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We stock Alternator parts for most Peugeot models, including 505, 604.


Remy
1987 Peugeot 505 Alternator 4 Cyl 2.2L Remy - Premium Remanufactured

P311-5C0B391    13059  Remanufactured

A14N88 , 432806 , A14N59 , 570566 , 436320

Qty:
$30.00 74.56
Remy Alternator
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; 80 Amps
  • Premium Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 80
    • Fan Type: External
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 6
    • Pulley Belt Type: V-belt
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 1
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 66.0
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1987 - Peugeot 505 GAS L 4 Cyl 2.2L - 2155
Remy
1991 Peugeot 505 Alternator 4 Cyl 2.2L Remy - Premium Remanufactured

P311-1F8382A    14385  Remanufactured

432829 , 510-148 , 9AR2672P , 9AR2964K , 2940426

Qty:
$20.00 81.97
Remy Alternator
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; with Valeo Alt 70 Amps
  • Premium Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 70
    • Fan Type: External
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 2
    • Pulley Belt Type: V-belt
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 1
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 65.0
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Peugeot 505 Naturally Aspirated L 4 Cyl 2.2L - 2165
Remy
1990 Peugeot 405 Alternator 4 Cyl 1.9L Remy - Premium Remanufactured

P311-29ACD33    13368  Remanufactured

0-120-489-258 , 0-120-489-259

Qty:
$32.00 90.67
Remy Alternator
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; with Bosch Alt 55 Amps
  • Premium Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 55
    • Fan Type: External
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 10
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 4
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 56.0
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Peugeot 405 C L 4 Cyl 1.9L - 1905
BBB Industries
1982 Peugeot 505 Alternator 4 Cyl 2.3L BBB Industries - Premium Remanufactured

P311-0CE42B4    11392  New

Qty:
$70.00 180.15
BBB Industries Alternator
  • ; w/Internal Reg Paris Rhone Unit Opt 75 Amps
  • Premium Remanufactured
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1982 - Peugeot 505 L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2304
BBB Industries
1982 Peugeot 504 Alternator 4 Cyl 2.3L BBB Industries - Premium Remanufactured

P311-2ACD26B    11391  New

Qty:
$60.00 143.05
BBB Industries Alternator
  • ; w/External Reg 70 Amps
  • Premium Remanufactured
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1982 - Peugeot 504 L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2304
BBB Industries
1985 Peugeot 505 Alternator 4 Cyl 2.5L BBB Industries - Premium Remanufactured

P311-0CE42B4    11392  New

Qty:
$70.00 180.15
BBB Industries Alternator
  • ; Paris Rhone Unit Opt 75 Amps
  • Premium Remanufactured
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1985 - Peugeot 505 L 4 Cyl 2.5L - 2498

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2002 Peugeot 307 doesnt start with key

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From ttalondon on 2002 Peugeot 307 doesnt start with key

Please somebody advise on me with this. I have a peugeot 307 2002 model. Last night i left my side lights on about 6-7 hours because i forgot to turn off. However i didnt have problem to start up this morning but halfway on to my work on the road i suddenly turn AC on and stop sigh appeared on dash board with other signs such as airbags but the car still running. Then i parked side of the road and stop the engine. Just smell very mild burning kind on smell but car doesnt start witn key. Not even a sound but other things work on battery works fine lights,wipers sterio etc. now my car only can start with somebody pushing it. Does anyone know where the problem is? Thanks in advance

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

For now I'd test battery after charging with a charger then check car's charging system. Perhaps battery was low enough the alternator worked too hard for it and can harm them.

Once charging system or a weak battery is involved strange things can happen.

It is inconsistent that it started and now doesn't even make a click but would still rule out a weak battery or charging system. Sometimes alternator can fail and still put out some but not enough.

Car not sold to the US where most regulars here are but I'm familiar with the left or right side I'll call parking lights,

T

96 Peugeot 406 1.9 diesel - intermittent starting fault

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Altheya on 96 Peugeot 406 1.9 diesel - intermittent starting fault

hi there,

I have triedto search for some advice on this problem but hard to know what to search for!

My 406 on start up will try to turn over very slowly as if there is no battery power. It will then make a 'ticking' noise when turning the key. It will continue to do this over and over and you get a funny sulphur smell. Then, it will all of a sudden turnover. There doesn't seem to be any logic to what suddenly allows it to start.

I have replaced the battery and had temporary fix on the vaccum hose which had come off.

Other odd things I have noticed are the dash lights on start up and warm up will get brighter and dimmer and the electric windows are tricky to close only moving in short bursts.

The car has a keypad immobiliser, could this be causing a problem?

Any advice is most welcomed, I just don't want to fork out a load of cash if it's not worth it!

Many thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Seems like low amp delivery from battery?? All connections need be known clean and tight enough. I'd check that alternator output is up to par also,

T

Peugeot 505, Battery drains flat fast, after welding exhaust

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From peter4922 on Peugeot 505, Battery drains flat fast, after welding exhaust

Hi,

CAR:
Peugeot 505 GTI
Year: 1984
Engine: 2.1l
Mileage: 110000km.

PROBLEM:
Yesterday I had the exhaust repaired using an arc welder. When I left the garage the car was working fine. The car was parking at home in the garage. About 3 hours later the car would not start and the battery was flat. I recharged the battery for an hour. The car started immediately.

Before the exhaust was welded the car was not used for more than 24 hours but the car started immediately. In the previous week the car stood unused for more than 3 days but started immediately.

All electronics / electrical components seem to be working. Lights, radio, window screen widers, electric windows, fuel pump relay, fuel injection all are working (once the battery is recharged)

QUESTION: Did the arc welder break something on the car ? Any suggestions what can be broken and how to locate the fault ? How do I test the battery (I have a multimeter) ?

Here are other details that might help.

DETAILS: I was watching the welders. I did not see any wires near the place where they welded. The welders did mount a bracket on the exhaust pipe. The bracket is connected to the car body using a metal screw and bolt. Around the screw and bolt is rubber which cushions the exhaust. The bracket is the original part but the screw-bolt-rubber is new.

DETAILS: I suspect that there is a short circuit which over a few hours drains the battery. This is an old car. Many mechanics have fiddled with it. Perhaps, the exhaust pipe is accidently connected to the battery's positive terminal and the cars body is connected to the negative terminal. Perhaps the screw and bolt with the rubber no longer insulates the exhaust from the car's body.

Thanks for any help.

Peter

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I really doubt the welding had anything to do with it unless it burned out the diodes in the alternator and the alternator is drawing on the battery.

There is a procedure for finding a battery draw like that.

You will need a digital ammeter and a jumper wire with clips on the ends to do this.
First rig any door switches so you can have a door open without triggering the interior lights and unplug the hood light. Remove one battery cable and attach the meter in series between the battery cable and battery post. Take the jumper wire and also attach it the same way. Leave the jumper wire on for at least 10 minutes to expire all the automatic timers. Now remove the jumper wire and read the meter. Anything over 50ma is too much draw. The way you locate this is to start removing fuses one at a time until the meter drops to normal level. This will be the circuit with something staying on. Determine what components are part of that circuit and check them individually until the problem is isolated.

Response From peter4922

Thanks for the help. Looks like the central locking is drawing quite a bit of current. Nothing I can do about that.

It also turned out that the battery was broken (one cell was finished). So I replaced the battery. I've left the car standing for a few days. So I'll see if something is still draining the battery unreasonable.

Alternator only starts charging when taken over 3000rpm

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From wildbits on Alternator only starts charging when taken over 3000rpm

Anyone understand alternators and their control systems?

I have a Peugeot 306 LX Auto 1600cc reg 2000 approx 75k miles. It failed while driving at night - all the electrics failed slowly until it wouldn't run. Clearly it wasn't charging and just went until the battery died.

RAC man tested the battery and declared it to be fine (though now flat). He jump started it and then metered the output and it was not charging. Next he put a wire between one terminal of the alternator and... another point, don't know where, could have been the battery? When this extra wire was connected it started charging.

Next he took off the extra wire, turned the engine off, restarted it, REVVED IT TO approx 3000RPM and it started charging AND KEPT CHARGING EVEN WHEN IDLING.

This is how I've been running it for about 4 months. Every time I start the engine I blip the throttle to a good 3000rpm - at this point THE BATTERY WARNING LIGHT COMES ON which now indicates it's charging. It stays charging until the engine is turned off. I've tested this many times with the meter, it works every time, NOT INTERMITTENT, and it's been fine for 4 months. The battery has never been charged other than by the alternator.

So what's the problem? Well I don't want to keep revving it hard from cold, and I don't like driving with a red warning light permanently on. I'd like to fix it rather than just get round it.

My local garage insist that I need a new alternator and/or battery. I don't see this when the battery behaves perfectly and the alternator consistently puts out 14.5v - when it's told to. The bit I need help with is how to instruct the alternator to start charging other than revving the engine.

My impression is that there's a broken connection somewhere between the alternator and the battery warning light - but where?

Thanks for reading this far! Got any ideas?
Cheers
IanB

Response From HT

My best guess is the alternator has a bad diode and probably should be replaced.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

#1, not sure but have witnessed that. Dependably a car (more than one) wouldn't charge until revved up and fine after that for ages. Swapping one out did fix that and I think (just can't be sure) that brushes were sticky somehow and the rev up just made them connect.

Those were easy ones. Long time ago and think a slight whack with something like a plastic hammer could make them snap to working. Most people wouldn't put up with that so I did not just take them apart in attempt to fix them just replace and it was done,

T

Response From Discretesignals

The alternator doesn't appear to be excited which accounts for the engine having to be revved for the alternator to start functioning. Most alternators need external power from the lamp circuit to get the alternator excited, so it can start charging. If there is lamp voltage at the regulator, more than likely the regulator is the problem.

You could remove the alternator and have it bench tested.

Response From wildbits

Ah! Thanks, that's a useful explanation. I'll get the meter out again and see what I can learn.

Response From wildbits Top Rated Answer

Okay, don't know whether to feel embarrassed, vindicated or just happy, but I seem to have fixed it!

I metered it again and it was charging perfectly within range, just not being excited on starting. And so...

even though I was sure I checked all the fuses before, I checked again and found a blown 15A fuse. I replaced this and, sure enough, it's working just fine. Doh!

Not sure exactly what this fuse does as none of the 3 possible versions shown in the manual bear any obvious relation to the one actually in the vehicle. Also the clock and the electric windows are now working, so apparently part of the same circuit. Don't know what caused it to blow in the first place either, as all seems to be well now.

Anyway, thanks all for your input - if nothing else it encouraged me to go and get my hands dirty rather than just believe the guys garage who had a look and told me I definitely needed a new alternator - sounds like that would have been an expensive way not to solve the problem!

I'll keep an eye on it just in case some kind of alternator issue caused the blown fuse in the first place, but I'm seeing 14.5v at fast idle, dropping to about 14.3 with all the lights and A/C on - that's about right isn't it? That's from cold this morning and it's about 12C here.

Cheers
IanB

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Your voltages are now good, consider this solved unless it continues to blow that exact fuse. It's just being a French car to you

Why is it wired that way - who the heck knows? I should consider this problem solved and lock the thread but will wait to see how long this good find lasts,

T

how to repair a panel that will last years?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From bezford on how to repair a panel that will last years?

hi guys,im new to this site and im really searching for an experienced bodywork person to help me out...My Peugeot 206 gti137,2002 model on 73000mls has unmittingly to me on purchase some 18months ago,had a really quite poor repair on the drivers rear quarter and over the past 18mnths the car has gone from really clean all round....to a right rust bucket on the drivers rear quarter.
Now the car has even failed its mot partly because of the drivers sill and the rear quarter are so corroded that they need addressing fast.

My main question here is how to repair the sill/quarter patches in a way that will last for a good number of years to come without the repair failing again like on the poor rushed job its already had?

I guess the real trick for me,having had some experience with body repair,is how to fill a car with filler aka bodge and prep it for paint then paint in its stages but do all this in a way that will eliminate the map like contour marks that appear on these panels after some time?????ruining the entire job and wasting a lot of cash things being as costly as they are.......

If anyone has any good advice with the map contours and how to do a quality job that will last then please help me out as im needing the car for mot pass but i want it to be done right...
OH!!!please bare in mind the entire job will be done outside in the sun or not...
Thanks folks..

Response From MarineGrunt Top Rated Answer

Have you considered finding a rear quarter at the salvage yard? If it's as bad as you suggest that is one alternative.

I'm no pro but I do know that with body filler you can only use it up to a certain thickness. So, you may have to get some sheet metal and patch it in.

I've welded a few holes in some vehicles of our. I used a tig setup since I don't have a mig but have heard mig is the preferred method. There are some out there who would rather use tig though. The good thing about mig is that it will transfer less heat. Less heat means less warping of the parent material. Personally I'd rather use tig just because I enjoy tig welding more. It's pretty easy to build up panels so you don't even have to use any filler at all. I'm actually in the process of repairing the rocker panels and cab corners in my GMC Sierra right now.

As for the paint there's no huge secret to it. Painting is kind of like welding. The better you prep the surface the better it is going to turn out. If you want it to last you have to get all of the rust out. If you leave any rust that old stuff will continue eating away into good metal. It doesn't take long either.The paint job is only as good as the paint so you aren't going to want to use some $7 rattle can crap you bought from the local parts store. Even if you go to a paint store they are going to have different grades of paint. The last time I bought some auto paint a quart of paint ranged from $45 to like $150 because of the quality of the paint. Same goes for the clear coat.

Once you get the surface patched and prepped wipe it down with solvent and then shoot it with a good primer. Sand, wipe down with solvent, and shoot it with a few coats of base. You then shoot it with the clear coat. The now have basecoat and clear coat as one. It's a little more pricey though.

Like I have already mentioned, I'm no pro but this is pretty much what has always been recommended to me. I don't think we have any bodywork pros here but a few do have some knowledge in bodywork. I'm sure they'll chime in too.