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Best Selling Genuine Renault Alternators

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  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Renault Replacement Alternator Parts

We stock Alternator parts for most Renault models, including Alliance, Encore, Fuego, R18, R18i.

MPA
1986 Renault R18i Alternator 4 Cyl 2.2L MPA - Remanufactured

P311-42664B1    13224  Remanufactured

19134085 , 2104643 , JR775145 , 432789 , 13224 , 334-1092 , 433073 , 432812 , A14N113 , A14N65

Qty:
$9.00 $63.15
  • ALTERNATOR-RMFD STDRD
  • wo/ AC
  • Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amps: 75 Amps
    • Clock: 3:00
    • Fan: External
    • Manufacturer: Paris Phone
    • Pulley: 6 Groove Serpentine
    • Regulator: Internal
    • Rotation: Clockwise
    • Volts: 12 Volts
Brand: MPA
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Renault R18i L 4 Cyl 2.2L 131 2152
Remy
1986 Renault Encore Alternator 4 Cyl 1.4L Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-3008B18    14331  Remanufactured

A13N113 , 516009A , 432785 , 516009 , 8982-755-016 , 516030E , JR775016 , 516009B , 7701-349-416 , 7700-678-878 , 516030 , 7700-764-766 , 7700-702-054 , 9AR5042P , 8982-775-016 , A14N56 , 516030C , 7700-670-878 , A14N51 , 516045

Qty:
$3.00 $66.54
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • with AC; 75 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Fan Type: External
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 6
    • Pulley Belt Type: V-belt
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 73.0
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Renault Encore L 4 Cyl 1.4L 85 1397
Remy
1986 Renault Encore Alternator 4 Cyl 1.7L Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-2195577    14753  Remanufactured

516034 , 432734 , 8982-775-024 , 516049 , 7700-767-101 , A14N89 , 7700-721-616 , 432812 , A14N99 , JR775024

Qty:
$5.00 $79.34
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • with AC; 75 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Fan Type: External
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 3
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 6
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 60.0
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Renault Encore L 4 Cyl 1.7L 105 1721
Remy
1981 Renault R18 Alternator 4 Cyl 1.6L Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-3008B18    14331  Remanufactured

A13N113 , 516009A , 432785 , 516009 , 8982-755-016 , 516030E , JR775016 , 516009B , 7701-349-416 , 7700-678-878 , 516030 , 7700-764-766 , 7700-702-054 , 9AR5042P , 8982-775-016 , A14N56 , 516030C , 7700-670-878 , A14N51 , 516045

Qty:
$3.00 $66.54
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • wo/ Opt Elec Equip; 75 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Fan Type: External
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 6
    • Pulley Belt Type: V-belt
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 73.0
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1981 - Renault R18 L 4 Cyl 1.6L 100 1647

Latest Renault Repair and Alternator Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Alternator problem Renault Panel Van.

Showing 8 out of 8 Posts
Question From BML on Alternator problem Renault Panel Van.

The red light came on in my son's Panel Van and after taking the sump guard of he found that there was a wire loosely held in by what he described as Wax. He cleaned it up and stuffed it back in again and the red light went out. He got to work four miles away and the red light came on again.
I have never come across an alternator with a wire held in by wax so I would welcome some advice because if I buy a used or even new alternator I can only assume that the wire will have to be connected to the alternator by wax?
Many thanks.

Response From Hammer Time

We don't have Renault's here in the US so I couldn't tell you what it is.

Response From BML

With respect. Is this a serious reply?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes from me. Site is mostly N. American. I have no clue what the thing is or for. Not the point though as it seems it need it and wiring to be properly repaired permanently and suggest doing that if you have to take things out of the way to fix the break.


Best I can suggest. If it sets off a warning it must be needed?


Tom

Response From BML

North American, I should have known. I was attached to an American Unit in Korea and they caused me nothing but trouble. The problem is that I'm close to eighty now so when I think about cars they are of the 1960 period and I know that things have changed so much now.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer


North American, I should have known. I was attached to an American Unit in Korea and they caused me nothing but trouble.
So this is really going to be an anti-American issue simply because your car isn't sold here so none of us have any sort of tech data on one? Pretty sad . By the way, this "wax" you talk of is likely epoxy. Many components that do not unplug have their wires attaced inside them and then the cavity is filled with epoxy to prevent moisture from getting in and corroding. The wires leading out eventually go to some sort of connector. By pushing the wire back in it is making some sort of connection for now but will not last. The part the wires are going into may possibly be threaded into a larger part, and just the small piece containing the wires would be all that is needed to make the repair. Some sensors are like that, with a length of wire coming out of them a short way and then having a connector. That is called a "pigtail" here in the US. Look up the part online through parts stores, I would imagine you can find a picture of it. Look on the pic and see if those wires are included. Or swing into the parts store and have them come look at it to find out exactly what part it is.

Response From Hammer Time

This fool is from UK of all places to be throwing stones.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Things were different then too. US and Canada specs are mostly the same. For MANY decades specs have been tough to sell a new car to either country from safety features, crash tolerance, lighting, emissions and more. Many car makers chose not to make the changes and quit selling to N. America but continued elsewhere.


The trouble is the tech info is either very hard to find or costs a lot of money so who would buy it here for another place?


Anyone can search and come upon this site and notice only that we use English only but so do lots of other places so you wouldn't know.


A lot of things are basic designs then the specifics for an exact model of something can be tough for the regulars here, that's all,


Tom

Alternator Belt Clio

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Brian2305 on Alternator Belt Clio

Hi my wife came home engine not charging I found that the alternater belt was off, have got the belt but when I went to fit it found a small pully just below the alternater pully with a long bolt comming from the top. Could anyone please tell me does the belt go over or under this small pully. Car is Renault Clio auto RXE 1999.
Many thanks for any help.
Brian.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

We wouldn't have any info on a non-US car

Renault Clio 2001,1.2 16v dynamique electrical fault?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From hargreaves90 on Renault Clio 2001,1.2 16v dynamique electrical fault?

01 plate
Renault
Clio
1.2 dynamique 16v
65,000 miles

Started the engine and I noticed the light on my clock had dimmed I then went to click the electric windows and the lights dimmed and fully turned my steering wheel to get out of a tight spot and the lights dimmed again,

I took my car to the garage a few weeks later and they checked the battery which was ok and the alternator was fine too, all the earths were fine they said to me but they think its and electrical fault but not sure where?

Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong/how to fix/or advice

Many thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

This vehicle not sold where most regulars are, N. America but doesn't matter much so far. This seems like a shared belt for alternator and power steering is too loose such that when power steering is working hard on the belt and really should have a better grip allows alternator to slip in essence just what battery power is available.

When engine is running the operating voltage is and should be higher than plain battery alone. Say 12.2V becomes probably 13.5 to 14+ a bit volts such that lights would be a bit brighter.

If my theory is correct you would see this on a voltmeter. Can only guess at what is likely but could include other reasons like....

* You are turning way too hard to the end of range of steering and stressing the PS pump so much it could lower engine idle speed. Usually if doing that belt would screech but not always.

* Battery may even dip below reasonable normal voltage. May or may not trigger a warning light or show on a dash gauge.

A couple things to do.....

* Avoid trying to steer more than the end of steering travel if you do that. It's hard on pump, hoses, belt and won't steer more anyway.

* Check that belt is PROPERLY TIGHT. Too tight not good, too loose not good so know it's right.

* Battery load test observing voltage. Rare but some will have enough power to start engine (highest load it has to do) but not adequate otherwise.

** May be all off on my guess. If the lights are as dim when engine off and key on run position it's voltage that isn't staying in range.

It always helps to know all battery connections are good and clean and all grounds (earth wires you say) are good as well.

If alternator and power steering do NOT share the same belt AND engine RPM is staying up enough this would likely be some other gremlin,

T

Renault Megane Classic Immobiliser Problem

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From eurythmic on Renault Megane Classic Immobiliser Problem

My ten year-old car has been working beautifully until Wednesday last week when I tried to leave work and the thing wouldn't start. I rang my breakdown recovery service who diagnosed an immobiliser fault and towed it to my local garage. They have tried ordering a new immobiliser ring but this did not help. Nor did reprogramming both keys. They tell me I am likely to need a new immobiliser. I'm guessing this is going to be expensive! My question is, do I definitely need a new immobiliser or is it possible to disconnect it altogether? (My car is a bit past it and I can't see anyone wanting to hotwire the thing!)

I am limited in my options as the car is at the garage and won't start so I have to get them to fix it, rather than being able to ring around and ask for different opinions/quotes from different places. However, I really don't have any spare money hanging around to fork out for a new immobiliser. If anybody has any alternative suggestions I would love to hear them!

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

I don't see too many Renaults but unfortunately with most factory anti-theft systems there really is no way to bypass the systems for the simple reason if the system could be bypassed they would be pretty much useless.

There are a few GM models here where a resistor can be soldered into a harness to bypass it but other than those few models, the system has to be working the way it came from the factory....

Do ask you tech but I would say the odds are slim........