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    Remy
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    TYC Products
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Shop for Top Selling Genuine Honda Crv Alternators

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including TYC Products, WAI Global, BBB Industries, Bosch, Denso, MPA, Remy
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Honda Crv Replacement Alternator Parts

We also have Alternator parts for other Honda models, including Accord, CRV, CRX, Civic, Civic del Sol, Element, Fit, HRV, Odyssey, Passport, Pilot, Prelude, Ridgeline.

TYC Products
2012 Honda CR-V Alternator 4 Cyl 2.4L TYC Products

P311-4A03779    2-11604  New

31100-RX0-A01 , 10132 , 11604 , 11112 , 11604N

Qty:
$234.49
  • TYC Alternator
  • ; Fan Position: Internal Power Generation (Amps): 120A Pully Wheel Design: Regular Pully Wheel Grooves: 7 Regulator Position: Internal Rotation Direction: CW
  • Product Attributes:
    • Fan Position: Internal
    • OE Manufacturer: Nd
    • Power Generation (Amps): 120a
    • Pully Wheel Design: Regular
    • Pully Wheel Grooves: 7
    • Regulator Position: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Cw
Brand: TYC Products
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Honda CR-V L 4 Cyl 2.4L 144 2354
WAI Global
2001 Honda CR-V Alternator WAI Global

P311-2568D36    13743N  New

Qty:
$131.27
Brand: WAI Global
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Honda CR-V
WAI Global
2006 Honda CR-V Alternator WAI Global

P311-27F350A    13966N  New

Qty:
$130.48
Brand: WAI Global
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Honda CR-V
WAI Global
1998 Honda CR-V Alternator WAI Global

P311-2568D36    13743N  New

Qty:
$131.27
  • ; w/Square Alt Plug
Brand: WAI Global
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Honda CR-V
BBB Industries
2012 Honda CR-V Alternator 4 Cyl 2.4L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-27BB101    11604  New

Qty:
$60.00 $124.57
BBB Industries Alternator
  • ; 120 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Honda CR-V L 4 Cyl 2.4L 144 2354
BBB Industries
1997 Honda CR-V Alternator 4 Cyl 2.0L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-5B0A0B5    11101  New

Qty:
$50.00 $125.31
BBB Industries Alternator
  • ; w/Oval Alt Plug 90 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Honda CR-V L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1972
BBB Industries
1997 Honda CR-V Alternator 4 Cyl 2.0L BBB Industries - REMAN ALTERNATOR

P311-4D4590B    13743  New

Qty:
$60.00 $108.02
BBB Industries Alternator
  • ; w/Square Alt Plug 90 Amps
  • REMAN ALTERNATOR
Brand: BBB Industries
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Honda CR-V L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1972
Bosch
2006 Honda CR-V Alternator 4 Cyl 2.4L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-195AA0D    AL1290X  Remanufactured

31100PND004 , 31100PNC004

Qty:
$50.00 $158.67
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 90
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • External Fan Included: Yes
    • External Regulator Included: Yes
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • New Or Remanufacured: Remanufactured
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Mi
    • Packaging: Box
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 12
    • Plug Type: 296
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 7
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 60
    • Pulley Type: 7s
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): 7s
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Honda CR-V L 4 Cyl 2.4L 144 2354
Bosch
2011 Honda CR-V Alternator 4 Cyl 2.4L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-3F0783B    AL1298X  Remanufactured

31100RTA033 , 31100RAAA03 , 31100RAAA05

Qty:
$70.00 $118.10
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 105
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • New Or Remanufacured: Remanufactured
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Nd
    • Packaging: Box
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 12
    • Plug Type: 296
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 7
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 60
    • Pulley Type: 7s
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): 7s
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Honda CR-V L 4 Cyl 2.4L 144 2354
Denso
2006 Honda CR-V Alternator 4 Cyl 2.4L Denso - Reman Alternator

P311-0C16B80    210-4168  Remanufactured

13966 , 31100-PND-0041 , 31100-PNC-004 , 90-27-3329 , 31100-PND-004 , A2TB7591 , AHGA55 , A2966 , 12462 , A13966 , SUA109 , DOA120 , 31100-PNC-0040 , 3341781 , 1861066 , 1N-9550 , A2TC0691A , 94122 , 90-27-3315 , 213-9550 , A2TC0691 , AL1290X , AHGA61 , N13966 , HOA119

Qty:
$68.00 $174.77
Denso Alternator
  • Remanufactured DENSO First Time Fit Alternator
  • ; 90 Amp OE Equivalent
  • Reman Alternator
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 90
    • Family: Mitsubishi Oe
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • Plug Type: 296
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
  • DENSO alternators are not only original equipment on many of the world's top production cars; they are a favorite in motorsports as well, where their light weight, high efficiency, and durability under the most demanding conditions make them the natural choice. Remanufactured DENSO alternators go through a grueling process. Stators and rectifiers are tested to 300 volts, while rotors are submitted to 600 volts, all to ensure reliable performance. Rotor slip rings are buffed to an 8 micron surface finish, with runout limited to 20 microns, minimizing brush wear and abrasion. Bearings are validated to OE standards and loaded with premium OE standard lubricants. New or remanufactured, a DENSO alternator is a quality component. Offered in versions from 40 to 160 amperes and beyond for hundreds of specific vehicle applications, all alternators meet DENSO's rigorous First Time Fit standards. Contemporary cars employ dozens of sophisticated electronic systems from bumper to bumper, placing heavy demands on the charging system. The alternator is no place to cut corners. DENSO First Time Fit alternators meet or exceed all manufacturer standards, mount properly with a minimum of installation issues, and provide years of reliable service. Features. Premium cores and precise OE assembly benchmarks; Design to meet the grueling heat and electrical requirements; First Time Fit provides perfect mounting with no belt/pulley alignment issues; Benefits. Service professionals preferred DENSO's alternators for a trouble free solution; OE quality fit, appearance, and durability; Full compatibility with sensitive electronics systems; Compact and lightweight design
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Honda CR-V K24A1 L 4 Cyl 2.4L 144 2354
Denso
2001 Honda CR-V Alternator 4 Cyl 2.0L Denso - Reman Alternator

P311-0CF96B0    210-0437  Remanufactured

1861013 , 31100-P3F-J01RM , 3341387 , 13847 , HOA227 , 31100-P3F-J01 , 90-29-5354 , 13743 , 31100-P3F-J51RM , 12082 , 102211-1260 , A2096 , 213-9138 , HOA226 , 31100-P3F-J51 , CJV26 , 213-9127 , 90-29-5404 , AL1286X , 102211-1270 , 13-9127 , N13743

Qty:
$34.00 $126.65
Denso Alternator
  • Remanufactured DENSO First Time Fit Alternator
  • ; 95 Amp DENSO is the OE
  • Reman Alternator
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 95
    • Family: Denso Oe
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • Plug Type: 296
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Counterclockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
  • DENSO alternators are not only original equipment on many of the world's top production cars; they are a favorite in motorsports as well, where their light weight, high efficiency, and durability under the most demanding conditions make them the natural choice. Remanufactured DENSO alternators go through a grueling process. Stators and rectifiers are tested to 300 volts, while rotors are submitted to 600 volts, all to ensure reliable performance. Rotor slip rings are buffed to an 8 micron surface finish, with runout limited to 20 microns, minimizing brush wear and abrasion. Bearings are validated to OE standards and loaded with premium OE standard lubricants. New or remanufactured, a DENSO alternator is a quality component. Offered in versions from 40 to 160 amperes and beyond for hundreds of specific vehicle applications, all alternators meet DENSO's rigorous First Time Fit standards. Contemporary cars employ dozens of sophisticated electronic systems from bumper to bumper, placing heavy demands on the charging system. The alternator is no place to cut corners. DENSO First Time Fit alternators meet or exceed all manufacturer standards, mount properly with a minimum of installation issues, and provide years of reliable service. Features. Premium cores and precise OE assembly benchmarks; Design to meet the grueling heat and electrical requirements; First Time Fit provides perfect mounting with no belt/pulley alignment issues; Benefits. Service professionals preferred DENSO's alternators for a trouble free solution; OE quality fit, appearance, and durability; Full compatibility with sensitive electronics systems; Compact and lightweight design
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Honda CR-V Automatic B20Z2 L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1972
Denso
2011 Honda CR-V Alternator 4 Cyl 2.4L Denso - Reman Alternator

P311-2AEE2B4    210-0609  Remanufactured

31100-RTA-013 , 1N-9549 , 31100-RTA-023 , AL1298X , 31100-RTA-003 , 104210-4730 , 31100-RTA-033 , 13980 , A2280 , 12504 , 90-29-5542 , 1861080 , 213-9549

Qty:
$79.00 $120.40
Denso Alternator
  • Remanufactured DENSO First Time Fit Alternator
  • ; 105 Amp DENSO is the OE
  • Reman Alternator
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amperage Rating: 105
    • Family: Denso Oe
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • Plug Type: 296
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
  • DENSO alternators are not only original equipment on many of the world's top production cars; they are a favorite in motorsports as well, where their light weight, high efficiency, and durability under the most demanding conditions make them the natural choice. Remanufactured DENSO alternators go through a grueling process. Stators and rectifiers are tested to 300 volts, while rotors are submitted to 600 volts, all to ensure reliable performance. Rotor slip rings are buffed to an 8 micron surface finish, with runout limited to 20 microns, minimizing brush wear and abrasion. Bearings are validated to OE standards and loaded with premium OE standard lubricants. New or remanufactured, a DENSO alternator is a quality component. Offered in versions from 40 to 160 amperes and beyond for hundreds of specific vehicle applications, all alternators meet DENSO's rigorous First Time Fit standards. Contemporary cars employ dozens of sophisticated electronic systems from bumper to bumper, placing heavy demands on the charging system. The alternator is no place to cut corners. DENSO First Time Fit alternators meet or exceed all manufacturer standards, mount properly with a minimum of installation issues, and provide years of reliable service. Features. Premium cores and precise OE assembly benchmarks; Design to meet the grueling heat and electrical requirements; First Time Fit provides perfect mounting with no belt/pulley alignment issues; Benefits. Service professionals preferred DENSO's alternators for a trouble free solution; OE quality fit, appearance, and durability; Full compatibility with sensitive electronics systems; Compact and lightweight design
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Honda CR-V K24Z6 L 4 Cyl 2.4L 144 2354
MPA
2006 Honda CR-V Alternator 4 Cyl 2.4L MPA - New

P311-264584D    13966N  Remanufactured

19134483 , 13966 , 31100-PNC-004 , A2TB7591

Qty:
$267.54
MPA Alternator
  • ALTERNATOR-RMFD STDRD
  • New
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amps: 90 Amps
    • Clock: 6:00
    • Fan: Internal
    • Manufacturer: Mitsubishi
    • Pulley: 7 Groove Serpentine
    • Regulator: Internal
    • Rotation: Clockwise
    • Volts: 12 Volts
Brand: MPA
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Honda CR-V L 4 Cyl 2.4L 144 2354
MPA
2011 Honda CR-V Alternator 4 Cyl 2.4L MPA - New

P311-5086078    13980N  Remanufactured

19134495 , 13980 , 104210-3290 , 31100-RAA-A01

Qty:
$134.43
MPA Alternator
  • ALTERNATOR-RMFD STDRD
  • New
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amps: 110 Amps
    • Clock: 10:30
    • Fan: Internal
    • Manufacturer: Nippondenso
    • Pulley: 7 Groove Serpentine
    • Regulator: Internal
    • Rotation: Clockwise
    • Volts: 12 Volts
Brand: MPA
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Honda CR-V L 4 Cyl 2.4L 144 2354
MPA
2001 Honda CR-V Alternator 4 Cyl 2.0L MPA - New

P311-3B415A5    13847N  Remanufactured

31100-P75-A01 , 19134255 , 9761219-931 , 13677

Qty:
$141.86
MPA Alternator
  • ALTERNATOR-RMFD STDRD
  • ; with Square Reg. Plug
  • New
  • Product Attributes:
    • Amps: 110 Amps
    • Clock: 12:00
    • Fan: Internal
    • Manufacturer: Nippondenso
    • Pulley: 5 Groove Serpentine
    • Regulator: Internal
    • Rotation: Clockwise
    • Volts: 12 Volts
Brand: MPA
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Honda CR-V United States L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1972
Remy
2011 Honda CR-V Alternator Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-2907759    11019  Remanufactured

104210-4732 , 104210-4730 , 31100-RTA-013 , 31100-RTA-033 , 104210-4731 , 31100-RTA-003 , 31100-RTA-023

Qty:
$25.00 $102.43
Remy Alternator
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; 105 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 105
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 10
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 7
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 59.4
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Honda CR-V
Remy
2014 Honda CR-V Alternator Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-3E3F583    11112  Remanufactured

31100-RX0-A01 , 104210-1530

Qty:
$50.00 $136.57
Remy Alternator
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; 120 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 120
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 10
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 7
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 59.7
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Honda CR-V
Remy
2018 Honda CR-V Alternator Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-3A29838    11227  Remanufactured

CSP47 , 104211-3470 , 31100-5X6-J01

Qty:
$50.00 $405.70
Remy Alternator
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; 135 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 135
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 10
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 7
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 57.0
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2018 - Honda CR-V Naturally Aspirated
Remy
2001 Honda CR-V Alternator 4 Cyl 2.0L Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-2B6DC4A    12560  Remanufactured

102211-1850 , CJV85 , 31100-P3F-E51

Qty:
$70.00 $108.18
Remy Alternator
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; 90 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 90
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 12
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 4
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 65.0
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Counterclockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Region Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Honda CR-V Automatic Canada L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1972
Remy
2014 Honda CR-V Alternator 4 Cyl 2.4L Remy - Premium Remanufactured

P311-3E3F583    11112  Remanufactured

31100-RX0-A01 , 104210-1530

Qty:
$50.00 $136.57
Remy Alternator
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • ; 120 Amps
  • Premium Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Amperage Rating: 120
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 10
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 7
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 59.7
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Honda CR-V L 4 Cyl 2.4L 144 2354

Latest Honda Crv Repair and Alternator Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1999 Honda CRV -air condition surges

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From young0ad on 1999 Honda CRV -air condition surges

1999 Honda CRV 4 cyc 121K miles - When the engine is running and I am idling at a light, the engine idle surges, recedes, surges, recedes at about the same regular pace as a heartbeat. It ONLY does this when the A/C is on. As soon as the A/C is turned off, the car idles normally. It doesn't matter whether the car is in drive or in park-same problem. Thanks for any help!




Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Has anyone touched the charge of refrigerant on this? Too much and it wouldn't take much with a low capacity system to overwork compressor and engine is fumbling to find a correct idle to compensate the load which would vary up to near stalling an engine or screech a belt.

Could be a sign of compressor just plain working to hard and on its way out too. Guesses as it could also be unrelated and the request for A/C is possibly sending wrong info for normal expected load and turn on fan(s) which is also a load on alternator,

T

Replaced Alternator now Air Won't work

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From meg91jan on Replaced Alternator now Air Won't work

I had my alternator and belt replaced yesterday after the battery light went out on my 2002 Honda CRV. (139K) Sears used a reconditioned alternator and a new belt.

It took them longer then they thought as it was "really complicated to get at". They said they had to take alot of things apart to get at the alternator.

Now my air conditioner only blows warm air. could this be related to the repair I just had done?

Response From Hammer Time

It certainly could if it blew cold when you went in. They may have left something unplugged or blew a fuse, assuming they didn't release the refrigerant to remove a line that was in the way.

Response From dmac0923 Top Rated Answer

like HT said, i betcha some novice kid at sears opened up an a/c line releasing all the refrigerant.

crv door locks

Showing 2 out of 21 Posts | Show 19 Hidden Posts
Question From kensoncustom on crv door locks

i have a2003 honda crv 2.4 .the switch on drivers door will lock all doors,but wont unlock .i have replaced the switch

Response From Discretesignals

Do the doors unlock from the other door lock switches?

Response From kensoncustom

as far as i know i only have 1 switch

Response From Discretesignals

Should be a door lock switch on the passenger door.

Does your key fob lock and unlock the doors?

Response From kensoncustom

no switch on passenger door,key fob does work all doors.thanks for your help

Response From Hammer Time

How do you get out from the passenger seat if the door is locked?

Response From kensoncustom

pull lock with your fingers,you know like we in the old days before power locks

Response From Hammer Time

Strange...... The wiring diagram shows a door lock switch on the passenger side.

Response From kensoncustom

ok i probed pigtail on switch black to bl/w locks doors black to gr/w nothing.
think maby i should pull pass door panel look for pigtail?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Remember you back probe with power to test light to check for ground. The actuator motors alternate between one being powered while the other wire gets power for one way and reverses it for the other way in general.

Probably already said that sometimes wires that bend thru the door jam with the most frequently used door (driver's usually) can fray to little current or break entirely unseen in a rubber cover. I do know locks take more effort to unlock (usually) than lock. Still this should be inconsistent if the key fob works?

T

Response From kensoncustom

still want to see for myself why i dont have a switch on pass side door
will also check door to body connector,but key fob works?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Can't answer that as there might have been an option package you don't have. Some - actually more all the time don't give you a key cylinder for passenger's side which to me stinks as sometimes here a car can be iced solid on one side and you don't have the other to use a plain key to get in if needed to warm the whole thing up to clear it off!

Cheap buzzards. What they do to save a buck,

T

Response From kensoncustom

havent fixed doors yet,not top priority

Response From kensoncustom

no door lock switch on pass side, will probe pigtails the diagram will be very helpfull
thank you

Response From Discretesignals

If you notice on the diagram you can ground the circuits at the door lock switch connector that comes from the MCU to send a request to unlock or lock the doors. If you have a good ground at the switch connector and grounding either circuit causes the locks to actuate, more than likely you have a switch fault.

Response From kensoncustom

who is this zibiga dude

Response From Hammer Time

who is this zibiga dude

Just a spammer that has been removed

Response From kensoncustom

sorry i havent got back with you,but my wife still dosnt understand i cant check it out if you are driving it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

LMAO - sounds like my own family! Diagnose and fix it while they drive. Ever try to do a water pump with the engine running?

While here - see if a relay by the diagram Hammer posted shows the path and sometimes they don't let full power thru something and not enough for unlock but will lock? If key fob works it probably isn't that but spent hours on one (whole other vehicle) that was intermittent and took months to figure out as every time I touched it everything would just start working which messed up any diagnosis

Hard to fix what ain't broke in front of you,

T

Response From kensoncustom

wemill have a chance to check tomarow she is driving my truck f---- gota
fix this problem

Response From Discretesignals

Well, if the key fob can unlock and lock the doors that means the actuators and MCU (mutiplex control unit aka body control module) are functioning. The door lock switch doesn't actually go directly to the actuator. The switch is used to complete a circuit that sends a request to the MCU to lock and unlock the doors.

Your either going to need to get hold of a high end scan tool that can access the MCU to watch the door lock switch commands or your going to have to see if the switch is grounding the appropriate circuit when it is in the lock or unlock position with a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter). Your going to need a wiring schematic of the door lock system and a DVOM.

I don't understand why yours doesn't have a passenger door lock switch, because it is shown in the wiring diagram and location photos in the service information.

Car Battery Problems

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Crue2001 on Car Battery Problems

We are in Delaware & have been dealing with blizzards (2) this past week. My vehicle has been used slightly during the past week, but mostly we've been snowed in & stranded.

That said, I tried to finally get out yesterday and my battery was completely dead...not even a click when I tried to start it. My husband got it started this morning after some effort with a jump start, but it is again not starting this afternoon. I am not excited about driving anywhere until I'm sure it's going to hold a charge and I'll be able to get back home w/out having to jump start it again.

My vehicle is a 2007 Honda CR-V LX, 50K miles, original battery. I've never had any issues with the battery until now. Is it possible it just got so cold that it froze up? Should I consider buying a new battery at this point? If not, what's the best method for getting it charged and getting it to hold a charge?

Any help is much appreciated!

Response From ghenry

If your battery has a weak cell in it, the cold temperatures will cause it to lose charge, thereby draining the entire battery. If one cell is bad, the whole battery is dead. Get a new battery and you should be fine.

Response From Crue2001

Thank you all for your kind and helpful posts. We went ahead and just bought a new battery yesterday. I tote the kids around a lot alone and don't want to chance it not holding a charge & being stuck somewhere.

Response From Double J

My suggestion would be to replace the battery with a new one.
You can take the battery out and take it to Autozone or another parts store/or repair facility and have it charged and then tested to see if it holds a charge.
A dead battery can take up to 8 hours to fully charge when charged at the proper rate.
But if its the original and it failed,i would strongly urge you to replace it with a new one and then have the charging system tested for proper operation and have the system tested to make sure there are no excessive current draws on the battery when the vehicle is shut off.
Autozone can/will test the charging system for free as well as the battery but they lack the capabilities to check for any draws.
Thats my opinion....

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Agree with Double J. Snow (we would know - trust me) isn't a factor in whether car starts or not but any extreme weather will bring out weak links. A model year of car could have a battery made the year before depending on build date and any crap from a 3 or more year old battery is reason enough for me to toss it for new. They can take out more expensive items and stress out an alternator - some of which are both expensive and difficult to replace,

T

I would deeply appreciate your advice, Should I sell or repair my 1999 Honda CRV?

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Question From Bootsaa on I would deeply appreciate your advice, Should I sell or repair my 1999 Honda CRV?

Dear Forum Members, This is my first time ever posting in a car forum and I respectfully apologize if I posted in the wrong area. I was not sure where to ask this question. I am feeling very anxious and am sincerely desperate for your advice. I want to make the best decision and I don't know what to do as I have no expertise in the area. I want to thank you in advance for reading this and I value each persons wisdom, time, efforts and opinion. Background:I am a single female, never married, no children in my later 40's. I have worked at a Community College in Southern CA for 13 years and am passionate about helping youth complete their education. Here is my situation. I have a 1999 Honda CRV, 2.0L 4 Cyn, 191,000 miles. It has performed wonderfully, but it is showing its age. I replaced the timing belt about 10,000 miles ago and replaced most of the hoses. I have replaced a water pump and radiator. Recently I replaced front the tie rods and joints. I just found out I need to replace the 02 sensor. The starter grinds occasionally. I think the front power window motor is going out, it seems like the when the engine is going uphill the transmission RPM's rev up and don't shift into a lower gear as quickly as normal. This worries me. It seems like my whole car is getting ready to go bit by bit. Here is why I am so worried. My 81 Mother has Dementia. I moved her into a mobile home with me to take car of her. My wheels are also her transportation! I have about 20,000 of credit card debit (Stupid I know) I obtained this because I put things on the credit card to help Mom with the move and make the mobile home better to live in (should not have done this). I also have about 27,000 of college debt. My credit is not great. I lost the threads when my Mom was diagnosed. Here is my question: I am afraid that I will go under financially if I buy a new car. Although I can do it, I don't know if it is smart financially. I am VERY afraid to take on more debt. I spend about $75 to$100 a month renting cars to see my 3 young nephews who live 2 hours away. I have worked hard to save about $1,000 for repairs. It is stressful driving around the car as I feel like it is going to give out.(Am I unduly nervous?) I am horrified at how much used cars cost with high miles. I cannot buy one from a private seller as I have to have a loan from a car dealer due to fair credit. Should I buy a new car because by the time I keep fixing my car the money spent will "even" out? The new cars tend to not be much more than used at this time. I keep my cars for years and drive them in the ground. I have always had a Honda. Although it does not sound like it (I am just worried) if you think it is smarter, I would prefer to keep the Honda until I pay off the majority of my debt, but I just don't know if that is being stupid (Penny wise and pound foolish) Every time my car makes a new odd noise, I wonder if I am being dumb and my car is going to stop on a scary road? Driving such an old car does stress me out. It is also such a huge hassle to rent a car on weekends. My mechanic said to not drive my car the two hours to my brothers house (not reliable enough...okay around town) Additionally Enterprise Rental Car only runs the $9.99 a day on weekends during the fall and spring. In Summer they will jack up the rates. Am I going to pour money into my car and end up with an expensive 14 year old vehicle and still no new car? Or am I going to get ahead financially sticking with my Honda? If you all think it will be a smarter move to keep fixing my car and get out of debt sooner, I will do that. I want to do the smart thing. As you can tell I am very conflicted! I am blessed with a very honest, wonderful mechanic. He is not the cheapest, but he deserves every cent. He is in 50''s and runs a small one man shop. HELP!! THANK YOU AGAIN IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR ADVICE. With sincere appreciation, Anne

Response From nickwarner

I'm glad you have found a good mechanic, I also would wonder why he thinks you shouldn't drive it out of town. The O2 sensor and window issue aren't major things, and would go out on any used vehicle. The grind in the starter could indicate a bit of flexplate ring gear damage, which would require pulling the trans to replace. You'd want to get it diagnosed. Is this mechanic a transmission specialist? Not all are, as its a lot of expensive tools and most shops farm out that type of thing. You may want a trans shop to do a diagnostic on that issue for you. You don't have to do the repairs, just pay for the diagnostic to see where you are at.

With the load of debt you have already at $47,000 which is all gaining interest every day, and sub-prime credit, every lender that would deal with you on a car would hit you hard with the interest. You live in a trailer, not a regular house so its not a valuable property to secure a lower rate with like a home equity credit line would be. Say you went and got a new Honda for $30,000 or so. By the time you throw in taxes, plates, fees, full-coverage insurance etc. you're rolling out of the door closer to $35,000 making your total interest-accruing debt to $87,000. Throw in a rather modest income that isn't likely to get much in the way of a raise and you'll be barely treading water paying just the interest. On top of the interest you lose to the bank for the car payment, it is a payment that takes away money that could try to pay off the credit cards and student loans, which allows them to accrue even higher amounts of interest. See what I mean? By the time you're done paying the thing off and can try to pay more on your other debts, its off warranty and into its parts-consuming period so you'll be back into the same boat once again.

A 99 isn't that old. My 95 Suburban still runs like a champ on the original engine with 270,000 on it. I paid cash for it 4 years ago and have no plans to buy anything new anytime soon.

If you get a different used car, you might be buying someone else's headache and it will still need work either immediately or shortly after purchase.

You need to get the full picture of the repairs this needs to be safe and reliable, as well as any noticed items that may not need attention now but will in the somewhat near future. Base your decision off of that. I know you don't have rust issues since you're in Cali, but the rest of the vehicle should get a good lookover to decide if it is worth fixing.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Anne: Can appreciate the strain. We are not here for personal advice but finances do come into play with cars all the time. Consider transportation as very high on the priority list if you must (not public transportation for example) an alternative we need vehicles.

Non automotive and off base on my part is to get your financial situation in order. Know that most new car and many used car (some good stuff) will finance anyone but you lose that car fast for lack of payments! Then you have nothing - right?

Can you afford and you listed out some items that may cost some more bucks those repairs to make this dependable. The grinding starter might get pricey, not just the starter possible but the gear on trans requires removing trans to fix if that's it.

What specifically was the reason your mechanic said this car is unfit for more than around town driving? Easy on the run on writing as that's hard to follow for me anyway but the starter would be my concern out of all you wrote.

So far taking in your situation I'd fix it. The $$ spent on renting cars could go towards repairs on what you have. Any vehicle can throw surprise expenses up to catastrophic expense exceeding any possible reason to fix vs bail out.

The good used car market is expensive right now and think it will continue. New is easier but at the risk of losing more as said and the car with any vehicle.

It's non automotive but you need to get out of credit card debt. You should see on those bills you are paying up front interest if not paid off making anything that much more costly.

Cut out all non mandatory expenses - silly things like buying coffee at a place rather than make your own at home, cable TV -- just some examples folks don't realise add up fast. That advice you didn't ask for but I see what people do out there. You'll be of no help to your Mother if you don't fix your own situation.

Again and so far I say fix the car. Keep up with ordinary maintenance. Drive as gently as possible anyway.

Old sayings - "A penny saved is a penny earned" and just think about just one thing I'll say. You (meaning people) don't always realise that making or saving even $20 bucks a week is ~ $1,000 per year!

See what other say or saw in your post that I may have missed. Good luck,

Tom