Shop Discount Air Flow Meters

A capacitor is just a noise suppressor for the radio. Try a stereo installation shop.

Hmmm? CDI was once (capacitor discharge ignition) standard on some small engines in place of points or in conjunction with points. That word was loosely used for "condensers" or very loosely used for "magneto" type ignitions.

I haven't heard of such by that name for ignition since "points" were the rule to either eliminate them or enhance spark. I did take some J.C. Witless set up of a 1969 vehicle that was supposed to double fuel economy (bull crap of course) just to have it out of the way.

My guess is for this vehicle ignition doesn't use a separate item named as such but just a guess,

T

There is no capacitor in the ignition circuit.

Yes - I don't know of such a thing for this but that alone for me would be no surprise.

milling machine : What is the problem you are trying to solve? If a NO SPARK problem that would be one thing. If erratic spark or random would be other things to chase down,

T

The vehicle is running ok, I just had it on a scope ( I have a cheap analog scope I use ) all the readings seemed a little fuzzy and the only thing I found bad was the ignition capacitor or what Toyota calls a noise filter-I put it back on the scope with the filter removed and it seems to have cleared up the fuzzy type readings and actually seems to run better although it always ran good - I will try to go to some electronic store and see if I can get one although I already tried Radio Shack and they do not carry them and I cannot seem to find them on the internet

That's because they really aren't needed any more. AM radios are better and CBs are pretty much gone.

What were you using your scope to measure? You'll get noise in some of the circuits you check.

MAINLY THE MAF SENSOR-IT IS A NEW SENSOR BUT I DO NOT REMEMBER THE FUZZ OR HASH ON THE OLDER ONE

Does it start right back up after it stalls? Is the check engine light on?

Is the connector connected to a harness? Looks like it is cut.

Yes, it does start back up but I have to gas it for it to stay on, if i let go it will shut off. If the engine cools off for a while it idles fine for a short time.,the wires is not connected to a harness, looks like it suppose to connect to something. You know anything about idle or ignition timing.

Thanks for the reply!

Yes the engine light is on, the connector is black , looks like a copper male connector, is it suppose to ground to something. I have a attach a better picture. I have not check the air flow meter as of yet! how do I check that?

Thanks for the reply !

Ok...that connector is an engine ground. The other half of the connector should be coming off the firewall.

Since the check engine light is on, there are code(s) stored in the ECU. To retrieve the codes you need to find the diagnostic connector under the hood. Flip the cap open and there is a label that corresponds to the terminals in the connector. You want to take a piece of wire or paper clip and jump TE1 to E1. Turn on the ignition and the check engine light will flash the codes. Write down the numbers and let us know.



There is a rubber engine air inlet ducting that connects from the throttle body on the engine to the air flow meter on the air cleaner box. Make sure that ducting isn't ripped, damaged, or loose on the ends.

Hi, I did check the duct where you pointed out it seems fine, no rips or sign of damage unless there like a pinhole size I would not know how to point that out. Anyways I did check out the error code it came up 25 and 71. I hope that helps on pointing out where I need to be looking at. Thanks again for your help !

Dee S

P.S I am using NGK BKR5EYA spark plugs if that makes a difference in performance..

Code 71 means the ECU detected an EGR problem. There is sensor that monitors the EGR gas temperature. When the EGR is opened by the ECU the temperature sensor sees a rise in exhaust gas temperature. If the ECU doesn't see this, it thinks there is a problem with the EGR not opening. This shouldn't cause your problem unless the EGR was staying open at idle.

Code 25 means the ECU is seeing a lean fuel condition. There is an O2 sensor in the exhaust that monitors the oxygen content in the exhaust stream. If the sensor sees high oxygen levels in the exhaust for a period of time, the ECU thinks the engine is running lean. This could cause the engine to stall because things that cause a lean condition are fuel related. You need to think of things that will cause an engine to run lean.

*Low fuel pressure
* vacuum leaks
*lower than normal voltage signal from the vane air flow meter for the actual air going into the engine.
*injector flow problem
*misfire causing the O2 sensor to sense high oxygen content
*exhaust leak before the O2 sensor
*stuck lean O2 sensor (this could cause the ECU to add more fuel to the engine making it run rich in close loop)

At the diagnostic connector you can actually monitor O2 sensor voltage using a digital volt meter. Plug the red lead of your meter into the Ox terminal and ground the meter to the negative post of the battery. When the O2 sensor is warmed up and operational it should be fluctuating between 0-1 volt. If it is less than .5 volt, that means it is seeing a lean condition. If it is over .5 volts that means it is seeing a rich condition. It fluctuates between those voltages which is normal. If it stays at below .5 volt and never goes higher than that, the engine is running lean.

I don't even know where to begin? I do appreciate you finding out what what I need to tackle to get this resolve.
I have been reading up on the EGR system , before I bypass the EGR system I would like to test the valve to see if it is functioning properly. Do you know how I can test to see if it it functioning properly. What test procedure should I take to test it out, would taking in out and inspecting it would that be easier I know that carbon tends to build up in there. You said if the EGR valve opens when idling that may cause the rough idling. How do I check if it is open?

Code 25 is a long list:
I am no mechanic and I do not have enough experience to trouble shoot this probabilities.
Vacuum leaks I can try to check out every hose, low fuel pressure ? how do I check that.
Air flow going to the engine? Misfiring would that have to do with sparks plugs, wires, cap, rotor.?
injector flow problem, I did change the fuel filter, but not the pump. Exhaust leak? Stuck lean 02 sensor, is this the computer system telling my car to behave this way?

I do appreciate your help. I will try a few more troubleshooting ? If I do not get it fix soon I may have to sell it or take it to a mechanic which I would hate to do with the the financial situation I am in. Do you have any suggestion how much this would cost me or shall I just dump this car.

Thanks

Guess: Since injector cleaner in the gas seemed to make a difference that may be the problem area. solvent for the tank is better at prevention than a fix so perhaps having the professionally cleaned out would solve this. May have a bad one, can't say on that,

T

I worry about the gas we're buying today more than ever. There's tons of incentive to use additives and non fossile fuels to cut the price down, emissions down or whatever. I have clearly noted it doesn't "keep" well for off season storage too.

As a result - I'm suggesting more fuel filter changes, use of solvents periodically just for prevention which seems to have worked in the fleet around me.

It did catch my attention that you notice an improvement for a while! That suggests something about the additive used helped. There are no magic things that just make an engine run better than intended that I know of so you may have gotten used to some diminished performance and the fix for this should only make it more efficient for the long run.

You mentioned you were happy with your mechanic which is great and are going back. Do bring up that you noted the improvement and see what he/she suggests from there. Good luck,

T

I read elsewhere that adding additive is a waste of money... ?? Sigh. I don't know. Thank you for your help!

Note on store bought additives: Some are useful, most are a waste IMO. I will use by brand "Chevron's Techron" fuel system cleaner and really believe it has helped. Not a bottle per tankful like they want you to do but half of one now and then.

The ones that claim wild power increases, and oil additives that make your engine last forever are a waste.

I do use fuel stabilizer for long term storage in like seasonal equipment which has helped.

There's no real quick fix junk to solve neglect or most of the claims of the junk I see out there,

T

First eliminate all vacuum or air leaks in the system. You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.