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Bosch
1997 Ford Aspire Alternator 4 Cyl 1.3L Bosch - Alternator (Remanufactured)

P311-162EB72    AL7533X  Remanufactured

F4BZ10346A

Qty:
Bosch Alternator
  • Bosch Premium 100% Remanufactured Alternator
  • 50 A
  • Alternator (Remanufactured)
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Case Color: Aluminum
    • Case Material: Aluminum
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • Original Equipment Manufacturer Names: Mn
    • Packaging: Box
    • Plug Type: 300
    • Pulley Type: 4s
    • Pulley Type / Belt Type (Alternator): 4s
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
  • Bosch Premium Alternators are designed, built and tested to provide the ultimate in performance and reliability
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Ford Aspire L 4 Cyl 1.3L - 1295
Remy
1997 Ford Aspire Alternator 4 Cyl 1.3L Remy - Premium; Remanufactured

P311-354DC7B    14363  Remanufactured

B3C7-18-300 , F4BZ-10346-A , B3C7-18-300B , AB160044

Qty:
$60.00 $67.60
  • Premium Remanufactured Alternator
  • 60 Amps
  • Premium; Remanufactured
  • Product Attributes:
    • : Remanufactured
    • Fan Type: Internal
    • One Wire Capable: No
    • Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock: 2
    • Pulley Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 4
    • Pulley Included: Yes
    • Pulley Outside Diameter: 55.0
    • Regulator Type: Internal
    • Rotation Direction: Clockwise
    • Voltage: 12.0
Brand: Remy
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Ford Aspire H L 4 Cyl 1.3L - 1295

Latest Ford Aspire Repair and Alternator Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1995 Ford Aspire

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From fedup on 1995 Ford Aspire

I purchased this Ford Aspire used from 'some guy'. He claimed he fixed the radiator but there is a crack in the radiator, right next to the opening where you pour the coolant. Having never bought a used car before, I didn't think to check and see if he really fixed the radiator, which he apparently didn't.

The car overheats after about 3-4 miles. There is a knocking noise when trying to accelerate. When I first start the car, it shuts off, check engine light, fluid lights come on. I have to start it 2 or 3 times, pushing the accelerator gently before I can get it to drive. Can a sealant like JB Weld hold a crack in the radiator and for how long? I just put duct tape on it. Will that get me to a repair shop?

What could be the knocking noise I hear?

Please help! I am sooo frustrated!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's iffy with the JB weld type product to seal a leak that must hold pressure. I'm sure this tank is plastic and not much is very dependable except replacing it. Problem is worse than that! If you've driven it hot to the point of knocking it's probably done that several times already so the radiator may be just the beginning of the troubles,

T

Response From fedup Top Rated Answer

A friend's husband looked at my car this weekend and found that the spark plug wires were not attached. Why Precision Tune didn't notice that I don't know! My friend told me to just keep putting water in the radiator and check the oil daily b/c there are oil leaks. As he was working on the car, one of the fans began to work but the other is still broken. He suggests it may be a fuse. With the spark plug wires attached and me putting water in every morning has helped a lot and it's driving right now but I am still not real comfortable driving it b/c I fear it could overheat or worse at anytime, or that I'm doing more harm by driving it.

Still, it stalls, it has a hard time starting up (I have to try 3-4 times) and if I'm driving under 25 mph, or idling at a stop light, it will just cut off. It won't shift into another gear when going up a steep hill. My main concern is the shutting off...I'm afraid someone will ram into me at a stop light. Any idea of what that could be? It only happens when I'm going under 25mph. When I'm above 35 she drives fine. I had the battery and the alternator checked and they are both fine. Any advice?

Thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

There are a lot of things going on here. 1. Is this leak at the radiator or the recovery tank? Tank would be an easy and cheaper fix and they can work with silicone adhesive/sealant from the outside if it is not a pressurized part of the cooling system.

The problems with stalling and how it behaves in general need to be addressed by going thru all the tune-up type items, checking for wiring problems, vacuum leaks etc. a real check out and get a code read as it might tell of what might be wrong but I don't expect this to be a one part fix.

You said this was your first used car. There are lots of good used cars out there, it's just tough to know at first without a lot checking them out or paying the higher price of the glitter lots that just don't sell problem cars and they can be the bargain in the long run.

How far do you want to go with this car money wise?

T

Response From fedup

There is a crack in the actual (plastic) radiator, not the tank, right next to the opening where you put the fluid.

I'll get a tune up done and hope that helps.

I paid $700 for the car and knew I would have to put another $2-300, maybe $400 into it. I just need it to last me through February. Is it worth putting in a new radiator or would patching it with the Bars Leak work for 6 months? Is it worth putting in a new distributor if that's really what I need to do? I'm willing to do both the radiator and the distributor as long as I can feel comfortable knowing that I won't need a transmission in the next few months.

I'll write back after the tune up with any codes to get your thoughts on the next step. I will have the transmission checked this weekend as well.

Thanks. You guys are great!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not to scare you but expecting $200-$400 to fix up a car is unrealistic. This car should be better than average for costs. An example of nasty is just replacing the plastic headlight lenses on a certain model of Volvo can be $700 or more!

You radiator may not cost too much but might be a bear to install. I don't know that car specifically. It's sad but costs for repairs can quickly be more than the car's book value. Sometimes you get lucky and simple things are causing a big problem,

T