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Bosch
2003 BMW Z4 Alternator Bosch

P311-4A80802    W0133-1665700  New

Qty:
$75.00 $336.45
Bosch Alternator
  • Remanufactured
  • 120 Amp - Remanufactured
Brand: Bosch
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Vehicle
2003 - BMW Z4
Valeo
1997 BMW Z3 Alternator 6 Cyl 2.8L Valeo

P311-5C9EDE5    W0133-1835177  New

Qty:
$919.53
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • 120 Amp - Valeo : Before selling this alternator, please verify the OE part number off the unit. If it reads: 0 123 515 023 - the AL 0733x is correct. However, should the number read: 0 123 515 022 see AL0738x which is 140 Amp.
  • 120 Amp
Brand: Valeo
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1997 - BMW Z3 L 2793 -
Valeo
1999 BMW Z3 Alternator 6 Cyl 2.5L Valeo

P311-5C9EDE5    W0133-1835177  New

Qty:
$919.53
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • 120 Amp : Originally Equipped with Valeo
  • 120 Amp
Brand: Valeo
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1999 - BMW Z3 L 2494 152
Bosch
2003 BMW Z4 Alternator Bosch

P311-4A80802    W0133-1665700  New

Qty:
$75.00 $331.31
  • Remanufactured
  • 120 Amp - Remanufactured
  • 120 Amp
Brand: Bosch
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - BMW Z4
Valeo
2006 BMW 325i Alternator Valeo

P311-4010F4C    W0133-1779482  New

Qty:
$733.40
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • (1) 12 31 0 392 568 Screw Set required for installation : 185 Amp
Brand: Valeo
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - BMW 325i
Valeo
2004 BMW 545i Alternator Valeo

P311-42E7772    W0133-1664505  New

Qty:
$656.55
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • 180 Amp - Remanufactured
Brand: Valeo
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - BMW 545i
Valeo
2005 BMW X5 Alternator 8 Cyl 4.4L Valeo

P311-2799358    W0133-1771037  New

Qty:
$726.59
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • 170 Amp
Brand: Valeo
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2005 - BMW X5 V 4398 -
Valeo
2006 BMW 550i Alternator Valeo

P311-0E2BDF5    W0133-1779772  New

Qty:
$692.79
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • 180 Amp
Brand: Valeo
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - BMW 550i
Valeo
2008 BMW X5 Alternator 6 Cyl 3.0L Valeo

P311-3D39D42    W0133-1791528  New

Qty:
$1,267.64
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • with Adaptive Drive (S2VAA) : 220 Amp : Must also replace set of aluminum screws
  • Must also replace set of aluminum screws 12 31 0 392 568
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Valeo
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2008 - BMW X5 L 2996 -
Valeo
2008 BMW X5 Alternator 8 Cyl 4.8L Valeo

P311-38D07E5    W0133-1791529  New

Qty:
$1,387.76
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • with 4-Zone Climate Control : 220 Amp - Remanufactured
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Valeo
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2008 - BMW X5 V 4837 -
Valeo
2010 BMW X5 Alternator Valeo

P311-38D07E5    W0133-1791529  New

Qty:
$1,387.76
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • with 4-Zone Climate Control : 220 Amp - Remanufactured
Brand: Valeo
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2010 - BMW X5 N62B48B
Valeo
2008 BMW X5 Alternator 8 Cyl 4.8L Valeo

P311-4BF9E7C    W0133-1791530  New

Qty:
$1,044.62
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • w/o 4-Zone Climate Control : 180 Amp - Remanufactured
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Valeo
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2008 - BMW X5 V 4837 -
Valeo
2008 BMW X6 Alternator 6 Cyl 3.0L Valeo

P311-3B870A4    W0133-1922674  New

Qty:
$802.29
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
Brand: Valeo
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2008 - BMW X6 L 2979 -
Valeo
2012 BMW 740Li Alternator Valeo

P311-3B870A4    W0133-1922674  New

Qty:
$802.29
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • 230 Amp., Reman.
Brand: Valeo
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - BMW 740Li
Valeo
2010 BMW 760Li Alternator Valeo

P311-51DCFB6    W0133-1890529  New

Qty:
$1,542.39
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
Brand: Valeo
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - BMW 760Li
Valeo
2013 BMW 760Li Alternator Valeo

P311-51DCFB6    W0133-1890529  New

Qty:
$1,542.39
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • 230 Amp.
Brand: Valeo
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - BMW 760Li
Valeo
2009 BMW 335d Alternator Valeo

P311-215FF06    W0133-1847844  New

Qty:
$810.29
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • 170 Amp
Brand: Valeo
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - BMW 335d
Valeo
2009 BMW 335d Alternator Valeo

P311-215FF06    W0133-1847844  New

Qty:
$622.10
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • 170 Amp
Brand: Valeo
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - BMW 335d
Valeo
2011 BMW X5 Alternator Valeo

P311-56BDAB0    W0133-1847845  New

Qty:
$959.70
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • with 4-Zone Auto Climate Control (S4NBA) : 220 Amp
Brand: Valeo
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
2011 - BMW X5 DIESEL
Valeo
2011 BMW X5 Alternator Valeo

P311-56BDAB0    W0133-1847845  New

Qty:
$824.67
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • with 4-Zone Auto Climate Control (S4NBA) : 220 Amp
Brand: Valeo
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
2011 - BMW X5 DIESEL

Latest Bmw Repair and Alternator Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

BMW 325i died in traffic, wouldn't start again

Showing 4 out of 5 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From poppy2 on BMW 325i died in traffic, wouldn't start again

Hi,

I am trying to figure out what is going on w/ my car. 2003 BMW 325i. It just died in traffic yesterday with zero warning. I just had the alternator replaced 3 weeks ago. When I tried to restart, there was NO response at all. Didn't turn over, no clicks nothing - just dead. I had it towed to a repair shop, now today I am told it is starting (and re-starting) fine.

What could possibly cause this problem? My two ideas are, bad replacement alternator (it was used)... or dirty fuel filter (but that wouldn't explain NO response when trying to start - I figure if it was a dirty fuel filter, then at least it would attempt to turn over?)

Or something else altogher - a bad fuse? Bad wiring?

I am happy that's it working now, but makes me nervous for the future.

HELP!

Response From chickenhouse Top Rated Answer

Well, you could take the alt. off and have it tested just to make sure it's ok, some parts houses check these for free. Could also check battery cables to make sure they are clean and also the ground connections. A place to start.

Response From poppy2

Hi chickenhouse,

Thanks for the response. Will do as you suggest.

I have a question... does the battery need to be working WHILE the car is already running? Just trying to understand why a car would die out of the blue for no apparent reason. Like, if the battery is bad or if the cable connection is corroded, could that actually cause a car to stop dead in it's tracks??? (even if it was running fine JUST before that?)

Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

The car needs voltage to run. It can get that from either the alternator or the battery but if the alternator fails while your driving it, the battery will eventually follow and the car will die.

Response From chickenhouse

Some of the older cars, a battery cable could be taken off while the engine was running, but I don't think I'd try that on a beemer. They have different ideas concerning wiring.

99 BMW 323i losing power to engine

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From thereign83 on 99 BMW 323i losing power to engine

I need help because I cannot figure out whats going on with my BMW. I have a 1999 BMW 323i four door sedan that is losing power to the engine, when I first crank up my car it works perfectly fine, when I crank it up for a second time in a short time span it cranks up then loses power as soon as I either step on the brake or decelerate, if I crank it up for a third time in a short time span it won't crank up at all, it just rolls over. When I let it sit for a couple hours afterwards it cranks up fine with no issues. I have a new batter and I've also have a new alternator, so the vehicle is getting power just fine, engine just dies.

If anyone has any ideas as to why the engine would lose power when cranking it up multiple times in a short time span please share. Is it an electronic issue with a relay? Or is it possibly the starter going bad?

Response From nickwarner

If the starter was bad it wouldn't turn over. It seems like your engine is turning over at the proper speed but not able to stay running. You should have trouble codes stored in the ECM. Get them scanned and post the exact code numbers here.

Check fuel pressure, it sounds like you may have a fuel starvation issue. When was the last time you changed the filter?

Response From thereign83 Top Rated Answer

I haven't changed my gas filter since I've had my car, It also might be the fuel pump relay.

Response From nickwarner

You need to verify fuel pressure first. if you suspect a relay you would need to backprobe it while running to see if it is cutting out and allowing a pressure drop.

If you have never changed the fuel filter, do it now. I change mine once a year.

1988 BMW 735A solenoid, starter, or alternator???

Showing 3 out of 9 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From DMMcCloskey on 1988 BMW 735A solenoid, starter, or alternator???

Car is a 1988 BMW 735A...
When driving for short distances if the car starts and you turn off the key it usually will not restart. There is no clicking that I can hear. Battery is new. Have taken it to mechanic and he just said he couldn't get it to not start...

Also if you are trying to start it and you don't get the engine to turn over and start and you turn the key back to the off position it will not start then. You can come back later (hours) and it will start then no problem.

Where to start. I would rather not take the starter out to take it to get tested if at all possible. Once it has decided to not start that is it until you give it hours to do whatever it is doing and then voila just like that no problem starts right up.

As long as you drive long distances or don't turn off the engine for more than a few seconds it will start right back up. This morning again my husband had to take our minivan to work, leaving me stranded with 5 kids to get to school and no car or buses.... Help a girl out would you... Thanks all

Response From Hammer Time

It could be any number of things but it has to be tested while the failure is present.

Response From DMMcCloskey

When we tried to do this it started right back up. The poor mechanic tried all day to turn it off and on move it around. Let it run... Nothing.

So how to test, how at home I guess is the question. I am a daughter of mechanic so with the right guidance I can find my way around under the hood of the car. Where would be the best place to start testing. Plain speak... Testing for dummies I suppose.

Is there a good place to find a diagram of this, I don't have a manual such as Chilton, etc. The car is new to us, borrowing from brother. He lives too far away to help as does my dad. I really don't have the money to hire a mechanic. We just got done paying a huge towing bill for our Ford Windstar. It left us stranded many miles from home when the transmission seal blew, $440... OUCH! 5 kids and me a stay at home mom... You get the pic.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Electrical diagnostic on a BMW with no electrical knowledge? .......... I really don't think so.

Someone needs to follow a wiring diagram and test various components while it's dead.

Response From DMMcCloskey

How do you learn but to do. I need only a place to start. I have been researching and I will start without your help. I really am quite a capable person, self taught and all... I lived under a hood as a teen, but cars have changed and I always worked on american made not imports. With engine compartments big enough to climb into. I am not a painted finger nail and lip gloss kinda girl, although I've been told I clean up good once I get all the grease out from under my nails....

Response From Hammer Time

OK, so I guess you just inherited the understanding of how electrical circuits work and how to test them without feeding back a $1000 module and having to replace it.

Here, go for it

Response From DMMcCloskey

Thanks smarty pants. I was thinking more along the lines of where to start. On another post where it was a man I'm sure you started with a 1, 2, 3 etc. As in begin here, proceed to this once you have checked this.... I found the info on another website. I just have to wait for my hubby to get home to get a ride to get a voltmeter. Chauvinistic much??? My body may not be as strong as yours but my hands are much more delicately designed than yours(capable of getting into spots yours can't), and well as far as brains God made both of ours. Perhaps you should try using yours next time and be helpful with the knowledge you have....

Response From Hammer Time

OK, you want to run your mouth like a typical dumb ass so I deleted my wiring diagrams. Get your diagrams elsewhere, or better yet, try fixing it without them.

Your question is now closed.

Response From DMMcCloskey

My 8 year old saw the name of the site and thinks you should change it to JunkyCar.com... Little humor to lighten the mood Off to walk them to school. Hope someone can help. Just tried to start again. It has been almost 2 hours nothing. No click and all the lights are lit, not even dim.

1988 BMW 735i Stutters, dies, currently stranded!

Showing 4 out of 7 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 1988 BMW 735i Stutters, dies, currently stranded!

1988
BMW
735i

My GF called me on her way home from work. Car was running rough at a red light, battery light on the dash lit up, headlights and interior lights starting to go dim. I told her to make it through the intersection and pull over. Then the car died. She got it started a couple more times but it would stutter and die after a few minutes.

I went to meet her, used a jumper pack to get it started, held the engine at 3500 trying to get the charging system going, but after a few minutes I let it go back to idle and it stuttered and died again. I had to push it to the nearest sidestreet and abandon it for the night.

Bad battery or alternator? Battery was strong enough to start the car 2 or 3 times before getting completely drained so I'm not sure it's the battery. Seems more like the alternator since it started to lose power while driving. Just here for advice because I can't afford to throw parts at it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: It would run rough and then die out as voltage drops off.

Make sure there's a belt in place and tight enough first and continue on checking battery and alternator. Best to charge battery with charger for testing - not just a jump and see what the car can do as when battery is weak enough, alternators won't charge well or at all OR work so hard they burn up trying.

Basics: Battery over 4 years old - toss it now, charge the new one too first! Then test alternator would be a good choice of attack.

If belt is found missing or too loose you just have to find out why, repair + replace what's needed but again charge that battery separately,

T

Response From Guest

Okay I will start with checking the belt tension and ask her how old the battery is. Tricky part is that the car is still ten miles away, hoping I can come across a fix long enough to get it home instead of paying tow truck fees plus repairs.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

10 miles is a tough call if you go there and leave a vehicle on it while jumped to charge up the BMW but take breaks doing that so you don't burn out donor car too. 10 min a few times might buy you a fair charge on Beamer.

Consider getting a portable jumper box - $80ish for a fair powered one and those are safer PLUS most come with 12v cig lighter ports and you could just "port to port" back power the dead car once running for some extra time. Soon as engine breaks up get right to a safe spot as it's almost dead again.

You could use those portable jumperboxs for a slow battery charger once at a home and keep that hooked up while it's attached to a battery and both get charged - take a whole day though.

I kinda think the BMW isn't charging and battery has some capacity left but know that just running the car using no extras won't give you much run time. Do this when lights aren't needed of course if you do try.

Note: Batteries are marked with a read date or a code to the month/year they were made. I think this one may be coded if thru BMW but you can look for embossed letters and #s which date it. I think some BMWs put batteries under back seat?? Not certain but a maybe and a specific battery that can hook up to vent OUTSIDE cabin is a must if so.

Good luck,

T

Response From Guest

Yeah I have one of those portable jumper boxes that's what I used last night to get the car running again. With that box fully charged it only seems to jump a car once or twice so it would be hard to make it home using that.

I really wouldn't mind buying a battery and going over there and installing it I just felt more like it was the alternator because of the way that it died. A battery is $100+ I don't want to buy it if that's not the problem. Maybe I will give in and call a tow truck to at least get it back home.

Response From Guest

Forgot to mention yes you are right the battery is under the back seat on this car.

Right now I'm thinking either...

A) Buy a new battery, install it where the car is now, and hope that it works or...
B) Call a tow truck, get it home, and worry about fixing it later.

Should I try a new battery or is it a waste of money without knowing if the charging system is working?

Either way I just want to get the car out of there soon, I don't want somebody in the neighborhood reporting the car and getting it towed since it's sitting there dead and doesn't belong there.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Chances are since it acted up while it was running the problem lurks and the battery in it is run down now. Whether it will take and hold a good charge now remains to be determined. If you brought a voltmeter and jumped it on location it would read something informative. As said it's really hard to tell when a battery good or not is drained what is going on till you have it known fully charged for testing.

Getting a new battery isn't really a waste if it's older now but may not be the problem. A new fully charged battery probably would go the 10 mile run you need without help from the charging system still an unknown till you check it.

Remember - a new battery isn't necessarily fully charged when you get it! I know most jumper packs you describe are not as powerful as the car's battery. They need to be portable so the more they weigh the more powerful but harder to carry about - a trade off with those. Those come with a charger that you plug in a household outlet and if left on a battery in jump mode with it plugged into the "house" current and charging they both should charge up - slow, slow, slow but would charge both up.

Doesn't sound like you are ready with equipment to do test at location so towing the car to where you can work on it and test things out is probably your only choice. If you don't have the tools and equipment to diagnose, and possibly replace alternator, belt or pulley that may have cause a belt failure or whatever is wrong you should tow it to a shop that can or you may just end up towing it twice.......

T

Car screeching at startup

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From nycgal on Car screeching at startup

I have a 2006 BMW 325i - over the past month the car has begun to screech/squeal for the first 3-5 minutes after start up. The screeching is worse with acceleration and making turns. It only occurs for the first few minutes of the FIRST drive of the day - subsequent driving for the day does not have screeching - the noise only occurs when the car has been sitting around overnight or longer. Any thoughts?
Thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'd check the tension of the belt. If it is loose and the squeel was it slipping you might consider a new one as it could have some damage,

T

Response From nycgal Top Rated Answer

which belt? the fan belt? alternator belt? the power steering belt? thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You would call it a fan belt but the car probably has electric fans. Most belts are serpentine and self adjusted by a spring loaded tensioner pulley. Again most cars use just one belt but I can't be sure of all cars out there. A quick look will tell and with engine off and cool, you can just feel that the belt isn't tight enough if so,

T