TSB for the 4V 3.0 for an O ring problem on the intake but that is for the S engine not the U engine and IIRC you said you had the U.

Response From highplainsdox Top Rated Answer

I fixed this problem about a week ago - finally! Had trouble finding the time to chase it down. My LTFT soared and pegged out at 25% on both banks over these few months since my original post.

I found the problem to be a vacuum leak at the o-ring on the IMT Valve - Intake Manifold Tuning Valve. Couldn't nail it down until I ran across a TSB (#08-12-4) and followed its lead. I found this on a Sunday and had to go to a local auto parts store and hunt down a gasket/O-ring. I found one for a 1985 Audi 5000 Turbo's thermostat housing that worked great. (ROL Gasket number WO8413-001) A test drive under various conditions with scan my tool (ATUSB 3.1) attached and recording data showed that the LTFT is back to 0 again on both banks. All else appears normal.

FWIW, this Taurus is my first Ford product, so I'm not all that familiar with all of its ins-and-outs. Until this car, I was a life-long GM owner. Didn't know the IMT Valve existed, or what its purpose is. I suspect that it's to keep the volume of air constant between both banks - just a wild guess.

Thanks for all the info you guys have passed on here. I appreciate it.

Response From Hammer Time

We see that combination of codes a lot of Fords and it's nearly always caused by a bad vacuum leak. That's not the only possible cause but the most common. Check all the main vacuum feed lines. Listen for a hissing noise. They commonly suck holes right through the rubber connectors at the source or in other parts of the PCV system.

Response From highplainsdox

Thanks. I will look for one.

Will a vaccuum leak also cause it to go into Closed Loop so soon?

Thanks again,
-Dale

Response From Hammer Time

Too soon? Never heard of that happening for any reason.

Response From highplainsdox

Cat Temp: 106 deg both banks.
Engine Temp: 120 deg

I had the understanding that Closed Loop happens after the cat temp, O2 temp, and engine temp come up to operating temp. At the time it went CL-1, the O2 sensors were still bottomed out. At the very least, it's not supposed to go CL until after the O2's start swinging, is it? Here, the marker is positioned at the first scan in Closed Loop. All of the data in my first post apply to this marker position.



Response From Hammer Time

My understanding for closed loop was

  1. Engine temperature
  2. 0/2 response
  3. Internal timer expire

Response From highplainsdox

Engine temp at the marker was only 120 deg and the O2 response was nil at the time of going Closed Loop. Don't know what the timer is set at, but I would think it's more than 13 seconds of runtime. Haven't found the criteria yet. Struck me as being a little strange.

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know. I would suspect either your scan tool is giving you bad info about the loop status or there is a problem with the PCM. Have you got a different scanner to try?

Response From highplainsdox

No, I don't have another one. This one was just upgraded at the factory very recently.