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The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • BBB Industries
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    TYC Products

Best Selling Genuine Volvo Alternators

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Bosch
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Volvo Replacement Alternator Parts

We stock Alternator parts for most Volvo models, including C30, C70, S40, S60, S70, S80, S90, V40, V50, V70, V90, XC70, XC90, 240, 242, 244, 245, 740, 760, 850, 940, 960.

Bosch
1995 Volvo 940 Alternator 4 Cyl 2.3L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-11493D7    AL157X  Remanufactured

1363493 , 3544497 , 1363511 , 1398327

Qty:
$50.00 $142.92
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; Actual OE part 80 A
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 80
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • External Fan Included: Yes
    • External Regulator Included: Yes
    • Fan Type: External
    • New Or Remanufacured: Remanufactured
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo, Nd
    • Packaging: Box
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 1
    • Plug Type: 381
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 0
    • Pulley Included: No
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 0
    • Pulley Type: Na
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): Na
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Volvo 940 Wagon Naturally Aspirated L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2316
Bosch
1989 Volvo 245 Alternator 4 Cyl 2.3L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-11493D7    AL157X  Remanufactured

1363493 , 3544497 , 1363511 , 1398327

Qty:
$50.00 $142.92
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; Actual OE part
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 80
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • External Fan Included: Yes
    • External Regulator Included: Yes
    • Fan Type: External
    • New Or Remanufacured: Remanufactured
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo, Nd
    • Packaging: Box
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 1
    • Plug Type: 381
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 0
    • Pulley Included: No
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 0
    • Pulley Type: Na
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): Na
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Volvo 245 L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2316
Bosch
1988 Volvo 740 Alternator 4 Cyl 2.3L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-11493D7    AL157X  Remanufactured

1363493 , 3544497 , 1363511 , 1398327

Qty:
$50.00 $142.92
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; Actual OE part For Denso unit 80 A
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 80
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • External Fan Included: Yes
    • External Regulator Included: Yes
    • Fan Type: External
    • New Or Remanufacured: Remanufactured
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo, Nd
    • Packaging: Box
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 1
    • Plug Type: 381
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 0
    • Pulley Included: No
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 0
    • Pulley Type: Na
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): Na
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1988 - Volvo 740 Naturally Aspirated L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2316
Bosch
1988 Volvo 740 Alternator 4 Cyl 2.3L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-11493D7    AL157X  Remanufactured

1363493 , 3544497 , 1363511 , 1398327

Qty:
$50.00 $142.92
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; Actual OE part Bosch, only as replacement for Bosch equipment 80 A
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 80
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • External Fan Included: Yes
    • External Regulator Included: Yes
    • Fan Type: External
    • New Or Remanufacured: Remanufactured
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo, Nd
    • Packaging: Box
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 1
    • Plug Type: 381
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 0
    • Pulley Included: No
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 0
    • Pulley Type: Na
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): Na
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1988 - Volvo 740 Naturally Aspirated L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2316
Bosch
1995 Volvo 940 Alternator 4 Cyl 2.3L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-11493D7    AL157X  Remanufactured

1363493 , 3544497 , 1363511 , 1398327

Qty:
$50.00 $142.92
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; Actual OE part Standard version 80 A
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 80
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • External Fan Included: Yes
    • External Regulator Included: Yes
    • Fan Type: External
    • New Or Remanufacured: Remanufactured
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo, Nd
    • Packaging: Box
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 1
    • Plug Type: 381
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 0
    • Pulley Included: No
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 0
    • Pulley Type: Na
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): Na
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Volvo 940 Sedan Naturally Aspirated L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2316
Bosch
1999 Volvo V70 Alternator 5 Cyl 2.4L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-47E8A37    AL0752X  Remanufactured

9442827 , 5003996 , 8111117

Qty:
$40.00 $210.06
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; Actual OE part 100 A
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 120
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • External Fan Included: Yes
    • External Regulator Included: Yes
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • New Or Remanufacured: Remanufactured
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Packaging: Box
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 10
    • Plug Type: 380
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 6
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 56
    • Pulley Type: 6s
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): 6s
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Volvo V70 Naturally Aspirated L 5 Cyl 2.4L - 2435
Bosch
1997 Volvo 960 Alternator 6 Cyl 2.9L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-47E8A37    AL0752X  Remanufactured

9442827 , 5003996 , 8111117

Qty:
$40.00 $210.06
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; Actual OE part
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 120
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • External Fan Included: Yes
    • External Regulator Included: Yes
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • New Or Remanufacured: Remanufactured
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Packaging: Box
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 10
    • Plug Type: 380
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 6
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 56
    • Pulley Type: 6s
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): 6s
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Volvo 960 L 6 Cyl 2.9L - 2922
Bosch
1998 Volvo V70 Alternator 5 Cyl 2.3L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-47E8A37    AL0752X  Remanufactured

9442827 , 5003996 , 8111117

Qty:
$40.00 $210.06
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; Actual OE part 120 A
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 120
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • External Fan Included: Yes
    • External Regulator Included: Yes
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • New Or Remanufacured: Remanufactured
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Packaging: Box
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 10
    • Plug Type: 380
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 6
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 56
    • Pulley Type: 6s
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): 6s
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Volvo V70 52 L 5 Cyl 2.3L - 2319
Bosch
2003 Volvo V40 Alternator 4 Cyl 1.9L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-41D8C23    AL0820X  Remanufactured

8602710 , 36050262 , 8622186

Qty:
$70.00 $266.66
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; Actual OE part Bosch, only as replacement for Bosch equipment
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 140
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • External Fan Included: Yes
    • External Regulator Included: Yes
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • New Or Remanufacured: Remanufactured
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Packaging: Box
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 2
    • Plug Type: 371
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 6
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 56
    • Pulley Type: 6s
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): 6s-cp
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Counterclockwise
    • Voltage: 12
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Volvo V40 L 4 Cyl 1.9L - 1948
Bosch
2005 Volvo XC90 Alternator 5 Cyl 2.5L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-41D8C23    AL0820X  Remanufactured

8602710 , 36050262 , 8622186

Qty:
$70.00 $266.66
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; Actual OE part 140 A
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 140
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • External Fan Included: Yes
    • External Regulator Included: Yes
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • New Or Remanufacured: Remanufactured
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Packaging: Box
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 2
    • Plug Type: 371
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 6
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 56
    • Pulley Type: 6s
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): 6s-cp
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Counterclockwise
    • Voltage: 12
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Volvo XC90 L 5 Cyl 2.5L - 2521
Bosch
1997 Volvo V90 Alternator 6 Cyl 2.9L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-47E8A37    AL0752X  Remanufactured

9442827 , 5003996 , 8111117

Qty:
$40.00 $210.06
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; Actual OE part Optional
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 120
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • External Fan Included: Yes
    • External Regulator Included: Yes
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • New Or Remanufacured: Remanufactured
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Packaging: Box
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 10
    • Plug Type: 380
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 6
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 56
    • Pulley Type: 6s
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): 6s
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Volvo V90 L 6 Cyl 2.9L - 2917
Bosch
2004 Volvo V40 Alternator 4 Cyl 1.9L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-41D8C23    AL0820X  Remanufactured

8602710 , 36050262 , 8622186

Qty:
$70.00 $266.66
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; Actual OE part
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 140
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • External Fan Included: Yes
    • External Regulator Included: Yes
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • New Or Remanufacured: Remanufactured
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Bo
    • Packaging: Box
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 2
    • Plug Type: 371
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 6
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 56
    • Pulley Type: 6s
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): 6s-cp
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Counterclockwise
    • Voltage: 12
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Volvo V40 L 4 Cyl 1.9L - 1948
Bosch
2007 Volvo V70 Alternator Bosch

P311-1606ED5    W0133-1979815  New

Qty:
$55.00 $466.37
Bosch Alternator
  • Remanufactured
  • ; 140 Amp
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Volvo V70
Bosch
2007 Volvo V70 Alternator Bosch

P311-1606ED5    W0133-1979815  New

Qty:
$55.00 $466.37
Bosch Alternator
  • Remanufactured
  • ; 140 Amp
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Volvo V70
Bosch
2006 Volvo XC90 Alternator 5 Cyl 2.5L Bosch

P311-1606ED5    W0133-1979815  New

Qty:
$55.00 $466.37
Bosch Alternator
  • Remanufactured
  • ; with 140 Amp
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Volvo XC90 L 5 Cyl 2.5L - 2521
Bosch
2006 Volvo XC90 Alternator 5 Cyl 2.5L Bosch

P311-1606ED5    W0133-1979815  New

Qty:
$55.00 $466.37
Bosch Alternator
  • Remanufactured
  • ; with 140 Amp
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Volvo XC90 L 5 Cyl 2.5L - 2521
Bosch
2009 Volvo S60 Alternator Bosch - New

P311-4F2479E    W0133-1914002  New

Qty:
$545.65
Bosch Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • ; 160 Amp
  • New
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Volvo S60
Bosch
2006 Volvo XC90 Alternator 5 Cyl 2.5L Bosch - New

P311-4F2479E    W0133-1914002  New

Qty:
$545.65
Bosch Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • ; with 160 Amp
  • New
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Volvo XC90 L 5 Cyl 2.5L - 2521
Bosch
2005 Volvo S80 Alternator 6 Cyl 2.9L Bosch

P311-5BF0EAB    W0133-1941559  New

Qty:
$871.75
Bosch Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • ; 140 Amp
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Volvo S80 L 6 Cyl 2.9L - 2917
Bosch
2005 Volvo XC90 Alternator 6 Cyl 2.9L Bosch

P311-5BF0EAB    W0133-1941559  New

Qty:
$871.75
Bosch Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • New - Lifetime Warranty
  • ; with 140 Amp
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Volvo XC90 L 6 Cyl 2.9L - 2917

Latest Volvo Repair and Alternator Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Volvo 850 Battery

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From Guest on Volvo 850 Battery

Hi,
My 1995 Volvo 850's battery dies anytime I let it sit for more than a day. The battery and alternator have been checked out and are fine. I've checked to be sure there are no lights on after I turn the car off. Any advice?

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

One easy way to check for a parasitic draw is to disconnect the negative battery cable. Hook up a test light between the negative cable and the negative post on the battery. If the test light glows, unplug fuses one at a time until the light goes out. You have isolated the circuit that is draining the battery. Try this and hit back and we can go further.
Make sure that all doors are closed before doing this test or you will have a false draw.
Steve

Response From darrin

well 2 things come to mind. bad ground or a shorted wire. i'd check both. let me know if this helps.

volvo battery and other warning lights on

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From paulr45 on volvo battery and other warning lights on

2000 volvo s80 2.4 automatic 130000 miles today i was driving my car and the battery light came on several miles later the abs,stc and air bag lights came on cud u tell me is this the alternator and have theese other lights came on due to lack of power in the battery

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Yes, the computers for those systems will shut down when the voltage drops below a certain level.

Idle shaking, is the car worth it?

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From volvo415 on Idle shaking, is the car worth it?

Hi, this is my first time posting on this forum. I am going to describe my problem in as much detail as possible and hopefully someone who really knows about the car tells me something that works for me.

Car: Volvo s80 2001
100k miles

Bought the car of an auction without test driving it for a very cheap price. Started the car, started fine but died suddenly, felt like it lost power. Had to get the car towed to the mechanic from the auction because i had already bought it. Mechanic said alternator is bad, spent bunch of money for the new alternator and the car seem to be fixed. The car was taking a few seconds to turn over and start but nothing else, it drove fine for a few hours, infact drove perfectly. I stopped the car for a minute, still running and loud weird noises started coming out of the speaker, (AC was running high). Turned the car off to stop the loud noises, turned it back on and tried reversing it and felt like the car had no power, like it was about to die any second. So i put it back in parking, turned it off again and tried turning it on, and it wouldn't start. Got the car towed to a volvo dealer, who said that the previous mechanic put the wrong alternator, again i spent a bunch more money at the dealership for the new alternator. IT still takes a few seconds to startup, but it is driving fine again, but suddenly the car starts shaking in idle. Only when its stopped on a signal or something does it shake, but when running, it drives very smooth. Took it another mechanic, he said some plug or sensor is bad and the coil needs to be replaced. Again it seems to be fixed, started up instantly and stops shaking. After a few days, the car starts shaking lightly again in idle, not as violently as earlier but still. Took it back to the mechanic and he said another plug or sensor needs to replaced.

AT this point, i was sick and tired of this car and didn't want to spend anymore money on it. I felt like all the mechanics didn't really care and didn't understand the problem. I dont know what to do with this car, everytime i drove it, it drove very very well, no noise, no shaking while driving. So i feel like the car can still be worth it. But what can or should i do.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

One problem is that you are going to more than one mechanic. You should have taken it back to the first mechanic that installed the alternator. That is considered a comeback and they would have to diagnose it for free.

You bought a Volvo at an auction, so you have to understand that there is a reason it is there. Volvo parts aren't cheap if your living paycheck by paycheck.

Do you have any knowledge of working on Volvo and tooling? If not, your at the mercy of your mechanics.

Response From volvo415


I actually bought the car through a dealer from a dealer auction, where you had to have a dealer card or something. I know, i realized that going to different mechanics was the wrong idea but i felt like each mechanic was ripping me off, so i kept going to different ones.
The amount of money i have spent on it, i want to get it fixed and drive it for at least another year. So someone please help me out here. I know the car won't be fixed without someone looking at it, but the amount of detail i have included, what is your best diagnosis.

Let me include exactly what it says on my invoice, maybe someone can make better diagnosis.

1st time- towed from auction to mechanic, bad alternator, car took a few seconds in turnover to start, but died after a few hours of driving.
volvo dealer- said wrong alternator was put in, and said it will cost 4k dollars to 100% fix it.
3rd time- took the car to a mechanic because it was shaking in idle, taking longer to start, having a longer turnover. This is what i got from the mechanic,

Ignition coil (AA) E371 ------------$45
Spark Plugs (AA) APP3923 --------------$24 for six of them.

The mechanic also wanted me to get "right side half-shaft, tires, control arm bushing (both) and rear pads and rotors. But i didn't.


So after all this, car still shakes while in idle, and when i press on gas lightly, it feels like it will shut off. but press on gas harder, it drives fine. Still having the longer turnover before start problem.

Response From nickwarner


i felt like each mechanic was ripping me off, so i kept going to different ones.

You have no idea about what IS wrong with this or how the system even works, but automatically assume because the car isn't perfect that you were ripped off. You initially bought the car at an auction, which I need not even go into as the others have taken the words out of my mouth. It died out and did not have the battery power to restart so you had it towed. Your first mechanic diagnosed a bad alternator and made the repair needed to make it run.


The amount of money i have spent on it, i want to get it fixed and drive it for at least another year.

A perfectly understandable thing to say. We all want that from our vehicles. Jumping from one shop to another isn't making a lot of sense if you are trying to do it.


volvo dealer- said wrong alternator was put in, and said it will cost 4k dollars to 100% fix it.

I would wonder why you didn't bring it back to the original mechanic who already has your money from the first job and get this remedied. Also, ask Volvo why the alternator is wrong. Are they saying it because it is from a parts store instead of directly from Volvo with a Volvo part number? Why is this a $4000 job for an alternator only? I've never seen one that expensive even with labor in my life. An estimate like that deserves and in fact requires clarification.

3rd time- took the car to a mechanic because it was shaking in idle, taking longer to start, having a longer turnover. This is what i got from the mechanic,

Ignition coil (AA) E371 ------------$45
Spark Plugs (AA) APP3923 --------------$24 for six of them.

So he found weak spark because you needed a tune-up and had a weak coil. While that alone was not all you needed to make this perfect, it was what he was able to find wrong and remedy for you.

The mechanic also wanted me to get "right side half-shaft, tires, control arm bushing (both) and rear pads and rotors. But i didn't.

Ok, this was a very bad move. If that halfshaft breaks you will be stranded with a car that won't move. Inconvenient but not dangerous. The control arm bushings are getting play in them, and if they get any worse are going to make this car handle dangerously and be difficult to control. Last but not least, you are willing to spend $4000 on an alternator to make it run but refuse to do a BRAKE JOB!! That is like walking up to every single person on the same road as you, giving them the finger and saying "I don't feel like keeping my car safe and don't give a damn if your friends and family have to die because of it." You have no right driving something with marginal brakes on a public road. I don't care one bit if it runs like crap until that is fixed. Going is optional, stopping is not.

One thing to bear in mind is that auction cars sit for quite a while not being driven. No telling how long this one sat around. With the ethanol in gas today. it has a third of the storage life of gasoline without the ethanol. You haven't really gotten to drive this very much since you got it, and you might just have some bad gas to work out. Get a bottle of Chevron Techtron additive and a full tank of fresh gas, then run it around a good bit (after you get those brakes put on) and see if it helps. Its not a magic cure, but may give some benefit.

Volvo vehicles are in with the other Euro cars in the way the are built. They use different tools and are designed differently than american and asian cars. As such, you need to be going to a mechanic that specializes in european cars. He is going to have the specialty tools and scanning software along with a familiarity with the particular problems these are known for. Think of us like doctors, some are general practice (basic maintenance, exhausts, brake and suspension), some specialize (driveability techs, transmission techs). So when you have an issue you need the right guy. You wouldn't go to a proctologist to find out why you keep getting headaches right? Even though he went to medical school, the way he is used to diagnosing something would be to say the least unpleasant for you and you may not get the results you want.

You don't have to go to a dealership only. You need to find a shop that specializes in euro cars. The ones that do usually only work on them and nothing else. They make sure their advertising lets you know that this is all they do. There are far too many things that could be causing your problem. None of us are going to be able to tell you with any certainty what is wrong, but we all know you need someone who knows this car line well.

Response From Double J




You wouldn't go to a proctologist to find out why you keep getting headaches right?


I know a couple people that could because their heads are up their a**es!

Response From nickwarner

There are plenty in Washington getting a paycheck right now. A few of them in corporate at my job who might fit in well with them too.

OP: Glad you found a shop that can handle this and I hope it allows you to start enjoying what you have to this point just poured money into without remedy. I'll be interested to hear what they find

Response From volvo415

Thanks for all of your replies, taking the car to a mechanic shop that has good reviews. It's called J&L foreign auto care, i called them and they said they work mostly on foreign cars and that i should bring in my volvo. Lets see how it goes. Thanks again. will post what happened tomorrow.

Response From Hammer Time

I actually bought the car through a dealer from a dealer auction, where you had to have a dealer card or something.

You're missing the whole point here. The point is............... If you are going to take the risk of buying a car like a Volvo at an auction, you had better be very mechanically competent and on Euro cars specifically which you obviously are not.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK, OK. No matter what errors so far let's take things one at a time. It doesn't idle properly and has extended crank time before starting. I have no clue what was going to cost $4,000 over an alternator!

We know things are more costly on this than more common cars plus info available for specifics near impossible for me long done with this wrenching sport. Even back when would refrain from vehicles that would require more specific tools and info that I would never recover so shops tended to either avoid or go nuts and do lots of them.

You do need a shop and tech that deals with this car. It's not rare just a bit of a different bird in some ways. At the moment just basics I don't think you are getting proper fuel delivery at low RPM and really not sure why but could be checked. Hope not but if compression is an issue this is real trouble but need to know if that's a factor and could smooth out at higher RPM.

So, in short here to help but you do need a shop + tech that routinely deals with this car and they are out there. It's never best to guess at what is needed just worse with this and some other cars like it,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

DS hit the nail on the head. It was at an auction for a reason. Pros avoided it already,

T

Response From Discretesignals

Honestly, the only people that should buy cars at public auctions are people that know how to fix cars and salvage yards. You might get lucky and get one that isn't hard to fix, but majority of them are messed up or patched up in some way just to get it off the auction block. I've seen them roll odometers back and/or are full of head gasket sealer. All kinds of shady things go on at those public auctions. That's why you can get them for cheap.

If you have no experience diagnosing and repairing vehicles along with no money to spend on the car, you have no business being there.

That's water under the bridge now. Hopefully someone can figure this one out and it isn't too expensive. You may get lucky, but you really need to find a drive-ability tech that knows how to work Volvos or find a shop that specializes in them. From reading what you wrote it seems the mechanics your taken it to are changing parts and not diagnosing.

volvo electrical problems- can anyone help?

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Nite hawk on volvo electrical problems- can anyone help?

Howdy!
I have a 1980 Volvo 240 series, standard,236,000 km, runs pretty well, but have had minor electrical problems, in the past, every 4-6 months the heater fan fuse would crash, and when replaced work for another 4-6 months.
However we started having alot more serious problems. When I would hit the turn signal, the amp light would come on and buzz and the engine would die, and then it would not want to re-start. checked and changed the battery, tested the alternator, the tester said it was fine.
When it would happen would let it set for bit, and then MAYBE it would start.
IT would crank fine, but no fire or fuel seemed to be getting through. (fuel injected)
Like I said we changed the battery, and wire brushed and greased and tightened the 3 grounds under the hood, and it seemed to run fine, and then one morning on the way to work,hit the turn signal and it died and had to walk home.
Thankfully it was a short distance.
Someone suggested that because it was fuel injected there might be a computer that needed to be re-set, so the battery was un- hooked overnight. we also polished the posts on the inside of the distributor cap. now it seems to be working again for the present time.
However the electrical episodes was sporadic in nature before, so not sure if it is "cured" or not. The only other thing I can think of is that I always plug the cell phone in the cig lighter to charge, ( it said it was charging ok) and wonder if that might be an issue, and haven't plugged it in for a while.
We live several hundred miles from any Volvo dealer, and live in a remote area, and I have to drive long distances to work so as winter approaches , want the car reliable again.
I actually called one volvo dealer asking the parts department if there might be a wiring harness that was available, and was told such a thing didn't exist!!
We argued, as I do know such a thing does exist, and he finally relented and said that they do exist, but only in different sections and would have to have one made up for an older car.
I also noticed that the back window de-icer line in the glass doesn't seem to work anymore. Now I can live with that problem, but the engine dying at an intersection and not wanting to re-start because I hit the signal switch is a problem that I need help with!!
Would really appreciate any thoughts!!!
Thanks
Nite Hawk

Response From Nite hawk

Howdy!
New developments
Tightened the belt, no more squeals, was headed home, we slowed down and it died...
re-started the first time, got underway, and again slowed down, no signal and and died again, this time it wouldn't re-start, and had to be pushed out of the road.
After while and lots of trying, and after it sat for a while it finally started and we made to the turn at home, again slowed down, this time with a signal and again it died., and no start.
My son was tinkering with the key in the ignition, and noticed that the dash lights wouldn't come on, but after jiggling the key if the dash lights would come on, it would start.
This time it blew a tail light fuse, ( second time after a dying episode this happened)
We were wondering if maybe the there was a problem with the ignition switch that might be killing everything...
Now I don't know if the ignition is somehow connected to the signal and tail lights , and maybe if there is a short in one area it is crashing everything??
I was reading the other day on the internet that the 1980-88 volvo's had bad qualtiy engine wire harnesses, and the web site was recommending to replace the wire harnessing..
Now of course this site sells harnesses, so not sure if this is the truth or not. appreciate your thoughts..
Will check out more about the testers -thanks.

Response From Nite hawk

It is possible its not charging properly, even though the battery is new, and the alternator rebuilt earlier in the year. I question the belt tightness on the alternator, have what seems to be a belt squeal from time to time, and I question the possibility of maybe the negative battery cable might possibly need replaced, but not sure if that has any bearing on the problem or not.. Not knowledgeable on car electrics , that's why I am asking wiser heads than mine what they think.
Thanks for your thoughts.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I didn't go look up layout but check that belt. You should not be able to turn alternator with bare hands by the fins (everything off and cool please) or it's too loose and squealing suggests.


Reason I said cell phone charges meaning nothing as it's power output is .3VOLTS not crap as things go. You said car dies out with just directionals. Just the power a couple light bulbs take to light is probably 500 times the power a cell phone could ever need. That little bit is taking (high bet on this) away enough power that the engine can't run right or at all never mind running more power items like blower motor, headlights, rear window defrosters and the like. Starting the engine takes a ton of power expressed as amps. Think like a water hose you could use a pin hole straw or a garden hose and which would deliver the most for you? Same basics for this much of your troubles.


This isn't rocket science yet with your car. Get a voltmeter ($10US) available if you just look around at larger department stores like Walmart and others.
That and get a "floating battery charger, maintainer" for cheap too - about $20US. Takes a long time perhaps 24 hours to charge but will indicate the battery is fully charged. Voltmeter should read 12.6 or more volts right then and settle to that. Just those two things you can diagnose a lot. Add to that a plain scratch awl type test light, LED ones are now under $10 bucks and you can do quite a bit of basics now.


Check voltage on outside of battery clamps and one posts for any volt difference say with headlights on or something that uses some power. Should be the same.


Belt again. Didn't check if self adjust or not and doesn't matter which way but has to be snug enough. Self tensioned has a limit for belt stretch or plain bad and manually tensioned you do yourself or have done but don't over do it either - know the difference or it's too hard on bearing on belt driven items. If more than one check and or replace/adjust as needed. Find out if unsure in person with a mechanic.


All your issues point to simple inadequate power to run properly and belt(s), battery and that it charges is the key to it all,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

This plain smacks of charging system not up to par or working at all! Belt way too loose, alternator problem, or new or not battery no good. You gotta charge a battery first or should before testing anything. Using your cell phone as an indicator mean absooooolutely nothing!


T

1994 volvo power steering/overheating

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Orchidomegaly on 1994 volvo power steering/overheating

My volvo is sick right now.

It all happened rather suddenly. I noticed the problems right after I started my car after it had been sitting for about 4 days, and i backed up over a pile of snow that scraped along the bottom of my car. I don't know if that caused any of this.

It seems that my power steering suddenly died completely. After driving for 5-6 minutes it gets very hot and the fan stays on after I turn it off. Also many error lights on my dashboard suddenly lite up too. It says the alternator isn't charging the battery, my e-brake is on (it isn't) and a few other abnormal errors that don't seem to be right.

All of those things seem to have started at once. I'm really lost as far as what the cause is, and what the best (cheapest) coarse of action would be. I would appreciate any suggestions!

Response From Jeff Norfolk Top Rated Answer

Sounds like you may have lost the belt. Take a look and see if you are missing any under the hood.