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Best Selling Genuine Toyota Air Flow Meters

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Fuel Injection Corp.
1985 Toyota 4Runner Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter Fuel Injection Corp.

P311-4D765EA    W0133-1741259  New

Qty:
$60.00 396.35
Fuel Injection Corp. Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • Remanufactured
  • ; Production: 08/01/1984-
Brand: Fuel Injection Corp.
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Prod. Date Range
1985 - Toyota 4Runner Naturally Aspirated Fr:08-01-84
Fuel Injection Corp.
1986 Toyota Pickup Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter Fuel Injection Corp.

P311-4D765EA    W0133-1741259  New

Qty:
$60.00 396.35
Fuel Injection Corp. Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Fuel Injection Corp.
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Fuel Type Fuel Delivery Type
1986 - Toyota Pickup Naturally Aspirated GAS FI
Fuel Injection Corp.
1988 Toyota Pickup Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter 4 Cyl 2.4L Fuel Injection Corp.

P311-4D765EA    W0133-1741259  New

Qty:
$60.00 396.35
Fuel Injection Corp. Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • Remanufactured
  • ; Production: -07/31/1988
Brand: Fuel Injection Corp.
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Fuel Delivery Type Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1988 - Toyota Pickup Naturally Aspirated FI L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2366 To:07-31-88
Fuel Injection Corp.
1984 Toyota Pickup Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter Fuel Injection Corp.

P311-4D765EA    W0133-1741259  New

Qty:
$60.00 396.35
Fuel Injection Corp. Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • Remanufactured
  • ; Production: 08/01/1983-
Brand: Fuel Injection Corp.
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Fuel Delivery Type Prod. Date Range
1984 - Toyota Pickup GAS FI Fr:08-01-83
Fuel Injection Corp.
1991 Toyota Previa Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter Fuel Injection Corp.

P311-3785EAD    W0133-1750721  New

Qty:
$60.00 394.13
Fuel Injection Corp. Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • Remanufactured
  • ; Production: 01/01/1990-
Brand: Fuel Injection Corp.
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1991 - Toyota Previa Fr:01-01-90
Fuel Injection Corp.
1994 Toyota Previa Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter Fuel Injection Corp.

P311-3785EAD    W0133-1750721  New

Qty:
$60.00 394.13
Fuel Injection Corp. Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • Remanufactured
Brand: Fuel Injection Corp.
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
1994 - Toyota Previa Naturally Aspirated
Genuine
2000 Toyota Tacoma Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter 6 Cyl 3.4L Genuine

P311-5B0DC8F    W0133-1738274  New

Qty:
1,370.56
Genuine Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Toyota Tacoma V 6 Cyl 3.4L - 3378
Genuine
1997 Toyota Previa Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter Genuine

P311-5B0DC8F    W0133-1738274  New

Qty:
1,370.56
Genuine Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • ; Production: -06/30/1997
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1997 - Toyota Previa To:06-30-97
Genuine
1996 Toyota Previa Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter Genuine

P311-5B0DC8F    W0133-1738274  New

Qty:
1,370.56
Genuine Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • ; Production: 08/1995-
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Manuf. Body Code Prod. Date Range
1996 - Toyota Previa AWD TCR2 Fr:08-00-95
Genuine
1997 Toyota Tacoma Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter 6 Cyl 3.4L Genuine

P311-5B0DC8F    W0133-1738274  New

Qty:
1,370.56
Genuine Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • ; with Housing
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Toyota Tacoma V 6 Cyl 3.4L - 3378
Genuine
1994 Toyota Camry Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter 6 Cyl 3.0L Genuine

P311-5B0DC8F    W0133-1738274  New

Qty:
1,370.56
Genuine Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • ; Production: 08/01/1994-, with Housing
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1994 - Toyota Camry LE V 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2995 Fr:08-01-94
Genuine
1996 Toyota Camry Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter 6 Cyl 3.0L Genuine

P311-5B0DC8F    W0133-1738274  New

Qty:
1,370.56
Genuine Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • ; Production: -07/31/1996, JAPAN MADE MODELS

    with Housing
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1996 - Toyota Camry V 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2995 To:07-31-96
Genuine
1996 Toyota 4Runner Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter 6 Cyl 3.4L Genuine

P311-5B0DC8F    W0133-1738274  New

Qty:
1,370.56
Genuine Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • ; Production: 11/01/1995-, with Housing
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1996 - Toyota 4Runner V 6 Cyl 3.4L - 3378 Fr:11-01-95
Genuine
1998 Toyota 4Runner Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter 6 Cyl 3.4L Genuine

P311-5B0DC8F    W0133-1738274  New

Qty:
1,370.56
Genuine Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • ; Production: -06/30/1998, with Housing
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1998 - Toyota 4Runner V 6 Cyl 3.4L - 3378 To:06-30-98
Hitachi
1994 Toyota T100 Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter 4 Cyl 2.7L Hitachi

P311-01236AC    W0133-1753934  New

Qty:
391.73
Hitachi Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • ; Production: 10/01/1993-, with Housing
Brand: Hitachi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1994 - Toyota T100 L 4 Cyl 2.7L - 2694 Fr:10-01-93
Hitachi
1996 Toyota T100 Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter 4 Cyl 2.7L Hitachi

P311-01236AC    W0133-1753934  New

Qty:
391.73
Hitachi Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • ; with Housing
Brand: Hitachi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Toyota T100 L 4 Cyl 2.7L - 2694
Hitachi
1997 Toyota T100 Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter 4 Cyl 2.7L Hitachi

P311-01236AC    W0133-1753934  New

Qty:
391.73
Hitachi Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • ; Production: -07/31/1997, with Housing
Brand: Hitachi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1997 - Toyota T100 L 4 Cyl 2.7L - 2694 To:07-31-97
Hitachi
1996 Toyota 4Runner Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter 4 Cyl 2.7L Hitachi

P311-01236AC    W0133-1753934  New

Qty:
391.73
Hitachi Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • ; Production: 11/01/1995-07/31/1996, with Housing
Brand: Hitachi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1996 - Toyota 4Runner L 4 Cyl 2.7L - 2694 Fr:11-01-95 To:07-31-96
Hitachi
1995 Toyota Tacoma Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter 4 Cyl 2.7L Hitachi

P311-01236AC    W0133-1753934  New

Qty:
391.73
Hitachi Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • ; Production: 01/01/1995-, with Housing
Brand: Hitachi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1995 - Toyota Tacoma 4WD L 4 Cyl 2.7L - 2694 Fr:01-01-95
Hitachi
1997 Toyota Tacoma Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter 4 Cyl 2.4L Hitachi

P311-01236AC    W0133-1753934  New

Qty:
391.73
Hitachi Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 100% New
  • ; Production: -05/31/1997, with Housing
Brand: Hitachi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1997 - Toyota Tacoma L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2438 To:05-31-97

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1994 toyota 4 runner V-6 need idling issues

Showing 3 out of 9 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From amkha69 on 1994 toyota 4 runner V-6 need idling issues

I my name is Dee, I am new to this forum but needs some serious advice on my issues with my idle, I have very little experience with cars but do have enough common sense to handle a small task.


RE: 1994 Toyota 4 runner V6 3.0, miles 244k,

Car drives fine after a while of driving when it's idling engine will hesitate then idle gets rougher, Then eventually it will shut itself off. I have change the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, fix a leak in vacuum hose, replace fuel filter. It shows a little improvement it still idles rough and shut itself off. spark plugs gap is correct, cylinder fire order is correct, Seems like all vacuum hose is in tact. Is there something else I am missing here, I have heard of EGR valve not really sure what that does, Ignition coil etc. Is there something else that I should replace. I see on the on top of cylinder block there is a loose wire plug, is that suppose to plug into something. I have a picture of it where the arrow points!!

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!

Response From Discretesignals

Does it start right back up after it stalls? Is the check engine light on?

Is the connector connected to a harness? Looks like it is cut.

Response From amkha69

Yes, it does start back up but I have to gas it for it to stay on, if i let go it will shut off. If the engine cools off for a while it idles fine for a short time.,the wires is not connected to a harness, looks like it suppose to connect to something. You know anything about idle or ignition timing.

Thanks for the reply!

Response From Discretesignals

What color are the wires on the connector? Is the check engine light on?

Check the air duct between the air flow meter and the throttle body. Make sure it doesn't have any rips allowing air to bypass the air flow meter.

Response From amkha69

Yes the engine light is on, the connector is black , looks like a copper male connector, is it suppose to ground to something. I have a attach a better picture. I have not check the air flow meter as of yet! how do I check that?

Thanks for the reply !

Response From Discretesignals

Ok...that connector is an engine ground. The other half of the connector should be coming off the firewall.

Since the check engine light is on, there are code(s) stored in the ECU. To retrieve the codes you need to find the diagnostic connector under the hood. Flip the cap open and there is a label that corresponds to the terminals in the connector. You want to take a piece of wire or paper clip and jump TE1 to E1. Turn on the ignition and the check engine light will flash the codes. Write down the numbers and let us know.



There is a rubber engine air inlet ducting that connects from the throttle body on the engine to the air flow meter on the air cleaner box. Make sure that ducting isn't ripped, damaged, or loose on the ends.

Response From amkha69

Hi, I did check the duct where you pointed out it seems fine, no rips or sign of damage unless there like a pinhole size I would not know how to point that out. Anyways I did check out the error code it came up 25 and 71. I hope that helps on pointing out where I need to be looking at. Thanks again for your help !

Dee S

P.S I am using NGK BKR5EYA spark plugs if that makes a difference in performance..

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Code 71 means the ECU detected an EGR problem. There is sensor that monitors the EGR gas temperature. When the EGR is opened by the ECU the temperature sensor sees a rise in exhaust gas temperature. If the ECU doesn't see this, it thinks there is a problem with the EGR not opening. This shouldn't cause your problem unless the EGR was staying open at idle.

Code 25 means the ECU is seeing a lean fuel condition. There is an O2 sensor in the exhaust that monitors the oxygen content in the exhaust stream. If the sensor sees high oxygen levels in the exhaust for a period of time, the ECU thinks the engine is running lean. This could cause the engine to stall because things that cause a lean condition are fuel related. You need to think of things that will cause an engine to run lean.

*Low fuel pressure
* vacuum leaks
*lower than normal voltage signal from the vane air flow meter for the actual air going into the engine.
*injector flow problem
*misfire causing the O2 sensor to sense high oxygen content
*exhaust leak before the O2 sensor
*stuck lean O2 sensor (this could cause the ECU to add more fuel to the engine making it run rich in close loop)

At the diagnostic connector you can actually monitor O2 sensor voltage using a digital volt meter. Plug the red lead of your meter into the Ox terminal and ground the meter to the negative post of the battery. When the O2 sensor is warmed up and operational it should be fluctuating between 0-1 volt. If it is less than .5 volt, that means it is seeing a lean condition. If it is over .5 volts that means it is seeing a rich condition. It fluctuates between those voltages which is normal. If it stays at below .5 volt and never goes higher than that, the engine is running lean.

Response From amkha69

I don't even know where to begin? I do appreciate you finding out what what I need to tackle to get this resolve.
I have been reading up on the EGR system , before I bypass the EGR system I would like to test the valve to see if it is functioning properly. Do you know how I can test to see if it it functioning properly. What test procedure should I take to test it out, would taking in out and inspecting it would that be easier I know that carbon tends to build up in there. You said if the EGR valve opens when idling that may cause the rough idling. How do I check if it is open?

Code 25 is a long list:
I am no mechanic and I do not have enough experience to trouble shoot this probabilities.
Vacuum leaks I can try to check out every hose, low fuel pressure ? how do I check that.
Air flow going to the engine? Misfiring would that have to do with sparks plugs, wires, cap, rotor.?
injector flow problem, I did change the fuel filter, but not the pump. Exhaust leak? Stuck lean 02 sensor, is this the computer system telling my car to behave this way?

I do appreciate your help. I will try a few more troubleshooting ? If I do not get it fix soon I may have to sell it or take it to a mechanic which I would hate to do with the the financial situation I am in. Do you have any suggestion how much this would cost me or shall I just dump this car.

Thanks

Ignition Capacitor

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From milling machine on Ignition Capacitor

Does anyone know were to get a Ignition Capacitor for a 94 Toyota truck 22-RE engine besides the dealer
they do not seem to have them anywhere even on-line

Response From Hammer Time

A capacitor is just a noise suppressor for the radio. Try a stereo installation shop.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm? CDI was once (capacitor discharge ignition) standard on some small engines in place of points or in conjunction with points. That word was loosely used for "condensers" or very loosely used for "magneto" type ignitions.

I haven't heard of such by that name for ignition since "points" were the rule to either eliminate them or enhance spark. I did take some J.C. Witless set up of a 1969 vehicle that was supposed to double fuel economy (bull crap of course) just to have it out of the way.

My guess is for this vehicle ignition doesn't use a separate item named as such but just a guess,

T

Response From Hammer Time

There is no capacitor in the ignition circuit.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes - I don't know of such a thing for this but that alone for me would be no surprise.

milling machine : What is the problem you are trying to solve? If a NO SPARK problem that would be one thing. If erratic spark or random would be other things to chase down,

T

Response From milling machine

The vehicle is running ok, I just had it on a scope ( I have a cheap analog scope I use ) all the readings seemed a little fuzzy and the only thing I found bad was the ignition capacitor or what Toyota calls a noise filter-I put it back on the scope with the filter removed and it seems to have cleared up the fuzzy type readings and actually seems to run better although it always ran good - I will try to go to some electronic store and see if I can get one although I already tried Radio Shack and they do not carry them and I cannot seem to find them on the internet

Response From Hammer Time

That's because they really aren't needed any more. AM radios are better and CBs are pretty much gone.

Response From Discretesignals

What were you using your scope to measure? You'll get noise in some of the circuits you check.

Response From milling machine

MAINLY THE MAF SENSOR-IT IS A NEW SENSOR BUT I DO NOT REMEMBER THE FUZZ OR HASH ON THE OLDER ONE

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Your checking a vane air flow meter with a scope? Which circuit of the vane air flow meter do you have your scope connected to? Are you checking at the vane air flow meter itself or at the ECU connector? How is your scope grounded? What are your scope settings?

Toyota Camry 1994- hesitation/stalling

Showing 3 out of 7 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From guapatona on Toyota Camry 1994- hesitation/stalling

Hi,

This is my first time here, so I hope someone can help me. I'm confused. I have a Toyota Camry 1994 Le 4-door sedan, with 114,170 miles on it.

I've visited my non-Toyota mechanic twice. He has a good reputation in the neighborhood for being very honest.

Back in 11/07, I had my tune up, as well as new spark plugs and timing belt replaced. All of a sudden in January, my car turned off while waiting at a stop light. It wasn't particularly hot or cold, but it was while I was out of town and had driven about 75 miles that day. It turned back on right away. It became an intermittent and entirely random problem, maybe once every couple of weeks or days. I don't drive that far usually, so my car doesn't normally get too hot and I couldn't find a particular pattern.

I barely drove it at all, but since I'm moving cross-country, I decided to get it checked out, as well as my oil change. The mechanic said this is a very common problem that the throttle is dirty, so they cleaned and lubed the assembly. The next day, it turned off again while at a stop light. I noticed that the idle dropped real low before it did so.

I brought it back. He said, it wasn't the assembly and he'd have to do testing and it wasn't going to be easy to find the problem. He couldn't replicate my problem and couldn't find anything wrong with the car, he ran all his diagnostics and drove it 5 miles without any problem. He said he "put chemicals in" to clean the fuel. I think he meant injectors (?) This was Friday. I drove my car about 5.5 miles later that night. It was super smooth (big difference in performance). Parked it. Three hours later, got in. Every time I stopped, it would hesitate. It didn't turn off but when I pressed the gas, it would hesitate.

Then I parked. When I tried to start the car, it cranked but wouldn't start. Ten minutes later it started fine and drove great.

It drove it twice today. In the morning it was fine but a little weird. The RPM almost went up to 3k just up a slight incline. While at a stop sign it seemed to idle a little loud and when it quieted down, I noticed the idle dropped very slightly. On my way home it was totally fine. Tonight, I drove it 5.5 miles, it hesitated at every stop light, even when warm (after a short jaunt on the freeway). A couple of hours later, I drove back and it didn't hesitate at all, but when I went to parallel park and was in reverse without pressing on the gas, the engine turned off. It did the same thing as yesterday and wouldn't turn on... I waited a few minutes, it turned on long enough for me to finish the parallel park and it turned off again.

What is going on? I'm so confused. I'm gonna take it back Monday to the mechanic but can't find any other posting with a story similar to mine...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Guess: Since injector cleaner in the gas seemed to make a difference that may be the problem area. solvent for the tank is better at prevention than a fix so perhaps having the professionally cleaned out would solve this. May have a bad one, can't say on that,

T

Response From guapatona

Hi,

That's what I was kind of thinking; maybe they are so dirty. But the problem is real odd now. I don't know why it got worse. Someone suggested that it might be the air flow meter in the air cleaner... would that be affected by fuel cleaning this much?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I worry about the gas we're buying today more than ever. There's tons of incentive to use additives and non fossile fuels to cut the price down, emissions down or whatever. I have clearly noted it doesn't "keep" well for off season storage too.

As a result - I'm suggesting more fuel filter changes, use of solvents periodically just for prevention which seems to have worked in the fleet around me.

It did catch my attention that you notice an improvement for a while! That suggests something about the additive used helped. There are no magic things that just make an engine run better than intended that I know of so you may have gotten used to some diminished performance and the fix for this should only make it more efficient for the long run.

You mentioned you were happy with your mechanic which is great and are going back. Do bring up that you noted the improvement and see what he/she suggests from there. Good luck,

T

Response From guapatona

I read elsewhere that adding additive is a waste of money... ?? Sigh. I don't know. Thank you for your help!

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

I just reading your post and you mentioned the air flow meter which I have ran into such cases where it had a lot to do with the idle problems...maybe the problem lies there...but only a advance diagnostic test would tell...just a thought.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Note on store bought additives: Some are useful, most are a waste IMO. I will use by brand "Chevron's Techron" fuel system cleaner and really believe it has helped. Not a bottle per tankful like they want you to do but half of one now and then.

The ones that claim wild power increases, and oil additives that make your engine last forever are a waste.

I do use fuel stabilizer for long term storage in like seasonal equipment which has helped.

There's no real quick fix junk to solve neglect or most of the claims of the junk I see out there,

T

'93 Toyota pickup Engine won't start

Showing 2 out of 16 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From Troubleshooter on '93 Toyota pickup Engine won't start

'93 Toyota pickup
2.4 ltr/ 4 cyl
22re
260,000 mi

Engine had some knock, so this novice decided to get greesy. After inspect rocker assembly (removed and did lateral test) found no issue. While valve cover off, playfully sought how much the oil would spurt if engine were cranked. After putting everything back together engine won't start. It had a noxious chemical smell (petro?) when it was cranked after the valve cover and everything back on. Waited to see if gas/oil mixed and needed to settle. Still no start. Starter itself cranks, just not engine. What to do?

Response From Discretesignals

Was it running before you took it apart?

Response From Troubleshooter

Oh yes, sorry! It was. It had rough idle, and a knock that was much quieter like a grass-sprinkler in the distance, then while hauling a load the knock got very loud. Sounds like when you-tube videos diagnosis for engine knock- with the source being found to be a cylinder rod, diagnosed by removing plugs one at a time. There's a couple things to assess for the knock itself, but yes it was running until I removed the valve cover and inspected the rockers. Everything (rocker assembly, cover) is bolted back down not to specs but to tension just enough to get the engine running and diagnose possible cyclinder rod damage. Cover gasket is not installed, but all hoses are. Is the gasket alone enough to cause compression issue-therefore engine won't start? Seems something else.

Response From Troubleshooter

Also, there was a short. The cab would get power (lights, radio, etc), until the ignition was turned. Then it would lose power. I'd wiggle the positive battery terminal, cab would get power then lose it. I tightened thoroughly the attached relays on top of valve cover in case that affected the system (?), then tightened positive terminal. It doesn't clamp all the way shut on the terminal, but it tightened as much as it could, with only a slight but possible wiggle on the terminal. The engine now cranks, but doesn't start. It does hold the power now (cab lights, radio).

Thankyou!

Response From Troubleshooter

(* noid light, pressure guage, spark tester all cost money, so hopefully it is a quick fix instead)

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Do you have spark?

The vane air flow meter is plugged in and the ducting is installed?

Response From Troubleshooter

Will check. Now have antifreeze in the crank.

Response From Discretesignals

You have coolant in the crankcase?

Response From Troubleshooter

Aye. The initial engine knock was while hauling a series of heavy loads. I drove my truck for another 3 mi with the knock. Could their be a crack due to that? Or could compression loss due to turning on the engine while valve cover was off have just caused a weird mixture scenario?

Response From Hammer Time

Sounds like the timing chain went through the timing cover.

Response From Troubleshooter

Well, I'm no expert. The chain looks alright from above (valve cover removed). Maybe the Chilton manual will show me what I need to look at re: chain cover. If it is cracked does this mean that I may as well get a whole new engine or buy a rebuilt engine?

Response From Hammer Time

When the chain stretches it slaps against the inside of the timing cover and wears right through the timing cover into the water jacket. It rattles for a long time before it goes through.

Response From Troubleshooter

Just heard a video. The knock on my truck sounded like rod knock. That is after hauling the loads, the sound became loud like metal against metal, just like a rod knock sound. Before it sounded like a sprinkler in the distance, so maybe was also a timing chain. Thankyou Hammertime and Discretesignals.

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, if it started out as a timing chain problem and leaked coolant into the oil, that would develop into a rod knock eventually. Is the oil all creamy?

Response From Troubleshooter

I've decided to swap out the motor with a remanufacture. Hoisting with tree limb. At 260,000 mi it has had its good times.

Now for NEW LIFE.



Thankyou for your informed opinions, carried me further along the road -- !

:)

Response From Hammer Time

That's probably a good decision.

Closing this question now as solved to keep spammers out.

Contact any Mod if you need it reopened.

1993 toyota 4 runner v6

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Question From drose91865 on 1993 toyota 4 runner v6

I've been having trouble with my 93 4 runner, SE V6, automatic trans, it has 218,000+ on the odometer so I know it's tired.
Most of the time it runs fine but lately I have been losing power and it misses really bad with a warm or hot engine. Sometimes I have zero throttle response and then all of a sudden it catches and blasts off!!
I took out the thermostat in the summer due to some overheating issues/fixed some leaks and replaced radiator but did not put thermostat back in, I was thinking transmission because when it first started the missing and power loss was when it was cold and once the motor warmed it ran fine but then it started doing it all the time, more so when warmed up then when cold.
Like I said I can leave my house after not letting it warm up at all and it will drive fine and then go to pull away from a stoplight and it almost won't run and then at the next light it's fine again.
Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks in advance, Danny Rose

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Put the thermostat back in as all you have accomplished is making water/coolant flow too fast at water pump and overheating away from it confusing the whole engine and high risk of damage. Taking it out may make the gauge happy but not the engine!

T

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I have a 92 Toyota pickup with the 3.slow in it.

First thing you can try is seeing if there are any trouble codes in the ECU. There is a diagnosic connector under the hood. If you flip the cap there are a bunch of terminals. Underneath the cap is the label for the terminals in the connector. Take a jumper wire and jump TE1 to E1 and turn the ignition on. The check engine light will flash two digit trouble codes if there are any being stored.

Some other things that you can check are the vane air flow meter and the TPS. A lot of times the resistor card inside the vane air flow meter gets worn out inside and the vane wiper will hit a dead spot causing the computer to lean out the fuel going to the engine. You can check the vane air flow sensor with an ohm meter. The TPS works about the same as a vane sensor and can be checked with a ohm or volt meter also. The TPS is hard to get to, so it's better to make your checks at the ECU connector.

Response From drose91865

I put in the new TPS and now it bucks/revs up and down when the throttle is pressed...It seemed to run fine while the TPS was unplugged other then me having to manually shift gears...That thing is a bitch to get to.
What to do next?
I also put a new mass air flow sensor in when I got it in January of this year.

Response From Discretesignals

Did you check for any stored codes in the ECU? You may have a TPS code in memory since you had disconnected it. You may have to clear codes by disconnecting the battery and then recheck for any possible codes.

When you slap on a new TPS you have to make sure that it is adjusted correctly by using an ohm meter. The ECU doesn't have the capability of auto zeroing the sensor.

1. Loosen the two set screws that secure the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) to the throttle housing. (DO NOT REMOVE THE SCREWS).
2. Disconnect the connector to the TPS and connect an Ohmmeter to terminals IDL and E2.
3. Insert a 0.62mm (0.024in.) feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and stop lever.
4. Rotate the TPS counter-clockwise and slowly back clockwise until the Ohmmeter just looses continuity, (infinite ohms).
5. Secure the TPS with the two set screws.
6. Remove the feeler gauge and recheck TPS setting. ^ There should be continuity with a 0.50mm (0.020in.) feeler gauge inserted in the stop.
^ There should be NO continuity with a 0.77mm (0.030in.) feeler gauge inserted in the stop.
7. Remove the Ohmmeter and reconnect the TPS connector.

Response From drose91865

Thanks Discrete. I haven't check the codes yet. I'll work on it again this weekend.
Thank you again for all your help!!

Response From drose91865

Thank you Discrete!!

Response From drose91865

Thank you Tom!!