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BBB Industries
2010 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-2CE1C87    11240  New

Qty:
$70.00 $127.71
BBB Industries Alternator
  • 160 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
BBB Industries
2007 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-2CE1C87    11240  New

Qty:
$70.00 $127.71
BBB Industries Alternator
  • Opt 160 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
BBB Industries
2010 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-029CA58    11504  New

Qty:
$60.00 $166.54
BBB Industries Alternator
  • 140 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
BBB Industries
2007 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-25DB7B5    11242  New

Qty:
$60.00 $125.03
BBB Industries Alternator
  • Std 136 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
BBB Industries
2003 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-4F8531C    13873CP  New

Qty:
$60.00 $143.32
BBB Industries Alternator
  • Std w/Clutch Pulley 136 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Bosch
2009 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-050CB28    AL6496X  Remanufactured

5149275AA

Qty:
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • 160 A
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 160
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Nd
    • Plug Type: 378
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 57
    • Pulley Type: 6s
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): 6s
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Bosch
2010 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-050CB28    AL6496X  Remanufactured

5149275AA

Qty:
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 160
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Nd
    • Plug Type: 378
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 57
    • Pulley Type: 6s
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): 6s
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Bosch
2012 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-050CB28    AL6496X  Remanufactured

5149275AA

Qty:
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • 140 A
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 160
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Nd
    • Plug Type: 378
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 57
    • Pulley Type: 6s
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): 6s
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
MPA
2006 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L MPA - New

P311-1D17E41    13913N  Remanufactured

421000-0040 , 4801252AA , 19134437 , 13913

Qty:
$223.46
MPA Alternator
  • ALTERNATOR-RMFD STDRD
  • with 160 amp alt.
  • New
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amps: 160 Amps
    • Clock: 2:00
    • Fan: Internal
    • Manufacturer: Nippondenso
    • Pulley: 6 Groove Serpentine
    • Regulator: External
    • Rotation: Clockwise
    • Volts: 12 Volts
Brand: MPA
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
MPA
2006 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L MPA - Remanufactured

P311-2F21DBC    15014  Remanufactured

13873CP , 121000-4540

Qty:
$60.00 $120.35
MPA Alternator
  • ALTERNATOR-RMFD STDRD
  • with 136 amp alt., 6S clutch pulley
  • Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amps: 136 Amps
    • Clock: 2:00
    • Fan: Internal
    • Manufacturer: Nippondenso
    • Pulley: 6 Groove Serpentine Clutch Pulley
    • Regulator: External
    • Rotation: Clockwise
    • Volts: 12 Volts
Brand: MPA
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
MPA
2009 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L MPA - Remanufactured

P311-24B5EB3    11242  Remanufactured

334-2753 , 56041693AE , 121000-4630 , 11242

Qty:
$60.00 $97.36
MPA Alternator
  • ALTERNATOR-RMFD STDRD
  • with 136 amp alt.
  • Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amps: 136 Amps
    • Clock: 2:00
    • Fan: External
    • Manufacturer: Nippondenso
    • Pulley: 6 Groove Serpentine
    • Regulator: External
    • Rotation: Clockwise
    • Volts: 12 Volts
Brand: MPA
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
MPA
2010 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L MPA - Remanufactured

P311-444B51E    11504  Remanufactured

05149275AA , 5149275AA , 421000-0780 , 11504

Qty:
$60.00 $146.56
MPA Alternator
  • ALTERNATOR-RMFD STDRD
  • with 140 amp alt.
  • Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amps: 140 Amps
    • Clock: 2:00
    • Fan: Internal
    • Manufacturer: Nippondenso
    • Pulley: 6 Groove Serpentine
    • Regulator: External
    • Rotation: Clockwise
    • Volts: 12 Volts
Brand: MPA
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
MPA
2012 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L MPA - Remanufactured

P311-444B51E    11504  Remanufactured

05149275AA , 5149275AA , 421000-0780 , 11504

Qty:
$60.00 $146.56
MPA Alternator
  • ALTERNATOR-RMFD STDRD
  • Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amps: 140 Amps
    • Clock: 2:00
    • Fan: Internal
    • Manufacturer: Nippondenso
    • Pulley: 6 Groove Serpentine
    • Regulator: External
    • Rotation: Clockwise
    • Volts: 12 Volts
Brand: MPA
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Remy
2009 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-29F3DBB    12836  Remanufactured

56029914AD , 56029914AF , 421000-0470

Qty:
$70.00 $148.75
Remy Alternator
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • 160 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 160
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 56.6
    • Regulator Type: External
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Remy
2007 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-27D503B    12328  Remanufactured

5170748AA , 421000-0040 , 56029914AA

Qty:
$70.00 $114.93
Remy Alternator
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • with OEM# 5170748AA; 160 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 160
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 56.6
    • Regulator Type: External
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Remy
2010 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-29F3DBB    12836  Remanufactured

56029914AD , 56029914AF , 421000-0470

Qty:
$70.00 $148.75
Remy Alternator
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • with OEM# 56029914AD, F; 160 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 160
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 56.6
    • Regulator Type: External
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Remy
2006 Jeep Liberty Alternator 4 Cyl 2.8L Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-3BCFB82    12668  Remanufactured

56044672AB , 104210-4241 , 56044672AA , 104210-4240

Qty:
$70.00 $118.32
Remy Alternator
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • 150 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 150
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 56.8
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Jeep Liberty DIESEL L 4 Cyl 2.8L 171 2768
Remy
2007 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-29F3DBB    12836  Remanufactured

56029914AD , 56029914AF , 421000-0470

Qty:
$70.00 $148.75
Remy Alternator
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • with 128mm (5 1/16") Diameter Alt Case; 160 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 160
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 56.6
    • Regulator Type: External
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Remy
2007 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-1EE0D2A    12883  Remanufactured

56041693AD , 121000-4620

Qty:
$70.00 $118.32
Remy Alternator
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • with 137mm (5 3/8") Diameter Alt Case; 136 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 136
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 56.9
    • Regulator Type: External
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Denso
2002 Jeep Liberty Alternator 6 Cyl 3.7L Denso - 136 Amp

P311-59E55FB    W0133-1843493  New

Qty:
$75.00 $257.06
Denso Alternator
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit - Reman
  • with 136 Amp Alternator
  • 136 Amp
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -

Latest Jeep Liberty Repair and Alternator Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2008 Jeep Liberty weird noise on startup (video)

Showing 3 out of 8 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From dcmartin25 on 2008 Jeep Liberty weird noise on startup (video)

Ok, to start off it's a 2008 Jeep Liberty, 3.7L engine, around 74k miles on it.
I just bought it back in October with around 67-68k miles on it.

Here's as much backstory on how this started as I can figure out

A couple days ago it was ridiculously hot so I started using the AC for the first time since I owned it. It worked just fine for a 30 mile drive to my parents house for the day. On the way home, however, I noticed the AC wouldn't work at all. Yesterday on the way to the store, no AC again, no matter what I tried. Then when I was leaving the store this noise started. It's continued every time I start the car cold and pretty much lasts until I put it in gear and start driving (but even then I can kind of hear it with the windows down and if I'm near something to bounce the sound back). It sounds to me like something going on with a belt but I'm not completely sure. Could it be related to the AC issue??? Rather than even attempt to describe the sound, I just shot a video of it.

I'll try and embed but if that doesn't work, here's the link: ()

Any help would be greatly appreciated. If this is something I can fix myself, even better. I just know i need to address this because I have a 2.5 hour drive to a concert (and 2.5 back!) in Cleveland coming up in less than a month and don't like the idea of my car blowing up on me on the way there. Thanks in advance.

(couldn't get the embed to work, link it is)

Edit: should also note... engine temperature has been running just fine. All fluid levels seemed okay. There have been no warning lights on the instrument cluster.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

That noise seems to be coming from one of the belt driven components. You may have to remove the belt and move the pulleys by hand to feel for one that isn't smooth. It could be the compressor, the water pump, alternator or any of the idler pulleys.

I wouldn't be driving it around like that though.

Response From dcmartin25

Thanks for the tip. Took the belt off and the first pulley I checked seems like the bearings have completely gone out in it. Going to look into replacing that right now. Fortunately, the rest of them seem fine

Response From Hammer Time

Was it just an idler pulley?

Response From dcmartin25

Nope. Sadly it was the a/c compressor pulley. I can honestly live without AC considering a replacement is around $300 but everyone I've checked online around here so far doesn't have the AC bypass pulley available so I may have to man up and replace the whole unit :(

Response From Hammer Time

If all you have is a bad pulley bearing, you are getting away cheap. If that was internal damage, you would be looking at a lot more damage.

Response From dcmartin25

Oh yeah, I was just hoping it would be an idler pulley or even the alternator pulley though. Significantly cheaper but I'll take it over a dead engine any day

Response From Hammer Time

OK, I'm going to close this now as solved. You can get it re-opened if you need to. Just message any Mod.

2004 Jeep Liberty 3.7

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From jromano624 on 2004 Jeep Liberty 3.7

I have a 2004 Jeep Liberty 3.7 with approx 138K miles. The vehicle has a new battery and the alternator was recently checked by my local autoparts store.

The jeep will not start unless it is jumped or you remove the battery cable and reinstall it. Turn the key and no noise, no clicking...nothing. Electrical components come on but does not start. I've checked the battery terminals and termination to the chasis to ensure the ground is tight. My next move is the starter and celenoid. Am I on the right path?

Response From Discretesignals

Did you actually clean the battery terminals with a terminal cleaning tool or wire brush. I've seen terminals that looked good, but where corroded enough to create a large voltage drop. Do you have a volt meter and know how to use it? Does this have an aftermarket alarm system?


Response From jromano624

There was no corrosion on the terminals however, I did remove them, clean them and reinstalled. My next move was to remove the starter and take it to the local autopart store but I could not turn the front drive shaft to remove the bolts. I just cannot afford to take it to a shop and spend hundreds on it. No aftermarket alarm system. Thanks for your reply.

Response From Discretesignals

Before you remove the starter get hold of a volt meter and do some voltage checks first. I've seen starters that get removed from vehicles work when they are tested, but won't work on the vehicle just because they were banged around. Doing some voltage measurements may save you from having to remove the starter or going on a wild goose chase trying to isolate the problem.

Another simple test you can do before breaking out the volt meter is to have someone hold the key in the start position while you tap on the starter motor housing. If the starter operates after you tap on it, starter needs changing. Don't smack it too hard or you can damage the magnets inside. If tapping on the starter doesn't work, do some measurements.

Read this post:
http://autoforums.carjunky.com/...search_engine#178831


edit: one step I didn't add to that was to check for battery voltage on the solenoid terminal where the small wire is connected while having the key in the start position. If there is no power on the small wire at the solenoid terminal with the ignition in the start position, let us know.

Response From jromano624

Great tip about tapping on the starter. When the key is turned and you tap on the starter, it starts. Now that I know it truely is the starter, my next item is to get the front drive shaft to turn. When I attempt to turn it by hand it moves about an eighth of a turn and stops. Any suggestions?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

The front axle doesn't have a central disconnect or locking hubs to disconnect the front CV axles from the wheels. That means the front driveshaft spins while the vehicle is in motion no matter what mode you have the transfer case in. You won't be able to turn the front drive shaft by hand unless you have the front wheels off the ground.

Response From jromano624

Thank you, problem solved!

2004 Jeep Liberty battery not charging properly

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From wonderboy2005 on 2004 Jeep Liberty battery not charging properly

Hi guys, I could use some help. First off, the info about the car:

year: 2004
Make: Jeep
Model: Liberty (Renegade)
Engine: 3.7L V6

So here is the problem. A couple days ago, the vehicle started struggling while turning over. After a couple trips, it made a number of clicking noises prior to starting. Finally, it would only make the clicking noise and wouldn't start. When this happened, I assumed it was a battery issue and had someone jump me. When it was jumped, the vehicle started without issue. I drove it for ~20 miles after this to charge the battery, and for a day or so, it seemed to work fine again. However, today it started making the clicking noise.

I assumed there was something wrong with the battery or the charging system, but I'm not entirely sure what it is yet. To test it, I purchased a digital multimeter. Here is what I've discovered so far:

The battery, while not being charged, is putting out ~12.7 volts. Note that this is only prior to a good start; I haven't been able to test the battery immediately before it has failed to start the car.

The alternator is putting out ~14.4 volts while the car is running.

There is no significant resistance between the positive and negative terminals on the battery. The meter reads .1-.2 ohms when touching the leads on the meter to each other, as well as when I attach them to the battery terminals.

I've been able to get the battery to charge via the alternator by going a decent distance (~20 miles). Because of this, I am fairly sure the alternator is not the problem.

I don't have any electrical additions or anything plugged into the battery of the vehicle that could be draining the battery. I did have a cell phone charger attached to the cigarette lighter, but I removed it as a troubleshooting step after the first incident. The issue came back, so I assume that the cell phone charger is not the culprit.

As an additional note, the issue started happening immediately after I switched jobs. This is significant because my previous job required that I drive ~50 miles a day. I can walk to my new job, and thus only use the vehicle for short trips in town, which likely are not allowing the battery to recharge like my previous daily commute.

My guess at this point is that my battery needs to be replaced. However, I'd like to hit up those more knowledgeable than I to determine if this is the case and to determine if any additional troubleshooting should be done.

That being said, any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

-Scot

Response From Sidom

1st let me start off with saying "good job" on the thorough inspection.

You've used some good methods and sound logic. You've pretty much narrowed it down to a battery problem. The next step would be to load test the battery and that should tell you for sure if it's capable of holding a full charge. If this is the OE battery for the vehicle, then the odds are very high it's bad.....

Normally I would just leave it at that but due to how in depth you went checking this out, I'll just offer a couple of variations you may or may not want to use.

Another way to check for excessive resistance in the circuit would be to do a voltage drop test on the circuit while under load (running or cranking). To test the cables you would probe the batt term with the pos probe and the cable end with the neg probe. while running, anything over .3 v would indicate a resistance problem. Reverse the probes to check the negative side and on the ground side you don't want to see any more than a .2v drop on a loaded circuit... While using an ohm meter will catch a resistance problem, the thing is you aren't testing a loaded circuit and some problems won't show up until the circuit is loaded....

Another test besides loading a battery would be to check the specific gravity with a hydrometer. A fully charged good battery will show an SP of around 1.265. For this test to be accurate the battery needs to be fully slow charged just for the fact the cells can discharge at a different rate & give false reading. On a fully charge battery you don't want to see more than a 50pt variation. If you do a individual cell probe you would be looking for around 2.2 volts per cell and no more of a .5v variation...

State of Charge Specific Gravity Voltage 100% 1.265 75% 1.225 50% 1.190 25% 1.155 Discharged 1.120

You have used some good methods in tracing this down and I just offered a couple of different ways of "getting there". If you have any questions about this, just google "voltage drop testing" or " battery specific gravity"

It looks like the charging system is working by charging at 14.4. You could load the system by turning everything on, especially the heated back glass if it's equipped with it....Fully load the most you would want to see would be a 1 v drop any more would indicate the alt may not be able to keep up with the demand....

As far as a parasitic draw. If you have an amp meter or clamp. Hook it up to one of the batt cables with everything off & you don't want to see any more that .50-.75 Ma draw on the system. A quick check method would be to hook a test light between the neg terminal and cable while it's disconnected and the light should stay out. If it comes on there may be a draw but this method isn't 100%

Good job..... I enjoy reading posts like this

Response From wonderboy2005

Thanks Sidom, I appreciate your help.

The battery does appear to be the original. It is a Daimler-Chrystler branded battery. I can't say for sure, as I have only owned the car for the past 9 months.

I loaded down the alternator by turning on AC, rear defroster, headlights, bottom fog lights, top fog lights, and the radio. The voltage changed from about 14.38 to 14.30. Nothing significant, so I think we've ruled out the alternator.

I hooked up my multimeter in series with the battery and cable to check the parasitic draw. My meter says its drawing ~25 µA without anything on or plugged in. This seems definitely acceptable, maybe even low. I doubt this is my problem either.

I also checked for resistance while running, as you suggested. The measured voltage was ~.3v, so I think we're good on that front too.

I think I'm going to spring for a new battery. Even if its not the issue, It won't hurt to have a new one.

Thanks again for your help.

-Scot

Response From Sidom

No problem..... Glad it was an easy fix.....

Response From wonderboy2005 Top Rated Answer

The battery seems to have been the problem. I had it replaced, and it starts like a champ. I'll keep an eye on it just in case, but I feel pretty confident that its working properly now.

-Scot